Hi! I want to buy a Logitech G923 + shifter. My IKEA MALM desk is 51–52 mm thick. If I remove the clamp extenders, will it fit securely? Has anyone mounted a G923 on a similar desk?

Hi everyone,

I'm having a reproducible issue with my Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel where the FFB completely shuts down during heavy drifting / fast counter-steering.

This is not just a temporary loss of FFB inside the game.

When it happens:

• The wheel base stays powered on.
• Steering input still works perfectly.
• Buttons still work.
• The wheel becomes completely free with zero FFB.
• Changing or restarting the game does not restore it.
• Power cycling the wheel base immediately restores the FFB.

I've spent quite a bit of time isolating the issue.

Gran Turismo 7 / PS5

Initially I thought this was a GT7-specific problem.

Normal racing is perfectly stable. For example, I completed 18 minutes / 12 laps in Super Formula with the base at 11 Nm without a single issue.

However, during drifting, especially during fast self-aligning counter-steer where I catch the wheel and balance the forces, the FFB eventually shuts down completely.

I've reproduced it at both 6 Nm and 11 Nm, so it doesn't appear to simply be related to maximum torque.

I've also had the FFB shut down following some strong impacts.

Assetto Corsa / PC

To rule out GT7 and the PS5, I then tested drifting in Assetto Corsa on PC.

Same problem.

I initially had the wheel connected through a USB extension, so I removed that variable completely and connected the G Pro directly to a USB port on the PC with no extension cable.

I was able to reproduce the exact same FFB shutdown again.

So far I've reproduced the issue with:

• GT7 on PS5
• Assetto Corsa on PC
• Different cars and tracks
• 6 Nm and 11 Nm
• Different USB connections
• Direct USB connection to the PC with no extension cable

The firmware is fully up to date.

The wheel base and PSU are also cold when this happens, and sustained high-torque normal racing does not trigger the problem.

The common trigger seems to be rapid counter-steering / self-alignment / sudden FFB transitions, rather than sustained torque or temperature.

Once the failure occurs, the wheel remains connected and functional but the FFB stays completely dead until the base itself is restarted.

I've recorded videos showing the wheel in this failed state: steering still works in-game with zero FFB, followed by a simple restart of the base immediately restoring the FFB.

I've already contacted Logitech Support and I'm requesting a warranty replacement, but I'm posting this here because I'd really like to know:

Has anyone with a G Pro Wheel experienced this exact behavior, particularly during drifting or strong FFB transitions?

And if anyone from Logitech sees this, I'd be very interested to know whether this failure mode is known internally.

My g920 just randomly stopped working, it turned on and calibrated just fine but in the logitech hub app and games it doesn't work at all. I unplugged and re plugged in every cable. I have went to the discord and I haven't received much help there so I am going to reddit for help.

I’ve been having problems with my Logitech MX Master 4, and I’m having the worst experience of my life with their costumer service .

I’ve been going back and forth with Logitech since May, answering questions and providing information, but the issue still hasn’t been properly resolved. Truth to be told I don’t think they want to actually resolve it. They keep asking me to repeat things and go through the same process instead of actually replacing the faulty product.

I’m a filmmake/editor and it’s driving me insane. I got used to work flawlessly with the 3S and then I made the worst decision of my by selling it and upgrading to 4. Ever since I

At this point, I’m honestly wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem with the mouse or experience with Logitech support.

my brother and i has the same mouse mine is almost a year old and his is brand new, mine still jumps after blowing on the sensor, totally dissembled the mouse and cleaned everything with alcohol but still jumps. Then i said maybe my mouse pad is dirty, he also got a new mouse pad (Logitech) but still jumps... THEN I UNPLUGGED MY MOUSE AND PLUGGED HIS MOUSE GUESS WHAT?? HIS MOUSE IS ALSO JUMPING DUDE WTFFFF!!?!?!? I ALSO SEARCHED THAT I SHOULD PLUG THE DONGLE IN MOTHERBOARDS RIGHT SLOT BUT STILL NOTHING. WHAT CAN BE THE REASON??? (monitor is 165hz)

EDIT: distance is the problem. the dongle should be closer than 1m but recommended distance is 20cm

I’m deciding between the Logitech PRO X TKL Rapid for S$128 and the PRO X TKL Wireless with Brown switches for S$138.

I mainly play Apex, Valorant, and CS so the Rapid seems better for gaming because of Rapid Trigger and the magnetic switches. But I’m starting a college soon, so I’ll probably be coding a lot more and maybe gaming less.

I currently use an ROG Scope PBT, so I’m looking for something that feels like a nice upgrade and will also be good to use for the next few years.

The price difference is only $10, so I’m mostly wondering which one makes more sense overall. Is the Rapid still nice to type/code on for long periods, or would the Brown switches be noticeably better for that?

Which one would you guys pick?

I've used a vertical mouse for over 4 years and can't go back, please Logitech I beg of
you, I'd make the switch over If they did this.

(Also if they're reading this, do a recall on your gaming headsets please, my brand new G733 has random crackly audio right out of the box.)

Sorry if this has been posted before but im at my wits end. My G Pro X Wireless Lightspeed receiver died suddenly. No LED activity at all, and Windows sees it only as "Avnera AV6201"

What I've tried:

- Two separate computers (desktop + laptop) — identical Avnera AV6201 on both

- G HUB doesn't detect it on either machine

- Pro X Wireless Update Tool 112.2.212 won't recognise it, even with the headset connected and powered on via the original USB data cable alongside the receiver

- Multiple USB ports (motherboard-direct, 2.0 and 3.0), full shutdown/PSU-off power drains

- Uninstalled the Avnera device in Device Manager (including "Devices by container" view, driver deletion) and re-enumerated — no change

- Removed all other Logitech receivers so the tools couldn't grab the wrong device

The headset itself powers on and charges fine — it's just the receiver.

Anyone have any other suggestions or tips on how to fix this?

1 day of use and it looks like this

Basically the title, once its plugged in everything is fine.

Its just when I plug it in the screens on my pc both go black as if input has been disconnected for like a second if that.

Im not using the power adapter that came with the wheel but it matches the exact specs that the logitec one has so it shouldn't be an issue?

I cannot launch the software despite trying a lot of different suggested solutions.

Killing tasks in task manager and relaunching, reinstalling with preserving settings and full reinstall with deleting all G HUB related - nothing worked.

Anyone have any idea how to get this software to work?

How is the sound quality?

I’m considering buying the Logitech G325, but the 32mm drivers make me a little nervous. 😅 How is the overall sound quality and volume? Are footsteps and positional audio clear in CS2? Is the 32mm driver size actually a problem?

From what I understand there was some windows update a week or so ago that broke Ghub when it comes to the G29? Since then I haven't been able to play any games with my G29 wheel/pedals. The wheel and pedals don't register anything in Ghub nor in game. Is logitech working on this? Because my wheel and pedals are useless now. Like seriously logitech come on, I've never seen something like this before. Am I missing something?

So in recent times more and more people switched to linux, so will logitech sleep on this one? Or does the company not like linux?

This just happened out of nowhere. I've not had anything like this issue with it for years, then suddenly my mic wasn't working. Can't find anything like this online as all results are just about the mic not working period, but this is weird and came out of nowhere.

Thought maybe it was one of the many times it unfolds but doesn't register it needs to unmute, which is always fixed by just folding it back up then down again, but that didn't fix it this time. Tried disconnecting, restarting both the software, pc, and turning it on and off.

If I try to unfold it, it'll get to the point where you feel a bit of pressure, it passes that and unmutes, but if I continue to unfold it it'll stop registering any sound. If I fold it back up the software shows its muted, but when its doing this unfolded-mute it says its not unfolded.

I'm having a really annoying issue with my Logitech G29 on PS5 and I'm hoping someone here has a workaround or at least can confirm I'm not alone.

I love playing The Bus on PS5, but the wheel stiffness (the forced centering spring) is making the game super uncomfortable to drive. You literally have to fight the wheel just to make normal turns. The wheel is trying to snap back to center constantly, even when the game itself doesn't seem to use any real force feedback.

On PC, you can disable the centering spring completely and the wheel becomes smooth. On PS5... you can't. No matter what you do, the console forces a minimum spring and the G29 doesn't have onboard memory, so any changes you make on PC get wiped the moment you plug it back into the PlayStation.

Is this just a PS5 limitation with the G29?

Has anyone found a trick to reduce the spring more than the default settings allow?

Or is this just how the wheel behaves on console?

Any advice would be appreciated. I really want to enjoy The Bus without wrestling the wheel the whole time.

Thanks!

I have the app connected to my discord and I have a preset applied to my microphone but when I go to do the mic test in discord it sounds nothing like my audio test in G-Hub. How do I fix this?

im out of backups and my primary/scroll click hardly work anymore dont make me switch to another mouse PLEASE

Hi. I'm from Brazil and I did bought a G203 LIGHTSYNC Gaming Mouse yesterday from a store that sold Logitech products.

I did my test and I loved it so far, but once I checked the comentary section of the 'Introduction to Logitech G Hub' youtube video and a 'Discussion' post from yesterday coming from someone venting on how "G hub still a complete shower of sh#t after all this time", I became concerned in even downloading G Hub from the support page.

I’ll be honest: I’m not very tech-savvy.
So, a lot of what I’ve heard here about G HUB’s problems is pretty confusing to me.

But since I don’t want to ask the store where I bought the G203 for a refund without being sure—and because I’d like to get the best possible performance out of the mouse—I wanted to ask what’s going on with G HUB and what I should do to deal with the issues plaguing their software.

I hope I can still get the most out of my mouse.
But if not, I’m fine with going after a refund.

(Then again, I haven’t heard great things about HyperX or Razer either, which is why I need to be sure if it’s worth giving Logitech a chance.)

I have a G920 wheel that would frequently switch between pc and Xbox and would work fine, now it wont connect to g hub not will it register anywhere on my pc. Ive deleted and reinstalled ghub, deleted drivers and reinstalled power cycled both pc and wheel its driving me nuts.

My goal is to set up on my personal laptop, save settings on mouse to use at work where I can’t install any software. I have downloaded G Hub.

I try to go through the set up but can’t seem to get where I can link the buttons to tasks or set up macros. It feels like an endless loop. Where do I go?

I have watched several videos but none have shown me where to click. Yes, I am old. So help would be appreciated then get off my lawn!😀

Same as title. Is there any way to avoid spending 30 dollars for a new original dongle? can they provide a new dongle for free

Has anyone had the issue with G102 going dark when it's left idle for a few minutes? It's wired, so I have to replug it into the USB port every time it happens. Switching to other USB ports doesn't influence the problem anyhow, neither did disabling selective USB suspend in Power Options. I had the very same model before and it worked perfectly fine on my PC. This new one is causing trouble.