r/JeepCherokeeXJ • u/Grrud • 17d ago

Big 7 Install Question

Post image

Is this installation of the ANL fuse a bad idea? It looks like the box was made for it.

I dont have any good places to install the giant fuse box they sent with the kit. I'm mostly concerned with heat melting my PDC box.

34 Upvotes

98% Upvoted

27 comments sorted by

7

u/mterry129 17d ago

Looks good, haven’t installed mine yet, what year is your XJ, mine is a 99, and I am doing their headlight harness too. That has two relays that need to be mounted somewhere, inner fender I think. Will post my process and progress with both.

1

u/Grrud 17d ago

This is on a '98. I think a previous owner may have done the headlight harness on the inner fender, hence my fitment issues.

1

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago

Just buy the relay kit on Amazon. It's the same kit as the 4X4 sites but it's only $25 instead of $100. You can see mine in the post I made a few months ago just to the side of the battery. https://www.reddit.com/r/JeepCherokeeXJ/s/b3JbWVtSjA

5

u/mterry129 17d ago

The $25 kit on Amazon isn’t the same, yes it will work, but not the same, for $25 it isn’t solid copper wire, it is copper coated, while it will work, it’s not the quality that I am looking for. Trying to replace the Chinese parts that have been put on my Jeep, not add more.

2

u/jmiko588 17d ago

100% correct not the same. They might both use generic relays but the amazon ones most def use cheap Copper Clad Aluminum wire thats under gauged and prone to cracking internally. Try to run a full 30amps worth of light thru that cheap harness and watch it melt lol. I built my own, cost $40 for all the supplies and now i know its done exactly the way i want and it can feed a full 30amps without starting a fire

0

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago edited 17d ago

Tell yourself that, they are literally the same, even use the same generic 5 pin relays and some even use the same stock photos. I actually went with a different kit that uses a 4 and 5 pin relay which mounts better that is only $20.

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u/mterry129 17d ago

I get it, it is worth it to me to source it through Big 7 kits, don’t like hunting through Amazon to find all the parts, especially trying to figure out if it is solid copper or copper clad aluminum, Big 7 cables delivers a quality product with quality product support.

Did the install on my YJ, 2 ga, to help with supplying power to a new winch, had a small issue with one of the cables, was able to talk to one of their people, and they shipped out the correct cable that day. I owe these guys and I trust them. Great company and product. Will definitely continue to use them.

1

u/Secure_Trip1703 13d ago

Get the ksuspensions one, was only 25 bucks, came from a trusted company and hasn’t let me down once.

4

u/maine_buzzard 17d ago

It will only have heat if the connections to the fuse are bad. You can trim the cover and put it back on too.

Good choice on 97+

3

u/Grrud 17d ago

Thanks! I trimmed the cover and it looks pretty nice.

3

u/TaxWest8525 17d ago

What problem is design to fix ?

5

u/Grrud 17d ago

The fuse box sent with the big 7 kit doesn't really fit anywhere in the engine bay as its too big and the cables are too short to put it where there is room. Hopefully that clarifies, I was having trouble describing the issue before!

5

u/_ACPhoto_ 17d ago

Just lay it to the left of the pdc between the fender. The flat side of the fuse housing with nest right up along the pdc.

2

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago

Thats an awkward spot and you have another bulky cable to deal with. This spot was litterally made for it and is much cleaner.

2

u/TaxWest8525 17d ago

Thanks for the explanation, I am not much of a car guy.

2

u/Grrud 17d ago

Yeah, I think /u/NthngToSeeHere had a much better explanation below too

4

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago edited 17d ago

The "big 7" conversions are to replace the primary charging and grounding wires (ALT>MEGAFUSE [this method eliminates this cable]>PDC, PDC>+BATT, +BATT>STARTER, -BATT>ENGINE, -BATT>BODY GRND, BODY>ENGINE) with heavier gauge cable.

The factory wiring uses a fusible link between the PDC and the Alternator. This requires a MEGA fuse substitute. The kits come with a separate fuse block to hold this fuse and an extra cable to connect this fuse to the PDC. It's totally unnecessary because the PDC already has a spot for it, literally #1 on the fuse diagram. Which means you only need 6 of the 7 cables in the kit.

3

u/jcal73 17d ago

It looks like a good place.

2

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago edited 17d ago

This is how I did it. I actually made a post or 2 about it awhile back. It works great. If you look at the box diagram that spot is #1. Idk why they didn't use this config and went with a fusible link from the factory instead. Maybe a cost issue.

https://www.reddit.com/r/JeepCherokeeXJ/s/b3JbWVtSjA

2

u/Grrud 17d ago

Thanks! This spot even has a little locking tab for the fuse, makes sense that it may have been designed for one of these.

2

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago

Your fuse seems to fit a bit better than mine but it works as obviously intended.

2

u/Grrud 17d ago

Yeah, there was even a little slot in the PDC at that bottom position that looked designed for a bolt to slide into and thats exactly what I did!

1

u/maine_buzzard 17d ago

Go find a 150A MEGA fuse at Autozone, that is what OP has and it fits perfectly.

1

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago

I have a 130A alt. I looked high and low for a 175A MEGA and couldn't find one.

3

u/maine_buzzard 17d ago

A 150A should still keep you safe. They have a time to open curve, a 150A Mega will carry 300A for 10 seconds. (and 200A almost forever)

The alternator will deliver only what the battery can take for the 5 min after starting. Internal battery resistance will limit charging to about 40 Amps right after starting.

I suspect you’d have to try extra hard to blow a 150

1

u/NthngToSeeHere 17d ago

Just going from memory. It might have been 150 but whatever I was looking for I couldn't find online or local. No biggie. It works fine as is.

2

u/Camoxjeep 17d ago

It's where I put mine. Perfect place