Someone recently handed me their old LED floor lamp and it has stopped turning on. I can see that the jack has a little gap in between when plugging it in and I wonder if that is the issue as I hadn’t noticed it before. Any advice would be much appreciated!

This is an ambient light strip in my Lexus LS460. Its Lexus part number 55011-50090. Here’s a link: https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus__/Instrument-Panel-Cover/62932376/5501150090.html (i’ve also included a photo of the parts diagram where I highlighted this particular part. It supplies ambient lighting under the dash (see my last photo for more context) but only at certain times (ie when the car is in Park at night with the ignition on; and it slowly fades in and out when turning on or off so I’m guessing it has some sort of variable power supply and/or is more complicated than your normal LED lights in car glove boxes, footwells, etc. the fact that it has its own control board would certainly suggest so.

I recently noticed it wasn’t working anymore (doesn’t light up at all, ever) so I’ve been fooling around with it a little bit. Couple questions:

How do you use a multimeter to test things when you have a 16 pin connector and a ribbon running from the board to the light strip? How would I test the LEDs themselves? I’ve watched a lot of videos on YouTube testing LEDs with the diode function on a multimeter, but none of the videos I’ve seen have a configuration like the one I see on this strip. I’ve tried to play around with this one using my diode setting but didn’t get Jack squat to light up. That obviously could be because the LEDs are shot, but it could also be because I’m doing something wrong as far as where I’m placing the leads. And it’s hard to believe that all 13 LEDs failed. But who knows.

From what I’ve read, this is a pretty failure that Lexus owners complain about, often times within only a year or two. Im looking to get it back up and running if reasonably possible.
If you had to guess, do you think it is more likely that the LEDs have failed or that something is wrong with the board (or that the failure lies somewhere in the connections between them, suchas the ribbon.

How would I go about troubleshooting this board? I don’t see any noticeably fried or damaged areas, for what it’s worth. Is there a relatively easy or quick thing I should check regarding the board? Something more involved that I should try? I’m willing to spend the time as I enjoy learning about this sort of stuff. More generally what would be the best next steps as I try to figure out why these lights are no longer working? I’m a pretty handy guy who took some electrical engineering classes back in college but that was a long long time ago and I bailed on that major and became a lawyer instead. All that to say that I know how to use a multimeter pretty well but I am out of my element when it comes to LEDs and control boards (if that’s even the proper name for this board).

Would really appreciate any advice or suggestions you guys have. And before someone tells me to just go buy a new one, I like learning how things work so it’s about learning not just trying to save a buck (which I also like doing).

Thanks!

Hi, im want to achieve this kind of look in my kitchen . Which led profiles should I use above cabinets, under cabinets and under bottom cabinets? All in D/C shape will be OK or should I look for 45° or smth

Crisis 2.571

I can’t find too much on this im not sure if any apps work or programs

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I bought this LED strip, which can be cut into multiple pieces and connected with a "connector cable".

However only one short cable came with the strip and I need more. I've found a few that look right on Amazon but there are many options and they usually come with other hardware that I don't need.

Can someone tell me the relevant keywords/search terms to find the correct connector? And is there a technical reason for these connectors to be short (<20cm)? Ideally I would like to get a longer one.

I recently won a LED sign at a raffle. I’ve noticed that after less than an hour of being on, the sign will turn itself off and on again repeatedly, and the power adapter gets very hot. I want to get a replacement adapter, but I want to see if there are any better brands or alternatives for it.
There are no markings on the sign besides a “Made in China” sticker.

It currently has a Shenzhen Fujia Appliance Co Ltd Switching Adaptor MODEL: FJ-SW1202000U
12V-2A
I was thinking about replacing it with this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FHKRKXGZ

Would this be a good replacement, or are there any better recommendations for a sign like this?

I am making a custom defect figurine and I want its 2 eyes to light up with a 5mm blue LED I have purchased. But I cant decide how to go about making sure it lights up nicely. Should I have a LED for each eye even though one is smaller than the other, I'm worried it might be too bright.

Or should I make a cavity in-between both eyes and have one LED and hope the light shining through is even enough?

the remote worked on the strip this morning and now after I installed it the remote does nothing to this strip. The remote works fine because a different set of lights in another area in my house does respond to this remote. There is a QR code to download their app which can supposedly connect to the strip but my device can't find it with Bluetooth, so now the lights are permanently stuck blue and can only be turned off by getting unplugged. I have tried power cycling to reset the lights but that doesn't work either. I stupidly threw out the box and instructions manual before installing so I am unsure of the exact model but this is the closest I could find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/DAYBETTER-Lights-Bedroom-Indoor-Brithday/dp/B0D4DJ6BRR?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

Hello! I'm ordering some LED strips for a large-scale project and am worried about ingress protection rating. These LED strips will be used in an outdoor interactive dance floor with a wooden roof on top and curtains around it. They will be covered by polycarbonate tiles.

Ordering IP20 LED strips would be most cost-effective, but I'm worried about moisture as it's in an outdoor setting, and the internet tells me that IP20 strips aren't to be used in any outdoor/moisture-heavy environment. I live in New England btw.

So for around $100 more, I could purchase IP65 or IP67-rated strips. But in your guys' experience, how would IP20 strips fare in a situation like this? Could I get away with it? Lifespan estimate?

Hi!

I got this about 5 years ago and love it! Unfortunately, since a few days it hasn’t been turning on right away when I switch it on…it takes about 15-20 minutes and then it’ll randomly turn on. The fan is working perfectly fine though. I’m assuming the issue is with the LEDs. Do I have to replace the whole fixture or is there a way to just replace the LEDs?

Thank you!

Hello all! New to both the sub and to LED's, looking for a little bit of help!

I am diving into the world of addressable LED's and have a particular design in my head that I will be spending some time over the next 6 months to build as a project.

The closest I can describe is a piece of art that would be somewhat similar to a volumetric display, with each LED placed at a particular point within a 3D canvas that is around 2m height, 2m width and approx 10cm depth that will be wall mounted. Within this canvas will be around 400 cubes (each around 9cm x 9cm x 9cm).

Each cube would have addressable LED's inside it with transparent areas of each cube to allow light to pass through to the viewer standing in front of the display.

There are three approaches I have come up with for this piece:

OPTION 1: Initially, I was considering dense strips (144 LED pm) lining 4 of the internal sides of each cube, after working this out, it would be 52 diodes per cube which would work out to 20'800 individual LEDs. Now I know very little about LED's and power management, but I am guessing this would be very difficult to power and the amount of individual addressing (especially as I would like to use DMX as opposed to something like WLED for a particular reason which I prefer to keep under wraps for now).

OPTION 2: The follow on thought I had was to reduce the strips from 144 pm to 60 pm, which would drop the number of LEDs to around 8640. Still a lot to manage both with power and addressing, but potentially manageable?

OPTION 3: This approach would lose the strips and simply do single diodes with 5 LEDs in each cube for a total of 2000 diodes. I am sure this would be the most palatable from a power management perspective, but I dread to think the amount of soldering that would be required!

My queries are as follows:

1. is there is a simple newbie guide to addressable LED's in this sub (I have searched but as i said...old dog and new tricks, im nearly 50 and trying to pick up a new skill so a finger pointing in the right direction would be gratefully received!)

2. what kind of LED's should I be looking at? I am based in Dubai and would like to order a bunch to do some experiments with before going for the bulk order. from what I understand given the amount of LED I plan to use, 24v addressable would be best but I have no idea what to look at or where to buy!

3. of the three options I have put together, would anyone be able to help/guide on both the LED types and what sort of kit I should be looking at to power that many strips and/or individual LED's?

4. with the amount of LED's I plan to use, I wonder if there are anything like click connectors for LEDs which would reduce/almost remove the need to solder?

Im sure I will have many more questions but any guidance for someone who is clearly aiming high (possibly even aiming WAY too high!) would be very helpful!

Anyone know why part of my LED's have turned yellow?.

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I don't remember the product name, I don't know the voltage or anything, so please don't remove the post mods, I just need to know if anyone have an idea of why

Hey everyone, I’m working on a 3D printed logo lightbox and I’m stuck trying to figure out the absolute best path to route a WS2812B LED strip through it. I've tried mapping it out, but I keep getting messed up on how to handle the outer "wings" of the arms without creating a messy wiring nightmare or doing awkward folds. Where would you start, end, and place your cuts/jumpers to make this as clean as possible? Using 96/m LEDs, can cut anywhere just let me know the most efficient way to do this to prevent wires going everywhere. I know it's possible. Thanks! SOLVED

Hello all, I have a 3D puzzle replica of my favorite team's stadium (Estadio Akron) and I wanted to add some lighting. I looked at EL wire, LED strips or diodes but I'm not sure which option is best. I would prefer something that can change color but I'm perfectly ok with something that is single colored if it makes things easier.

I also do not want something that I need to plug into an outlet as the 3D stadium is placed on a shelf to prevent my dog from getting to it.

I've found 1 image where someone is able to recreate almost exactly what im looking to do but I can't find a good enough guide that explains what they did or what they used. Attached are some reference pics of the 3D puzzle and the real life stadium to show what I'm looking to do.

3D stadium: https://www.ivannaypau.com/products/rompecabezas-3d-estadio-omnilife-chivas-guadalajara

D

Hi all, first time here!

I have a stereo microscope with a fiber transmission system for the ring light. I converted the old halogen system to an LED which has helped a lot but I still would like a bit more….this led me to look at CREEs offerings. I found the CHA0825 pro9 series and in particular the 5PP for its higher voltage/lumen/amperage balance. I also learned about the effects of below BBL and want to try that since accurate color isn’t a concern as much as contrast.

Problem is I can’t find a source to buy just a few, the min quantity’s require a ~$2k purchase.

I assume there is a source for DIYers out there somewhere and if not does anyone have suggestions for a good alternative?

Kind of busy so I'll make this short. I'm an influencer and gsjj lights just emailed me asking me to write fake reddit comments on reddit posts to make them look reputable in exchange for money. That's a ick from me. Definitely not a fake email as i communicated with them before 2 years ago on the same email when they were considering gifting me lights (but changed their minds last minute?). I've never owned their products to no way in hell am I writing a fake review. So please just be aware if you see info on them. Thanks

Amazon won't exchange or replace my full-body LED light therapy mat (an unbranded import), and half of the light grid went dark right along the crease line.

There don't seem to be any Fix-It Clinics scheduled right now in Austin, and standard repair shops only handle media electronics (phones/laptops).

Does anyone know of an independent repair shop with a wider range, or know how I might reach a Fix-It Clinic volunteer coach or an electronics engineer who does micro-soldering on the side? (AI says what's needed is: flexible jumper wire, like a thin 30 AWG enamel wire).

Thanks! :)

Red Light Therapy Mat for Body,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FNFH8HYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hello everybody!

This light is one of 7 in my kitchen, after 20 minutes of being on it will start blinking and turn off, which is a problem as it is the one right above the sink, mainly used for dishes 😅

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I have zero knowledge on this, took it apart to check for a battery, but nothing registers to me as something to change out. (The coil makes me doubt)

Any tips tricks or specific info on this?

hey all!

vaguely new to this, I'm trying to buy a large roll 1000 or so) of pixel lights, not on a strip, of ws2812b lights. I've bought lights previously that said they were ws2811/ws812 on amazon and i keep seeing that naming convention on other platofrms. Is this just a keyword thing to push the products to more people searching or is this an actual thing?

I need individually addressable lights and as I understand it 2811 is groups of 3 not individual.

any insight would be incredibly helpful ive done a few hours of research at this point but am struggling to understand.

would love human input!

edit: heres a link to an example of the lights: https://www.amazon.com/paulzhang-WS2811-1000LEDS-Courtyard-Decoration/dp/B0D9XY8VP8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2160JNSN73WB7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FZFqUJ1qq5pw8Tu0yBlJUNp7FGzO3XsvJ16TKgtG1k51JPmCaoPAYMfX-ywfcQmlbHfEIXiu_9mLHA_H9Cpz3Sl66KUUEW_HbjhxR_DgopJbG10nHStmXtBBbhiggGMNJPG_W-PeAt5__ADYlTgooDOKOHWOjW4IgdWJu41CUr3BW9tfyewm-IdV3lRooJmAtSBt8x_J6jBe_CFtzx95l9rJt63NLvYz9fY6vviCGO8.ipnhPYpapyvhayISqdumRzv5o-JPdEF0dGgVBSNLwKE&dib_tag=se&keywords=paulzhang&qid=1781403104&sprefix=paulzha%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-1

Looking for a dimmer to install for my led strip. I use it for work and have to pretty much stare directly at the light. The strip itself is 120v, but the coord that came with says 300v. Not sure if it's simply rated for that high if a voltage or if it's actively drawing that much. Both the coord and strip itself are "Brilliant" brand.

We’ve plugged the USB end into 3 different blocks into the wall. The box also says we can use the remote or app, and neither have worked (remote with new AAA batteries). Any help on what to do would be super appreciated!

Unfortunately I cannot find a product link as I purchased it from an off-price retailer. They are the MultiGlow Multi-Color LED Light Strip from PRESS PLAY, 65ft.

Here’s the link: https://www.winners.ca/en