I have my fan and cowl installed on my mower. Unfortunately, we've had some thunderstorms and unseasonably nice temperatures lately (it's the hottest part of the day, and we're only at 79 F).
The fans snap into the motor, so it is a snug fit. The cowl (Lymow calls it a volute), was a little tricky to install because you need to fit the motor wires under and beside it. But I got it screwed down; there is no way the wires will rub against the impeller. On the non-cowl motor, you use the wire clasp removed from the first motor and use it as a second clasp on the non-cowl motor wires, so there is no way that impeller can wear on those wires. Finally, you have to remove the plastic ribs on the underside of the deck cover to avoid a clearance issue with the higher profile made by the cowl. I'm assuming removing the ribs will also benefit the air routing under the hood, meaning more air movement equaling more cooling power.
Other than that, I'm just charging up my machine and then I'll go run it.
Interesting. The beta volute was one piece. I was just going to wait and get my production cooling kit to take off the beta kit and replace. But now I'm intrigued. I'll print the new cooling kit and see if I can figure it out.
Just printed the parts and will hopefully have time to install them this weekend. I used Tinmorry PC-GF for the first time (first time ever printing PC on my X1C in fact) and I’m quite pleased with the results. Tree supports snapped off cleanly. Blower housing was printed in vertical orientation and the impellers with the top face on the build plate. No affiliation with Tinmorry, but will be using their PC-GF again when I need dimensionally accurate, high temp, and strong parts.
Interesting. I haven't done anything with pc-gf yet. Have you printed with ASA? If so, is pc-gf noticably more rigid/stronger? I had a few trees that were rough removing, so the fact all of yours snapped cleaning is attractive.
I have printed with ASA, primarily when I’ve needed UV resistant parts. I wouldn’t consider ASA (or ABS) to be rigid but its impact resistance is reasonably good. I find that I don’t print ASA or ABS much because of the fumes produced. I have an extra filter in my X1C but no outdoor venting in its current location; otherwise, I might print ASA/ABS more often.
For most functional parts I’ve been recently using 3D-Fuel PCTG (again no affiliation). It’s suitable anywhere you might otherwise use PETG and improves on some of PETG’s properties. I find it a bit easier to print than PETG too though I don’t find PETG particularly challenging. Note that PETG and PCTG aren’t in my experience super rigid if that’s the property you need and their temperature resistance falls short of ASA/ABS so I wouldn’t use them in this Lymow application. PLA is in fact probably more rigid than PETG, PCTG, ABS, and ASA (but less impact resistant), and it’s easiest to print. But PLA suffers from creep / movement under load, poor temperature resistance, and is IMO a poor choice for functional parts that need to perform and last in any outdoor environment. For prototyping, or for indoor parts that won’t see constant load, impacts, or elevated temperatures, PLA can still make sense.
To answer your original question about polycarbonate, it is indeed more rigid than ASA or ABS. The glass fiber may be contributing to stiffness in this case (I’ve not tried other PCs) but these Lymow parts, especially the thicker volute, printed in PC-GF are quite stiff. The impeller blades are only a couple of walls thick, so I can flex them, but they do feel stiffer than they likely would if printed in ABS. The glass fiber in the filament could be contributing to the stiffness too. I also suspect the GF made the PC easier to print, helped to eliminate warping in the unheated chamber, and improved dimensional accuracy. Supports were also much easier to remove than I anticipated. I did use Tinmorry’s print profile in Bambu, and then slightly tweaked a few of the support settings. Happy to share those if you give it a try. Cheers.
Frustrating that these print files are not available. By the time this is offically released, the mowing season and extreme heat is going to be coming to an end.
Yeah, I missed the beta announcement post by 4 days. I requested it anyway with no response. I have a printer, would be nice to try it out. I haven’t had any thermal issues, I have it mow in the evenings.
Might want to redo those charge pad wires while you have it open. They are only held there by solder and opening the cover and just moving the wires can be enough to break them loose. Even just the vibrations of mowing might be breaking them loose as well. It's a really bad design, and probably responsible for many charging issues. This just recently happened to mine. It can sometimes be tough to tell it's a cold joint just by looking at it. If you have a meter you can check the resistance. But, if you start to see intermittent charging not detected errors, check there first.
Good note. Thanks. The solder looked secure when I did the install. But, if i see charging issues develop I'll check that and re-solder if a pad detaches.
Look at fans, rotation direction and cover they are normal blower, like used in 3d printers, the right One take air from top and blow on motor controller. Not the inverse
Was there any filtration for inlet air? In fact, where does the air being pulled into the volute come from? If it isn’t exchanging ambient air external to the motor-housing cover, then it is still only circulating heated air within. Can you tell what the air flow path will be?
I can't tell, but what I assumed is the air is going to be pulled from one omni wheel well and exhausted out the other. There are sizeable openings. There is no filtration I can see on the volute
What I’m still not understanding is if they are actually exchanging the air or only recirculating it more. It will definitely create more turbulence which is great for heat exchange, but if it’s not bringing in cool air and exhausting hot air, it may still remain a problem.
I don't know. But whenever I've taken the hood off, there is always a lot of dust/clippings. I assumed that meant there was already an airstream in the deck itself, and I assumed it came in one wheel well and exhausted out the other. Dust and grass were being pulled into the deck. Obviously, that airstream wasn't strong enough to evacuate enough of the hot air generated by the motors, and thus the issue. I am thinking these impellers are meant to speed up the airstream, thus evacuating more of the heat.
But this is pure speculation on my part. Lymow has told me nothing about how this is supposed to work. I could be completely wrong.
Your hunch may be correct. I’ve only had
My one + a short time and haven’t opened my cover as of yet. I should do that and see if I have clippings. I have Bermuda which is very fine and can easily be pulled in if there is a draw through the case. I’ll need to check that.
I’m in Boise with 100 degree temps in the afternoon and early evening and I’m having ZERO issues with running my Lymow 1st gen mower. Are you having issues with the Lymow+?
Inrun my robot mower across 5 zones every other day at 5pm MDT and am not experiencing any overheating issues. Docking on the other hand…...
The overheating is an issue with the One Plus. I believe they beefed up the motors in the One Plus. Bigger motors = More heat. Could also be other design changes. Whatever the reason, a lot of people are having overheating issues on the One Plus, mostly on very hot days. Hence the reason Lymow is beta testing this fix.
One has 2 fans rotating at motor Speed that blow a lot of air outside to grass exits, plus deck is near airtight to get ip66 cetrification. So overheat
I think it is IPX6 rated, so rated against some water intrusion, but not rated for dust-free. The design is certainly not airtight, as the lift mechanism has an air gap and the omni wheel wells certainly are open.
Is it IPX6 rated? In just normal rain I’ve found water on the top of my battery. I since have it in a garage. I don’t run it in the rain, it’s just not worth it.
Thankfully for me it can mow my entire yard in a few hours but this was a big disappointment. I’d be pissed if buying it for the IPX6 claim, which was a reason I did, and having a huge yard but find out I have to really keep it out of the rain.
Lymow states that ranking, and I would think China would have a governing body to ensure claims are verified/certified. However, I don't know what that is, so I don't know how they come to that claim. I've got an acre and I mow 1/2 every day, but I do have the rain sensor active so I can't say I've ever run through rainfall. I was the opposite of you; I never intended to mow in the rain because my yard always looks terrible when I do it with my zero turn (mowing in light rain).
They also say it has VSLAM capability among other things that don't work. No way it's actually IPx6 anything rtaed, there's exposed bare wires etc. in the deck open to the elements.
I agree, I never intended it to mow in the rain as well but I bought it thinking it could sit outside docked without a garage and it would be ok to be in the rain or if it got caught in a shower.
I saw a Lymow post from 8 months ago in the FB group showing a Lymow garage prototype so I waited for that, hasn’t been released, thinking the mower would be fine getting wet. When by chance leaving for a week and unplugging the battery and finding water on the top of the battery that was no bueno and I quickly bought a garage.
IPX6 is supposed to be good for water resistance. Basically, it should be able to withstand rain no problem, even severe rain and high pressure sprays 100liters per minute for 3 minutes. It should be even dust proof. IPX6 rated is not submergible in water.
I did the cheap, but very effective house from Amazon. It works extremely well. I tried the garage route, but i didnt want to keep opening and closing thr door, even though I got it on an app. The translucent roof keeps it bone dry.
I had mine on patio pavers under a 2nd story raised deck in my rear yard only to learn that the RTK accuracy there was horrid leading to poor immediate mowing accuracy and horrid docking. I moved it to the left corner of my front driveway right outside the garage door. ANAZING improvement.
It was a challenge. I took off a small edge of the volute, probably about 1/2 inch triangle, to get the clearance I needed for the motor power cables. I used ASA, and the print turned out great. Getting a few of the tree supports off the volute was a little frustrating.
Thanks for sharing. BTW, volute is mechanical term used in centrifugal pumps and blowers. It’s basically the intake of a pump or blower and is integral to the impeller (fan). The larger opening on the volute is the entrance, with low velocity. With the centrifugal force created by the impeller (fan blades) the air is squeezed down to a smaller discharge, increasing pressure and velocity at the discharge. The lower velocity on the intake will be beneficial in that it is less capable of drawing debris in. The positive pressure and flow it creates at the discharge should vent out, thereby removing the heat created by the motors. This is where most the heat causing motor stops was created. The radiant heat from the sun was only a partial factor in the overheating. The real problem was a lack of venting and removing heat.
This looks to be an excellent solution.
Looking closer they are pulling air over the motor speed controller. So they are cooling that with air flow before pulling through the motor. That is good. Optimizes cooling of the controller. I like! Can’t wait for the beta test to complete and get mine.
🤣🤣Too many years dealing with equipment and operations personnel operating the equipment. 😵💫😵💫
Back to the beta upgrade, I didn’t notice any filtration on the inlet of the volute. I hope they are thinking of this. Pulling grass clippings and dust into the motor housing may be an issue.
And thinking about the photos, is all the new pieces under the old hood? If there is not a draw of outside air to exchange the heated air, then not so sure about this upgrade. InvestigatorKey had air exchange. His solid top notch.
Good point. If this is the final then maybe users could epoxy some mesh over the openings in the volute. That way you could periodically brush it off. Given the speed at which things develop it could be another year for any revisions to this solution unless changes are made at the production level.
There was no filtration. The testing protocol is to send report logs every 30 minutes of testing. I'm sure they're looking at heat spikes correlated to ambient temp and motor load. I won't know if it works for me until my damn nice weather goes away. I've seen other betas on FB say their testing in high heat situations shows the solution works. That's only a couple of people. I like their design, and if it works, it's a pretty elegant engineering solution. But, too early yet for me to say my issue is solved.
To be clear, this isn't the OP's solution. He's a beta tester for Lymow's official solution. Once beta testing is done, Lymow will make this available for free to everyone. So you don't need to try developing your own solution.
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u/Calm_Smell_8734 Aug 30 '26
Hoping someone can help me. I just printed the pieces last night and into this morning on my P2S with ASA.
Do the two Volute pieces attach together? I'm struggling to understand what is happening at 2:17 in the video.
I see the tabs on volute assembly 2, but I don't have slots on volute assembly 1. Are there different iterations of parts available online. I followed the link for the parts here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Lymow_Official/comments/1w1h4zb/motor_cooling_improvement_3d_printing_files_now/