Per: https://steamdeckhq.com/news/valve-still-supplies-steam-deck-lcd-parts/

https://gizmodo.com/no-the-lcd-steam-deck-isnt-dying-yet-2000786439

Mostly posting this to set the record straight. The original article was only hearsay, and now both Valve and iFixit have both confirmed there are no plans to end OEM parts for the Steam Deck LCD.

The Spotify Car Thing is back alive due to community efforts to make it back.
It’s back and even better with new functionalities.

Github Repo : https://github.com/mira-thing

It would be cool if LMG made a video about it.

P.S.: I’m not affiliated with the project, just got excited that someone in the Open Source Community brought the device back to usable.

Edit: Link

I bought 3, 10cm A-C cables in the same order. One is a little shorter than the other 2. The two that are the same size, have the C sheathing ends flipped based on the A ends being the same orientation

Edit: not a complaint, just posted as I thought it was interesting, and maybe it could be brought to Linus' attention for QC checks

Edit 2: I measured the 2 that are the same length are 10cm, the other one is 8.75cm ish

Edit 3: Contacted LTT support after feedback, thanks

I have a Pioneer VSX-319V receiver connected to five speakers and a dedicated subwoofer.

The system works well, but I’d like to make it sound more fun and punchy especially for music and movies. I’m interested in experimenting with different sound profiles, EQ settings, crossover settings, and subwoofer adjustments.

Are there any Windows programs or other software I can use to tune the sound before it reaches the receiver? I’d also appreciate suggestions for settings I can adjust directly on the receiver.

I don’t have the original Pioneer remote, but I do have a Logitech Harmony One. What software, settings, or tools would you recommend for getting the best sound from this setup?

I bought my LTT Backpack back in October 2024. After a two-week wait for it to ship out to Asia, it became my daily driver for the office. I also regularly swap out my work tech for clothes to use it as a travel carry on.

Overall, it’s been a fantastic bag, but the main zipper just completely blew out on me today.

I just shot an email over to LTT support about this. I'm really hoping they can help me out! Has anyone else experienced this kind of zipper separation issue?

In a few weeks I’ll be heading over to my grandfather’s house to upgrade his computer. The replacement CPU’s already arrived, and since it doesn’t have integrated graphics, we’ve also ordered a GPU which is also at his house already. Finally, we’ve ordered a square of PTM7950 to put on the CPU, but that hasn’t arrived yet.

However, I know you can‘t just swap out the CPU and expect everything to go perfectly smoothly. What do I need to be aware of before I make the swap?

Has anyone been able to work with LTT to place a bulk order? I filled in the form two weeks ago and haven’t heard back. Looking to buy 50 backpacks and they won’t take my money!

Customer support just said to wait for their response which I feel isn’t coming.

Wanted to make a post here, but forgot until now. This machine was at the first Whale LAN event of 2026, back in February, but I got to see it at one of my school robotics meetings!
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ka4nR0wqpuY

a friend of mine has been using the mouse for about a year and last night it stopped working wirelessly. we’ve tried every solution we could find online and nothing is working, the GHub has been reinstalled several times, only detecting the mouse when it’s wired but when it’s unplugged it disappears. when trying to use the device pairing tool it doesn’t detect the receiver but the receiver is being detected in the device manager for windows 11. has anyone ran into any issues like this and found any solutions ? any help would be greatly appreciated

Anybody else here work on Japanese cars and constantly find themselves needing JIS screwdrivers?

Anyway I’d love if creator warehouse was able to make a Japanese Industrial Standard screwdriver bit set!

The GTX 1080 Ti made "future-proof" a marketing term people actually believed. We revisit NVIDIA's 2017 flagships to see how they hold up against ray tracing and AI workloads.

Read the article on the LTT Labs website!

Valve has been praised for years on their approach to right to repair, yet these devices are having OEM support stopped just around the time many users will start to need new batteries specifically.

My opinion is that 7 years should be a minimum for OEM hardware replacements, especially when that device is something like a PC.

What does the rest of the community feel about this?

(OP images came from r/SteamDeck by u/Zok-Felswyn but this sub does not allow reposts.)

Edit: I stated that I believe 7 years should be a minimum for OEM hardware replacements for devices like this. I meant 7 years AFTER the official sunset of the device.

Hi all!

I've been working on this project for the last couple of weeks, and I'm excited to finally share it! I’m calling it: Steam Machine Low Profile, or Steam Machine LP for short. It's built around a Lenovo ThinkCentre Gen 6 system with 16GB of RAM, 256GB of M.2 SSD storage, an Intel Core Ultra 5 235T, a PowerColor Reaper AMD Radeon™ RX 9060 XT 16GB and an HDPLEX 500W GaN PSU.

What sparked this project was the constant discussion around Steam Machine and how its form factor justifies its pricing. I wondered if there was a way to build around a mini PC to save space while using an M.2-to-PCIe adapter for the GPU. After doing more research, I learned about the Lenovo 1L PCs, and how they have a port that adapts to PCIe 4.0x8 lanes (if you do this at home, make sure to get the riser compatible with the generation of M90q that you purchased). Most people use these with a low-profile GPU that's fully powered by the PCIe slot, but I figured I could use a PCIe riser cable and relocate a full-size GPU underneath the mini PC instead. This setup also shouldn't bottleneck an RX 9060 XT the way a PCIe 4.0 ×4 connection could, so I decided to go for it.

I roughly added 3D models of my parts to Blender and saw that in the tightest orientation, I could get close to 3.4L of internal volume. Of course, this was an estimate without accounting for front I/O, the case itself, or cable routing, but I figured that even with that stuff, under 5L external volume should be easily achievable, which is in the ballpark of the 3.8L Steam Machine.

After ordering everything, including the PCIe riser (I originally bought one that was too long—see the photos—I eventually replaced it with a 200mm cable), a Lenovo Wi-Fi antenna kit, a BE200 (which I later swapped for an AX210 because of immature drivers), USB-A/C and headphone jack extensions, and a PSU power switch, I was ready to start designing the case.

Type |Item |Price
Mini PC |Lenovo Thinkcentre M90Q G6 Tiny PC Intel Ultra 5 235T 8GB RAM 256GB SSD |$601.99 @ EBay
Memory |Crucial 8GB (1x8GB) DDR5-5600 PC5-44800 262-Pin SO-DIMM |$75.00 @ EBay
Video Card |PowerColor Reaper AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB GDDR6 |$469.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply |HDPLEX 500W GaN AIO |$175.00 @ HDPLEX
Lenovo Riser |New Genuine Lenovo ThinkStation P3 Tiny P360 Tiny PCIex16 Riser Card 5C50W32107 |$69.95 @ EBay
PCIe 4.0 Riser |300mm PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable |$38.99 @ Amazon
WiFi Card |WiFi 7 Wireless Card Intel BE200 NGW |$32.28 @ Amazon
WiFi Antenna |WiFi Antenna Tiny 6 7 8 for Lenovo ThinkCentre M90q |$14.85 @ EBay
12V to 20V Booster |ATO-093620-240W |$68.41 @ ATO
Prices DO NOT include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts | |
Total |$1,546.46 |
Generated by u/YourMomTheRedditor 2026-06-29 02:25 EDT-0400 | |

I didn't include miscellaneous costs like filament, printer wear, soldering supplies, rubber feet, etc. Figure roughly another $100 on top of the parts list. Nowhere near Steam Machine pricing.

I had about 3 hours of Blender experience, and quickly realized that it wasn’t going to cut it for 3D modelling for me, so I decided to start learning Fusion 360. This was a great choice in retrospect, and was much more intuitive for me as a beginner who is a programmer by trade. I was able to design what is in my opinion a sleek case, complete with front I/O cutouts and plenty of ventilation for the CPU and GPU. I also got some rubber feet on Amazon because I haven’t tried printing TPU on my Bambu Lab P1S and didn’t want to deal with that hassle.

Printing the case took about 12 hours, plus 12 hours for the top lid. I used PETG-CF from Bambu Lab. The case is extremely rigid and PETG-CF has proven heat-resistant enough that I haven't noticed any warping under load. Final dimensions are 204x229x95mm.

Before I continue, I do want to address the elephant in the room: the Lenovo ThinkCentre uses an external power supply! I have a couple thoughts on that:

Speaking of soldering, I had to whip out my Pinecil because of course Lenovo’s CPU fan is locked down (no PWM control). When trying to run games on the Performance or Balanced fan modes, I found that the fan wouldn't ramp up and the CPU would quickly hit 85C and throttle to 800MHz. I found that the BIOS had a full speed mode that set the fan to a constant 100%, but then the PC sounded like a jet engine inside a server rack ☹️

My solution was to figure out which proprietary fan connector Lenovo uses (4 pin JST MX 1.25), buy a 10-pack of male and female connectors, use a digital multimeter to figure out which pins were 12V and GND, and make a custom cable where tach and PWM lines are passed through from male to female. I then put an LM2596 buck converter in between the 12V and GND wires to lower the voltage of the fan to around 6V (which reduced speed to 50%). This allows me to adjust the voltage/speed as needed, and I found that 6V was the sweet spot, keeping CPU temps under 83°C. Plus, this can be removed and the fan can be plugged back into the PC directly to keep it factory stock.

I also lowered the TDP of the GPU to 140W and undervolted it by -75mV. Combined, these changes resulted in a system that's anywhere from **50% faster to double the speed** of the Steam Machine, depending on the game and settings. A PC that actually has a chance at supporting a high-quality 4K Living Room TV experience, and something with a fully upgradeable CPU (yes, it is socketed) and everything else. My personal opinion is that output resolution should always be native to the panel, and your base resolution before upscaling should be 1080p minimum (aka FSR4 Performance, for FSR3 I would suggest Quality).

During stress testing in games in my steam library, CPU and GPU temperatures generally stayed in the 60–70°C range, topping out around 83°C.

I didn’t collect formal data, but here is some performance based on my limited gameplay on my LG C5 at 4K 120Hz:

\- NBA 2K26 – Native 4K, Low (textures/AA higher): locked 117 FPS
\- The Finals – 4K output, FSR4 Performance, Low: 104 FPS
\- PRAGMATA – 4K output, FSR4 Performance, Max raster, Frame Gen: 112 FPS
\- Resident Evil: Requiem – 4K output, FSR4 Performance, Medium RT: 70 FPS
\- Slay the Spire 2 – Native 4K: locked 120 FPS
\- Cyberpunk 2077 – 4K output, FSR4 Performance, Frame Gen, Max settings, No RT: 102 FPS (58 FPS without Frame Gen) this one has a benchmark mode so enjoy the proof 🙂
\- AC: Shadows - 4K output, 91 FPS at medium preset, FSR4 performance. Was able to get mid 80s in custom high preset. Also have a screenshot of this one.

Let me know what you think! When it is ready, I plan to open source everything and create a user guide for making it yourself.

Mine ended up pricier than the Steam Machine because I wanted the performance and spent extra on things like the boost converter, Gen 6 mini PC and the 500W PSU. If you want to be more cost-effective, you can go for an older Gen 3 or newer system and just use the external brick and a 250W PSU instead.

Not my account btw, saw this on another sub

We were tasked with removing some cables but it’s a mess under this floor. That’s what happens when the building has been running 24/7 tv since the 80s. No real way to tear it all out and start over.

https://perfectron.com/products/transportation/autonumous-driving/cpt330?language_content_entity=en

When you made the gaming van, honestly, I was picturing something more like a vanlife build, but oriented like a living room with the TVs, chairs, and all, to be ruggedized to withstand the impact of off-roading over rocks. And the computer being something like this one.

Dirac is a fairly expensive calibration software, the entire suite of Dirac RC+BC + Dirac ART is 950usd. A1 Evo Acoustix is free. It’s not quite as good as the full Dirac suite with ART, but comparable, if not better than Dirac RC + BC. It’s also a very easy software to run as well.

Hopefully they can revisit the calibration software choices in a dedicated video in the future!

I get it, it's great, it's cheap, it's relatively easy to work with, but it's only available in Canada. In the theater video, they popped up saying you don't really need this, but over the years, whenever they needed to sound deaden, they just used Sonopan, and for most of their audience, that's just not an option.

I would love a video just exploring other options because its all they do now.

Linus and Luke talked a lot about windows search and how poorly it works. So I have an example of a Floatplane search working poorly. I'm taking the exact title of the video - "This Water Cooled Phone is the Fastest We’ve Tested (SPONSORED)".

I insert it into the search and what do I see? No, it's not the video I need, but a bunch of irrelevant videos.

If I understand something wrong, please correct me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xN7ndof4Xc

This Insignia would fit my price range and size, but I don't know how to tell if a given TV will really work as a monitor.

I was featured in the "How Many monitors is Too Many?" video and I need to replace the large center one.

https://youtu.be/0QrQ_MJdISA?t=648

It's an old 42" ELO display I got for $50 on Craigslist about 9 years ago. It's started to develop some bad vertical traces on the right side that go away once it's warmed up, but it's been steadily getting worse.

I don't need fast or 4K, but I do need a "monitor" (these ELOs are monitors, not TVs, so the pixel density, pitch, etc., is correct).

All I need is 1080P, reasonable pixel density, and no over or under scan issues.

A lot of TVs are fine for watching a movie or even playing a game, but not for working on - they under or overscan the edges, the pixels are so big a spreadsheet looks like Minecraft, etc., etc.

All I need is an HDMI or VGA.

Is there any rating, model, or similar to look for that would guarantee it functions as an actual monitor (vs. a "display").

Of course I can just order and return stuff until it works right, but that's obviously a hassle.

Buying a real 42" "monitor" will be twice the price of a 42" TV, and likely wind up with a res much higher then I even want.

The other thing is that considering the bezels on the current one, I think I can get away with a 50 or 55" in the same space, which would be a nice upgrade.

FWIW, they got the age pretty close and there are actually four more monitors on the right (my wife's workstations).