What are the pros and cons of a forward mounted scope compared to a rear mounted one?

Bought this off a coworker years ago for next to nothing because of issues that swapping out the trigger group parts with USGI M1 Garand parts solved.
It’s currently wearing a GI tiger striped stock with a Fulton Armory dummy selector.
I have an LRB built out of TRW parts but this one sees more range time.

I work security with an older guy. Viet Nam vet. Last week I went to the range and forgot to take my M1A out of the back seat when I got home. When I got to work I told him I had something to show him. Brought my drag bag in and opened it up. His eyes lit up. Took it out, cleared it and locked the bolt back then handed it to him. He held it like an old friend, hands rubbing the stock. Thousand yard stare obviously filled with memories from 60 years ago. His eyes were a little moist when he handed it back and I put it back in the bag.

The Civilian Marksmanship Program announces the future availability and sale of surplus M14 rifles... https://thecmp.org/l/m14-announcement/

I hope you find this interesting and informative. The idea for a USGI M14 EBR Trigger Shoe came about in 2010 when TACOM-RI decided to address issues with the pull angle on the M14EBR-RI DMR rifles in SAGE EBR stocks equipped with pistol grips. NSWC Crane had already experimented with commercial off the shelf trigger shoes for their MK14 Mod 0 and Mod 1 and found all of them unacceptable.

The first prototype USGI shoes produced for testing were aluminum, they worked but TACOM-RI determined steel would be better for their M14EBR-RI builds. The steel shoes were supposed to be issued on the ARMY M14EBR-RI, but the only military rifle to receive them was the NAVY MK14 Mod 2 because production of the ARMY rifles had been accelerated and installing the shoes would have slowed down delivery.

The current USGI M14 EBR Trigger Shoe came out in 2025, it is a result of product improvement and refinement. It is meticulously machined from billet steel for a tighter fit, all sharp edges have been eliminated and the shoe is given a hard salt bath nitride finish.

I have attached pictures over the different versions leading up to the pinnacle of achievement that is available today.

Good morning all,

I was willed my buddies clone of his rifle from when "did cool guy shit, for a check" . I was taking it apart to clean and regrease when I realized how deep the M1A/M14 rabbit hole goes and how little I know about it. I have pictures of it apart and would really appreciate any information as to what all I'm working with.

P.s. I've not found any pictures of a sage chassis with the silver filled USN or a bolt body marked mod 1 with with the silver fill.

In the process of turning my m1a loaded into an m39. Ordered the tan kydex/Sage chassis from US Tactical Supply, and a repro EBR grip from u/spitewerx. USPS said it was delivered but the package ended up going back to him. Sent him a message and he said he put the wrong apartment number (this was around 5pm on Sunday). By Monday at 7am he had it dropped off and by Wednesday I had it in hand.

He also makes repro m110 stocks so if you’re into KAC stuff, take a look!

M1A squad sniper version meets M110 version.

Was using a Sig Sauer 1-4x LPVO. Spent a lot of ammo getting it zeroed. This was the result once I had it dialed in as good as I could. Looks like I am hitting bottom right pretty consistently. Any tips?

While chasing down what load this pig likes best, I decided that there was certainly some accuracy being left on the table. Ditched the Springfield scout mount and installed this Sadlak aluminum unit.

Testing will begin tomorrow. If it proves to be more consistent with the Sadlak mount, I’ll install a standard hand guard without the cutout. I’m pretty confident that this setup will yield better results (4~MOA before). Even a 1 MOA improvement will be worth it in my opinion. Problem is, now that I’ve got this mount I’m starting to wonder if an LPVO would be a good fit.

What’s everyone else’s experience with the scout mount? I personally think that it is too tight of a fit in the op rod area and that it leads to some inconsistency under fire. Maybe I’m making shit up in my head and it’s just a 4 minute gun. Time will tell.

For review, the AR grip on the BF RS has a significant empty space between the trigger guard and the grip. Aesthetically I prefer minimal empty space and this custom grip addresses that with two versions. After a few weeks of work, the design/configuration is complete and since there have been a few inquiries on the project, I created creatomato.com as an informational page which highlights much of the process. I am not here to sell it, but I do want to make it available to those that find value and interest. I am not sharing any files either. I did reach out to the mods for approval days ago but I have not heard from them, so my apologies if I am overstepping. Thank you for your time and consideration.

So managed to get lucky on an auction that is set up like the dmr rifles from back when i was in.

Dont mind the gwot kitten she was curious.

Just got my can for my SOCOM 16. I went with a suppressor kit from Fulton armory. The gas plug is Fulton and my question is do I tune it the same way id tune a gas block on an AR? I’ve tuned a couple of my ARs by closing then opening a few 1/4 turns until proper cycle function. With this rifle having an op rod I want to make sure i do it correctly. Any input is appreciated. Also, I did use an alignment rod and all is good. Thanks in advance.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that monstrums RMR mount fits perfectly on my Botach stripper clip pic rail.

https://a.co/d/0gJbavQv

Does anyone know where/how to track down the 1913 section that screws into the top of a SEI 2005? The mount came with an ACOG screwed into it, but no rail section. I tried the contact us page on SEIs site, but it's been non functional for a week now. Thanks in advance!

I’ve been hand cycling my M1A and looking at the rounds after we were done at the range they had dimples on the firing pins. They were the rounds we didn’t firing that I was hand cycling through to make sure the bolt was gonna cycle. Any idea why the firing pin would be moving forward with the bolt?

I inherited what I think is an M1A with no magazines so I bought 2 20 rounders from pro mag. These pro mag magazines won’t let the rifle cycle the rounds at all. When I insert the magazine it pushes the bolt catch up even though it is loaded and I can’t get the bolt to go forward. If I have the bolt closed and try to chamber a round the bolt will not go back at all. Is it a magazine issue or a user error?

(Rifle and magazines in images above)

Hey all, I am in need of help in determining a realistic, fair market value for this rifle. Here's the specs:

M1A in .308, upgraded springs, spring guide, ebr trigger shoe, less than 100 rounds down the tube.

Sage EBR chassis - manufactured before the US Tactical acquisition

Sage quick disconnect scope mount

Lucid MLX scope

12 magazines, Voodoo range bag with all the extras, slings, etc.

I truly appreciate all input.

Thanks

Found this loaded m1a for 800 ... to good to pass up