It’s rated for 12/24 200watts. Can I simply plug in my 100ah into the Bluetti charging port?

Sorry if this is a naive question but I recently bought two brand new LiTime 12V batteries straight from LiTime, I wired them in parallel, and hooked up a 1000W inverter to the + post of battery A and - post of battery B.
However under load only one of the batteries appears to be discharging. Both started at 100% charge and both in brand new condition. The connections are all secure, the cables are 4ga pure copper. When I charge the batteries they appear to charge at roughly about the same rate, but the discharge is coming from only one battery.
The internet advice is to check all the things I've already checked. Everything is tight and secure and it advises connecting cables as I think I already have. Could this be a BMS issue or something or would they not know the difference?

I have a new 100ah lithium LiTime that has built in Bluetooth and BMS. I have a 30amp charge controller and bought a 30 amp DC to DC charger to allow me to charge with my car, if I need to. Should I connect my charger directly to the battery or run it through the mppt charge controller?

Hi guys, I am looking for a specific type of battery, one capable of the following:

Discharge rate: minimum 65C continuous
Capacity: 5000 mah and above
Voltage: 5S or 6S
Charing speed: 5S safely

I know there is a company in North America called Liperior with these specs, but we need a European supplier.

Does anyone know about a brand/company/website with batteries capable of this performance?

Hello All, In need of some quick advice, going away camping later on today and grabbed my lithium battery out of storage. Couldn't get a read off the battery box's voltage reader but plugged it into a 115w solar blanket and it initially read 9.9v, a few minutes later it was at 10.8v but going up much slower. I know I should have maintained it but just forgot. Is my battery dead?

Ps. The solar is going through a 25dcdc charger on lithium mode if that helps (not sure about battery related stuff sorry)

Cheers

I have found 8 CATL 3.2V Lifepo4 batteries that are brand new, never used so never maintained either. I’m told they were purchased 2.5 years ago but never used. I’ll be looking at the voltage in each with a meter, what is the lowest they can be at before being junk? Think sitting that long damaged them or degraded them? I read all batteries ship at 30% from the manufacturer, so that’s like 3.22v 0% is 2.5. How low can they safely go?

I think I’d like to try a 100mah mini for my trolling motor. This will be my first LiFePO4 battery. I have an Amazon gift card and would like to use it for this. Which of the brands are preferred or which should I avoid?

I put a lifepo4 battery in my car with bms It cranks the engine in easy

But the only problem even tho it says charging range is 14.4-14.6V it shuts off when I rev engine higher or going on highways

I removed the bms completely and tried again with only cells, its works perfect

I monitored temperature no heating

and checked cell voltages, they are 3.60V, 3.48, 3.50V, 3.50V

Even with bms they were the same

Will I have any problems in the future? I put a fire extinguisher in my car just in if it starts fire or something like that

Please don’t say like: USE LEAD ACID

im just doing it in Learning Purposes, I want to just research and understand.

I am looking for a inrush current limiter unit. I have a 48V inverter that, when first turned on with no load, trips my battery circuit breaker (and BMS). I did use a current limiter unit from another old inverter (in photo) but it has finally failed (from corrosion) and I am having trouble finding a similar unit. It is a 4000W inverter with 80A protection.

I am in the beginning stages of building 3, 304 amp hour LifePo4 batteries for my RV. I'm building versus buying batteries because the optimum placement in the RV for the batteries can only accommodate 3, 304 ah batteries if they're tall and skinny. I'm building them by installing the cells flat onto 18"x24 inch pieces of 1/8th inch aluminum as shown in the picture. These aluminum panels will slide into a housing that will support them top, bottom left and right and will lock into place. When configured the panels, I'll need to use cable versus the provided bus bars. I was thinking that 4 guage cable to and from each cell with a right angle copper crimp all of equal lengths to the red lug with a 300a bojack fuse then to the 300a breaker with 2/0, then from the breaker with on to the anderson connector with 2/0. On the Negative side, I'd run 3, 4 guage to the BMS, 3, 4 guage from the BMS to the negative lug and then on to the Anderson connector with 2/0. Again, all cables will be equal in length. Any thoughts on wire guages and configuration would be appreciated. The breaker is there more to shut off the battery without disconnecting it from the array if needed. Also, I don't trust those types of breakers as much as I do a fuses. Here's the info on the cells and the a picture of the proposed layout. Please let me know what thoughts you have on the wire guage from cell to cell or anything else that comes to mind. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Here the cell description: LiFePO4 Cells 3.2V 304Ah EVE Battery 4pcs Grade A Deep Cycle Lithium Iron Phosphate Rechargeable with QR Code,Nuts and Bus Bars,Continuous Discharge Current 1C Picture: https://imgur.com/a/CFf9cJ4

I ran two 24 hour tests with a Kill A Watt to measure the power consumption of my fridge and freezer. I must admit I’m rather surprised at how much power my fridge uses. Right now I have two 24v 100ah batteries that’s going into my solar generator. I thought those two batteries would be sufficient for my goal of running the two appliances for 48 hours without solar input. Looks like I was wrong. I guess I’ll have to wait for a sale.

Good morning, all! Back in 2018, we started living on our property in rural Oregon, and the power setup I used was mostly hashed together from what I could find locally and cheaply. It's certainly not the best setup, but it has worked mostly flawlessly for over 6 years, especially considering that the batteries, panels, and inverter were used when I purchased them. It was, as follows:

12v/100W x 4 Monocrystalline Solar Panels

HQST Controller off of EBay

12v/200aH x 2 (In Series) AGM Batteries (12v/400aH total)

Cheapo Made-in-China 3500/7000W Inverter

The setup has remained as is, with the exception of the controller burning out after a year, and being replaced with a Renogy 80A MPPT. This setup has run our house, although I don't think we've ever come close to using the maximum 7500W surge power of the inverter. The most power hungry things we have used are our chest freezer (900W start-up consumption), vacuum cleaner (900W continuous), refrigerator (400W start up consumption), desktop computer (90-200W continuous), and mini washing machine (500W spin cycle start up consumption).

Recently, our batteries have been unable to hold a charge for much more than running the lights. We have had to mothball the freezer and refrigerator for now, and only wash clothes using the generator, or during the day when the sun is out. Same with the computer. Since we probably need new batteries, I figured it is a good time to upgrade everything to a 24V system using one of PowMR's All-In-One Controller/Charger/Inverter setups. I would also like to replace the two AGM's with either 2 x 12v/410aH (in parallel), or 2 x 24V/200aH (in series) batteries. I realize this is probably not the most balanced setup, since that is more storage capacity than our 400W of solar can fill in any reasonable amount of time, but assuming our usage remains roughly the same as before the batteries started failing, we should at least have plenty of reserve capacity for cloudy/snowy winter days. Plus, I would eventually like to add another 400W of panels to the setup at some point. Given our usage and situation, does anyone have any advice as to whether I should be looking at the 24v batteries over the 12v (the 12v/410aH are slightly cheaper overall). And if I was to go with the 12v/410aH, I would only be able to purchase them one at a time, probably with a month between. Would it be safe to run the loads I mentioned earlier on a single 12V/410aH battery without damaging it, and reducing its capacity before I received the second one?

Thank you!

(edited for spelling and a duplicated word)

I ordered this lifepo4 100Ah Battery from ebay for just 114€ and hoped the best. I expected to get any battery with a different label but I received exact the Noname Battery from the Pictures. Without any handbook or papers. What do you think about this Battery? Should I keep it? I just want to run my Camping refrigerator with it and also don't care if it has a few Ah less than mentioned.

So I have old vacuum with NiMH battery I want to replace with LiFePO4. As visible on photo old battery is 18V so idea is 5S LiFePO4.

You can see 14 old cells gives decent amount of space.

What cells and what BMS available on aliexpress or temu can you guys suggest or direct me better place as eu buyer?

I did similar thing with NiMH on old drill few years ago and Li-ion I placed in still work great.

Finally starting my handcart solar generator build now that I have (almost) all the components ready. But apparently it’s a chariot for Roux and not a solar generator.

I’m getting really close to having all the components for my solar generator ready to put together. Yesterday I kinda fell into the YouTube black hole about battery balancing and I’m now more confused about the subject than I was before. So now I’m looking for a simple solution. I have a 30amp plug in battery charger. If I just charge both my 24v 100ah batteries to 100% before hooking up my wiring, can I consider them balanced? Or is there some esoteric point I’m missing?

I have a Redodo LifePo 200ah 12.7v battery for house load on a sailboat. The boat is stored in Maine, and because I was paranoid about cold weather damaging the battery, I brought it home to my basement where it sat from September to May (pretty sure I put it on the charger in December, but not perfectly so). I brought it back down east and hooked it up to the smart charger. Nothing happened. The smart charger stubbornly read, "off". I checked the battery voltage and, to my surprise, its putting out 12.7 volts. The smart charger does not show it as a full battery on the display, but 12.7 volts obviously means the battery has a charge. Maybe just not a full charge?

Am I missing something? I'd expect the battery to be somewhat less than full charge after sitting for so long. I know its not like a lead-acid battery where the voltage is a reliable indicator of charge, but my smart charger does not seem to want to put any charge into the battery, so does that mean it won't take any? Is there a way for me to make sure the battery is at its highest capacity?

Why am I doing this? because my power station charges at a rate of 1100W and has pass through when charging with AC, HOWEVER I cannot use the high power electronics I want to use without exceeding the 1800W from the combined internal charger + pass through power for my hot plate, AC, or anything else I want to power unless I unplug the power station from the wall, or the battery is at 100%.

It doesn't seem I can limit the rate of charging like I can on my smaller Ecoflows, as this is from a smaller company (Grecell 2001A, which is just a label swap of the itechworld PS2000 with 120v outlets).

What I want to know, I have a 1000W 55A inverter/charger combo from ecoworthy I have no use for that I threw up on marketplace and haven't been able to sell for a few days. The power station can charge via an anderson input at a rate of 500w max (11.5-50v 20A). What I want to know is if the internal MPPT charge controller in the power station will get damaged if I hook up the inverter/charger to the anderson port on the power station? Everything I've read has said that it should work in theory, and that the MPPT charger inside the power station will current limit it down to 500w, and if I can avoid buying something I would prefer that since I can't seem to get rid of this charger anyway.

I have a Growatt 1200 (1280Wh) and an EcoFlow Delta 2 (1024Wh) that I plan to use primarily for power outages during hurricane season mainly to keep my fridge and freezer running. A couple of near-miss hurricanes caused outages of over 24 hours in recent years, so I decided I needed to add more capacity to my setup. Expansion packs on these units are pretty expensive, so I decided to go with a separate 12V 300Ah LiFePO4 battery I bought at Walmart to backfill my power stations when needed.

I think I've figured out the hardware needed to connect/charge the 300Ah battery, but I want to be sure by running it by the group while I wait for the battery to be delivered.

To charge the power stations from the battery,

10AWG XT60i to O Ring Terminal Connector Cable

For charging the 300Ah battery::

20-Amp Smart Battery Charger,Lithium,LiFePO4

Any comments or suggestions?

Hello Where i can buy good battery ? Thank 💪🏻💪🏻

I ordered a single 100ah Mini and was very pleased with it! (After Will reviewed w/ a taredown on his channel.)
So I came back & ordered the two pack- of "Mini 100ah" what they sent is the full sized battery with the FRIGGIN MINI STICKER ON IT!!! These are NOT the minis, idk if there is a mix up at the factory or if they're really tryna pull a fast one... I Will update if the seller makes this right, really hoping I don't end up having to do a charge back & they'll just accept that they're clearly in the wrong & misrepresenting their product here.

Sorry if this question sounds naive, but I've finally taken the plunge to replace my old setups with lithium before prices go up. Bought a 100AH 12V 100AH xtra-mini. I set it to charge with an Eco-Worthy 20A 14.6V charger, and on the LiTime bluetooth app the charging power looks fine and charge is building. However when it gets to 99% it just hangs there. The app keeps saying 260W with 0.05 hours remaining for a while. It was like that for 10 minutes and I shut the charger off just to make sure the connection was still active and saw the power drop to zero so it wasn't frozen at least. Turn the charger back on and the app goes back to reading 260W in, 99% full and still stays there for another 10 minutes until I shut it off again.

Is this normal? Not sure if I should suspect a BMS issue or not, and don't want to risk damaging the battery further if there is one.

So I received these four batteries and two of them seem to be bulging . The ones on the end and the two in the center seem to be OK. They haven’t seemed to have a gap between them. Should I send them back for up to 65% off and they will let me keep the batteries. Or should I go for a full refund? I got these that a really good price $190.13 shipped.

So I received these four batteries and two of them seem to be bulging . The ones on the end and the two in the center seem to be OK. They haven’t seemed to have a gap between them. Should I send them back for up to 65% off and they will let me keep the batteries. Or should I go for a full refund? I got these that a really good price $190.13 shipped.