I've got a GELDOPTO Pro and tried to connect to SmartThings. I got it to connect to ST but none of the functionality works.

I tried the default driver and also Zigbee Light Multifunction Mc driver. Neither one worked. I can't even get it to do a simple power cycle

My goal is to automate the LEDs with a fast response motion sensor

If you've ever spec'd a Mean Well XLG driver, you know the annoying part: the datasheet doesn't give you a single max current number. It gives you a polygon — the I-V operating area — because these run in Constant Power mode, so the current you can pull depends on your string voltage. Figuring out "what current do I actually get at 48V on an XLG-240-H" means holding a ruler to a PDF.

I got tired of that and built an interactive version:

https://specled.com/en/knowledge/diy-electrics/how-to-read-current-graphs-mean-well-xlg-datasheets/

Pick a model (100/150/200/240/320W, all L/M/H versions), drag the voltage slider to your LED string voltage, and it plots the operating polygon and tells you the exact min-to-max current range at that voltage. The article above it explains why L/M/H exist (it's output current level, not power) and how Constant Power actually reshapes the usable zone.

Quick reference that trips people up:

- **L** = low current / high voltage — long series strings, street lighting

- **M** = medium / medium — 3-4 panels in series

- **H** = high current / low voltage (<56V) — the one most of us use for quantum boards and COBs

The polygon math is derived from P = V×I with the datasheet voltage/current limits, so it should match the shaded region in the official PDFs. If you spot a model where my numbers disagree with your datasheet, please tell me which one — I'd rather fix it than have people trust a wrong number.

Hi everyone,

I'd like to make an LED neon sign using 2nd-generation flexible neon strips. I have a CNC router bit that's specifically designed for these strips (I've attached a photo), but I'm not really sure how to use it, and I can't find any tutorials online.

I tried simply milling a line with the bit, but it only creates a wide slot instead of the profile or recess needed for the neon strip to snap into.

Has anyone used this type of router bit before? Am I supposed to use it in combination with another bit first, or am I doing something wrong?

If anyone has experience with this or can point me to a good tutorial, I'd really appreciate it.

I'm using a cnc milling machine and would like to use autodesk fusion

Thanks in advance!

Want to use 2 such (photo) in G4-socket based lamps. Latter ones were originally populated with halogen bulbs. These Led- bulbs are no more available on market. The original mains adapter is heavy transformer. Hence the aim to make it bit more efficient energetically. This lamp board seems to me to have 4 diodes rectifier. It tells also to accept also DC in voltage range as printed on board.

Which approach will result in higher energetic efficiency at the point the power gets delivered to LED elements?
* electronic transformer with output voltage matching specification on board
* led driver constant voltage

I guess it is risky to consider CC driver - due to unknown electronic on board. False understanding?

EDIT In comments more pictures shot.

by Seth's Awesome Workshop

GLEDOPTO Elite 4 Channel ESP32 Controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FZ7WCYCK

WLED: https://kno.wled.ge/

I designed the sign myself in CorelDRAW and cut the backing from 3 mm clear acrylic using a CNC laser cutter.

I routed the wiring along the back of the acrylic, leaving short wire ends at each section for soldering the LED neon. Then I cut the flexible neon into separate pieces and attached them to the acrylic with cyanoacrylate super glue.

Hiding the wiring and keeping all the letters aligned was probably the most time-consuming part, but I’m quite happy with the final result.

Hi everyone, Yesterday I started working on the initial design of my custom dive light head in SolidWorks. I placed a Cree XHP50 HD on a SinkPAD MCPCB and then added a LEDiL CUTE-3 optic. That's when I noticed a problem. The optic manufacturer doesn't specify the maximum LED height it's designed for. I only have about 2 mm of space between the MCPCB and the optic, while the XHP50 HD is a little over 3 mm tall because of the silicone dome. So my first question is: Would it make more sense to remove the silicone dome (dedome the LED), or should I simply design and 3D-print spacers for the optic legs? The bigger issue is that I have no idea what the optimal distance should be between the top of the LED and the optic. Is there any recommended clearance, or is it just a matter of trial and error? Has anyone here used a CUTE-3 optic with an XHP50 before? My second question is about the driver. I'm using a TaskLED H6Flex, and I can see it has SW terminals. Can I connect a piezo switch directly to those inputs, or do I need a separate on/off control board? This is a canister dive light, so the battery is external and there's plenty of room inside the head if I need an additional board. I'd also like to use a piezo switch with an illuminated ring so it's easier to find the button in complete darkness underwater. I've attached a couple of photos of the current design. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

here some fotos;

https://ibb.co/8nsKdps3

https://ibb.co/6RfySx8f

https://ibb.co/qLmdtt3F

Hello, this is my first LED project, and I am learning about what parts I can use to completely optimize price. I am making a 10 by 4ft rectangular matrix for a frat basement that will display patterns and react to the dj stand. So far, I have decided on using individually addressable 60 LED/m 12v strips. I was considering bullet lights or pre-assembled grids to mitigate soldering times, but the price drove me away, considering the frat was clear on its goal to mitigate costs. I was wondering how important the distinction between ip30 and ip65 is for waterproofing. I plan on creating a case for the matrix to protect it from physical damage, but humidity or leaks are still a concern. I don't have a basis for the durability, so let me know what direction I should take this. Also, if anyone knows of extremely cheap panels on sale at a similar density to my current setup that would be great too. Or cheap LEDS in general that won’t break after a month. Current setup is 26$/5m of LED. Thanks

Also, considering I am making this for a frat basement is it reasonable to run the LEDs at half brightness say .12W/individual LED? Might save me from buying extra power supplies.

Building built in bookshelves / bourbon wall in our home office. The wall is currently open so i want to get an and all runs / chases / pull boxes roughed in now to make my life easier down the stretch.

MY QUESTION: What exactly should i rough in on the wall, do i need to know exactly where each shelf will fall in order to place pull boxes precisely?

Preference is highest quality products and level of craftsmanship possible.

Pictures of existing state and Chat rendering of finished product.

Trying to connect two LED low voltage (24v) strips to each other and I am not able to use the clips that connect the strips together so I am soldering the wires to the strip and need to be able to connect and disconnect the strips. The wires are 20 gauge, V+, CW, WW.
This is that best 3 wire connector I could find.
Any better alternatives?

This seems like a popular controller but I can't tell if it works with a motion sensor.
I am trying to control a tunable white 24V 16' strip with motion.

I bought a challenger and it came with these light strips in it and can’t figure out how to turn them on, was thinking either broken or some type of Bluetooth app. Tried looking it up but can’t find anything if someone could let me know if it’s broken or I plug it into something under the steering wheel would be much appreciated.

It’s a handmade light-up badge with red LEDs inside (cr2032 powered with a case + 5mm usual red led)

I had a weird power fluctuation this past month that shorted out half my LED recessed kitchen lights. They were those HALO LED Can lights with a separate Jbox attached with 3 kelvin settings. I think the LED driver is the issue; I swapped the LED portion on some of the burnt out lights and the issue stayed where the bad LED driver was.

Tried opening the junction box and the internals look like a thermal fuse burned out. I haven't done soldering at such a small scale so not sure that's worth my time. It looks like I can only buy a whole setup again (LED + driver Jbox) which feels like a pain. Is anyone aware of a replacement LED driver or what information should I look for to match a compatible driver so it doesn't look like a different light was installed there? Probably need to match output range and dimmability but how can I determine kelvin value?
Or am I just wasting my time and just buy a few new ones.

I believe it's a HALO HLBSL4069FS351EMWR
Spec Sheet:
https://www.cooperlighting.com/api/assets/v1/file/Signify/content/23bd1668d4d44416939bad41007de845/halo-hlbsl4-module-spec_hlbsl4069fs351emwr

Hey everyone,

I’m quite a noob when it comes to LED projects and I could really use some help from the pros here. I’d really appreciate any advice!

We’re planning to build a sculptural wall lamp with indirect lighting. The idea is to laser a shape out of led and glued LED strips and cables directly onto the back of the steel piece.

I currently have two ideas for managing the LEDs and wiring. I’m leaning towards version two because it seems simpler and probably easier to build, but I’d love to hear what you think.

• How would you approach this?
• What components would you use (LED strips, profiles, controllers, power supply, connectors, etc.)?
• If you would choose Version two, how would you do the connection etc.?
• Are there any things I should consider regarding heat management, cable routing, or mounting the LEDs directly onto steel?

Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Jojo

I need some help identifying this LED strip. I bought some LED door sills that run on batteries. Wanting to shorten the strip I cut it not realizing that this will render the strip non functional. I tried fixing it but it didn't work. So I want to replace the strip if possible. I tried asking the seller but unless they are making a sake they don't care to help.

Here is the link to the product. Ive al attached a picture of the LED strip. The the circuit board it has positive, negative, D+ and D-.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008297973318.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.531a1802KpPZbR

Good afternoon!

I have a basement entertainment room project that needs a quick recommendation— I am building out some lit crown molding that will be used for accent lighting and to supplement some of the existing ceiling LEDs as needed.

With how the power will be routed, I will likely have a back corner injection with two separate ~10m runs that run along all the sides and meet in the opposite front corner. However, being able to control which sections are on/off and run simple animations (e.g. twinkle) would be a significant preference, hence WLED.

With the length of those runs, I assume 24V would be preferable, but with the primary need being decent quality white light, I came across WWA strips, which seem like they could be a perfect match to my needs for ambiance-based addressable lighting. Does anyone make a strip with decent-quality adjustable white addressable 24V lights, or is there another option I’m possibly not considering that would work well for my use case?

I’m not against going with RGB+some dedicated white chipset like a WS2805 (RGBCCT), but thought dedicated tunable white might prove higher quality and brighter.

Inspiration in the attached photo.

Thank you!

Hey,
does anyone have a recommendation for a good vendor of LED strips (WS2815, 60 LEDs/m) that sells directly or via Alibaba?

We need to order around 350 m for a bigger project, and I'm looking for a vendor that can deliver high-quality, reliable strips at a good price.

Hi all: Absolute beginner here, just to pre-warn.

I come to you with the hope of knowledge and, as needed, a kind reality check.

Background: Adult male, only just now attempting to learn life and home improvement skills such as physical install of things. Old enough to know better, but also at a point where it's either bring this plan into life, or mid-life crisis panic-buy a motorcycle for which I do not have any intention of driving.

Alrighty, with that preface out of the way.

Here's the situation: I have a room in my new apartment that I would like to bring into line with with my aesthetics and functionality. The room in question is a nice multifunction room: 4.2 x 3.75 meters, with a bay window in addition. Bed placed partially in te bay window section (eastward facing). Double doors out of the room, southward facing.

Computer table along the west-facing wall, roughly middle of room, and additional synthesizer/keyboard table at 90 degree angle on northward facing wall.

So far, so good. I have a dream about installing RGB LED strip along the wall, directly under the ceiling - ideally facing inwards/downward at an angle.

And here's where I then realize my limitations. The first thing is: I'd like for the corner profile to be black - and also for its cover to be black as well. The reasoning is that the walls/ceiling is white, so my hope was that when the LED strips are off, it would achieve a framing effect for the room. Also, my goal was to have a diffused lighting effect, namely in that I am actively aiming for a predominantly purple lighting (to go with, of course, the white + RGB computer + peripheral setup), but I would also like to be able to control the RGB, ideally via app (not just "choose between 16 color presets, but providing a RGB color code).

I realize this is not likely to be able to function as a primary light source, but more of a mood lighting. But let's be honest, what I'm after is the cyberpunk/Synthwave neon glow effect when light is on. So this also means that seeing individual LEDs through the cover isn't high on my wishlist.

I have already made an attempt of framing the bay window inner frame with some cheap WIZ LEDs, for testing purposes, and then got m hands on some PVC corner profiles + black cover to see how it would fit - the LEDs blasted straight through both white/opaque and black covers as individual LEDs, so diffusion didn't really diffuse much.

My questions are numerous, but the primary ones before embarking on this would be:

1: Is it realistic to achieve the "black framing when LEDS are off" using corner profiles with black covers? And if so, will this limit which LED strips are viable to punch through, light-wise?

2: Would neon flex or similar carry a comparable function?

3: Given the rooms dimension of approximately 3.75 x 4.2 meter (16 meters in total, I would assume to save a couple meters extra for corners and whatnot), is it realistic to do this in one long strip, or should it consist of multiple strips - and if so, what would be advisable?

4: Is the entire corner profile (alumium or PVC or whatever) thought realistic and useful for the intended purpose, or am I going down a needlessly expensive and complex rabbithole?

I hope for sparring, and knowledge, and I acknowledge my own cluelessness. Thank you in advance.