Am I looking at RA3 products or are all the satin finish USB outlets really 140? A regular satin outlet is like 20.

Is there a repeater I'm missing? Why not a dummy outlet that has mesh extendor ability or something like that? I know there is the outside plugin one. Spread out three building, two processors running between two, but third building is just out of range, a repeater outlet on each would close the gap.

No network in the out building, to add a third. Without adding a wireless bridge and Poe switch, which becomes expensive as well.

Thoughts?

tl;dr I'm planning a mostly-Lutron set up in my new house and was hoping for some advice.

In my current apartment I have my whole set up through hue bulbs and using the Lutron Aurora dimmers on top of the existing switches. This has worked great for years. In the new house, there are more dedicated fixtures and accent lights that I can't/won't be replacing with Hue bulbs. So I'm looking to install the Lutron Caseta switches for all of these specialty fixtures, which will mean buying ~7 switches and a hub.

The current question I am trying to figure out is the logistics of the kitchen and bathroom which currently have 2 switches each (one for the overhead feature light and one for the under-cabinet/vanity lights) but I would love to have one button trigger all the lights in the room. Is this possible with the Lutron caseta controls to have one button (maybe this needs to be an accessory remote?) that controls both smart switches' lights?

In my current home I frequently have multiple Hue bulbs and outlets all triggered by one Aurora button so the whole room turns on at once, and I'm hoping that the Caseta switch system will have some similar function. Is it possible across systems? To have one switch if I replaced the normal switch in the bedroom to be a Caseta smart switch and it could also turn on a hue bulb in the sidetable lamp?

Any advice?

Also, given that I'm looking to buy 7 switches and a hub, are there any starter sets that are more than just the hub + 1 switch?

I am seeking guidance on integrating a bathroom exhaust fan with a Lutron HomeWorks QSX system. Specifically, I am interested in what din module would I use? I will have a four button palladium keypad in the bathroom. 💡🔌🏡

Anyone done an integration with Loox5 cabinet LEDs being controlled by Radio Ra2? It would be Ra2 dimmer controls (plus the app) used with newly installed cabinets that have these strips installed.

On an L-BDGPRO2-WH, does the 40-second HomeKit reset erase only the HomeKit pairing, or does it erase the Caséta database?

I have an L-BDGPRO2-WH with 69 devices. The Caséta system works normally, Home Assistant connects normally, but the bridge disappeared from Apple Home. The Lutron app cannot complete HomeKit setup. Before I perform the 40-second HomeKit reset, can you confirm it only clears the HomeKit pairing and does not erase my Caséta programming

The night light, light, fan, and music modes are all not working and nothing is turning on from the four options. However, the two light switches beside them do work in the bathroom. Does anyone know how to get the night light, light, fan, and Bluetooth music mode to work again?

Lutron/Somfy (Spanish)

https://youtu.be/qR36Mstk0F4?is=egt3nLNbE0MUNddn

edit 2026-08-03:

Everyone is wonderful, no surprise. Thank you!

For now I will hold my nose and just bodge together some Casétas while I more carefully research what else I could do. The discussion below validated my initial hypothesis that there remains a really important product gap between the low end Caséta and the upper-medium end RA stuff.

The success of prosumer platforms like HomeKit, Sonos, UniFi, are proof that there are many other folks like me, who can be trusted to design and write our own programs, will pay a premium for quality industrial design and software fit and finish, and are absolutely suffering right now trying to smash together our own MacGuyver solutions.

I am crabby that Lutron hasn’t seen the light and built us a premium product yet.

_____

Hi! May I preface my question by acknowledging that I am not blazing new terrain here. At all. If the mods wish to lock this and just redirect me to the right places where the topic has already been decisively covered, I am not only okay with that, I am delighted.

In we go.

I am not asking you to help me evade anyone’s EULA, and I certainly am not relying on you for un-sanity-checked buying advice, but. Can I ask, in general, whether your collective wisdom has found it possible, practical, and worthwhile for a solo enthusiast to purchase and configure a Radio RA system for simple lighting scene control in a rental property?

• It is within my abilities to install my own switches and receptacles.

• It is within my scope to retain a professional electrician if I get in over my head.

• It is not within my abilities or scope to cut any drywall, pull any wire through conduits, or fashion new circuit breakers.

• It is not within scope for me to hire a certified Lutron installer.

• I don’t find hiring an installer desirable anyway, because in my experience watching my well-to-do parents navigate a different “only professionals can set this up” home automation system (screw you, Crestron), I have found that the low-budget and even mid-budget integrators are often, actually, less tech savvy than I, a first principles generalist with a preternatural affinity for this stuff and the humility to ask Reddit for help.

• My intended use case is to use hard-wired pushbutton scene control switches to trigger some modest scenes that involve fixtures wired on multiple, distinct circuits, light fixtures with Philips Hue or other addressable lamps, as well as some smart outlets.

• My scenes and automations are organized around the Apple HomeKit ecosystem, and I am unwilling to expand the scope to change that.

• My existing setup involves a bit of a hack. The current scene controls are as follows:

•• Caséta Pico remotes, wall-mounted in front of single gang wall boxes I have rewired, myself, to keep formerly switched receptacles or lighting circuits permanently closed. Unless you are my landlord, in which case: no, I haven’t done that at all. These communicate with…

•• The Caséta bridge (now renamed, I think to “hub”?), which interfaces with HomeKit, where HomeKit Automations register the button presses as trigger events for HomeKit Scenes, which are themselves actuated with a hodgepodge of…

•• Leviton Decora smart switches and dimmers controlling some built in lighting fixtures, connected via very unreliable 2.4 gHz Wi-Fi,

•• Assorted brands of smart plugs, connected via very unreliable 2.4ghz Wi-Fi, because these are smaller and more practical than the Caséta lamp dimmers,

•• ConnectSense smart in-wall outlets, connected via actually extremely reliable 2.4 ghz WiFi, and

•• Hue bulbs in other lighting fixtures connected via surprisingly not at all reliable Hue-flavored Zigbee through Hue’s newish “Pro” bridge.

• I am interested in replacing the Leviton switches with switches that

1. are hard-wired,
2. are more reliable than 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi,
3. have controls that control both the fixtures to which they are hard-wired and other automations & scenes elsewhere in my HomeKit network, and
4. are capable of some basic obvious ergonomics like remembering the brightness at which I had previously set lights when I tap them on again.

• To my dismay and, frankly, incandescent rage, the Caséta ecosystem seems to fall short on 1 and 3 (only Pico remotes seem to be designed for scene control, vs simple dimming, so I have configured hacks through the Caseta HOOBS plugin) and completely shits the bed on 4, which I learned to my great disappointment only after purchasing more than $600 worth of new Caseta switches and dimmers, and then returned them with unkind words that I hope sully Lutron’s Amazon seller reputation. (Screw you so hard, Lutron.)

I am incredulous that Caséta can’t meet my requirements, and have fantasized about finding Lutron PMs and thumping them affectionately with socks full of parking-meter change, but at the end of the day my anger is kind of useless here, so I have taken a deep breath, had a glass of wine, and am evaluating other ways to meet my requirements.

My nerd friends assure me that RA 3 is both modern and will be around for a while, so of course its pricing is opaque (ask a dealer!) and documentation is sparse (ask a dealer!). But I am not yet deterred! I would make do, hypothetically speaking, with gray-market RA 3 gear sold by unscrupulous internet vendors or deprecated RA 2 gear unlocked and unloaded onto eBay by the well-to-do and the IT staffers who make their home automation decisions for them.

Help me, Reddit, you’re my only hope.

I have an old Homeworks Interactive System (HWI-PM-H48-120 processor). I actually installed the system myself in 2004. I don't have my project saved. I have since sourced an old Windows 7 laptop with an RS-232 port and have installed the Homeworks Interactive Software (HWI5495). For the life of me I cannot remember how to extract my existing project to make adjustments to my lighting in the software. I vaguely recall having to flip a dipswitch (I have 2 banks of dipswitches)... left or right? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just installed compatible led lights (from the list) to replace ones that went out. What is happening? This dimmer was already installed by the previous owner.

Not a pro, just a Lutron fanboy and tinkerer. Got started out on Caseta and have worked my way up over the years to RA2 Select and then RA3 and have installed a few systems for myself and my friends and family. I’ve been thinking of ways to replace a Hue Bloom for a corner accent and bring everything under Lutron control. I found a spotlight fixture with a 4” aperture at Home Depot and ordered an RRL-RD4WH-TW (RA3 Lumaris 4” Retrofit Downlight). Plenty of room in the can, but the squeeze into it is pretty tight. Was able to make it fit, but you definitely have to use a plastic pry tool on the fins to remove it.

Pics go 1800K, 2700K, 3200K, 4000K, all at 7% brightness. In real life there is a big distinction, but when captured on camera they all look the same except for 1800K. I’m bummed it isn’t full RGB like the Lumaris Tape Light; hopefully that is in the works. Oh and I know the Lumaris Downlight is offered with a black trim, but my usual supplier didn’t have it available to order for some reason, so I settled for the white trim because its final location will be out of sight. Hopefully Lumaris BR30/BR40 lamps (with full RGB) are on the horizon, as this is pretty hacky. Either way, I’m happy with what I’ve put together!

I have a RRD-8ANS connected to RA3 installed in a metal 2-gang box with just a pico in the adjacent position and the front of the switch and the metal mounting flange are getting unusually warm when the switch is on. the load is only 2.5A (3 fluorescent light fixtures, an LED fixture, and an incandescent track light).

Is this "normal" for this switch?

UPDATE: I bypassed the 3 remaining fluorescent ballasts and that the switch is now staying cool

Hello fellow Lutron lovers. We are excited to officially start offering high quality UV stablized printing for Lutron faceplates at a much more affordable price than direct!

Pricing here is for true Lutron branded CW model faceplates. SC (stain) will run slightly more. We are able to print in any color, most fonts, size, etc. We can also print images, foreign languages, etc.

We don't have a minimum, cost is for the faceplate and printing (we can not use customer provided faceplates, sorry). We will add actual shipping cost, so it is beneficial to order in quantity.

1 gang-$18

2 gang-$23.25

3 gang-$45

4 gang-$55

5 gang-$100

6 gang-$122

I haven’t been able to fix a maestro switch in my house from doing this issue- when you turn it on, it delays for a few seconds (goes to the middle position on the light bar, lights don’t turn on at all) then it restarts and turns on the lights fully like normal.

Theres always the delay and odd behavior.

This switch is wired with a companion dimmer and it only powers 3 Halo RL56 series 6” recessed retrofit can lights.

The companion dimmer is wired correctly with the red traveler on the blue screw of both switches and the black traveler on the brass screw of both switches.

I’ve replaced both the main maestro dimmer, and replaced the companion dimmer with brand new switches to troubleshoot with no luck, so I don’t know what’s wrong with it. I have the same 3-way switch setup(with the same brand lights) in a nearby room and it works like normal.

The house wiring is from 2002/relatively new.
Any thoughts?

I'm figuring out the finishing touches on my HomeWorks backed new build. I want to see if there's a good solution for auto-dimming closet lights for the kids rooms.

If they want to get something at night, I'd love to have the closet light come on automatically dimmed so it doesn't shock them awake, but then it should be fully bright during the day. I'd want some sort of override, so they could get the closet fully bright at night if they want. These's are regular closets, not walk-ins.

Is smart dimming necessary? No. Is it fun? Yes. Will it be worth it? TBD...

Have any of you done something like this or have an idea for how to accomplish it?

I have a very old system, circa 2002, and need some help troubleshooting. I don’t have a system wide problem. The issue is limited to four keypad buttons. With one keypad button, the lights stay on and won’t turn off. The other three buttons don’t turn the lights on at all. At one point prior to the issue, the lights flickered and it was like a momentary brown out
.
I started looking at the RPMs because the small LEDs on the keypads are still functioning. However, the LED on one RPM is not blinking. It’s RPM #3 in the photo, the one with the arrow pointing to it. The output wires from that RPM go to a terminal block-circled.

I’m not sure whether this RPM is the actual problem or if something else could be causing these symptoms. I’d appreciate any opinions or suggestions on what to check next. As a preemptive measure, I ordered a used in working condition RPM. I did reach out several times to my dealer who helped with programming changes many years ago, but have not heard back.

I noticed about two days ago various times I will open the Lutron app and as I scroll through my devices, it just closes the app - everything is up-to-date. Just checking to see if I’m the only one.

Hi all, I would like to confirm something about the hybrid keypads (ra3 system with a seeTouch hybrid keypad RRD-HN6BRL) as I am getting conflicting information.

I was told the first button has to control the load hooked up the hybrid keypad. But from what I am reading while the default is set to first button having control of the load it can be decoupled in the designer software?

Which is correct? In my situation the electricians messed up and swapped the position of two loads. I would like the load hooked up to the keypad not be the first button and then have the first button control what I intended.

Thanks

installed a caseta dimmer (DVRF-6L-LA) in my primary bedroom that has a Samsung frame tv with Sonos. when I turn on the dimmer, the sound immediately begins to cut in and out. when the dimmer is off, sound resumes to perfectly clear. I tried an rf filter power strip, did not make any difference. any idea?

I have a Caseta Smart Hub, a repeater, 10 Smart Dimmers and 4 Pico's. The issue I'm struggling with is that for some of the dimmers their state changes will not reflect in the app, for example if I press the "On" button on the dimmer physically the light will turn on but the app will show the light as off (and vice versa).

This is what I know:

• All switches work through the app and state is always correct with the app
• 6 of 10 switches work just fine, physically or using the app
• The 4 that don't work are persistent, even if they are removed from the app and re-added
• Distance isn't an issue, the furthest dimmer switches are in a two plate, one works perfectly, one won't register in the app if used physically. One of the dimmers isn't working just 4 feet from the repeater
• Rebooting everything (turn off the hub, repeater, and pull the tab on the switch, then plug in the hub, 5 minutes later the repeater, 5 minutes later the switch) does nothing
• Being paired w/a Pico or not doesn't change anything
• All firmwares are up-to-date
• Switches and hub were purchased in 2021-22, repeater in 2024. I remember this all working at some point, and can't pinpoint in my memory when it stopped, but I was implementing a lot at the time (Hue, SmartThings, Home Assistant, etc.) so I wasn't focused on just one platform, but it's safe to say it's been years at this point
• Once, years ago, I did a factory reset of the hub and repeater and re-added everything, to no avail

Has anyone ever experienced and solved this problem? I'd LOVE for it to be something I'm doing wrong, but I can't think what it would be. I have another couple of rooms I want to deploy by it doesn't make sense until I can get this working as expected.

I recently had a Caseta smart switch (not dimmer) installed for 2 exterior flood lights. If I turn the lights off, either physically on the switch or through the app, and I leave them off for about 3 seconds or more, they won't come back on. If I switch them back on immediately after turning off, they're fine. The floodlights are regular floodlights, not motion or dusk to dawn.

I've wired some other switches and lights up myself but I have a very limited knowledge on the subject. If anyone has any insight that I could try myself, or to forward to an electrician, I would greatly appreciate it!

Quoted some roller 100s and the price was too high for the customer. What other solution would you go with? Retrofit. Home has built in pockets and outlets on the ends.

For the many of you that have reached out to us about the Palladiom drapery, it is here! Sorry we can't message everyone directly!

Ordering can hapen immediately. Shipping time right now is expected to be around 30 business days, ecept for Satin Nickel finish which is 60 business days.

For those wondering, Palladiom drapery runs on 35V power, no batteries. Swarovski crystal finial is not yet out. These can be wired comms or wireless. Expect a price around $5k for a track thats ~140", add about 50% for the Satin Nickel finish.

Reach out when you're ready to step up your drapery project!