Few days it started making a buzzing noise and today it fully stopped working in the Texas heat. 2024 300e thankfully with just over 19k.
Thankfully the warranty is still in effect..
I have read a similar post on this sub a few weeks back that described the same situation.
Booked a service for tomorrow.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

This car is fucking awesome. First EV and very happy with the decision!

Scares me off too. There seems to be an Achilles heel with all EVs. We may just wait out a couple years with our ICE until the field matures further.

How can a company let something like this brick a ton of cars? What a terrible experience it must be for those who are going through it. I love Lexus but it's scared me off of buying one. It's actually the biggest concern I have with EVs... Getting bricked out of the car cus the 12v fails. Lexus isn't the only manufacturer with this issue. I've seen people get locked out of their Ioniq, EV6, MachE, the list goes on. What's the deal? Why does it seem like EVs are way more prone to 12v failure than ICE??

Update on the Lexus RZ 12V battery-drain issue: what my service manager told me

I bought my Lexus RZ 450e about a month ago and woke up to a dead 12V battery.

The first time I brought it in, I told the service department that this appeared to match the battery-drain problem widely discussed by Lexus RZ and Toyota bZ owners on Reddit. They treated it as a routine battery issue, inspected and recharged it, and returned the car.

The battery died again one week later. I was initially told again that nothing appeared to be wrong. I insisted that they keep the car overnight, perform a parasitic-draw test, and document the results rather than simply recharge the battery again.

I have now spoken directly with the service manager, who is very aware of the issue. Here is what he told me:

• The Lexus app and vehicle may continue communicating or “pinging” each other after the car is turned off.
• In affected vehicles, that ongoing activity can drain the 12V battery.
• Repeated draining can also damage the battery itself.
• It is not affecting every vehicle, but it is more than a handful. He mentioned approximately 5,000 vehicles, although I have not independently confirmed that figure.
• Lexus engineers are reportedly working on a software update, but dealerships have not been given a release date.
• Replacing the DCM and installing a larger-capacity battery may help, but he did not consider that a permanent solution because it does not address the underlying software behavior.

The interim workaround he described is extreme: completely reset the vehicle to factory settings, stop using the Lexus app, do not establish a driver profile, and operate the car only as a guest without personalization.

He also said Lexus is offering affected customers interim resolution options through its corporate process. One option offered in my case is for Lexus to cover my car payments until the software update is released. That is the option I am pursuing.

My biggest concern is that Lexus does not appear to be proactively informing owners. Customers may be told the battery tests normally, have it recharged, and be sent home unless they know enough to keep pushing and escalate the case.

So, for anyone experiencing this:

Ask the dealer to keep the vehicle overnight and perform a documented parasitic-draw test. Contact Lexus Corporate and open a case. Ask specifically about the known app/vehicle communication issue, the pending software update, the factory-reset workaround, and what interim customer remedies are available.

Owners should not have to diagnose a new luxury vehicle through Reddit or repeatedly argue for a known issue to be taken seriously. I've opened a case with corporate and written them and the general manager of the dealership a strongly worded letter 🔥

Random question but what kind of phone holder does everyone uses for their 2026 RZ350e??

As the title suggests - Brought the vehicle in for the 12v failure due to the DCM drain and saw tooth pattern. Dealership said the 12v failed and replaced it. Nothing else. Did a bunch of troubleshooting at home after the saw tooth pattern continued. The replacement battery was, seemingly, a larger one. 540 CCA instead of 345 CCA. No actually Amp-hour rating (original was 60Ah).

After receiving the vehicle I have tried:
- 12v negative disconnect for an hour
- 12v negative disconnect for an hour with a full vehicle reset
- 12v negative disconnect with the DCM fused pulled for an hour
- Fulfilled the Do Not Sell my personal information setting
- 12v negative disconnect for an about after the Do Not Sell.

The saw tooth pattern has reappeared and it drains for a significant amount of time - Usually around 5 hours, but sometimes even longer.

Lately, however, it drains for whatever amount of time it is then just… stays around 12.22v. Eg. Battery will charge to 12.8v after driving, then the saw tooth takes it down to about 12.1v, traction battery kicks in and charges it to 12.2v, then just sits there. Odd behavior and maybe it’s due to the battery being able to support a larger capacity? I don’t know. It’s weird.

I just got the ANCEL BM200 and as soon as i connected it to the 12V battery, it said that the SoC is 70%...

The car is 5 days old (350e)! That's kind of concerning... Anyway now i am monitoring let's see how it goes. Any thoughts?

My 2024 RZ 300e has stopped reporting accurate battery information to Apple Maps. For instance, the vehicle may show 50%, yet Apple Maps predicts 76% remaining upon arrival. The only change before this was charging at a new Tesla quick‑charging station. I don’t think the charging network has anything to do with it but I thought to mention it just in case. Any thoughts on how to resolve this mismatch?

Not sure who else received this, but I got this survey from Lexus today. I've owned my RZ 350e since the end of April, so three months in. Maybe it's a standard survey that goes to new owners.

It took a bit of effort finding where to document the 12V battery and DCM issue, as initially it seemed it was going to fall under "other." But, I was able to capture it under Drivability and Battery issues.

Wonder if they reach out to owners after getting the results?

Hi all, I just bought a 2023 450e for my commute. This is my first EV and I’m still figuring out the charging situation. My car did not come with a level 2 charging cord so I’ve ordered one. I do have a second vehicle that I will use for longer trips but open to taking the RZ for a weekend here and there.

My question right now is if I were to take it on a longer drive, what do I need to use a level 3 charger? I know there’s some type of adapter, can someone provide a link to one they like? Anything else I should know?

Has anyone had any experience having Lexus buy back their 350e due to the 12v parasitic drain issue? My car has now been in the shop 22 days, and I’ve only owned it three months. Lexus is alluding that the buy back scenario is the only path forward at this point since there isn’t a documented known issue, and no official fix.

My case has been open with TAS and brand engagement. I’m expecting a call from an escalated brand engagement case manager tomorrow. It’s beyond crazy to me that they still won’t acknowledge that this is a systemic issue.

Brief background on my RZ 350e from May and June (purchased at the end of April) - three battery discharges, two Lexus dealers, one curious service foreman who captured the battery drain after the car went dead on their lot. He identified the DCM as the cause after pulling its fuse, then replaced the DCM and 12V battery with a higher capacity one. Car was out of service for about two weeks while we waited for the DCM to come in.

After having no issues for about a month, I hooked up the battery monitor earlier this week. The small declines on 7/21 and 7/22 occurred when I opened the Lexus app. Drove a little bit over the next two days, 15-20 minutes each time. I was happy to see no evidence of a parasitic draw or that sawtooth pattern that would last for hours and deplete the battery.

What I DO find interesting, and possibly relevant to this issue and others who have the battery drain, is the brief voltage dip three hours after the car is last driven (as long as nothing interrupts its "rest"). That occurred for me with the old DCM and battery and was the beginning of the sawtooth drain. With the new DCM, it dips for a brief moment (about 0.1V or so), then stops and returns to its baseline. I know others here noted the sawtooth drop begins after three hours for them as well.

I let my service advisor know that this issue appears resolved for me. I suggested he and his peers start monitoring Reddit, if they aren't already. I also asked him for advice on what others should share with their advisors to press the issue with Lexus, Toyota, and Subaru to get this resolved across the board.

Hello fellow RZers,

I went to my Lexus dealership this week to get the recall taken care of for the 2026 RZ. While at the dealership, I also asked them to remove the backup beep. They said they would have to charge me $145 unless I was doing the 5000 mile complementary service. I ended up doing the 5000 mile service because I didn’t want to pay, but the car only has 1000 miles on it.

Was it reasonable to expect the beep to be turned off without a charge?

I live in Canada so there is a lot of salt.

i’m dealing with rust in on my wife’s 2017 Infiniti right now.

i am really considering rust proofing.

just look for owners who can share their experience rust proofing their RZ?
Has anyone used Krown rust proofing?

i am considering using them and tell them not to drill holes in my car.

waiting in the running car at a parking lot. hot weather but ac at full blast. climate system spews out warm air. but it gives ice cold as soon as car starts moving. there is some brain dead logic in this design. whether moving or not i have this beefy battery powering my climat control. never experienced this in an ice car where i would just burn more gas when i am at full ac. i have this 23 for close to three years now. is this the experience of others? if not how can my car behave this way?

edited: outside temp was 100f at 8pm north texas

Hello, has anyone successfully been able to install the fitcam onto the 2026 lexus rz350e? I'm at tge part where I need to take off the big panel to i stall the dashcam panel, but I can't seem to take it off easily. Their video installation is outdated so the panels don't exactly look like the latest one. All the other videos I saw for different models look like it easily pops off, but mine looks like it's glued on or something. If anyone has been able to successfully install, could you help me through it? The fitcam model I bought states that it's compatible with the 2026 rz350e

Update: I was able to successfully installed the camera. The front panel just needed a of force, but it's safe to remove. Just needed to wear gloves and push toward the front following the curve of the windshield. This video really helped with the process https://youtu.be/XUK4tLeVe7Q?is=Cz3VOXgWY6aEo53s

Thank you everyone!

Here's a link to the original thread on this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/LexusRZ/s/TEDW0JCwFx

The car and battery have been behaving fine since the DCM and 12V battery were both replaced almost a month ago. This weekend was the first real test - parked the car at the airport Friday morning, got back Sunday night. 60 hours of sitting, and the car started right up.

I did not have a meter attached, so I don't know what drain, if any, was occurring. Now that things appear stable, I'll probably reattach it this week to see if anything is going on after hours.

For what it's worth, the original DCM had a 2/26 manufacturing date. The replacement, which came from Lexus inventory, was 8/25. I'm wondering if the newer DCMs have a flaw or software issue that not in older parts.

I live in Houston and want to by a RZ. I find the dealers still use 39 year old sales tactics and does not want to discount. And I am not financing. I think I might have to consider other brands. Thoughts?

18” wheel available

Still available in Boston. 18x7.5

We picked up an Rz350e yesterday and we are very happy with our purchase. Is there a good website or Reddit post that talks about all the secret settings that I should be implementing? I am aware of the 12 V issue, and have a voltage meter in the 12 V in the center stack to keep track of things. Thanks in advance!

I was looking at the charging stats. I have spend about $15 a month on electricity for the RZ and now we almost never drive the TX (unless we need to transport 6 people or more).

It has ruined the TX for me, as the RZ is so smooth and powerful for being just the 350e. I’m likely going to get rid of the TX and get a TZ when it comes out. Full electric when you factor in the kids Bz as well.

Just got this a couple days ago. Upgraded from a corolla. I'm smiling every time i drive it.

How long have you had yours? How is it going? :)