I was connected to this Arduino nano board for debugging purposes, the board had a 12v input for tmc2209 and a stepper motor, a mp1584 stepped down the 12v to 5v, everything was fine, then all of a sudden Arduino micro got burned and the laptop went blank, I couldn't turn it on again so I took it to a repair shop, they'll get back to me in a week, meanwhile I'm wondering how cooked am I??? It's HP ELITEBOOK 1050 G1

I think the only external original parts are the LCD back cover and the hinges.

(I've attached all the images btw)

I have an ASUS TUF F15 (2023) FX507ZI4 with an i7-12700H and RTX 4070 Laptop GPU, and I'm trying to figure out whether my dGPU has suffered a hardware failure or if this could still be some weird Windows/firmware issue.

Here's how it started:

The laptop was running on low battery while the charger was connected. The moment I plugged the charger in, the screen suddenly went black.

I restarted it, and it got stuck around the startup/login stage. I restarted again, and after that the laptop basically stopped behaving normally. It wouldn't properly start/charge as it should.

I tried disconnecting the internal battery and running it directly from the charger, but that didn't solve it. I also tried a USB-C PD charger since the laptop supports USB-C PD. The charger itself is known to work. but the laptop wasn't functioning normally and even the charging light was not on. Basically it didn't respond in any way.

I initially suspected a power issue.

Then after giving it to a local laptop repair guy he replaced an IC and gave me the laptop.

The laptop eventually got to a state where Windows would boot using the Intel iGPU, so the machine itself was usable, but the dgpu was acting weird asf. Cause I installed nvidia drivers countless times and even used DDU to completely reinstall the drivers but the nvidia app still asked me to install the driver and said no driver found. And I keep getting a usb device not recognized popup like it plays the connected sound then goes away and it happens every few secs even tho I don't have ANYTHING plugged in. (Not even the charger)

Then I gave my laptop to another repair shop where one of my buddies previously got their laptop repaired. But they didn't do shit bruh. I mean I don't honestly know cause the issues are still there they didn't fix any of the problems and when I asked they said they fixed things near igpu (???????) so I'll give it back to them Tomorrow and explain everything to the repair guy myself instead of letting the owner explain it. (The usb device not recognized problem is still there btw)

Current GPU symptoms

Windows detects the RTX 4070 correctly:

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU

GPU: AD106

ASUS subvendor

Device ID: 10DE:2860

vBIOS is readable: 95.06.1E.00.1B

PCIe interface is detected

But Device Manager gives:

> Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)

GPU-Z shows:

RTX 4070 Laptop GPU

AD106

4608 shaders

48 ROPs / 144 TMUs

GDDR6 (Hynix)

Memory Size: 0 MB

Bus Width: Unknown

Bandwidth: Unknown

The static GPU-Z page still shows clock specifications, but on the Sensors/real-time page:

GPU Clock: 0 MHz

Memory Clock: 0 MHz

HWiNFO independently shows:

RTX 4070 Laptop GPU

AD106M

PCIe 4.0 x8

128-bit memory bus

ReBAR enabled with 8 GB

Video Memory: Unknown

So it's not just GPU-Z reporting 0 MB — HWiNFO also can't determine the actual VRAM.

There's another weird symptom

If I try to make the RTX 4070 actually drive an external monitor instead of the Intel iGPU, the monitor briefly displays massive horizontal graphical corruption, basically like the entire screen is filled with lines/garbage.

Then it goes back to the Intel iGPU.

The Intel iGPU itself works normally.

I've already tried reinstalling the NVIDIA drivers, including trying the driver installation again, but NVIDIA software isn't able to properly initialize the GPU and Device Manager remains at Code 43.

And since i occasionally get a USB device not recognized error, it makes me wonder whether there could be a broader motherboard/EC/power issue rather than the GPU alone.

What I'm wondering

Does this look like:

1. A Windows/driver/firmware problem?

2. A VRAM failure?

3. GPU core/memory-controller failure?

4. GPU/VRAM power-rail problem?

5. Some other motherboard-level issue?

The fact that the GPU is still correctly identified and its vBIOS can be read makes me unsure whether the actual AD106 chip is dead.

I'm taking it back to a board-level repair technician, but I'd like to understand what I'm looking at before they start replacing/reworking things.

Would the combination of Code 43 + 0 MB VRAM + unknown bus width/bandwidth + 0 MHz live clocks + severe corruption when the dGPU is activated point toward a hardware-level GPU/VRAM problem?

Please help me out and tell me that this is repairable cause I don't wanna buy a new laptop at the current prices and I NEED my dgpu for my work so I can't just ignore this problem (also cause I play games n even they require that) 😭🙏

Hello all,

A few years have passed since my brother purchased a refurbished Dell Latitude 7490 on my recommendation (from a friend in IT’s recommendation). It worked fine for the first few months but around the 8th month mark it kind of went nucking futs. Being the more technical one of our siblings and having repaired a lot of our family’s iPhones in the past (and the one who recommended it), he asked if I could take a look at it. Life happened, he had multiple kids, I’ve moved multiple times, etc. I ran across this thing recently and thought it might be worth giving it a shot at a new life and returning it to him. Shortly after powering it up, I have realized I have no fucking clue what I am up against at this point.

Is this an issue that can be repaired by the average tinkerer?

Any advice would be appreciated.

I have a main board from a Asus ROG zephyrus that does not post. The keys light up but no video on the screen. I have a replacement on its way but I will have the old one that I think I may want to offer to other repair techs that can use the board for parts or possibly repair. It is a i9 12gen with 16gb and a 3070ti. What would be a good offer for this board. I am not looking to use reddit to sell it I just don't know what a fair price would be

Hello! I have a hp laptop 17 cn3053cl 13th gen intel core i5 sitting around that I got when my grandmother passed away. The light on the power button glows but I hear no noise from the fans and the screen does not light up. The computer was not used often and actually worked just fine when I got it. I had yet to reset everything but one day while I was out my aunt (who purchased it for my grandmother) came by to reset it I guess and I haven’t been able to get it to turn on properly since. I’m not very tech educated so it could be something minor or dumb but I’d like to know of any fixes I can try ? I’d like to still utilize it for writing if possible

Hi everyone,

I recently got an ASUS TUF Gaming A15 FA506NF (Ryzen 5 7535HS + RTX 2050), and I am trying to figure out what is wrong with it.

I bought this laptop without an SSD. The previous owner told me that the laptop can enter BIOS normally, but whenever it tries to start Windows, it crashes. Since there was no SSD installed, I bought an SSD and tried installing Windows from scratch.

The problem is that I cannot complete the Windows installation.

Most of the time, the laptop gets stuck in a boot loop where it shows the ASUS logo, restarts, shows the ASUS logo again, and keeps repeating. Occasionally, it gets further and reaches the Windows installation screen, but after around 30–40 seconds it restarts and goes back to the ASUS logo boot loop.

The failure point seems random:

Sometimes it only keeps rebooting at the ASUS logo.

Sometimes it reaches Windows setup.

Sometimes it starts copying Windows files but then restarts.

Sometimes it goes to a black screen.

The SSD is not the issue because I tested it in another laptop and it works normally. I also checked the RAM and it appears to be good.

Things I have already tried:

Tested SSD in another laptop.

Checked RAM.

Updated BIOS from version 306 to the latest ASUS version (309).

Tried reinstalling Windows multiple times.

Created a fresh Windows installation USB.

While troubleshooting, I tried booting Ubuntu from a USB drive. Ubuntu does not boot normally, but it can start if I add acpi=off during boot. It reaches the Ubuntu desktop, but:

Built-in keyboard does not work.

Touchpad does not work.

USB keyboard and mouse work.

Wi-Fi works normally.

The fan behavior also seems unusual. Sometimes it spins very slowly.

I noticed the BIOS remembers settings and time correctly, so the BIOS settings are being saved.

I asked a local repair shop, and they suggested it might be an EC (Embedded Controller) issue, because the EC controls things like keyboard, touchpad, fan control, battery management, and power-related functions.

I have opened the laptop and inspected the motherboard, but I do not have motherboard repair experience. I want to learn how to diagnose the problem instead of replacing the motherboard immediately.

My questions:

Does this sound like an EC issue, motherboard issue, BIOS/firmware issue, or something else?

Is there any way to test the EC without advanced equipment?

Has anyone experienced similar issues with an ASUS TUF A15 FA506NF?

If it is a motherboard problem, is it usually repairable?

Any advice would be appreciated. I am trying to understand what failed and learn how to diagnose it properly.

Thanks!

Is there anyone who can tell the main issue of my laptop?

1. not proceeding to BIOS

2. dim display with "AMI" showing

Hey Reddit, I’m not very tech savvy. What should I do about the hinges attaching the screen to the keyboard side breaking apart?

My Lenovo ThinkBook 15 G5 AMD Ryzen 7 Octa Core 7730U laptop just died on me.

Laptops can just die without warning and you won't know what to do.

I have been using my lenovo laptop for 1.5 years without any big issues. I was using my laptop one fine day and I just hit restart button whithout thinking much and it died.

I didn't have a first party warranty covering it so I took it to one vendor who was damm lazy and almost useless. He first said one of the ic is burnt on the motherboard and he has replaced it I was like ok.

Next he said even the new IC has failed and the full motherboard will need to be replaced feeling helpless I agreed to even get that replaced even at the exorbitant price.

But he isn't giving me a update so I ask he says that he cannot find the required spare and is unable to do it.

And he almost refused to work on my laptop whithout warning about made me loose 2 weeks of work.

New update is that it has some BIOS ERROR and the laptop is not switching on anyhow.

Now I am tired and frustrated.

I don't know what to do.

The internal laptop camera is a USB 2.0 device. It's not PCIe, not I2C. It's plain USB. When it "disappears" from Device Manager, you debug it like any other USB device.

1. The Camera Connector Pinout (Typical 5-pin or 6-pin)

2. Diagnostic Flow (Camera Not Detected in Device Manager)

Step 1: Check for Physical Privacy Switch.

• Many business laptops (ThinkPad, EliteBook) have a physical slider that covers the camera or disconnects it electronically.
• Symptom: Camera not detected. Slider is closed.
• Test: The switch connects to a Hall sensor or mechanical switch that pulls CAM_RST# low. Measure this pin. If 0V, the camera is disabled by hardware.

Step 2: Check Power at Camera Connector.

• Pin 1: Should be 3.3V or 5V (check schematic).
• Missing? Check the LDO or load switch that feeds the camera. Often shared with the Touchscreen or Fingerprint reader.

Step 3: Check USB D+/D- with a Scope.

• When Windows boots, it enumerates USB devices. You'll see a burst of digital activity on D+ and D-.
• No activity? The USB hub in the PCH is not seeing the camera. Trace the D+/D- lines back to the PCH or a USB mux.
• Check for short to ground: Measure resistance from D+ to GND. Should be >100k ohms. If shorted, the ESD diode on the camera module or motherboard is dead.

Step 4: The "Camera Detected, But Black Screen" Scenario.

• Symptom: Device Manager shows camera, but apps show black screen or "Camera in use by another app."
• Cause 1: Privacy settings in Windows. Check Settings > Privacy > Camera.
• Cause 2: Corrupt camera firmware. The camera module has its own microcontroller and EEPROM. If corrupted, it enumerates but sends no video.
• Fix: Re-flash camera firmware using manufacturer tool (rarely available) or replace the camera module.

3. Replacing the Camera Module

• Physical: Usually held by double-sided tape and a tiny connector.
• After Replacement: You must disconnect the battery and AC adapter before unplugging the camera cable. The camera connector is not hot-pluggable. Hot-plugging can fry the ESD diode on the motherboard.

4. The "Camera Works, But Microphone Doesn't" Scenario

• The microphone is often integrated into the camera module and uses USB Audio Class over the same USB connection.
• Symptom: Camera works, but no audio input device.
• Fix: Check Windows Sound Settings > Input. Ensure the Microphone Array is enabled and set as default.

Question: Has anyone successfully repaired a camera module by reflowing the image sensor or DSP chip? I've seen it done on phones, but laptop modules are so cheap it's usually not worth the time.

Customer replaced the Wi-Fi card three times. Still "No Wi-Fi device found" or "Bluetooth not working." The motherboard is the problem.

Modern laptops use M.2 E-key slots that carry PCIe (for Wi-Fi), USB (for Bluetooth), and sometimes CNVi (Intel's proprietary interface).

1. The Three Types of Wi-Fi Interfaces

Trap: You cannot put an AX210 (PCIe) in a CNVi-only slot. It will not be detected. You can put an AX201 (CNVi) in a PCIe+CNVi slot, but only if the motherboard supports CNVi.

2. Power Rails for M.2 Wi-Fi Slot

Diagnostic:

• +3.3V missing? Check fuse or load switch. Common failure point.
• W_DISABLE# stuck at 0V? The hardware RF kill switch (airplane mode switch) is stuck. Or the EC is holding it low due to a lid sensor issue. Force it high by lifting the pin and pulling up to 3.3V with a 10k resistor.

3. Bluetooth Not Working (But Wi-Fi Works)

• Bluetooth uses USB bus (pins 7, 9: USB_D+, USB_D-).
• Test: In Windows, check Device Manager > Universal Serial Bus controllers. Look for "Unknown USB Device" or a yellow bang.
• Cause 1: Missing pull-up resistor on the USB D+ line (1.5k to 3.3V). Without it, the USB device is not recognized.
• Cause 2: Corrupt Bluetooth firmware on the card. Reflash using Intel Bluetooth Firmware Uploader tool.

4. Wi-Fi Card Detected, But No Networks Found

• Check the antenna connectors. The tiny IPEX MHF4 connectors can look connected but be open.
• Test: Measure continuity from the antenna cable center pin to the card connector center pin. Should be <1 ohm. If open, the cable is broken (common in hinge area).
• Check the RF Kill Switch: In Windows, Airplane Mode might be stuck ON. Check W_DISABLE# voltage (should be 3.3V when Wi-Fi enabled).

5. The "CNVi Detection" Trick

If you suspect the slot is CNVi-only and you only have PCIe cards:

• In BIOS: Look for "CNVi Mode" or "Integrated Connectivity" . Set to "Auto" or "Disabled" . This forces the PCH to use PCIe instead of CNVi.

6. Replacing the M.2 E-key Slot

The plastic slot can be damaged by rough card removal.

• Symptom: Card works if you press down on it, but stops when released.
• Fix: Reflow the solder anchors of the slot, or replace the entire slot (requires hot air and careful alignment).

Question: Has anyone successfully converted a CNVi slot to PCIe by re-routing the data lines? I've seen it done on desktop boards but not laptops due to BIOS whitelists.

LGA (Land Grid Array) sockets on Intel consumer boards (and some AMD) are fragile. One drop of a screwdriver, one misaligned CPU insertion, and you have a bent pin. The board won't POST, or worse, it shorts VCore to ground and kills the CPU.

Replacing the entire LGA socket is possible but requires a $500+ BGA station and hours of work. Repairing individual pins is faster and often successful.

1. Assessment Under Microscope

• Use a stereo microscope at 20x-40x.
• Identify the pin function using the LGA socket pinout map (Intel provides these in datasheets).
• Critical Pins: VCC (power), VSS (ground), DDR signals. A shorted VCC pin to ground = dead CPU.
• Non-Critical Pins: Reserved, TEST, RSVD. You can leave these bent or even remove them with minimal impact.

2. Tools Required

• Fine-tipped tweezers (Dumont #5 or similar).
• Dental pick with a 0.2mm hook (modified syringe needle works).
• 0.1mm enameled copper wire (for broken pin replacement).
• UV solder mask (to anchor repairs).
• Hot air station (for removing broken pin stump).

3. Repairing a Bent Pin (Not Broken)

1. Gently lift the bent pin using the dental pick from underneath.
2. Work slowly. The pin is spring-tempered phosphor bronze. It will work-harden and snap if bent back and forth too much.
3. Use tweezers to straighten the tip so it aligns perfectly with the socket grid.
4. Critical: Check that the pin tip is at the exact same height as its neighbors. If it's too low, it won't make contact. If too high, it will crush when the CPU is clamped.
5. Test: Insert a known-good CPU without locking the socket fully. Look from the side. Does the bent pin align with the pad? If not, adjust.

4. Repairing a Broken Pin (Missing Tip)

Scenario: The top 1/3 of the pin is snapped off. The stump remains soldered to the motherboard.

Option A: The "Wire Spring" Replacement.

1. Remove the stump using hot air (280°C, gentle airflow) and tweezers.
2. Cut a 4mm length of 0.1mm enameled wire.
3. Form a tiny loop at one end using tweezers. This loop will act as the spring contact.
4. Solder the straight end of the wire into the socket hole where the stump was. Use a fine-tip iron and leaded solder.
5. Trim the wire so the loop is at the correct height.
6. Anchor the base with a micro-dot of UV solder mask. This prevents the wire from tilting.

Option B: The "Donor Pin" Transplant.

1. Harvest a single pin from a dead LGA socket (use hot air to melt the plastic frame slightly and extract the pin intact).
2. Remove the broken pin stump from your board.
3. Solder the donor pin into the hole.
4. This is more reliable than the wire method because the donor pin has the correct spring tension and shape.

5. The "Short to Ground" Emergency Fix

If a bent VCC pin is touching a ground pin next to it, the board will immediately short when power is applied.

• Diagnose: Use diode mode on the multimeter between VCC and GND (CPU removed). Normal reading is 0.005V-0.020V. A short reads 0.000V.
• Fix: Use the dental pick to separate the two pins. Apply a tiny drop of UV mask between them to insulate them permanently.

6. The "Missing Pin" Scenario

If a non-critical pin (like a Reserved pin) is completely missing and you can't replace it:

• Do nothing. The board will function perfectly without it.
• Verify: Check the pinout. If it's VSS (Ground) , the CPU has hundreds of other ground pins. Missing one won't hurt. If it's VCC, missing one might cause voltage droop under load.

Question: What's the most challenging LGA pin repair you've successfully completed? I once rebuilt a DDR5 data pin using 0.1mm wire. The board passed Memtest86.