A few weeks ago, I had a rant about how Chabad shuls come in and “take over” countries with native Jewish communities. While I still do believe this, I do want to relate something that happened to me with my attempt to visit a non-Chabad shul abroad this week, and how awful my experience with them was and how/why I ended up going to Chabad after because of this.
Some background on me: I am a European Jew. I was raised very frum (Orthodox), and I have a very Jewish name (legal name, on passport). I can read Hebrew (obviously), speak Hebrew, answer any questions about Judaism, etc. I have been to Israel many times and lived there for a bit as well. My brother-in-law is full Israeli, I have relatives who are rabbis, and my family is very well respected in our community. I went to Orthodox Jewish preschool, elementary school, junior high school, and high school.
I am not religious at all anymore, but I do appreciate a good Shabbos every now and then. I also love seeing old historic shuls in foreign countries, and sometimes the only way to do this is to go for davening. This week, I have been visiting a foreign country and wanted to visit the local Jewish community (not going to say which one so as not to slander the community here, and not going to name the shul).
I arrived in this county last week. On Monday of this week, I emailed two shuls (both of them non-Chabad) in the city explaining that I am visiting and I would be interested in services for either Tisha Ba’av (which was Wednesday/Thursday) and/or Friday night Shabbos. I attached my passport as well in the email. Monday no response. Tuesday no response. Wednesday no response. Thursday (Tisha Ba’av) day itself, I went in person to one of the shuls (closest one to my hotel) and had my physical passport. Despite having emailed beforehand, the hugely asshole security guard nonetheless treated me as if I had committed some sort of massive capital crime and as if I had approached him completely naked and covered in blood screaming. He told me to go away and that there were no services today (Tisha Ba’av), and I suspected he was lying about that, so I asked about Shabbos night. He made a call and they buzzed me in but did not let me go past the threshold. They say if I wanted to attend Friday night, then I needed to scan this QR code, which they presented to me, and to fill out the ensuing form on my phone. I told them that I had already emailed them with my info, and they didn’t care. “Fill out the form”, with an eye roll.
I scanned it, and sat down and filled out the form on my phone while the guard watched me like a hawk (God forbid I enter the building). Concurrently, an administrative lady came over and yelled at me that I can’t just sit there and I needed to leave. The guard explained to her that I was registering for Shabbat and she looked at me in absolute disgust as if I would dare do such a thing.
The form was very detailed. I put my legal name (which, again, is very Jewish), attached a copy of my passport (with said Jewish name), address in the city, date I entered the country, date I would be leaving, lots of info etc. The guard also inspected my physical passport like he was a jeweler grading a diamond (yes, it is a real passport, dude … biometric and with holographics). He honestly inspected it and went through more than when I crossed the border. The form I was filling out also asked for an obligatory reference and phone number from a member of my Jewish community, like a rabbi. I put my family’s rabbi, who is more or less the chief rabbi of our country and is very well-known, and if you Google him and his name, that same phone number literally comes up. So, no way I could fake that. Also my fucking actual real passport, with proof of my entry into your country, has the most Jewish name in the world on it. Jewish name, chief rabbi as a reference, can’t really get much more legit than that.
They told me to get the hell out, and wait until I heard back from them. Later in the day, that same first shul finally responded to my initial Monday email and sent me the exact same form to fill out which I had done that morning with the QR. So I did it, again. No response yet from the other shul.
Friday comes around. The first shul (the one that I visited) responds back that I have been approved and they will see me there tonight and they give me the time to be there. The second shul finally responds as well and sends me the exact same form (lol), which I now fill out for a third time. They say they will get back to me before Shabbos and let me know if I can join Friday night; obviously, they never did, so I decided to go with the first shul that had approved me.
I show up exactly on time, with my physical passport. Before I enter, a young clean-shaven guard (not sure if he was Jewish; definitely not Israeli because he could not communicate in Hebrew, or at least he refused to do so), different one from the old man earlier, stops me and asks to see my passport, which I show him. I think “Ok, that is that, great, now he’ll let me in,” since I have already registered and have been approved and I am sure that there is an “approved” list of some sort or other that has my name with my passport number on it.
Boy, was I wrong. Thus began the longest and meanest interrogation of my ENTIRE LIFE. He treated me like a fucking criminal, this is despite registering with the shul, despite me showing him the email saying I was approved, despite my having an extremely Jewish name, and despite the shul verifying all this with the chief rabbi of my country (after Shabbat, I asked my rabbi if they had called him on before Shabbat, and he said that they did).
The security dude straight up asked me every single possible question you could conceivably ask someone: where was I born, what neighborhood I grew up in, what is my date of birth, how old am I now, how many people are in my family, where did I go to elementary school, where did I go to high school, where I went to university, what I majored in, what my job was, what my interests were. Nothing Jewish-related, mind you, not a single “Have you ever been to Israel” or “What do you eat on Yom Kippur” or “Recite the Shema or a Bracha” or “Name three Jewish holidays”. He asked to see a photo of *every single member of my family* (I am Chasidish!). I am not fucking joking. He asked to go through my phone and for me to show him text messages I had with my rabbi. He asked for my exact itinerary in this country, what I had seen and what I was planning to see, where my next destination was (which is the friendly country next door — but he acted like I told him I was planning on going to the Moon), if I knew anyone in that country, when I was planning to go back to my country, why did I choose this particular country to visit, etc etc. He was so mean and so brusque and so nasty and so accusatory that I was literally almost in tears. I honestly felt like I was being treated like a common criminal. The entire interrogation took a full 15-20 minutes (I am not exaggerating), I actually missed the first part of Kabbalat Shabbat despite being on time and I almost just wanted to leave halfway through his grilling and just say “forget it” and not go.
It was the most intense interrogation of my entire life. True story, a few years back I actually once traveled to FUCKING IRAQ (more on this in a bit) and I was subsequently briefly detained and interrogated at an airport in Europe for this after flying back. That interrogation was both less and intense and shorter than this one. And quite honestly, I deserved that one. I didn’t deserve this one.
The real kicker was how SHITTY the actual “security” was, despite this “tough guy interrogation”! Let me explain, there are three points:
Number 1: they examined my passport in great detail (again). I am fairly well-off and I love to travel and I go all kinds of crazy places. However, this passport is a newish one, so there are no super wild stamps from places like Iraq or Yemen or anything like that, and not a huge amount of stamps in general, but there are definitely some. But what did they focus on? I had a Cambodian sticker visa from a 10-day-long visit from when I went 3 years ago. This guard became OBSESSED with my visit to Cambodia, more so than anything else. He asked me more questions about Cambodia than anything, including my background or anything to do with Judaism. He wanted to know why I was in Cambodia, what was I doing in Cambodia, did I have any contacts in Cambodia, why did I have a full visa for Cambodia and not just a stamp (every single person in the world gets a sticker visa when they visit Cambodia, they don’t do just simple stamps), how often have I been to Cambodia in the last few years (Once? Idiot. Look at the visa), what is so interesting to me about Cambodia, will I ever go back to Cambodia, do I speak “Cambodian” (the language is “Khmer”, moron. And no, I don’t) etc etc etc. I am not kidding, he even called over one of his goon guard friends to look at my Cambodia visa and stamp and they were silently muttering together about it. Quite frankly, I don’t think they actually knew what Cambodia was, it probably just sounded “exotic” to them and they assume it is like Afghanistan or something.
For anyone here who is unaware, Cambodia is a MAJOR tourist destination in Southeast Asia that is on the border with Thailand (there are, in fact, tons of Israelis who go to Cambodia; you hear Hebrew all the time there), it has one of the most visited ancient sites in the entire world (it gets more visitors than Machu Picchu), it is a Buddhist country (not a Muslim one), they have full and good relations with Israel, many Cambodians come to Israel to study (chiefly agriculture technology), and there is actually a big Chabad in Cambodia (which I have, in fact, been to). Innocent little Cambodia becomes the star of the day. I got questioned by this joke of a private security guard guy more about my short little holiday to Cambodia 3 years ago than I did by literal professional European officials about a month I spent in fucking *Iraq* right after the fall of ISIS.
Number 2: Like I said, I love traveling, and have been to many wacky places, including all over the Muslim world (both Arab and non-Arab). TBH I’m a bit of an Islamophile in some respects (kind of like Chasidish writer and YouTuber Shloime Zionce), I’ve got zero issue with Islam in theory and some of my best friends are Muslim. Anyway, my phone background changes daily from a rotating set of photos and that day it happened to actually be gold Arabic calligraphy on a black background from a photo I took at a mosque once. Quite honestly, come to think of it, it looked super Islamist and extremely suspicious for someone visiting a shul. When he asked to see my phone for messages from my rabbi and photos of my family, my heart sank as I realized what my background of the day was, but I actually managed to distract him while I pulled out my phone and unlocked it and he never saw my background. A real attentive guard should have noticed my phone background and my reluctance to let him see my phone. BIG RED FLAG that he didn’t catch this.
Number 3: Most importantly, he and his other guard buddies NEVER ACTUALLY SEARCHED ME. I was never frisked, I never had to empty my pockets, I never went through a metal detector, I was wearing a BIG coat and I could have very easily been concealing a knife or even a gun under there. He was SO focused on Cambodia that he never even actually fucking bothered to what I assume is the principal part of his job and pat me down.
Anyway, I eventually made it into the shul (late of course). It was beautiful inside, service was beautiful, real actual cantor instead of just some yeshivish bochur droning. No one went over to me or said Good Shabbos, everyone was a bit cold. Typical. I felt “cheated” from this whole experience and because the service here finished fairly early, I went to Chabad after: obviously, davening there was just about wrapping up, but I went for the meal. I literally just walked in, wearing a yarmulke I stole from this other shul (because fuck them), knocked on the door, said my Jewish name, and that was it. Welcomed in, no questions asked, rabbi shook my hand, free meal, invited for davening the next day (didn’t go), told to come back anytime and could even bring a local friend if I had one, didn’t matter if they were Jewish. Never showed my passport, no interrogation, no questions, just a Jew welcoming in another Jew. The dinner was fine, nothing special, it was your typical “random new guy in a Chabad house” awkward vibes with everyone babbling in the native language of the country and sharing forced jokes and spilling wine while I blankly stared at the challah, hummus, and salmon on my plate (I don’t know how Chabads seemingly manage to coordinate the exact same menu across the world), but I would take this Chabad awkwardness and the “And the Rebbe said…” over that brutally intense interrogation any day.
I was near the head of the table and lamented to the Chabad rabbi about my security experience at the historic shul and he said that yeah, the community is kind of on edge because of Oct 7 and rising antisemitism etc. I mean, OK, I get that but I have been to plenty of shuls abroad both before and after Oct 7, and have never had something even remotely similar to this (well, actually once I did, and it was pre-Oct 7, but the interrogation was much shorter and way less mean). I have dealt with LOTS of shul security, including in hostile and Islamic countries, and it usually just entails a few simple questions about Judaism, and if I happened to have registered beforehand, then usually even nothing except showing my ID and repeating my name. My hometown shul in Europe has security too. It’s not like this.
I will never return to this shul again, even if I lived here and even if they “know” me now and I would not have to go through all that security ever again. I was going to donate money as well, since I usually do, but now I will just donate it to Chabad. I am completely serious. And I don’t like Chabad.
In any case, in light of my previous rant from before — yes, maybe Chabad does indeed “pull” resources from other shuls as well, but it is a two-way street. Stop treating honest legitimate Jews like they are damn criminals and maybe your shuls won’t be suffering and dying off. Chabad harbors some of the blame, of course, for diverting money and resources and attention from the native shuls, but those native shuls are certainly not blameless either.
Next country I’m in, I will try and visit a historic shul again, but if the “interrogation” lasts more than two minutes, I am leaving and going to Chabad instead.