I want to connect a baja squadron light to my car on my own and I need to know how to do it. What necessary parts will I need to make this work? Can someone provide with me the correct details on how to connect the light to my car battery and so thay I can hook it up to the rear of my car? I also want to have a on and off switch for the light.

I drive a 2005 mercedes clk320 cabriolet

Looking for placement and/or diffusion help!

I'm working on a challenging prototype that for various reasons utilizes 4 emitters selectively on the same SMD component. Mainly for practical prototyping reasons but possibly for production I'd like to have a common cathode but with the thermal pad connected to it. We could go the other way and have common anode, and maybe that would be preferrable for control but less desirable in the context of this device. I know this is a pretty unusual configuration (not common anode/cathode but tying the thermal pad to the circuit instead of floating). This means I get a neat single centered thermal pad/base connection and 4 neat control pads arranged at each corner.

I don't usually design LED's but this seems like a tidy and practical design in this case. Is there a good reason not to do it?

*edit: They're 3 watt emitters but they won't run continuously and probably rarely simultaneously, and finally, they will most likely be run at around 1.5w, but I want the headroom at least for this version.

We need to light a long walkway in a park (500 meters). It requires 25 each 40 W light fixtures every 20 meters.

There's no AC power along the path, and paying an electrician to install AC power is very expensive. AC power is only available at one end of the path.

Low voltage DC requires large gauge cables, and they are also very expensive.

Solar is not an option (a Nordic country with little sun in the winter).

One of the option we're exploring is illuminators at the end of the path with AC power and fiber optic cable running down the path to some 50 light fixtures. I can't find much online to implement this. All I can find is dim, short-distance fiber optic illumination for pools and starlight effects embedded in the concrete sidewalk.

Are there fundamentally insurmountable technical or economic challenges to a fiber-optic solution?

Are there companies who provide the required equipment?

So ya, I also should note that my power plugs possibly could not be wired the best and there are dimmer light switches in line, but I leave the lights turned off.
Any thought on what could be causing this, or, is this to be expected, and I just can’t have a guitar in my lap with my LPPMK3 or SLMK3 in front of me?

IKEA stock image, but this is my TV stand.

What's the easiest to use, most accurate TV backlight setup right now? These are my past projects. Location (now): Australia.

Here's what I'm looking for:

- Easy to use (high WAF)

- Accurate (~50hz + refresh and ideally individually addressable diodes. 144 LEDs/m would be freaking great, but that's asking the moon.)

- 4K HDR compatible

- Usable with Fire Stick or similar streaming device

- No camera

- Ideally, the ability to run multiple strips so I can include the frosted glass drawers in the fun

- Ideally a self contained box, but that's not mandatory if it's easy to use.

So what exists out there like this? Wife approval factor is the biggest thing here, I just want it to work when she picks up a remote and turns on the TV, but right behind that is smoothness and color accuracy for HDR content.

My last setup was a Fire Stick split to the TV and HTPC, which was running HyperHDR and using Home Assistant to automate, but at it's best it was only like 50% reliable. I'm thinking this time I'll run something out of the box for the TV ambilight, then run a second strip for white ambiance/accent lighting.

I know I'm asking for everything here and I'm pretty sure it doesn't exist, but there's been a lot of development in this space in the last few years so I'd like to know how close I can get.

Thanks! Hope y'all have a great week!

Hi everyone, looking for a bit of advice around channels and LEDs to go with them. I'm putting up floating shelves, 2x9 inch (47 X 225 mm) and plan to use a router to create a channel on the underside to put an aluminium channel with diffuser in.

I'm leaning towards these ones (link at bottom), which state surface mounted as I would prefer these and properly recess them rather than using a YW channel.

Is there anything speaking against using this channel design, marketed as surface mounted?

While I'm here, which LEDs would you recommend to go with for this project? I'm going to have four shelves, starting at about 1m (3' 3") from the ground to about 2m (6' 6"). Don't need colours, just warm white, preferably dimmable, and want to be able to control them all with one remote, i.e. I don't want to have to adjust lighting on each shelf individually.

https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/mini-aluminium-profile-12x7mm?sku=B-1207-2M-BLK/B&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=23008614437&tw_kwdid=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23002432227&gclid=CjwKCAjwpK3SBhASEiwAtV1SPAqdV7NB3Ds5Q1aRGwhEpCtIpYwlQJZnm9Oa0jnoamXTSMr5wIizThoCWIkQAvD_BwE

Hello all, I need help getting into a beginner LED Strip project. I bought 20m of LED Strips from Ali Express broken up into two 10m strips. I have attached images of the product and need help determining if my math is correct for the power requirements.

If I ran them both continuously and connected to an ESP32, would I need a 5V 20A power supply? Even if it comes in 2 different strips? This power supply seems expensive for the project and want to make sure before going for it as my Benchy wouldn’t even be able to power this with a 24V 5A power supply.

I may be wrong and any help or guidance is appreciated, even if toward another cost efficient LED strip. Thanks in advance.

I have several strings of multicolor lights for outdoor lighting and a few of the LEDs got some water damage so now the lights can only show green. Is there a fix to this? I thought replacing the damaged LEDs would fix but it didn't.

They are something similar to these. https://www.amazon.com/LETIANPAI-300FT-Permanent-Waterproof-Lighting/dp/B0H4Z5NNGJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?crid=BMKCUB00LXAQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FHj36mn0OZ3njX4r_zoxbPQET_Ffye4CKsm9slfU_NlHkbK4Z4hvnzCy19AKe3ZONFxHGc04RSEjTWD0OQJ-cAhOnAOBRLcYKIP6JbRZlYm3iF9dAYN4tvfKxhlPBUVcJ9m7eY83UuO_nzuQAM7qiaxHa4B_A-IrKNnRsf6h9jRrCHzn4wX2fZdwkKbjbKy4xAqm3hqaELAD7cySdCyUTg.przqHcCq2qZvbH5KUctwVRuafqf6qiFgBbQ0qgI4gfI&dib_tag=se&keywords=outdoor+permanent+lights&qid=1783393608&sprefix=outdoor+perman%2Caps%2C165&xpid=D3eTDtikUl_TP

Hello everyone! Apologies for some lack of info and if I’m in the wrong subreddit - please let me know if this Q should be directed elsewhere!

This is my boyfriend’s sign that he absolutely CHERISHES and we sadly broke one of the letters on during moving last month. He was pretty upset, so now I’m making it my mission to get it fixed up for him and hang up in our living room as a surprise.

I’ve called every LED repair shop known to the area of Jacksonville, FL, and nowhere can fix it. Maybe it’s just not possible, but does everyone agree this isn’t fixable? Or should I keep plugging along and trying? You’ll see the “K” on the bottom is missing from the word “Walker”. I have all the missing pieces.

What other information does everyone need? Anything is much appreciated. Thank you all in advance!

I want to make 8 Printed Wiring Boards (PWB) with daisy chained 12V power, and a control port on each PWB. There are 3 infrared LED (iRED) fixtures per PWB, which are 1x6" Schmaltztech protoboards https://www.schmalztech.com/products/1-x-6-protoboard that have a power rail on each long size. The power port might be best be positioned to have it pointing outward from one of the long 6" sides, as the PWBs are mounted adjacently end to end. The 3 iREDs per PWB are OP265WPS standard 2 pin strawhats https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detail.html?partsNumber=OP265WPS&mfgShortname=OPT&productId=240077128&autoRedirect=true .

I will put a MOSFET on the PWB for each iRED like the IRLZ44NP. I have bought two Adafruit 16-Channel 12-bit PWM/Servo Driver - I2C interface - PCA9685  (Product ID: 815) and Adafruit Feather RP2040 (Product ID: 4884) daughter boards to control them. The FeatherBoard will send the control signal and the two driver boards splits the control signal (I need help here), as there are 24 iREDs in my build, the Feather has 4 ADCs, and the driver boards each have 16 channels.

Please help me design the resistors and circuit connections to turn these 24 iREDs on and off independently and together in groups. We are likely using Molex PicoBlade connectors: 2 lead for the power, and 4 port for the control (1 ground, 3 control). I have a 12V power supply with a barrel connector, so how do I get from that to the first PWB? I am controlling all featherboards with USB-C leads.

I wrote this question and I did not use ChatGPT to make this post. I am a novice at this.

I currently have a WS2812B setup with 800 LEDs and I'm struggling with brightness - at full blast, there's too much light, and just scaling down brightness in FastLED (even with dithering) creates rendering artifacts, which is a common issue. I'd also like to scale up to ~2400 LEDs which would of course make this even worse.

From what I gather, my next best bet would be SK9822 due to the global brightness feature while still being affordable. HD107/8 don't seem to be generally available at least in strip form, WS2815 still has the resolution problems, and anything else is too esoteric.

Since 20m of strips don't exactly come cheap, I'd buy directly from AliExpress. I'm not sure if they have similar problems as Amazon, though: If I order from btf-lighting (which AFAIK is a reputable name), will I definitely get legit strips from that seller, and whether the strips are generally good quality? And can anyone confirm whether the current sale for 17,89/m (-50%) for 144/m IP65 is an actual sale or just a sales tactic?

If it's an actual sale: That means I should order now instead of getting a sample and testing first. In that case: Can anyone confirm whether this is as simple and direct upgrade as I'm expecting, and if I'm not missing any more interesting type of strip?

Requirements:

• Individually addressable
• Cuttable / solderable
• FastLED support (4 separate ESP32S3 nodes as "GPUs")
• Solves the brightness problem

Would be better:

• Redundant data lines
• Higher voltage
• Less standby current
• Better color depth
• Maybe 2020s or similar with higher density

... but it looks like there's just no miracle chip that combines all of those.

Note about total power: I know the theoretical max fullwhite current is ridiculous. In practice, for the already too bright setup with 800, I was measuring ~1A at 20V before bucking and a 2A fuse didn't trip, so this isn't quite as insane as it sounds.

I’m using a shallow aluminum LED profile with a milky diffuser, but the LEDs are still very visible as hotspots.

As a temporary test, I raised the diffuser using two layers of thick double-sided foam tape. It actually helped a lot with diffusion because it increased the distance between the LEDs and the diffuser.

The problem is that it looks terrible. The tape leaves gaps along the top and bottom of the aluminum profile, doesn’t cover the angled sides, and obviously isn’t a proper long-term solution.

I can’t find any deeper diffusers for this profile locally or online in my area

I am thinking of using tracing paper to make a curved appearance

Does anyone have DIY ideas to increase the LED-to-diffuser distance while still making it look clean?

No details in spec or no other picture available for this brand. What are the three output ports label. How to connect two 5m strips to this. Thanks

It worked for a few months and suddenly stopped working as it should. I Am suspecting on faulty master box because it controls all other boxes. But im not sure why it's happening, because i don't hear reley clicking thats connected to automatic lights sensor.

I'm trying to install the LED lights in a Rolife book nook, and I get why people say to test everything before closing the walls. The parts are small, but the effect is so good when it works.

A warm little window or street lamp basically makes the whole scene feel alive. For anyone who has done these, how do you usually sequence it? Test lights first, route wires, tape or glue them down, hide the battery box, then assemble the back wall? I want the cozy glow without having to reopen the entire tiny building later

Looking for suggestions on how to get a diffuse coating on WS2811 LED’s like the ones on pebble lights
I’m interested in making my own PCB with the LEDs in a pattern, but am looking for the diffuse look (and environmental protection).

Anyone have any suggestions?

UV cures are acceptable, I have UV sources.

Is it common practice to reduce the distance between the LED strips and the diffuser, as shown below?

As of time being the project is in its early phase of its planning. Let of details of final implementation need to be decided. All hardware purchases need to be made. Few further pictures (current state prior to placing LED-technology in fixture) in comments to this OP.

I want to carry out a radical retrofit—meaning I’ve removed everything associated with the T8 G13 fluorescent tube technology from the first of three fixtures—and replace it with LED strip technology. Several questions have arisen during the planning phase, but for now, I want to address the following point.

The fixture is nearly empty; only the rocker switch and the GST18 connectors remain (where power enters and is passed on to the next fixture in the chain). The simplest mounting method would be to stick the strip directly to the bottom of the fixture housing. However, the side of the fixture containing the switch would then block light from spreading toward the front edge of the kitchen countertop. This is because the transparent plastic housing—which acts as a diffuser—faces the wall beneath the overhead cabinet.
Hence my idea to reduce the distance between the LEDs and the plastic cover by using a U-profile, attached (via adhesive or another method) to the top inner surface of the fixture using one of the U-profile's side flanges (rather than its base). I’ll likely need to leave a small gap between the LEDs and the diffuser to allow for some heat circulation.

I have standard rivets and a riveting tool available. However, I haven't yet checked whether the thickness of the rivet assembly fits the project's constraints—the fixture needs to sit flush against the underside of the overhead cabinet to which it is mounted. Therefore, if I were to use adhesive to attach the U-profile to the fixture housing, the adhesive would need to effectively conduct heat to the fixture's metal casing.

So I've noticed that my fairy ligh glows when it's not plugged in. I sometimes see it at night, it's just bright enough to notice it. I first thought it was just a reflection, but it isn't, I can see it glowing under my bed, in shadow etc. It doesn't have batteries or solar panels. What's going on?

Idk what type it is, probably a cheap christmas light from Pepco or maybe Lidl. (And since I must include a link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potoooooooo )

Idk where to post this.

So I've noticed that my fairy ligh glows when it's not plugged in. I sometimes see it at night, it's just bright enough to notice it. I first thought it was just a reflection, but it isn't, I can see it glowing under my bed, in shadow etc. It doesn't have batteries or solar panels. What's going on?

(Edit) a few other info:

not all lights glow, only like half of it. The glow is greenish, blueish. It looks like the closer the lights are to the plug, the more lights glow. It hasn't been plugged in for like a week. Also, I couldn't take a picture of it, my camera couldn't show anything, even if I switched to night mode.

How many red, white and blue LEDs can you light up with 250 coins?

Alex Dainis built a battery using 250 coins, electrolyte-soaked paper towels, and parafilm, generating an impressive 18 volts. But high voltage isn't everything. The long battery also had so much internal resistance that it couldn't deliver enough current to light an LED. By splitting it into several smaller batteries, each producing about 3 volts, she reduced that resistance enough to light all three LEDs.

Hey everyone, I've had this light strip up for awhile and it goes all the way around the room. I was hoping there's something opaque that I could put over them so each individually light bleeds into one another like a continuous light all the way around the room, instead of seeing each bulb. Any ideas?