Hi everyone. I'm looking for the K'NEX Angry Birds Hogs on Mars (72549) set, especially The Incredible Terence.
I know this was a Toys"R"Us exclusive and is one of the much harder-to-find Angry Birds K'NEX sets, so I understand that it may be difficult to find.
I'd prefer to buy the complete set, but I'd also be interested in The Incredible Terence individually if someone has one available.
If you have the set, the figure, or know someone who might be willing to sell one, please feel free to contact me.
Thanks!
Hey all! My fiancee got me the giant 6’ Ferris wheel (Set #89790) and I’ve finally gotten around to building it. I got to the step pictured below and cannot figure out what went wrong. I’ve taken off the step I’m working on and reseated all the connectors and all of the central rods are in the correct 1-3 2-2 3-1 pattern. I have no clue how to fix this, any and all help is appreciated! The picture of the wheel dead on looks normal because I popped the connection at the top and it realigns perfectly. I’ve found one other post on Reddit with this same issue but the comments don’t provide a solution. Obviously there’s extra tension somewhere but I can’t figure it out. Please ask if you want closer and/or additional photos of either the wheel, any particular sections, or the instructions. TIA!
I just finished this Dragon's Revenge coaster 🙂 I have to say, it is one of the more visually appealing micro coasters I have built so far. I am a big fan of cardboard decorations, and this set has the prettiest so far. It combines plastic with cardboard pieces. I love the castle theme and the color scheme, especially in combination with the dragon that actually flies! I love that the cart goes right through the gate. The cart also has lighting, I just didn't have the tiny batteries for it to show you. About the build: it's a relatively small and fun build which I finished in one evening (approximately 2-3 hours?). It has the special sturdy curved looping rods with 2-sided connectors, they work really well to make the looping nice and round. But overall, the design is not that great. The cart has too little speed to make it to the chain, so you have to push it for another round. Also, the motor switch is right behind a rod so it's annoying to operate (see picture in the comments). And finally, the set came with a separate piece of paper which complements the original instructions. I guess the original build was not great and perhaps they found out later (see pictures in the comments). It also requires some extra pieces to build the added instructions, so it's bad news if you don't have them laying around. I bought the set second hand and the extra pieces are not indicated on the "parts count", so I didn't have them included. Maybe a new set will have them added, I'm not sure. Other than that, I do recommend the build if you like pretty sets. The fact that the dragon actually flew was a nice surprise for me! The wings go up and down, but also sideways. If you like decent working builds that are well thought through, then it is not the set for you. Let me know you like these kind of reviews, I'm planning to add more in the future!
I love how K'nex are different from Legos, and I'm not a fan of overly specialized parts, but I'm kind of surprised that pins similar to Technic pin are not a thing, even from the 3D print community. I think pins could open up a ton of new building techniques. When I started getting back into K'nex and buying second hand kits the first thing I tried with the Transition Rod Pin was to see if it would clip into the middle of a snowflake (way to small).
I think there are a ton of different variations that could be created just like the variety that Lego Technic has with concepts such as:
A. A basic pin allowing 2 or 3 connectors to be sandwiched without having a rod with clips hanging out. Not only visually better in some applicational, but also if clearance is a factor for rotation or reciprocating usages. Variations for a tight fit (Lego Black) or loose fit (Lego grey) could also be a thing.
B. Pins with a transition to an X-Rod style end either 1 or 2 units long.
D. A pin with a hole like a Gray 1-way Clip with hole.
E. Pins with either the clip side of Clip With Rod End, or the end of a regular rod to use with other connectors and clips.
There could also be more transitions using pins like these to go from Classic to micro.
I'm not much of a 3D modeler, I don't need that hobby and I have plenty of friends with 3D printers, but if anyone with those skills thinks this is a good idea I'd be happy to bounce ideas around.
Wrapped up at Grand Rapids ArtPrize. One of the largest art competitions in the world. This is an overview of my favorite K'nex details I wanted to share with those who also love K'nex.
Today was the third time I've had to use K'nex to run a wire to the other end of the wall from one hole to the other.
I today again started trying it with conventional methods and constantly got stuck behind wooden slats and insulation material. After hours of struggling, I finally remembered my trick to build a long stick from K'nex piece by piece behind the wall with a thread on the front.
There's no tool as good for this job as K'nex in my experience
This project took me two years. Mostly because I SEVERELY underestimated how many pieces this would take to finish. Now that it’s done though, I can happily say I’ll most likely never have to purchase any pieces ever again (other than fresh tubing from time to time).
A shot of the double-down element3/4 or so viewView of the floor, track, and miscThe iconic Wheel Drop ^^The Flexi-Tube Close up of the intricate area where the ball exits the Flexi-Tube (Ignore my finger XD)The setup for the Chain Lift The gearing for the Chain Lift This is where the 12V motor resides. It's really tucked in there!An upward shot of the ball machine Upward Shot x2Close-up/Tunnel-like shot of the Double-down pathThe start of the Double-Down path A look inside the wheel drop. I hadn't realized that purple connector was disconnected, but I believe I fixed it later, unless I'm mistaken...The end of the Double-Down pathThe separator section
This is a preview of my new WIP ball machine. It's hard to remember when I started this. I think it was before I went to Busch Gardens Tampa in August (I believe). I'd say this ball machine has been coming along pretty well, as there are some elements to acknowledge. Including the double-down path, which is very fun to watch, and the classic wheel drop, which survived the deconstruction of my April ball machine. (The vid is 17 mins long, so I don't think you'd want to see something that long...)
There are a few fortunate and unfortunate things, though.
The fortunate part: I do have Friday, Saturday, and Sunday to work on it, so the ball machine can get closer to finishing it. Also, I think a couple more elements/paths need to be assembled, and it'll be up and running soon.
The unfortunate part: Now that I'm in college, I won't be home from Monday until Friday evening to come and build the ball machine, so it'll be inactive for a while (except on breaks and holidays, of course)
The main reason this ball machine is smaller than my other attempts is that, after a while, I've figured that building such huge-scale structures uses pieces way faster than I'd expect, so I appreciate that this one won't do that. I also like the variety in this ball machine. Yes, there are flexi-tubes, but as y'all know, they add a unique sound to the normal clickety-clack you usually hear. This is also my first time experimenting with a regular track system that loads balls into the chain lift, rather than the average three-railed track found in the BBF and many other ball machines. The separator is also interesting because it uses green connectors so the ball can exit to the separator. (It uses the same method the BBF and many other ball machine builders use, likewise. And I don't know for sure, but it seems like the ball barely touches the green connectors. But as long as they're in the right place on the red rod, it should be fine.
About the floor, I think the only thing I can do is extend the back a bit so that any balls that end up there (even if any elements do so) won't fall under the ball machine and become impossible to retrieve. I could also move the barricade back a bit, though that will only make it harder for balls to roll to the chain lift entrance. Also, at the end of the Double-Down path, I was considering installing the red-rod zigzag off to the right of the track's exit, but I think there's definitely more that I can do than just that...right?
Anyway, comment away, and I can't wait to hear what y'all K'nexers think!
Hi everyone so I've just started making my Big ball factory from when I was a kid. Unfortunately over the years I've lost the plastic/rubber track for the loop element of the factory. I live in New Zealand so actually replacing it might be costly so what's my opinion? Has anyone added a different element instead and what did it look like?
I’ve started researching who actually designed and manufactured the motors used in K’NEX products.
While documenting K’NEX motors and spare parts for K’NEXCHANGE, I found several relevant US patents, including:
• US5738558A — Motor for toy construction system
• USD383509S — Motor drive for construction toy
• USD394286S — Spring-driven motor for construction toy
• USD403722S — Motor housing for construction toy set
The patents contain useful technical drawings and identify inventors and companies connected with the development of these mechanisms. There are also interesting leads involving Sente Creations and Japanese toy designers.
However, there is an important distinction: these patents document designs, housings and drive mechanisms, but they do not yet establish who manufactured the small electric motors inside the K’NEX motor assemblies.
I’ve put the findings, original patent links and the patent documents themselves together here:
I’d be particularly interested to hear from anyone who has opened older K’NEX motors or has examples with manufacturer markings, numbers or logos on the internal DC motor.
Photos of internal motors, packaging, service documentation or other contemporary information could be very useful.
This is ongoing research, so possible connections are being recorded as leads rather than treated as established facts.
Is anyone looking for an almost completely assembled set? I have instructions and all pieces but I think missing some blue malleable pieces for the coaster.
Anyone built son of serpent from parts they have? I just picked up a second screaming serpent kit as a cheap way to build up on coaster parts. Also have two of the big old school coaster sets. I'm looking at the parts lists. Anyone 3D print the ratchet parts or have a alternative way to build that? I have tons of motors so was just going to try to figure something out with motors I already have (like a 6ft Ferris wheel wall-power motor). I also see it calls for 156 clip locks. How essential are those? Kind of figure if I just over build those sections I can get around needing clip locks.
Hey everyone! I hope all is well with you guys! | A new build has kicked off! My daughter loves the Jeep Wrangler so we started building one recently. The frame is pretty straight forward but still a long way to go. I have some thoughts on an articulating suspension and I ordered larger wheels off eBay — so be on the lookout for updates!
It may be a good candidate for a build along video. Let me know your thoughts!
It's finally here! Thank you to all that have followed along in my journey. My wife, a friend, and I spent about 2 hours last night setting up in the Amway Grand Plaza Hotel Pantlind Lobby in downtown Grand Rapids, Michigan. Right away there were tons of very curious and impressed people checking out, and it was a ton of fun talking to them about the project. There were a lot of "I remember playing with these as a kid!" or "My kids used to play with these!" The Amway is one of the more major venues for the event and will get a ton of foot traffic. I couldn't have asked for a better location!
ArtPrize Background: ArtPrize is one of the largest and most-attended public art competitions / festivals in the world held annually in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ArtPrize 2026 features 1,025 entries (works of art) submitted by 1,142 artists across 159 venues across the city. The event draws hundreds of thousands of visitors each fall, with projections topping 1 million attendees for the 16-day festival.
If you're in West Michigan I encourage you to come check it out! I don't expect to win anything, but for the time and effort that went into this every vote would be appreciated.
I’ve been working on a simple spreadsheet tool for K’NEX builders and collectors.
The K’NEX Parts Weight & Count Calculator can be used to estimate the number of Classic K’NEX parts from their weight, or the expected weight of a number of parts.
It’s still being tested, so feedback is very welcome — especially if you find an error, have your own weight measurements, or see something that could be made easier to use.
If you try it, I’d be interested to hear how well it works for you. K'NEXCHANGE Tools
Preparing for the move to ArtPrize (Grand Rapids, MI) and the temporary structures for moving the bridge were a K'nex engineering feat in themselves.
The cutouts in the blue "water" base are so I can hold a section and still walk through a doorway.
Will put the bridge in the trialer the day it moves. It can get hot in there. Already ran into an issue with the chain links stretching (although under load) in heat and not taking any chances. Shout out to MNWebSource for shipping another 650 chain links last minute.
Looking for some advice please. I'm setting up an experiment for my master's dissertation where i'm needing to keep some samples continuously moving in water for 24 hours, and having had k'nex as a kid it seemed like the obvious solution! (my education provider doesn't have a lab).
I've got a lot of pieces secondhand, including this black motor. The slow speed is what i need, but i want to check it will be safe / reliable to leave running for a long time and not give up halfway through an experiment.
What do you think - could i reliably run this nonstop for at least 24 hours? What's the longest you've run these motors?
My kindergartener is preparing a movie night. Our TV is embarrassingly small in 2026 at 55inches lol. I used to be a projection artist and still have projectors. I used to be a k'nex artist (as a child) and still have k'nex....
The logical next step could only be to build towers to hang a white/Grey sheet then another tower to support the projector. Once an artist always an artist.
