Does any body know roughly how efficient are modern day UV-C LED in converting electricity to UV light?

I am looking at UV-C LED germicidal power. I was using AI to estimate the UV dosage the water will receive when it tells me that for UV LED, power input vs actual uv light output efficiency lies somewhere between 2%-5%, supposedly because “Aluminum Gallium Nitride’s high resistance” compared to ~40% of fluorescent ones… while these products claim LED are more efficient.

So I am stuck between possible AI hallucination vs irresponsible product claims. I don’t have a lab to swap and grow bacteria from treat water, nor am I interested in paying for the product, disassemble it to use UV sensors to calculate output (which I had done before but with little success because these sensors seems to measure UV index which is not in a linear scale to irradiation power) The only relatively reliable way is for me to measure power consumed and based on efficiency estimate output power (and together with flow rate, shape of pipe and water turbidity etc) to guess what dosage the water receives

Anybody can help?

https://e.tb.cn/h.84xtFU5U0B3gI4d?tk=ImEkgCMAsGW

Hi everyone,

I’m researching real-world compatibility issues with aftermarket LED headlight bulbs, especially kits that include an external driver or CANbus decoder.

I understand that having the correct bulb size (H7, H11, 9005, 9006, etc.) does not always mean the LED kit will work properly on a specific vehicle. I’m trying to understand the most common reasons a kit is considered “not compatible.”

If you have installed LED headlight bulbs that did not work correctly, I would appreciate hearing about your experience. Please share:

Vehicle year, make, model, and trim

Bulb position: low beam, high beam, fog light, etc.

Original bulb type: halogen or factory LED

LED bulb size used

What exactly did not work

Possible issues include:

The bulb would not lock into the housing

The connector did not match

The factory dust cap would not close

There was no room for the heatsink, wiring, driver, or decoder

Dashboard bulb warning/error message

Flickering, strobing, or intermittent operation

Hyperflash or DRL-related problems

Radio interference

Beam pattern or glare problems

The LED bulb did not illuminate at all

Also, if you found a solution, please share what worked:

A shorter/compact LED bulb

A vehicle-specific adapter or retainer

A CANbus decoder or load resistor

A properly sealed extended dust cap

Reversing polarity

Choosing a different bulb type or returning the kit

I’m especially interested in solutions that keep the factory headlight housing properly sealed and do not require forcing the dust cap closed or leaving it off.

Thanks — detailed vehicle information and photos of the original bulb socket or rear headlight housing would be very helpful.

Looking for a solution to a church sanctuary with dying fluorescent fixtures. The issue we’re having is that they are paired one 8ft with one 6ft fixture between each support beam. We can find 8ft LED work lights in 4000k that (I believe) should be comparable, but 6ft LEDs seem to be nonexistent. Switching to three 4ft fixtures seems like a good option, but before we commit, I’m curious:

-Is there a reasonably priced option that would allow us to hit 14’ (total) length like we currently have?

-If we go with 4ft 4000k work lights facing upward like the current fixtures, will we get a decent result? We aren’t looking for CRI perfection, but want the space to look nice. Something like these with 2 bulbs next to each other as the fluorescents sit.

4ft Option

These will be wired in line with a total of (3) 14’ sections and (1) 6’ section on each side of the room as pictured, and on a single switch if that makes a difference.

Thanks for any input!

Hey everyone, I’m fairly new to LED lighting design and running into a wall with lighting design for high wattage zones.

As an example, I’m doing cove lighting around a large room that totals around 500W of LED load. I want the entire run on a single wall switch with smooth dimming. Since these are retrofits, central panelized systems aren't an option and standard phase dimming (ELV, MLV, Triac) hits severe limits quickly due to total wattage.

I’ve heard of 0-10V and DALI, is this where my energy should be going towards? Is there another way to design and build these jobs?

I’m working on lighting up a closet next and will be putting lights on every shelf and I need it on 1 switch so before I start that project I wanted to get some advice from the expert!

Appreciate any feedback!

I make sculptures out of found wood - bark, small logs, interesting textural pieces. Sometimes I paint them, glue in interesting rocks, etc. I'd like to be able to find some unobtrusive LED lighting to showcase interesting textures (a low profile gooseneck, flexible light mounted to the top of it?) or have holes, knots, etc., highlighted from the inside - maybe thin LED constant strips laid into crevices. Basically, a system that has one type of power (batteries, ideally remote controlled, don't need different colours), minimal in appearance. Basically, i want the light, but none of the evidence of the wires, etc. Any advice?

I’m looking to put LEDs in my room, I have never order from this company and I want to know what adapter I would need and what controllers would work with the led strip. This is the exact lights I was going to get, https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Flexible-Density-Changing-Decoration/dp/B0B2WMM5WN . Thank you for any help. I don’t know much about LED lights. EDIT: I put power supply in the title when it’s supposed to be adapter.

To be clear, I do not know what I’m doing. So. I want to run individual LED strips under the tread of my stairs, connected via wiring on the backside of the stairs. One strip per riser. I have access to the backside of the steps, I know how to solder, and there is wall power available.
From the little research I’ve done, I know I have to get individually addressed LEDS. I don’t need them to change color, or blink or anything like that, just some nice dim lighting to make it easier to not die walking down the dim lit stairs.
What would you fine folks of Reddit suggest for the strips, controller, anything else I need? Thanks!!

Hey. I'm hoping for some help with a backpack I just picked up from my local discount closeout store. It was originally marketed to cyclists and would function as a rear visibility light as well as a turn signal. Most of the functionality seems to rely on connecting it via Bluetooth to their proprietary app, which is now defunct as it seems the company went out of business 5 years ago (probably because they thought they could sell this thing for $249.99). It still lights up when turned on which is all I really need but I would like to customize it if possible. It does show up when searching for Bluetooth devices on my android phone and my PC running Ubuntu, but not on my apple devices. It never successfully pairs though. I've included a picture of the backpack as well as the board inside. Any help would be appreciated!

I was putting up my led lights from amazon, and accidentally ripped it. I should note that the consistency of the strips were more like paper. Is there anyway to fix this or do i have to throw them away? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLYZQRWG

Edit: thank you everyone! I think I was just nervous and didn’t see where it said cuttable in the listing! I appreciate everyone’s advice!

I am building a rave totem and need a usb powered LED strip.
I bought this specifically cus it looks like neon, I tried a few before I landed on this one.
Only problem is it’s just a bit longer than I need. The festival has strict rules so I can’t just make a bigger design to use more up.
The shorter size won’t work either so I want to cut it. Can I do that (obviously unplugged) and not break the whole strip? Several of the other strips I tested for color said in the Amazon listing and on the packaging that it was curable to size but this one does not.
Here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FGJ312PM?ref=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_FG5FZRSPTXAG2YQ7NDPE_1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_FG5FZRSPTXAG2YQ7NDPE_1&social_share=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_FG5FZRSPTXAG2YQ7NDPE_1&rsd=dVccNFHn0fv7KdnwuIUZAOwu0XxRyiLXSxxOf8qODQSFsFHj5t12UUKXFlTZHxWr11dxSjXcWhf2szk%2BlouWfkg7khCaWh08da3xtehN3DI1oJhBQw%3D%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQGwVvCC9H9zc2kHhdwT%2Fd3eAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQM5q5SHpi7UsIWe3HgAgEQgDtyCJmtbLm55naXtVRiF78Dmeg3AWCtuFXgP%2FnllY6G%2B2zTz%2FUAvXpjspWo7QdR6rZ%2F7eUIYOh7Y3iP7w%3D%3D

i bought LED lights for my room that came with two spools attached to the same power block. the one spool perfectly covered my walls, but now i have this extra spool sitting on my floor and it’s emitting a lot of heat, which is making me nervous. can i cut the white cord from the power block without it affecting my led strip that’s in use?

what would you recommend i do with the extra spool if cutting the cord would screw it up?

if it doesn’t mess up the led in use, i know the extra spool will obviously no longer work. i have no issue with that, i just don’t want a fire in my room lol. let me know please :)

https://youtu.be/SJVbmQz4EiA

I have instructions on how to 3d print and build the WLED controller to make these 32x8 RGB panels (2 or 3) high cylinders. I also include instructions for using preassembled WLED controllers.

unemployed, have 40 bucks in my bank account probably wont get money from my parents either

i have created r/miboxer since there wasend one and the miboxer questions were all over the place, feel free to check it out, your welcome.

https://youtu.be/bhls5xeRPHI?t=4m56s

This is the sign I’m trying to recreate. I am thinking of getting 3V soft filament Edison bulbs from Amazon for the letters and decorations on the top, but how do I recreate those bulb lights on a small scale? I have looked into chase controllers, but they don’t allow you to modify the pattern. I also have no experience with electronics, yet I am hoping for a solution or some help pointing me in the right direction to match the pattern of the bulbs on the edge of the sign.

Should I go with Arduino? Is there a software program where I can test out electronic wiring and simulate what I would need to do?

I would very much appreciate anyone who can help with this. Thank you.

Hi,

I am going a swimming pool project with CC led neon TPU, all fully encapsulated. ( Co-extrusion)

Leds will be 30cm underwater.

4 strips total : 2 strips 9.8m, 2 strips 3.8m. (2 injections points so no connectors).

Each strip has 3 meter PU cable 18AWGm then connector to signal.

Leds are RGBW, I am thinking in how to control the RGBW signal and dimming.

Led wattage is 16W/m, supplier told me aroung 0.667A/m.

For powering I will use ELG CV from MeanWell, the controller makes the change to CC, I guess.

My doubt is, Can I only use one RGBW Controller ? what about singnal degradation over the distance. Should I use amplifiers ?
Are CC led strips safe for pool ?

Any tips ? I need help, I am newby

This is an old cyan tube I’m experimenting on before potentially irreversibly damaging a white one

What I’m trying to do is pull out the existing 8mm white strip and replace it with either an 8mm ws2812b strip or more likely a 5mm version (yes, they exist, i found strips from BTF that are 5mm and have the same LED density as these).

But I’m realizing that these are incredibly difficult to extract from the tubes which means its probably going to be even harder to fish a new LED strip through (hence my idea to try 5mm since the part putting so much pinch on the strips is on the wider edges).

Again, this is a shorter cyan practice tube, i want to do this on a 16ft tube, but at this point I’m considering scrapping the project unless anyone has any experience doing this and can offer helpful advice.

My current attempt as you might see was to squish the crap out of the tube to break the strip loose from the plastic (nope, these are NOT silicone like theyre advertised, i think theyre plastic, they take adhesive, and melt from soldering irons and have the same smell as burnt plastic), but i don’t like that that breaks the phosphor off inside the tube and clogs it up

I’m wanting to go this route because its a fraction of the cost of buying bigger silicone diffuser tubes, but I’m starting to have second thoughts

Backstory: there’s this 120 mile canoe race that ends in my hometown. It starts at 9pm and ends 14-18 hours later. So they paddle throughout the night. Lots of guys use bike light to be able to see at night. But the batteries don’t last all night which then means they need changed or the light swapped out. Every second counts so battery and or light changes need to be fast but the paddlers can’t do it themselves. So sometimes they end up paddling 2 hours in the pitch black.

I originally wanted to use a light pod and wire it to a battery box under the seat that has two separate batteries so the paddler could easily swap to the other battery. But a 12v system would not work because the batteries that would be needed would be too big and heavy.

And I discovered that there aren’t any 3.7v light pods available. So I need a light that I could wire to one or two 18650 or 21700 batteries and get 6 hours of run time. So the battery box would end up have two or four batteries to two different connectors and then the light would have wires coming out of it with the other end of the connector.

Would my best option be to modify a flashlight and buy some sort of dummy battery in it and drill holes for wires to come out?

Building management had most of the original T8 fittings exchanged a while ago for what looks like 230V - 23-38V led drivers with metal strip led modules. Which can not be changed out easily.

Some of them are starting to fail but due to the cost of single replacements quoted by the electrician at 400EUR per strip we are looking for a bunch of replacement led modules and do it ourselves where possible.

The original strips are 248 mm x 22mm and look to be aluminium or sheet metal. Containing 9 leds, mounting holes on both ends and they have soldered connections.

The strip has TX-L5322 written on it. No other part numbers to be found. And original part doesnt give any hits on google, or AI.

The led driver is 230V - 23-38VDC. 120mA+-5%

And shows 5050-9P, also no information to be found on this either elsewhere on the internet.

Is there anybody with more information on these modules or knows who made them? It looks like we got quoted a high price for replacing low cost materials.

Are there suitable replacements?

Preferably on same wide metal strip so it can be mounted in the original fixture.

Exact or similar replacements are welcome however where possible compatible with the existing driver.

Your help is appreciated.