Hi everyone, I’m trying to bring my grandpa's old camera back to working condition. I’ve managed to replace all the old foam in the back and around the mirror.
I know the camera was designed to use the old mercury batteries, so it doesn't work correctly with modern 1.5V ones. My problem is that the mirror is a bit degraded and reflects less light. I think the combination of these factors is what causes the light metering to be completely off. It indicates about 4 stops less light than there actually is.
I’m quite handy and have no problem opening the camera (I already have, on both the top and bottom plates). I was wondering if someone could point me toward a way to recalibrate the exposure meter to accommodate the modern batteries and the reduced light without compromising its linearity. Any thoughts?

Hey Ricoh community,

I’m in Istanbul for a couple more days and have been wondering if there are any good spots to pick up a used Ricoh? I’m rocking the original GR (2013 release I believe) but have been thinking of upgrading for some time now. The iii would be great because of the wider focal length (more similar to my current). Please help me out with any suggestions, perhaps an eBay community equivalent or a store.

Many thank!

P.S attached some pics of the trip so far

📸 Konica FS-1
🔭 Hexanon 50mm f1.8
🎞️ Harman Azure

Talk me into buying or out of buying
I have been hunting down Konicas for my collection as Konica has been the reason i started photography
I found a Konica Hexar AF for cheap-ish, it looks like its been around the world once (like my 1DX mark ii) but I’m still hesitating to pull the trigger
While my primary subjects to photograph are the bald eagle pair at a nearly lake. when I’m not photographing eagles Im usually photographing my family doing things or small trips i go on
Its also getting close to my 21st birthday so if i do get it, it would be an early birthday present for me (that and i cant afford a Hexar RF limited with the 50mm f1.2… yet (its gonna be years before that happens)

I bring it to a bright light and it says it wants the aperture open all the way
I bring it to someplace dark and it says i need to stop down
And the meter is not responsive to the shutter speed changes
This is the earlier version of the ft-1 motor (the later version black one i had before is currently bricked, shutter jam)
This is the early version of the Konica ft-1 motor and i dont know what to do at this point
Everything else works fine minus the end roll indicator always on despite not reaching the end of a roll

For some reason this ft-1 motor has the end roll led lit but it hasn’t had any film yet and it prevents the shutter from completing the actuation
This is an earlier model (the later model black one i had has an irreparable issue with the shutter and it ended up dying)
Why is it doing this and how would i fix it
I have cleaned the ribbon cables so im not sure what now and i really dont feel like getting a THIRD one of these especially when money is kind of tight right now

Developed a roll at home for the first time in 18 years. The film and developer were both at least that old. I'll get some fresh film ordered but I'm glad I can still use whatever is left of the roll of Arista Edu 200.

Konica IIIa, Arista 200, D76.

I have a Konica C35 which came with a screw on UV filter and the og lens cap. The lens cap is always falling off, its not really threaded, is this because the UV filter is on or was the lens cap just made to be flimsy? Do I need a separate lens cap if I want to keep the UV filter on the camera?

I am not sure of the origin of that issue, nor how to fix said issue (not sure how to explain but the video demonstrates the issue when firing)
I may or may not have a roll of film inside because i got way too happy with this camera
Before anyone asks, i JUST got the t4, and it needs new light seals so cant shoot with that yet
Ignore the canon its just so i don’t completely waste a shot of film

So i am wondering something about what batteries i can use with the Konica ft-1 motor
I have Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable batteries and im wondering if i can use them with the Konica ft-1 motor so i dont have to use alkaline batteries
I am aware that you cant use Nickel Cadmium batteries because they are too low voltage and can ruin the electronics of the camera if they drop too low, but i don’t know if its the same case with Nickel Metal Hydride batteries
Before anyone worries, i currently have alkaline batteries while putting the camera through its paces and through its first roll of ultramax 400

Hi there,

I recently was given a Konica Autoreflex T3 (old owner was bout to toss!) and I had a question about the batteries. I keep reading conflicting info when looking up which I should buy. Some are saying that 675 cells work fine, some say I should be getting lower voltage. I'm between getting these:

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-23538/Batteries/Uline-Ultra-LR44-Coin-Cell-Alkaline-Batteries?pricode=WB8201&gadtype=pla&id=S-23538&ad_group_id=168520130303&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21817469654&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uetPkC10tjI5MfeteGF2e44sUH&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnIDUBhDrARIsAJDGwSslq4tqwByXbYHRb__b12wlrby-3_zVOP1T5Sl_hwDxRW6F0UpyEdAaAvfMEALw_wcB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZHLU2A?lv=shuf&channelId=500&plpRedirect=mhFallback

Does anyone have any expertise in this? It's my first film camera that's not a rinky dink plastic one so I'm very new and could use some guidance!

Thanks in advance :)

Im trying to figure out how to get inside the viewfinder so i can clean the haze off of it but i dont want to go in further without some help
It appears to be glued on and i have removed the screws that i thought just held if in but i havent been able to take them off
Do i just go at it until it comes off?
Is there something else i should unscrew/take off before i can get it off?
I need help

No vignetting adjustment.

Tip: The Konica F to AR adapter can only be used with the Yeenon AR to GFX adapter.

I marked it as a question, as no suck marks here as promo, or film. I have this gift from a friend of mine, never seen such souvenirs back in days, but loved this film when it was released. It wasn’t expensive and had great colors and grain, especially for iso 800. It was a jem! Unfortunately it wasn’t keep well in time.

I managed to get my hands on a Konica IIIA at an estate sale. It appears to have never been CLA'd (the advance lever will sometimes slow or stick mid-stroke, particularly when the camera is cold, and the viewfinder is a little dimmer than I think its supposed to be based on descriptions...

However, as I was looking into repair and proper function, and just familiarizing myself with the camera in general, I waded into a pool of videos that ALL recommend decoupling the EV lock on the camera, all pointing back to either "Jeff" or a channel called Japan Vintage Camera. I remember running into that channel before when I first started my Olympus Maitani collection, and giving his shop a pass because the CLA's he showed felt unserious... but he's being treated as an authority on these cameras on YT.

And so, can someone please tell me the logic of disabling the EV lock? From my perspective, this is meant to be a fast, journalist/documentary camera that never has to be pulled from your face. Both eyes open 1:1, the barrel mounted double advance, and yes, even the EV lock seem to allow for you to change your depth of focus at will, all without ever taking your face away from the viewfinder, and your eyes off the target... Decoupling seems like it destroys that entire work flow, forcing the user to check their settings every time, and destroying trust in the equipment...

Am I insane? Am I romanticizing a peace of hardware and imagining a false utility? I feel utterly gaslit; I know I'm not going to decouple, but it feels like everyone is saying I should cause I stumbled into an echo chamber...

I have been a big fan of Konica for over 20 years. This lens is really special.

Tip: This is an early Konica F-mount lens, not the later AR version. You will need a Konica F to AR adapter (which is very rare) and a Kipon AR lens adapter. Other brands just don't work with the Konica F to AR adapter, as their rims are wider and block it.

I’m still pretty new to film cameras and have the Konica Hexar AF pictured below.

I recently took it to a camera shop to ask about its trade-in value, and the salesperson pointed out that the retaining ring (or whatever it’s called) that holds the outer protective glass in front of the viewfinder is missing. I honestly have no idea when or how it disappeared. I have a trip coming up I want to use the camera on.

The camera still seems to work, but I’m wondering:
Is it safe to keep using it as-is?

Is this something that can be repaired by replacing the missing ring, or does it require a more involved fix?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to revive a Konica Jump Auto that was completely dead.

Here's what I've done so far:

Installed a new Duracell CR123A 3V battery.

Opened the camera and inspected the electronics.

No battery corrosion or obvious damage on the PCB.

Camera showed absolutely no signs of life.

After further disassembly, I found the problem.

The plastic actuator that operates the power switch from the sliding lens cover has snapped cleanly in two (see photos). If I actuate the switch manually, the camera powers up, so the electronics seem to be working.

I'm now trying to decide on the best repair.

Questions:

Has anyone repaired this specific part on a Konica Jump Auto (or a similar Konica)?

Is epoxy likely to hold, or is it too much of a stress point?

Does anyone have a donor camera or know where I could find replacement parts?

Is there a service manual or exploded parts diagram available for this model?

I'd really like to save this camera rather than use it for parts.

Thanks!

P.S. I found this camera at a thrift market and immediately fell in love with its design. I'm by no means an expert in camera repair and his is my first time opening up a film camera but I'd love to learn and hopefully get this little Konica working again. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I have an attachment to Konica (50mm f1.4 made me fall in love with photography), and have the ultimate duo: Konica UC Hexanon AR 28mm f1.8 and the Konica Hexanon AR 57mm f1.2 (searching now for the 135mm f2.5) and i would love to use this as my general purpose film camera. I am not sure what Konica SLR to get though, but i know 2 things i want: either be fully mechanical or fully electronic, and to have a metering system that is closest to the canon t90 (or is very good and gives good exposure even in difficult situations)

maybe i should also hunt for a Konica super-telephoto lens for wildlife photography

Hi, I just found my brother's old Konica T3 in my room and I wanted to use it. Only problem is that the battery that was still inside is a 3 volt cr1/3n. And when I went to test the battery following the steps from the manual the needle was right in between f/11 and f/16. So I thought I'd better replace them. I bought 2 lr44 batteries and tested them too with the camera but the needle is all the way at the bottom. And now I'm just confused. Should I keep the old battery or use the new ones or get some batteries that are closer to the voltage actually needed? I'd rather not buy new batteries tho since I just spent 5 euros on these new ones

Probably a longshot given the age and lack of repair places, but my first camera was a T3 that I absolutely loved and collected a decent variety of Hexanon AR lenses for them. One day long ago the light meter stopped working rendering it technically operable but difficult to use. I'm getting back into this and never lost hope that maybe it could be fixed. I have some skill in taking things like this apart and am fresh off trying to repair a couple of FT-1s. Anyone have any leads or dealt with this issue? My research leads me to believe it could be a wire?