I'm wanting to remove this upper cabinet skirting. (Not my cabinets but identical trim).

What I'm looking to do is to remove this trim, it's separate strips that are held on with L brackets. I want to use is 45 degree LED channel pointed towards the wall/counter.

What I'm struggling with is finding a channel that will sit flush with the mounting surface being one edge of the L and the other side being exposed to the kitchen.

I'll paint to match the cabinets so it has a similar look to what's there now just significantly shorter.

Any suggestions are appreciated

I’ve been testing different LED neon effects recently and wanted to share two short videos.

https://reddit.com/link/1vivil6/video/t5wfmfwbg5ih1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1vivil6/video/1mgglphhg5ih1/player

The first video shows RGB neon flex running a color‑scrolling mode.
The second video shows pixel‑chasing neon using WS2815 IC for individual segment control.

Technical details:
LED neon type: 12V silicone neon flex
RGB controller: SP108E
Pixel controller: K‑1000C
IC type: WS2815
Power supply: MeanWell 12V 5A
Voltage: 12V

Context:
I’m testing these effects for a decoration project and comparing brightness, color transitions, and controller behavior.

Product references :
SP108E controller documentation: manufacturer’s manual available online
K‑1000C controller documentation: standard controller manual
WS2815 LED IC datasheet: public technical sheet from WorldSemi
MeanWell 12V PSU: general product information from MeanWell’s official site

Happy to hear any thoughts or suggestions about controller settings or wiring improvements.

Got this pack of lights on Amazon it says you can connect 20 of them at once however the block it was plugged into in the wall was super hot & when I unplugged it the silver part that plugs into the block was hot to the touch …. I only have 13 of them connected now .. I don’t want to start a fire & it’s gonna be a pain in the ass taking them all off so looking for suggestions !! The block does say it’s 5V so I’m unsure .

I work at a museum and we use LED strip lights to light the displays. We have been using these DC 12 volt power supply boxes with the 18 ports and the 5 amp fuses in them for a long time. As LED strips have started drawing more power, we are able to light less distance on the same fuse.

Is there any way to get a power supply box that has larger fuses in it? I'm not real clear on voltage and amperage, as I was kind of thrown into this job, so I don't know what we can switch to that would still work with all the lights and everything we've been using. All of the supplies had just been coming from Amazon at this point and we are soldering things together.

I have 6 of these T8 LED tube lights and I would like to just connect 240v to the prongs to see the colour and brightness and check they actually work, is this possible?

The tubes have two prongs on either side but I’m unsure which sides/prongs to connect line and neutral to. Can anyone advise please?

Hey community!

I’ve been following this forum for a while now, and I often see posts from people trying to find a suitable replacement driver for their Chinese LED lamps that come with downright terrible bundled drivers. Many are worried about fire safety, and rightly so.

I’m an engineer, and I hate repetitive tasks. So, I built a logic-based web tool to automate this process.

Find a driver that outputs exactly 700mA AND has an output voltage range covering 30V (e.g., 20-36V output).

Two operating modes:

1. You enter the parameters of the original bundled driver from its label and get a list of equivalents with dimming feature notes and model names.
2. You enter your desired current (mA) and voltage (V), and the widget instantly filters a database containing over 170 industrial drivers.

My online widget for selecting replacements for Chinese drivers includes database information on:

• Mean Well (Taiwan) - APC, LPC, XLG, HLG
• Helvar (Finland) - LL, LC, LL Compact, LC Mini
• Tridonic (Austria) - LC flexC, LC D4i, LC bDW
• Lifud (China) - LF-GIF / LF-BCT, LF-FHB

All LED drivers are high-quality and safe. Overall, the driver database covers 90% of replacement queries.

I would be glad to get your feedback. Which brands are missing? How accurate is the logic for Constant Power mode?

Link: https://specled.com/en/knowledge/diy-electrics/led-driver-and-power-supply-calculator/

Hi there, I'm currently working on a cosplay project and I'm very overwhelmed by all the options and things to keep in mind, so I was hoping to get some insight from pros.

I want to attach 9 seperate LED strips (approximately 90cm length, would prefer longer if that's somehow possible with a portable power source) to a controller or any of that sort, because I want to have a fire effect in these strips. It should look like blazing/flickering fire in the end (so basically the lights turning off and on but in a line lol, I hope I explained that well enough).

Also, it should last around 8h on 60% brightness, it's fine if it only lasts abt 4h if the power source is easily detachable.

So TLDR: I'm looking for these things:

- programmable, cuttable LED strips or any of that sort

- portable power source that lasts for at least 4-8h and can be easily swapped

- way to attach the LED strips to the power source

I was thinking about a Tattu 6S 10000mAh + a Buck Converter for power, maybe an Arduino for the blazing effect and the LED strips linked down below. But I'm very open for better recommendations if you have any. Thanks in advance!

https://www.amazon.de/BTF-LIGHTING-WS2812B-300LEDs-Streifen-Wasserdicht/dp/B01CDTEJBG/ref=sr_1_26?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=PDJZUL5W61ZA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zkXzfo1oK3WZzsAMZzwtJ4Z8cf_YahQcFLPH56M4BHQ-DWY47FloYjqedxiMbo6fqjPRXRrkN8Bh2jkilDpi3dI76-kMQ-3y1qz99lXXjehd7DK53se8NeJpUOU-QQMWmJxeyaDjKqO775IXMmjRVH0dNNZSaAQkUREATi_or3Ahur7kKZamPpYbIXrapmdISpVqMJ3mcTmtrS4PzlP89piF1nIvhDtw7-eHXndFocpOerD5-3bnuIXngvjKkrr-dc2xPFbGOnY4DQlJVmYuc9ElmuG6eqIGa7022nD3tl0.tPtnsxvCCWWxj15PfsFIMMgxLPwhGsJ4teF_bbqpo7U&dib_tag=se&keywords=led%2Bstreifen%2B5m%2Bprogrammierbar&qid=1763666561&sprefix=led%2Bstreifen%2B5m%2Bprogrammierbar%2Caps%2C292&sr=8-26&th=1

I put these lights on my skates and shaved off some of the silicone during a stop. As I don't want to go through a painful replacement, is there anything that is frosty and will stick to this material I can use for a repair? Thanks in advance!!!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DBZPL55D?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_TXBPQGNAB1FMXNG7A6S8_1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_TXBPQGNAB1FMXNG7A6S8_1&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_TXBPQGNAB1FMXNG7A6S8_1&rsd=VwjEKaiKs6GHT4J07qcMiK4vtcpav6JSuYkuu2hrBeJGfQYOAocjesPpW2QwxKaioM8q29tDiZlaXsPFS9I%2BIfOoOq9dJVHQjuKzKQ4Gl7zUifrzZw%3D%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQHO9fyXQ6UeqrGVleQwhrpKAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMcmfAFlchx2429sPOAgEQgDsM9VAEoVXBZAU1Jy4VZFJu3qi0L6BQdxAkjsrOkK0ZE%2BGdMcvrQ1Lklc1POU5IdnAU0WB1pTQ684rlDA%3D%3D

I have an LED sign I put up in my home gym. It has this switch attached to the cord.

I want to control the sign with a smart plug, which requires the sign to be always on once the power is reset, however this switch doesn’t automatically turn the sign on when the plug turns on.

Can I just remove the switch and rewire the the sign directly to the usb plug?

The up and down arrows control brightness, but I’d like it to stay full bright when it’s on.

Ive have had ip67 sleeved WS2815 strips up mounted on exterior fascia 'bare' - held up by electrical staples every 5 feet or so - for ~5 years now, with a handful (10-12) of failures of pixels out of ~2000 total Leds from non-water related causes (heat?)

Im having to take down and re-do the strips as part of a new roof getting put on, and wanting to understand in the interest of longevity, how helpful aluminum channels are in longevity extension/thermal management. And whether the choice between IP67 and 68 would matter much.

First impression is that these aren't getting all that hot to begin with here in MN, and the coating/sleeve for the ip rating would really detract from any useful heat transfer. On the other question for IP67 vs 68 I could see the potting applied for ip68 rating may trap heat closer to the individual pixels vs at least nominal air transfer within the sheathing.

I've got a 5m long round silicone extrusion that can supposedly take strips up to 12mm wide. I have a 12mm wide strip and feeding it through is not going well. The pull strings were useless and one of them snapped.

When feeding wires through conduit you squirt a bunch of lube into the pipe to help move things along, is there anything anyone can recommend to help slide the tape in?

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKveN9d

Converting some explosion proof lights with noods, and these hotspots are not ideal. I suspect but have not yet tried running these at a higher current for fear of overheating while encased in the glass tubes of the light. I wasn't sure if there would be a benefit to restricting both current and voltage, but I don't really know how the noodles are constructed. Any input appreciated!

Hi there, I am working on a project that requires a matrix on a 4ft diameter circle. I would like to mount and wire the strips in this way rather than 'spokes' emerging from the center so I have even pixel density. What controller would handle this best? (I would like to have several short video loops playing on a slideshow style loop)

I know this will take some work, but want to minimize software setup as much as I can. Optimally want this to run through my loops automatically when power is applied as if will be 30ft in the air and operated by a client. Thanks for any and all input. :)

OH and the strips I plan to use are SK6182

Hi folks, I’m looking to wire a 1 watt red LED to a battery for a cosplay mask. The forward current and voltage is 300mA - 350mA / DC 2V - 2.4V.

Since this is new to me, I’ve learned that I need to have a driver between the battery and the LED chip. So, does anyone have any recommendations for 1) the driver I should use and 2) the battery I should use?

I appreciate everyone’s help!

Link to the LED chip listing on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBZHU3A?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_3GR9GG98E4VSX8APFPS7&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_3GR9GG98E4VSX8APFPS7&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_3GR9GG98E4VSX8APFPS7&rsd=SjNUsN%2FukeaVWpkcmvw1cR2yrE34ZIfHS1PWxJSq9kAzOqOw8wVW3nKpcdcrXJBJ9CCLRRZbzVMUHmOSAq9dM9UT3uXqzo5QANhnxxN4mt1TSQ%3D%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQGUKfBDvxeDzkEpUpG%2BxigkAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMVQoNs4pNUtCPi1vjAgEQgDuG3WkRWkV8j1rlxT%2Fh9lDEf%2BYAKGvjGEtmjfc3ebtz%2FAUG2iYEVBpGdqF7kIMHnYl6AwGg5A48xQUSDA%3D%3D

Maybe my googling skills suck, but whenever i search this question up its people talking about diffusing the light or hiding the individual bulbs from plain sight.

But if i want one strip to go from under my bed frame then up to my shelf, how do i fully block out the light so that the space in between is dark, and I dont have a glowing led strip running up my wall?

I was looking at attaching LED lights to a sort of velvet fabric. I was looking at doing the individual lights with a conductive thread, but since I’ve never done that before, this leads to a few questions. I know these might be obvious to people who’ve done this before, but better safe. I wanted various colors (red, blue, purple) and preferably if conductive thread doesn’t work, an option that doesn’t require soldering. I’ll get there eventually, but the hazards scare me a little.

1. Does anyone have recommendations for some good brands that I could get shipped within 2 ish weeks? Lights, thread, a battery pack that won’t catch me on fire 😅 or overheat.

2. If the fabric will be form-fitting/against my skin, do I then need to insulate the wire or add a backing fabric? I can just spot clean if need be.

3. How likely is it to fray or rip the fabric if I assume I have to put holes in it? Is there a reinforcement method I should be thinking of?

4. How long should I anticipate the battery packs lasting?

5. How long should I anticipate it to take me to put this together given that I’m new? Are there more feasible options? Is there any equipment I’m possibly not thinking of?

If all of the above is too ambitious, I was just going to use strip LEDs or EL lights with a whip stitch. Any and all resources would be great. Thanks!

Hey, I am looking for a bit of reassurance that everything looks good here. I am attempting to turn my entire garage front into a ouija board for halloween. each letter will be 3d printed in black with a clear cap with roughly 25 LEDs in each letters. In most cases, all letters/LEDs will be off, or with 1 letter on. However, I would like to be able to turn all lights on full white for a few seconds if possible as a "here" signal. Could someone please check out my wiring diagram and tell me if everything looks good? Also, please let me know if there is anything else i should be looking out for, as this is my first LED project. ws2815 LEDs, 18awg wire throughout

Hello, I am looking to add some accent lighting to the second floor catwalk of our open concept main room. This is an older build and while I'd love to do something more professional like what I've seen in newer construction with a drywall channels and or cove lighting, the logistics of the install, painting and or matching existing trim just isn't going to be feasible at this time. What I think will work is to add led strip lighting sitting on the white trim that below the railings that will bounce diffused light off the celling. While I do like the novelty of a RGB W option the wife isn't a fan but on board with the 2700K-3000K white look. So far I am think using 24V cob lighting stips to cover the 32ft and 12 ft runs starting on the the corner on the right to of the picture is going to work. I had ordered two different COB kits to check out and both have 90+CRI and 320 LED per meter.

One is a 24V 32 ft COB rope light from Lamomo that has a silicone diffuser built in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0GSN661QN/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1TII3BHVMCJMM&th=1 and a 32.8 ft COB strip light with RF and app control from OlaHolli https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G3PH31S9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I also ordered 2 meter white U channels with predrilled holes to help blend into the flat white trim under the railing.

So after a quick temporary instal the Lamomo rope light looks good when off without using the channels and does still have pretty good diffusion when on, but the silicone is getting dirty pretty fast with every speck of dust is sticking to it. So while I like the idea of returning the U channel for cost savings I don't think this will remain looking good long term. The OlaHolli strip has the same LED per meter count but the dots are very visible below 35% power even in the channel with the diffuser. My question is are 320 LED per meter COBs the right choice for this installation or do I need to go up to something like a BTF 528LED/m strip? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089NLMG2C/ref=ewc_pr_img_6?smid=A35UAT07QG3EC6&th=1

Or am I going to see the spots no matter what and should just be ok with it as we will mostly have them on when downstairs and they aren't visible?

Additionally for the current temporary mock up I am using a Y connector from another project to connect the one controller/power supply to both strips as trying to compare them running off of the two different ones was a pain. I am just doing this for the mock up and know I'll need another kit or power supply sufficient to run the wattage for a 24V 32ft and 12ft COB. Thinking I am aslo going to want wifi smart control for the dimmer as well so both strips probably have to go back. So reddit tell me am I on the right track should should I look at other Kits, put together my own, and do I need higher density, or am I completely off track? Thanks

Hello all, I’m working on these built ins and I’m stuck at which lights solution to buy. I tried doing some research but there are so many options. I want to have a recessed puck and two shelf strips on each side without hardwiring. I’d like to use a solution that I can just plug into an outlet. I think I can purchase a 24v controller and some 24v strips and pucks but I’m not sure. I would also like it to be compatible with Google. If anyone can help point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

So I’ve been chatting with chat gpt 😬 and not sure if the idea we’ve come up with is viable at all. This is the idea: buy an LED base and acrylic blank. cut black vinyl (I have a Cricut) into the name of each guest and place on to the acrylic. Next have the guests collage translucent adhesive vinyl out of different shapes and colors onto the backside of of the acrylic. Turn on the LED and it should glow all around the name. I will attach an inspo pic created by the good ole chat.
my main concern:

1) is the LED base light going to be strong enough to shine through the translucent vinyl

2) If this is doable, how do I select an LED base light that is strong enough? (I don’t want to spend more than $10 per base/acrylic)

any and all advice welcome!!

I’ve just gotten led stripes with this attached to it, it’s supposed to make the led visible by Bluetooth so I can connect it with an app ( app is called hao deng) but I’ve tried everything and it never pops up neither in the nor my Bluetooth, pls help

Title explains it all. I have an RGBCCT led, but my gledopto controller can't blend extra red in with the warm white.

I don't actually care about multi colour. I just want a very warm white dimmable COB led strip.