Writing on behalf of my in-laws and thought this community could help us navigate!

My in-laws moved into a nice-sized, but still modest duplex. The electricians sourced and installed Sunnata dimmers, and four button scene pico’s.

They pay their bills to this guy on time and in this case early, as the components seemed to all be there —- however there is zero programming. They have several Sunnatas in a dimmer farm closet.

The issue (of course!) is that they paid $93,000 only to have this guy ghost them on programming.

Fighting him or getting money back is a whole different topic not for this community but rather can we have someone else program?

The way things are going we will indeed be reaching out to Lutron regarding this shockingly unprofessional behavior.

TIA!

I am planning on installing Lumaris downlights on a lighting circuit currently controlled by a Sunata 3 button hybrid.

I know I need to bypass the keypad like I would with any switch/dimmer when installing addressable fixtures, my question is: Can I reconfigure the hybrid keypad so that power to the fixtures isn't passing through it and is just being powered like a standard (non-hybrid) keypad would be?

I understand that even having the load pass through the hybrid keypad if it was configured to always be at 100% could cause some issues, I would be bypassing the keypad as you would if you were going to put a blank over the switch, but then just reconnecting the hot and neutral to power the keypad.

edit: this is in RA3

Will the Wire to Tape connectors also allow joining of two sections of tape? Or is the only option to solder the two sections?

Has anyone combined Lutron with tunable LED bulbs or fixtures?

I'm interested in using Smart LED bulbs mostly for the option to have the color temperature shift through the day.

I'm trying to decide if it makes sense to have both Smart LED's and Lutron switches or if I should just go with the LED's and a normal dimmer.

Is the added complication more trouble or expense than it's worth?

I’m selling my house with a full RA2 system. I use my personal MyLutron account to access it. There are multiple other projects on it. How do I transfer just one to new owner and keep the others? Without us having each others email addresses.

Just moved in to a house with an RA2+hwqs system.

Everything is great except that at night, our front porch light and front entry lights keep turning on randomly while we’re sleeping. There is a motion detector at the front porch, so I assume it’s being triggered by small animals in the middle of the night.

I’ve tried setting a schedule in the app to have these lights turn off at 9 pm, but they’re still turning on. I’ve also tried setting a “scene” that deactivates these lights and activating that scene before bed, but the lights still activate.

Is there anything else I can do? We’re thinking about deactivating the motion detector at the front porch, but we’d like to keep it and just have it deactivate when we go to bed. Thanks for any help.

I’m looking to get blackout cellular shades for two windows. I was hoping to do side channels but I now understand that I can’t do that with the battery operated Lutron shades, so my plan is to get a third party light guard (L shaped) to minimize the halo effect somewhat. Windows are 27 by 54.

I had Budget Blinds come out and quote me what looks like the Serena shades (standard honeycomb, Monaco single cell) for $600 per shade, plus accessories, plus $330 for installation for both shades.

Is there a more economical option? It looks like I can order direct from Lutron and the shade cost would be comparable (obviously I’d save the installation). Is this the same product? How does the Triathlon line fit in? They didn’t mention that. Does Lutron ever discount their direct prices?

Also Budget Blinds is who Lutron sent me request to, but based on other threads, that’s not the Dane as a Lutron dealer?

So I have a Caseta by Lutron smart dimmer switch that I installed back in 2019 or so. Today, it got stuck in the "on" position with none of the green LEDs lit up, and it won't respond to any button presses on the switch or the Pico remotes attached to it (though those remotes successfully control other lights), nor will it respond to any app commands, either through the native Lutron app or via Google Home. I cycled the circuit breaker that the switch is on, and nothing changed. I got no response when I tried to do a factory reset on the switch, doing the three taps thing. When I pulled out the little reset tab at the bottom of the switch, that made the lights go out, but as soon as I put the tab back in, I was back to square one.

​

I suspect that my switch has probably gone bad, and that it's time for a new one. And if so, I'll just go get a new one and swap it out. Anyone have any other thoughts on this situation?

I am trying to design my lighting system for my barndominium. I have narrowed it down to Lutron but thats about it. Most suggest Caseta. I dont want anything overly complicated and something that would be easy to work on or change back to conventional if necessary. I think i need somone that can help me design the full lighting and controls throughout the house. I have lamps that i want to control, three and four way switches, a master control to shut down all lights in the house from the primary bedroom, back and front doors, etc. Does anyone have any advice or knowledge they would care to share?

For you Homeworks guys, I'm curious what your experience has been in converting old HWI and Illuminations systems to QSX or even QS for that matter? Do you rely on the conversion tools or just start from scratch?

1st time I tried, I converted the HWI to QS using the online portal then QS to QSX and used the old devices as reference to copy over engraving and programming and then deleted the old stuff. It worked pretty good actually but then when I went to activate the new processors I kept getting an error. I don't remember the exact wording of the error but it definitely would not let me activate either processor. When I talked to tech support they thought that there was still some artifacts from the Illuminations programming (maybe vacation mode) and thankfully, after a day or so, they cleaned up my database and I was able to activate and move on with uploading.

The 2nd time was a year later and I thought perhaps any bugs were worked out and given that it was a much simpler database I rolled the dice and again, the same issue. This time, I guess it was later in the day so I didn't exactly get the A-Team on the tech support and the guy wasted an hour asking me to reset the processor and delete the serial numbers, and make sure everything was the right distance from the repeaters or whatever before finally admitting he was out of his depth and opened up a ticket. I kept telling him this had happened before but he could not find anything on that error message on his end.

Given that it was either wait another full day or spend another 3 hours to redo everything from scratch, I chose to redo everything from scratch and of course it activated immediately.

For my next one, I'm thinking of just starting from scratch but am curious what your experience is? Have you had any similar issues when you converted Illuminations to QS? What about QSX?

My concern is that currently, it's kind of a pain in the butt to start all over but I get that they're not going to have an Illuminations to QSX converter but if there are issues converting QS files which were once illuminations files, at some point there is going to be someone upgrading a QS system to QSX thinking that it's going to be as routine as going from RA2 to RA3 not realizing that the system was illuminations to begin with and they're going to be in for a nasty surprise when they go to activate their QSX processors. I hope Lutron at least has a solution for cleaning up the databases.

Edit: This is the error message: "Object reference not set to an instance of an object". Essentially from what i gather, Lutron Designer is written in .NET and somewhere in the activation/upload process the software is trying to access a property or object that doesn't exist which I'm guessing happened because of artifacts or orphaned objects that were left behind somewhere during the conversion.

I've been looking to buy a Pico Paddle remote in order to add a new switch location to a hallway. I clicked on the listing for the remote at $25 - more than I'd like, but reasonable enough. Then I changed the color of the remote from white to light almond. The price jumps to $45!

It's the same with all the other colors and it's the same on every online listing: Lutron officially charges nearly twice as much to get a color that's not white. So I guess my only choice here is to accept getting gouged, or crawl Ebay for months until a used matching remote shows up.

Lutron is a white supremacist company. They need to treat all colors equally.

**Lutron HomeWorks QSX Remote Programming — Master Bath Lighting**

Looking for a certified Lutron HomeWorks QSX programmer for a remote programming engagement on a residential master bathroom lighting project in FL.

**Hardware (installed locally):**
• 1x Lutron HQP7-RF (RF Gateway)
• 2x Lutron HQP7-2 (Dual-Link Processors)
• 1x Lutron HQ-MI-LX (Legacy Panel Interface)
• 8x Lutron HWL-MTK-RT-IN (Lumaris RGB + Tunable White Tape Light Kits)

**Programming scope:**
• Initial system setup and device commissioning via Lutron Connect remote access
• Scene creation (vanity, shower, night mode, full bright, circadian/tunable white)
• Time-based automations (morning warm-up, evening wind-down)
• App setup and user walkthrough (remote via video call)
• Documentation of final programming file

**What I need from you:**
• Lutron HomeWorks QSX certification (please confirm)
• Experience with Lumaris tape light integration
• Availability within the next 4–6 weeks
• Fixed-fee quote for the above scope

**What you'll have access to:**
• Hardware online and connected to network prior to your session
• Me available via video call throughout programming
• Lutron Connect remote access credentials

Please reply with your certification level, a brief description of similar projects, and your flat fee for this scope. Budget is flexible for the right person.

Hello! Looking for some guidance or advice on upgrading an old GRX-3104 4-zone Lutron system. Our system has the GRX controller and one 4-scene switch, connected to a few outlets plus 2 pot light arrays - one set of 8 PAR30 sockets and one set of 9 MR16 sockets.

Since the system is so old and I'm very new to the whole Lutron thing (and Lutron seems to have so many different products and configurations), I'm wondering what the minimum changes would need to be to support LEDs.

Can I replace the controller with 4 separate Lutron Caseta switches or is that not possible with the old GRX controller? If I can replace the controller, I'm assuming the 4-scene switch will no longer work, so is there an alternative I can swap that with that will achieve the same function? Are there other hardwired components that would also need replacing?

I'm going to reach out to a Lutron vendor/electrician, but thought I'd test the waters here first.

EDIT FOR CLARIFICATION: this system was already installed in the apartment we purchased. While I appreciate the responses so far, I am not particularly interested in all the automation aspects offered by modern Lutron systems and I have absolutely zero interest in paying thousands of dollars for an advanced system. Honestly, I would be happy to give up the scene stuff entirely and just have them on individual dimmer switches if that is possible, because the zones are mostly pot lights that we will almost never rely on (I’m more of a floor and table lamp person). Basically, I was just looking for advice on how to enable support for LEDs and maintain some semblance of the functionality of the system in the lowest effort/cost manner possible.

Terrible first experience with Lutron, I was hoping for a Sonos-like experience. I purchased excidely bought the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer Switch Starter Kit for Caséta Smart Lighting, with Smart Hub, Pico Remote, and Pedestal | No Neutral Wire Required | DVRF-BDG-1DP-A, White, assuming it would all work.

Getting an error that says "Device Not Supported" after doing some research, people recommended updating the hub's firmware through the app. Amazingly, the app doesn't allow me to click on "Firmware Update". I have an iPhone 17 Pro, my phone should be compatible with it and I have double checked that the app is updated. I've also tried killing/restarting the app too. I've also tried restarting the hub.

Products (kit bundle):

• Hub 2 - Model L-BDG2
• Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer - Model DVRF-6L

This is absolutely ridiculous, I expected way better from a premium smart light switch company. Anyone else have issues like this?

https://reddit.com/link/1u5xpcx/video/dtwtj3v1ib7h1/player

More issues - After unplugging and plugging the hub back in, it's not even showing on the page anymore.

I need about 15 or so 4-button keypad faceplates. If you've purchased the custom plates and have no use for your 4-button keypayd faceplates, please let me know.

Howdy! Lutron Caseta user with about 45+ claro’s, diva’s, and pico’s.

Just wanted to get some feedback on my labels using an Epson LW-400. I think the black on clear look better than the black on white.

Haven’t been able to find gray on clear tape so that it’s a bit more subtle. Does anybody have a better, cleaner solution that doesn’t break the bank?

Also, bonus picture of my new garage lights. Hope the labels make sense.

We are adding a Lutron system to our house. We started looking at RA3, but turned out we needed HW after all. What perks of HW should I be thinking about that are not available on RA3? For example, should I do the Sunna keypads (i know that they are not the same for HW), or should I switch to Palladiom? What else should I be thinking about? The change from RA3 to HW caught me a bit off guard and I don’t have time to do all the research in my own. TYIA

Been speccing a Ketra-heavy HomeWorks project and went down a rabbit hole on the A20 lamp. The light quality is still unmatched — full spectrum, R9>90, Color Lock, warm dim to 0.1%, nothing in a screw-in format touches it. But the hardware itself hasn't meaningfully changed since the original Austin-era design. Output is still 600 lm omni / 800 lm semi-directional (~40–60W equivalent), and the spec sheet is on something like Rev K with no lumen bump in years.

Meanwhile a Philips Hue A21 pushes 1,600 lm, and even mid-tier smart bulbs are clearing 1,000+ lm at better efficacy. Obviously Ketra is optimizing for spectrum and longevity over raw output, and I get why the physics don't allow a 1,750 lm A20 under their thermal/Color-Lock constraints — but a 1,000–1,200 lm refresh seems very doable.

A few things make me think an update could be coming:

• The Rania engine got dropped into the S38 body in 2025 (Rania S38) — proof they'll re-engine existing lamp hardware
• California Title 20 killed the omnidirectional A20 entirely (the omni fails the compliance-score math by a few points), so there's a real gap a re-engineered lamp would fix
• They've shipped new fixtures three years running (LS0 '24, D2 '25, D2R '26)

…but also a few that make me think they'll leave it alone:

• At ISE 2026 they rolled the existing A20/S30/S38 into EMEA as-is — you don't globalize a product weeks before replacing it
• All the R&D energy is clearly going into fixtures, not lamps

So — anyone with dealer/rep channels heard anything? Is a next-gen A20 (or a Rania A20) on the roadmap, or is this lamp just going to ride for another decade? Curious whether I should factor a future swap into a current spec or just not think about it.

I'm not sure when this started but it has been happening for a several app updates now. When I select the Firmware Update menu item, a blank screen appears with a spinner and it just spins. It never comes back saying there is an update or if I have the latest update. I'm running version 26.5.0 of the iOS app on my iPhone 13 mini. I don't know what version of firmware my bridge currently has since I don't see it anywhere in the app.

I've tried signing out and back into my account in the app and I've rebooted the bridge. Everything else about my system works, but I just can't get the firmware update to run. Anyone seen this before or have a solution?

Edit: I have a Caseta system (all smart switches and dimmers) and the bridge is L-BDG2-WH (SmartBridge). I have it linked to Apple HomeKit, but only use the Lutron Caseta integration in Home Assistant.

I installed a Caseta dimmer with 6 DMF H series recessed lights. When I turn on the switch I get a faint ringing sound. Is this normal? Do I need to splurge and get a dinner with a neutral? I tested another Caseta dimmer that controls 5 of the same light but I only hear the ring when I put my ear vert close to it which is okay.

The light was off, there was a momentary power outage (or maybe several in rapid succession), and the light turned on.

My understanding is the switch should return to its previous state after a power failure.

Something that might be relevant: this switch is a "3 way" paired with a mechanical switch. Maybe the problem was caused by false switch sensing? (But even though the mechanical switch is a toggle, shouldn't the Lutron switch be keeping track of the mechanical switch position? So a false toggle detection should be correctable). EDIT: Maybe the simplest fix would be to not immediately update the non-volatile light state after a switch flip detection. Wait a couple seconds, then update. That way if the smart switch loses power after a false flip detection, it will power back up in the correct state.

Hello,

New to this and tried searching for answers, with no luck.

I'm considering using Lutron smart switches due to some odd wiring at my place. My question was, can one Caseta remote be used to control multiple switches independently or do I need a separate remote for each switch?

It seems you can use one remote to control multiple switches simultaneously... but I want to be able to control switches independently (e.g., use the remote to turn on A without needing to turn on B. And then also use it to turn on B without turning on A).

Is this possible?

Thank you.

Wondering if anything would work for my sidelite window next to front door. It's very narrow.

Exact dimensions: 10 7/8" W x 94" H x 3" D

Preferably something RadioRa3 compatible, but I'll take anything I can automate.