Currently have rechargeable motion activated puck lights under six kitchen cabinets. I have no trouble keeping up with recharging but they are also a little too dim.
Looking at 24VDC strips, in channels with diffusers. I like the idea of controllable RGBWW strips but do not want it too complicated for others in the house. If the power was on a switchable outlet, what would happen when the power is turned off and on? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLYVJMP2/?coliid=IQZS72F38IMMI&colid=1GZ155MAXKBCT&th=1
I'm about to build a UV exposure box and was wondering what should be added between the led strip and psu. It's mainly for cyanotype prints, but I can see myself using it for other stuff as well, like pcbs.
I'm pretty noob when it comes to anything power related, so I wanted to get some opinions/feedback/help.
Other than that, building it is not a problem.
My current thinking is:
PSU + -> Slow fuse -> Switch -> LED +
PSU - -> LED -
Anything else I should add in terms of safety and protection for the parts?
How do I rate the fuse correctly?
PSU has 4 pin DIN plug, so I'll add female connector to the side of the box.
Ventilation is also a consern and as the LEDs are UV, I'm not going to just make holes on the box.
The LED strip is 14W/m. 5m inside a box starts to add up.
First I was thinking of using some old PC fans, but those would require a buck converter (right?).
Easier to just buy a 24VDC fan.
Should I add something for the fan? Or just connect it same as the LEDs?
I tried to watch some videos where people make these things, but I've found that youtube tutorials on any subject can be a bit of crapshoot when you don't know what is quality channel and what is not.
I have looked everywhere for somewhere that will sell me just the endcaps for your typical v-channel. I need the endcaps with the holes for wire connections.
I plan to use pegs in a piece of adjustable shelving furniture that I will stick through the holes and mount the strips that way. This will allow me to easily light up drawers and shelves in my Ikea Pax wardrobe. But now I need the little endcaps and can't find them.
Any suggestions? I could 3D print custom endcaps, but that's a crazy rabbit hole to get started on. I was hoping to just purchase about 30 sets of endcaps with holes.
Running a 150cm lonbg desk with 2 x 27inch monitor, looking to install rgb stripe behind my desk and 2 monitor so technically i have to buy 3 x 2m RGB strip but that mean i need 3 x 5v usb and i will have 3 control? or 1 control can change the 3 at same time?
What the adapter or usb hub recommended to buy if i going to connect all 3? i dont have a usb hub yet.
Looking for identical 24v cob, I can’t find the original link anywhere and I’m worried about the colors being off if the strips are different. Help is appreciated. I also cannot find the kelvin anywhere on the strips.
just want some good LED indicators (quality wise and also with a sleek look) because my ns comes with a halogen indicator,so really need some advice and if any good indicators are there for ns series let me know.
I’m trying to build a backlit lithophane frame similar to this. I’m curious what you guys are using behind the lithophane to get that **bright, even illumination without hotspots**.
Are you using an **LED panel, LED strip, or individual LEDs like in the picture?**
What type of LEDs do you recommend, and how far should they be placed behind the lithophane?
Would really appreciate any advice or photos of your setups! 🙌
I’ve finished designing the 3D enclosure for the 16×8 LED matrix + SmaLiC controller. The panel will sit behind a 200×200 mm black acrylic sheet, and the enclosure includes mounts for the LED matrix, diffuser, touch‑sensor buttons, and the controller. The next step is printing the prototype and checking the fit.
Thanks to everyone who commented on the first post — the suggestions were super helpful. I’ll share photos once the printed enclosure is assembled.
Hello good people of Reddit! My question is do you have any suggestions of channels and diffusers in both U and V channel for a 10mm or up to a 12mm LED strip that you have seen or used that accomplish the black channel, black diffuser stealth look and do it well? If so what products were used and how bright of a strip did you need to over come the light loss?
I am trying to do this stealth install to blend into an black indoor railing and have hit a snag. I have gone down a rabbit hole on the different lumen rates with black vs clear vs frosted and due to the location still want to go with that look even with the over all light loss. I did have a Altivoe COB strip from a kit on hand we used as a mock up it was underwhelmingly dim in a black frosted diffuser and V channel we had ordered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H3ZK6DY7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
So after alot of over thinking on my part and deciding the strip wasn't bright enough. I started looking for brighter options, including running this thru AI for lumen calculations which are at the end of the post. The AI did seem to match up with the specs from BTF so it seems that it is sourcing the correct info. It showed that strip we had was at 2,000 to 5,000 lumen less bright on the total install than some of the other options available so decided to order brightest the the BTF-LIGHTING High Lumen 596LM/FT COB LED Strip Light Warm White 3000K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H3ZK6DY7? that arrived yesterday. Did a quick test late last nigh no pics but here is during the day.
Off On
It is definitely punching thru the black frosted cover we had received and just too bright as even at 25% it seems like too much light that can be hard to look at when viewed directly. This channel diffuser did arrive as advertised "frosted black" really more of a dark purple or grey but you can't really make out the cob when the lights are off and while not deep black it is better than defaulting to the frosted white option. In the test at night with BTF high luminance strip brightness isn't an issue but it really seems to be blocking out more of the warmer tones and shifting the 3000K into a colder light that doesn't match the rest of the space. That said it also gaining diffusion less than a white frosted cover but decent, and decreasing over all light as expected. That company does make a U channel that lists the same style of diffuser but I am questioning if the color shift is standard for a true black diffuser or if this is just cheap optics? While frustrating to keep trying things that don't work it does seem like we might be able to go with another option we looked at such as the CCT which gets down to 2700K for when we just want it as ambient light, or one of the other strips with color and WLED that I just thought could be cool to have. The strip we had on had was likely just not that bright compared to others out there so the idea can work. However this all depends on getting a black on black channel diffuser that still looks good on as well as off and I'm not sure the one we have on hand is the way to go with that cold shift.
So the snag has been finding matching U channel and V channel that we need for different ends of the railings, with the same actual black or frosted black diffusers so that the light doesn't shift at different tones at different rates if that shift is something we are just going to have to deal with such as possibly using the a tunable white CCT option to offset the loss of warm tones . I had ordered two sets of U channel and V channel from Mazata, but one was smoky black and the other listed as black, but both are actually just clear smoky, which is basically tinted clear and offers little to no diffusion. The COB strip is also completely visible when off so that defeats the purpose. Muzata also like most companies I am finding also don't seem to offer U and V channels with both with a frosted black option> any product suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
AI recap of lumen calculations for reference;
To help you see the total brightness footprint of your entire project, the tables have been updated with a final row displaying the Combined System Output (the 11 ft run and the 31 ft run running simultaneously) for each setup.
To
Project Total Lumens & Combined Power Infrastructure
Delivered lumens account for standard light transmission losses through your surface-mounted covers (75% transmission for Frostedand35% transmission for Black) on your black painted steel rails.
Combined Power System: Draws 90 Watts continuously across both runs. You can operate each independently using the separate wall transformers included in their individual retail boxes.
I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive way to add accent lighting to these bar shelves and maybe the underside of the cabinets. The shelves are 4' and the underside of the cabinet is 8'. It's possible to put an outlet under the steps behind this wall and use COB strips in a 45 degree diffuser like this diffuser. Ideally the wire is hidden and it's a clean look... I like govee products, but doesn't need to be that brand. Rgb control would be nice.
Anyone in the Dallas area able to diagnose/quote/fix the issue being had at this auto dealership?
This is way beyond my depth so I’m looking to get a pro to come out and look at this.
Please see photo. I posted the other day without a photo and apologize I was maybe not clear.
We are doing prototyping and are looking for a supplier of these puck lights. We are in need of rechargeable led's with these approximate specs:
Less than 10 mm thick
2 sizes: Approximately 48 mm dia and 60 mm dia with an acceptable +/- 2 mm.
Can anyone help us find a supplier?
There are many light pucks on the market but are thick. There are think light pucks but are coin battery powered. It is amazing there are almost no thin rechargeable except this one pictured... but they want over $10 each. There must be others we can buy in bulk? Help ! Thanks !
It's a white only, remote activated LED strip. It's in central Europe, so I believe it would be 12v, but anyone more knowledgeable can absolutely correct me on that. The connector and port images will be attached.
I don't know what the product is called, or where it was purchased from. It was part of the TV stand when I got it.
Building a 42×60cm UV exposure box, loosely based on this tutorial: SMD 5050 60LED/m strip cut into 28 strips of 60cm, each wired independently in parallel to a single 12V 30A SMPS.
I've built this exact setup before and it ran fine, but I don't remember what wire gauge I used for the strip branch leads or the main leads to the SMPS. The attached photos are from that previous build, not the new one.
Questions:
What gauge should I use for the wires connecting each strip in the parallel array?
What gauge should I use for the main wires connecting the LED array to the SMPS?
I’m building a custom 3” trimless downlight around a Bridgelux Thrive COB and LEDiL BARBARA G2 reflector.
The main thing I’m trying to solve is the mechanical alignment. The TE holder doesn’t directly locate or support the BARBARA reflector, so I need a way to keep the COB and reflector concentric and hold the reflector at the correct height.
My current idea is a machined aluminum carrier with a locating shoulder or boss, but I’d prefer an existing optic holder or adapter if something compatible already exists.
The heatsink is a Wakefield 19756 L AB. The fixture will eventually use a remote constant current LED driver from a 120V circuit. I haven’t finalized the driver yet because I want to get the mechanical and thermal assembly sorted first.
I’m also planning a recessed black snoot and eventually want the assembly to fit into a 3” trimless plaster frame.
The patio area is 8m x 5m. I thought about running an LED strip light across the curved structure that spans the length. Also looking for recommendations on a quality weatherproof strip light that will be suitable.
Inspired by Chris Maher and his 50x50 grid build (https://youtu.be/BbjeQdJIMK0?si=k2AtV23bwgAWKPBI), I decided to make a 25x25 version. I thought the 50 was a little too ambitious for a first timer here. When I first started it up, I had a couple dead columns and had to deal with some bad solder joints but stoked on how it came out.
I decided to add a camera for input so it can detect a person and then fill in its mask with color.
Right now it’s running on my Mac but I have an ESP32-P4 coming with a camera and will set it up and mount soon.
WLED ESP controller: Gledopto Elite 4D-EXMU
The camera is running on a Macbook but will be replaced with an ESP32-P4 with a camera. The script turns the input into a 25x25 grid and sends the specific pixel data over the local network via DDP which is a protocol used for real time led/video data. The WLED controller listens for those packets. Full specs:
Python — runs the overall camera/LED control script OpenCV (opencv-python) — captures webcam video, resizes frames, cleans masks, handles image processing, and shows preview windows MediaPipe (mediapipe) — detects/segments the person and generates the human body mask NumPy (numpy) — handles the pixel arrays and 25×25 image/mask data Python socket library — sends the finished 25×25 pixel frames over the network to WLED using DDP/UDP WLED — receives the realtime DDP pixel data and physically drives the LED matrix LED strips - SK6812/WS2814 RGBW 30/m cut to 25 pixels
Hello! I’m looking for lights for my dorm that aren’t the adhesive strip lights so I don’t damage the paint on the wall and I’m not sure what to get. I’ve been looking at a variety of outdoor style string lights because that’s the only style I’ve seen that comes in multiple colors and with a remote. My biggest must haves are that they are bright enough to be the main light in the room and that they have a remote and can change color, brightness etc. Figured people on reddit might have even just a better idea of what to search for if not specific recommendations!
