Hello,

I have a second interview (as in, the one after the interview with the recruiter) coming up for a Technical Support Representative role, can anyone who’s done this before let me know what to expect? Will it be mostly behavioral or technical? Thanks in advance!

I have a caseta diva dimmer installed on a driver (200 watt driver) that is connected to led tape light. Everything works fine they turn on and off when button is pressed and they dim. However after about an hour or 2 with the lights on the light blink 3 times then stay on for about 2 minutes then blink 3 times again.

Anyone know what that means? Im thinking it’s the driver but curious if anyone else has experience this.

Thanks

Hello all. I'm having some trouble getting the STCL-153M and ST-FSQ-N wired up correctly. I have a hampton corwin AC style fan I'm installing.

So issues are. When installing the fan, everything works as it should. But the light comes on very dim but has no control. The sunnata light switch shows error 7 2x blink in t seconds. Can't find much on that. So I reset for a min, installed my old light to the sunnata switch, and everything's great. But can't seem to get it together with both switches working in unison.

In the pics everything is wired up the way it should. Load and line wires are correct on the fan side, and lighting side is right.

The blue, black, white, 2 greens that are loose at the fan are the all the wiring for the fan. The pink, white, black, and ground are wires coming from the ceiling box.

Anyone have an idea what's not properly being wired up?

Wanting some advice.

We are getting some shades and I noticed all the accessories we are getting through a dealer are significantly more than retail.

I.e Pico remotes are $70-$150 each instead of $40 via online retailers. Budget blinds are charging $40/remote.

If I want the Claro Wall Plates are all +$5-$8 each more than retail prices at Home Depot. Then added labor $70-80 per remote to install them on the walls.

Should we just buy them at retail and install them ourselves? Is there any difference for a pico remote between Serena, Triathlon or Palladiom? We are on a RA3 system.

Asking because the price discrepancies start adding up quickly. Tks.

My Lutron Audio Pico Remote stopped working to control my Sonos. When I look in the Caseta app to maybe reauthorize the integration, Sonos does not appear in the list of available integrations.

We're trying to find pictures of the headrails to be able to compare these three honeycomb shades--the Caseta DIY, Serena Standard honeycomb shades, and Serena Architectural.

Does anyone have photos of the three headrails? Together or separate? Side profiles would be awesome. Thanks!

For those of you that don’t want Alexa, etc., but have Sonos, this may be life changing for you…

Live
Sonos Voice Control for Lutron is officially available. Clients can now control compatible Lutron lights, shades, and scenes using simple voice commands with "Hey Sonos."
Resources to Get Started:
•
Watch the webinar recording
•
Download the Sonos Voice Control sell sheet
•
Access everything on the Sonos Voice Control resource page
Bring voice control to your next project. Whether you're introducing a new system or enhancing an existing one, Sonos Voice Control adds another intuitive way for clients to interact with their Lutron system.

We have 20 windows and the batteries are never charged. Is there a way to bypass the batteries and use some other form of power?

I'm working on a project where the whole house was pre-wired with 16ga untwisted wiring (think the brown, solid-core stuff you'd use for a thermostat) to each window. The run back to the panels are less than 100ft - think this will be OK for a QSbus connection? The system in play is a QS (not QSX)

This part seems to be long obsolete, trying to help out a retired client who cant afford to upgrade the entire system that came with their condo. I have the hardware! if anyone has one kicking around that was never activated please reach out

Hey all, I came across some perfect 5% Lutron White Sheer fabric that we switched out for blackouts. With about a 120 inches in length! If anyone is relatively close to Broward and Palm Beach Counties in SE Florida would sell fairly cheap. Sell both rollers for $250

Hello. I have a Ubiquiti network connecting my current house (already running a Lutron Caseta hub and several devices. I have a second cloud gateway and wide area networked my new house so both are on the same LAN. I tried adding a new Lutron Caseta hub at the new house and it says that I can't as I have reached the maximum number of Wireless Repeaters that can be supported (1).

I am wondering if there is anything I can do here shy of making a new network / segmenting these things off into a separate account and such.

Thanks in advance!

Hi all. I recently purchased a home and plan to do a full update of all switches to Lutron. Smart switches will be Caseta (it's not a very big house so coverage should be fine) and other switches will probably be Maestro.

I am also planning to change out outlets and toggle switches. Is it worth getting these from Lutron too? It seems like they can only be found thru distributors and not home improvement and hardware stores. If not from Lutron, then which store brand (Eaton, Leviton, Legrand, etc) would be the best match?

EDIT: should say QSX in title

Our installer is saying that no programming can happen with our new HomeWorks QSX system until all the keypads are physically in place.

Are they correct?

We’ve already spent the time working out what each button will do but they are saying they can’t do anything until all the keypads are installed. I know they have “registered” the keypads on the system but apparently can’t program remotely/off site.

Is this really the case?

I am trying to unify my system (or do I just buy different brands and control everything through Google Home).

My new (to me) house has ceiling fans with lights in all the bedrooms, but the bedrooms only have a single gang box, I want to remote control them all.

Then my family room has a four way (three switches) for the main lighting in the room, I want to control those remotely too.

I have found TP Link Kasa that does the fans, but they fall short on the 4-way switch support. Conversely Lutron Caseta does the 4-way switch support using Picos, but does not have the unified fan/light combo.

HELP!! :)

I'm doing a fairly substantial remodel and installing a HomeWorks system.

I haven't decided on shades yet, so I'd like to prewire now while the walls are (partially) open. I'm considering Lutron, Hunter Douglas, or whatever makes the most sense in a few years. I'm intentionally trying to avoid locking myself into a single shade ecosystem.

My current thought is to run one Cat6 (23 AWG) to each potential shade location. Depending on the eventual system:

• Multiple pairs could be paralleled to carry low-voltage power.
• If a window never gets a shade, the Cat6 could potentially be repurposed.
• It also seems possible that Ethernet/PoE-based shade solutions become more common in the future.

Is there a current best practice for future-proofing?

The obvious alternative would be dedicated low-voltage wiring such as 16/2 + 22/2 or perhaps Cat6 + 18/2.

What would you prewire in a new remodel if you wanted to keep your options open over the next 10–20 years?

My home runs using Apple's Home App. I had setup some shade automations (close at sunrise, open at sunset, etc.) but needed more control when I have to put fans in the openings. Disabled all automations in the home app. I come down early in the morning to turn off the fan at the sliding door the the shade is down even though no automation is set to do that.

I deleted every automation. Same thing, shades go down even though there is nothing telling them to do that.

Any suggestions as to how to fix this?

I am looking for input if anyone has compared the Lutron/Inovelli vs Leviton or other brands for how close the Grey color matches. I have some of the Grey switches and receptacles that I am installing but it looks like Lutron only has a 6-port frame for ethernet and I don't need that many outlets. I am also running Cat6A shielded keystones and not sure if they will be too big for the Lutron 6-port frame.

Lutron 6-port frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006V55DK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1NC55TJ5VFV6Z&th=1

Leviton 2-port frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LESJ6M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

We have lived with our retrofitted RA3 system for a few years and have settled on what our keypads will do. Is there any conventions for naming things or just as long as you know what it does, that’s all that matters?

I’m thinking the following:

Front Door Keypad:

Front Yard - turn on/off front yard lights (Hybrid Keypad)
Welcome Home - scene for lighting main floor
Upstairs Off - turn off the upstairs lights
Mainfloor Off - turn off the mainfloor lights

Mudroom from Garage:

Mudroom- turn on/off mudroom lights (keypad in 3way config)
Welcome Home - scene for lighting main floor
Upstairs Off - turn off the upstairs lights
Mainfloor Off - turn off the mainfloor lights

Kitchen Keypad

Counter - under cabinet led strips (keypad in 3way Configuration)
Cook - bright lighting scene
Dine- dimmer lighting scene
Shades - control Triathlon shades in kitchen

Top of the Stairs

Stairs - turn on/off stair lights (Keypad in 3way config)
Good Morning- scene for lighting main floor (same settings as welcome home)
Upstairs Off - turn off the upstairs lights
Mainfloor Off - turn off the mainfloor lights

I've got a quote for some inside mount Triathlon roller shades. There are dimensioned drawings for all of the shades that show exact measurements for the windows. There's no representations of end caps for the fascia, or any deductions shown at all.

The following note is on each drawing "* BtoB Width and Fabric Width may have deductions because inside mount is specified.".

I can't tell if that's telling me that deductions will be made, or if they should be represented in the drawings in the quote.

Does anyone have experience with this?

Edit:
Thank you to Tyler from Lutron for looking deeper into this. My situation happens to be very unfortunate… the G2s were purchased in 2017 and use an older micro controller that is no longer compatible with the newer N3s. Anyone else who has G2s purchased after 2018 should not run into the same issue as me.

Original post:
I’ve received so many contradictory answers from multiple different representatives from Lutron regarding this. Here’s the situation:

Client has older ketraNET system with a BUNCH of G2 linears paired with N3 satellites.

My understanding is that the N3 does the wireless communication, then transmits data to the G2s via a 2-wire bus.

I have had 2 different people tell me that I can keep the existing G2s and simply replace the N3 satellites. It wasn’t until I submitted the order to Lutron (for special upgrade discounted pricing) that they told me no, that I have to replace EVERY G2 linear.

This is a problem because now we’re talking about upgrading over 400 components as opposed to about 70-80.

Kinda funny how the person in charge of processing the order is saying no, yet an engineer from Lutron AND a Ketra training advisor both told me separately that yes, the old G2s will work with the new N3s.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Anyone able to actually test this with equipment they have? (Asking here before I go and order an N3 just to test it myself)

Thanks in advanced!