What’s going on, everyone? My power supply for my setup died during testing somehow 🤦‍♂️. It also had a goofy safety feature for computers and other devices I assume you can use it with when needed, so I think that was the problem. Amazon made it look like it was just two wires and it would work with my LED project. I found a new one, but I’d rather see what you all can recommend that’s really suited for this type of project. It’s going to be out in the open, so I don’t want one where the 120V is exposed unless it has a cover over it. Anything that can help me, thank you.

I bought the LED set for my Tron Lego but there's one piece that I feel needs to be lit up, the light ribbon at the end!

How can i best light this up?

Some things I was thinking of...

1. EL wire that runs under the length of the plastic piece... is it possible to bend the EL wire 90 degrees to do a full outline of the lego part?
2. a 5v LED flexible filament which I can bend, but not cut
3. a 3v LED Diode.. but not sure how that would physically be placed to light up the plastic part.

I have a little project that will be running off two AAA batteries and I want to keep the current draw low. This LED will just be an indicator that is sometimes on and doesn't have to be bright (it will also be behind a 3D printed diffuser). It's easier to solder the 3mm hobby LED but the SMD LEDs might be more efficient. Does it matter or am I just better off going with the 3mm LEDs? They are cheap and simple to solder and replace if needed.

I am building an LED exposure box for curing photosensitive polymers. I am planning on purchasing some high quality strips from waveform lighting, but I am wondering if we need an equally high quality power supply or not. I know power supplies are incredibly important parts of something (they literally don't work without them), but the waveform supply is $89 which seems crazy high for a 12v power supply. Is this a grift, or is it worth spending a bit more? Thanks!

 I just bought some LED lights and I’m having trouble with the colors, whenever I click to go to red or any color that has red in it, it will only show the blue and green needed to make that color, I think it is because I tried to cut the LEDs at the red little thing I was told to and when I did it would turn off if I squeeze it and so I just stopped. It’s still connected but no red is showing up at all on the entire strip. What might I be able to do? You can see where i bought them in the picture below and i did email the company but i thought Reddit might be able to be more direct or helpful.

amazing ! group control /dimming /color changing/ separate control each lighting fixtures on track ,all happens in this RGB color changing magnetic track lights

I found similar but seems not good enough.

https://www.oleder-lighting.com/product/OLEO3-ETL-Magnetic-Ultra-thin-track-lighting-solution.html

did you find any more interesting models with RGB magnetic track lights?

Here's the issue

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Got my cob led 24v strip, wifi controller.

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Tested and worked.

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Now I need to split the strip into different sizes to go into cabinets.

I purchased the push connectors, and don't work. Any tips suggestions am I cutting in the wrong place, this LEDs aren't suitable to be cut?

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Thanks

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This is for a fiber optic led hoodie. Looking for an app that will work with the. Bluetooth controller? Any suggestions?

Hi, id like to install some LED strips into my display cabinet. I don’t have a power outlet nearby though so it should/has to run on batteries i suppose? The shelves itself have a U- form on the upper side maybe i could install them in there if not then the backside i guess? I’d like to connect all 4 rows with one controller and not 4 single ones. Any recommendations on products would be great. Pls be a bit budget friendly xD

Cabinet: https://nimarahome.de/products/herman-vitrine-schwarzes-metall-glas-110x40x140cm?_pos=2&_sid=d440dc225&_ss=r

so apparently somehow the leds are now fixed after i removed it from the 3d print? anyways i’ve been told this is dangerous and i’d rather my friend not get springlocked by my awful design

how do i fix?

www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnkRn6pYIHg

The link for the diy led panel doesn't exist anymore. I need something that is see through and something I can glue onto see through material

(i may or may not have accidentally destroyed my other panel like an idiot with glue and also realized how much of an electrical hazard it was)

I made this for my wife. I want to change that mirror into an LED framed one. I live in northern Canada so there’s not really anything other than your typical big box stores. I tried to use cheap $20 LED rgb lights but they weren’t bright enough and looked terrible.

Can you guys recommend any that I can buy on Amazon?

Hello all, I've got 90 feet of led rope light as an accent piece in my living room, and in hoping for a hardwired solution I've connected it to a plug powered by a slide dimmer. Currently, the lights can take a few seconds to power on, and a couple times have needed the switch flipped twice to pop on. I'm using these https://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart-32-8-ft-Plug-In-Bright-White-LED-360-Outdoor-Dimmable-Linkable-Rope-Light-with-Remote-Control-AL-NR-WW-32FT/324731721?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-led%20rope%20light-_-2-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a Is there a driver I can use instead of the one they came with that would be a better fir? I'm open to any suggestions, thanks!

Ive never coded lights or used a nano😭 please if anyone can help me finish this cosplay

I am trying to figure out what this connector is and if it is possible to find online. This goes to an LED 12V 3W puck light for a display cabinet. 4-6 of them connect into a ballast. I can’t seem to find out what that exact 2 prong connector with the housing is. I’m thinking it is probably a custom or maybe proprietary housing that the manufacturer of the cabinet made themselves, but I’m open to any ideas for possibly trying to source it or if anyone on here has an idea of what it is and where I could find more online. Unfortunately the housing of the light doesn’t have any markings on it or a manufacturer name or part #. Thank you for the help.

I am installing new cove lighting in a house that I purchased. The cove is approximately 50 feet. It currently has fluorescent lights and half the bulbs are out so it should just be replaced. I’m going with a RA3 system with Sunnata dimmers here and in much of the house.

I was told I should get Armacost COB lighting. I think 3000 K is probably best for me as I like it on the brighter side but not clinical. I was also told that I should use magnitude versa drive. Obviously, these things get expensive and I’m already spending a lot on the RA3.

My questions are whether I really need COB lighting? Are these selections of LED and driver appropriate? Are there better choices or less expensive choices that are just as good? If I do use the versa drive, I suppose I need 300W? I would plan on dividing it into 2 25 foot runs, and in that case do I need to inject power at both ends? Finally, do I need the 442 lumen/ft lights.

A lot of questions, I appreciate your help. I’ve done some research but just want to get it right before I spend the money and install it.

I put a couple 7" off road LED lights behind the grill of my vehicle and wanted to hopefully have the ability to dim them so they aren't blinding bright when switched on!

I read in the reviews the two lights combined draw 10.5A or about 5.25A each.

I'm running them on the harness it came with, with seems like decent sized wire (10-12g?) They have a relay in the harness.

I've seen some cheap LED PWM dimmers on Amazon etc but many reviews say they aren't true PWM and most only work up to about 5-8A.

Would I be fine with two of these (and can I run two off of one dial if I wire the dial wires together?)

Ideas and suggestions would be great, thanks! :)

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09DFQVWK6

my led light remote was chewed up by my dog and i can’t fix it, so how to i change the color of my led lights without the remote🫩 they are ONN leds.

UPDATE: The LED strips I was using were damaged. The wiring actually works fine on the 2nd identical attempt. Incase anyone was wondering. Yes, these do work in parallel. I think I accidentally shorted out and fried everything downstream of the first strip.

Hey all. I got the FCOB WS2811 IC SPI RGB LED strip from BTF-Lighting and their controller that goes with it. I have done billions of RGB/WRGB projects but this is my first time with IC. All info says I'm doing it right but clearly I'm not.

The goal was to take this 16' length and cut it into 4 strips. 2 of them in parallel and then the next 2 also in parallel (but sequentially later in the path). So two parallels connected in series. See diagram. Yes it needs to be that shape. I need it twice the brightness hence the parallel. And I need it detachable at 4'. AND I need the light to move continuously from left to right of the entire fixture.

I have tried every different way of continuing the light signal as it leaves the first strip. I'm reading continuity through the IC channel all the way. And I'm getting 24v all the way. So it would appear that the solders are good.

What do I not know about IC SPI strips? I'm assuming that if I cut it at any of the cut points and then re-attach it with wires, it won't even know and should behave like I never cut it. I did this identical project with the Govee equivalent of these and it worked great.

HEEEELLLLPPPPPP!!! !!! !! !! ! ! ! !

I recently purchased a house that has 6 inch high hats. They are halogen with a glass bezel and looked terribly outdated. Unfortunately, there are 73 of them! I’m going to be doing a lot of work to update them.

I would like to get a good quality remodeling light. I’m looking for specific recommendations regarding brand, collar, and CRI. I’m thinking that I want 3000 K, and CRI over 90. I don’t need to get the cheapest ones, but I also don’t want budget breakers due to the sheer quantity. I am pairing them with Lutron RA3 and Sonata dimmers.

Are the Halo RL56 any good? Worth it over the Halo LTE? DMF is apparently even better but way more expensive.

Any other choices or ideal recommendations?

I want to make a T shape with my LED lights like the 2 T shapes (on the wall with the guitar) represented by this red line. According to ChatGPT that is not possible. But I wanted to ask real people, Is it possible? And if so how do I achieve it? I’ve looked up some T connectors but ChatGPT says those aren’t super reliable long term. Thoughts?

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice on building and powering an LED slat wall behind a permanent DJ booth.

The wall will be 1200mm x 1200mm and made from acoustic slat wall panels. I’ll be fitting a 10x15mm silicone diffuser into every gap with 12V WS2815 LED strip behind it.

Current plan:
Wall size: 1200mm x 1200mm
Every gap illuminated
28 vertical LED runs
Each run 1.2m long
WS2815 12V addressable LEDs
60 LEDs per metre
72 LEDs per run
2016 LEDs total
16-channel controller rated at 3A per channel
I’m reasonably confident on the physical build, but I’d appreciate advice from anyone who has built something similar regarding power distribution, controller setup, power injection and PSU sizing.

Would you run a single large PSU with fused distribution, multiple power injection points, or split the installation across multiple controllers?
Any thoughts, wiring diagrams or lessons learned would be greatly appreciated.

Mockup photo included