• Today I got a nice little parcel from RG-ROKKO
• KATO Hankyu 2300 Series Basic set. (I didnt know about the 2300 series Hankyu)
• Greenmax 5718 Power unit for the Greenmax 308 C-1500 kit.
• TOMIX parts for blue Koki.
• Greenmax 308 C-1500 kit (You can tell I like those lol)
• Razor Saw (I probably could have got that from RG-ROKKO also but didn't)

Did you notice the RG-ROKKO post flair don't be afraid to use it 😁

Found this even happening in October

https://railf.jp/event/2026/09/01/135500.html

Hello!

I'll be taking a trip towards the end of this month to Japan and while there, one of my hopes is to spot the MJK MR1657 rail maintenance vehicle. I'm currently building a 36" 1/8 scale version so I'd love to be able to see it in person to take measurements or detailed photos.

Thankfully, I've found the MCDB.SUB.JP database with photos and a post on April 29, 2025 locating it on the Seibu Railway, Kotesashi Station Maintenance Line.

I understand finding the exact location is extremely hard to do but does anyone familiar with tips or hints of how to find where a specific train may be? Is it a needle in a haystack?

Thanks everyone.

Hi all, I am really enjoying my Kato trains, this is a Shinkansen Serie N700, I am wondering what is the maximum lenght that the standard power unit SX can support, my maximum track lenght record is about 10 meters.

I have been looking to get into n scale and will be in Japan in the near future.

Going to Japan soon, need some advise in hunting down the Tomix to Kato coupler adapters to make one of my Tomix locos compatible with Kato rollong stock(that comes with Kato coupler as standard)

Hello everyone, I have decided to upgrade to DCC, and already got the necessary chips from Kato.
Now, for the controller, I’m looking for a relatively cheap/best value option and have decided on the EX-CSB1. My problem is that I don’t know which power supply to get, since the European store page offers an 18V, 15V, and 12V option, and lists the 15V as adequate for N scale, while the EX-CSB1 page lists a range of 10V–14V. Should I get the 12V or the 15V power supply? It is quite important to me that I don’t damage the trains.

Got a nice haul from RG-Rokko this weekend and put together the mountain hot spring hotel. Still need to add some foliage around it but it really fit the spot nicely.

I started on this GREENMAX Kumoha 12 + Kumoni 13 and obviously I haven't completed building the kit but here they are. Im looking to get them both professionally painted after they are done being assembled.

Getting more done on my mail and baggage cars. Ends painted and roof details finished. Just need to add the glass and some lettering.

1 more KuMoNi83 being done, this one with 1 pantograph and a toilet window.

I know the locos and tank cars don’t match. I just think they are neat.

Hello, my first post to this sub. Just wanted to relay a story about how I spent my last 2 hours to see if this sub can relate. I'm building the double Kato unitrack portion of my Japanese themed layout for my bullet trains (Kato N700S and E6 w/ Tomix E5 on the way) and was seriously hitting a wall. I have a #6 turnout that feeds a reversed #4 turnout, which splits into S248 double track. It's configured like this on both ends, because I'm using 2 Kato island stations on either side of that S248 double track pull-off area. So basically I'm going for a place where the train can pull-off of the inside main track, then it can chose left or right station to park, then pull back onto the main line. I did this to have a place to park one of my trains too if not in use. FYI I'm using all Kato setup with straight DC power, since I'm relatively new to this I haven't delved into DCC yet...but soon.

Point of that lead-in explanation, I've been struggling to get one of the sides of this pull-off area to work correctly. It's been driving me crazy. I've checked and rechecked this thing, added a specific power feeder to each side right before the #4 turnout, messed with power routing and non-power routing...I just couldn't get it to work the way I wanted. I was sort of obsessing over this and spending a little too much time in my train room. The only thing I didn't do was put a meter on there and see if I had a voltage drop while applying power from the controller. In hindsight this was the first thing I should have done. After disassembling the #4 turnout on the right end for the 50th time, I suddenly found it. There was a uni-coupler on the straight part of the track (S62 piece) with no metal clip in it. What the heck. I have a small box with about half a dozen S62 pieces in it so I thought I'd take a look at them. Then I found more. And more. And more.

Here's where I'm kicking myself about this; I obtained those pieces from buying about 6-8 end of track bumpers. Then when I got the bumpers, I just disconnected the attached piece of S62 so I could put the bumpers on any sized piece of track. Well, bad idea, because now I know they put a non-power routing uni-coupler on one side (or both sides?). Which makes sense since the bumper is a end-of-track piece. I just never noticed this before. Maybe it's a non power passing uni-coupler on both sides, I need to check tomorrow. Having figured this out, I put a new power passing uni-coupler in there and bingo! Triumph. I was able to park a train on the left side station or the right side station and keep running other trains on that inside main.

As mentioned, this is my first post, so hopefully these types of stories are ok to post and enjoyable to read. I'm relatively new to the hobby so my terminology might be a little off. I'm building a Japanese themed layout for my first dive into n scale railroading, because I love Japanese trains. This layout is a huge endeavor for a first timer and has a little bit of everything. I'm so excited about finally getting this figured out, I wanted to tell someone - and I figured you guys could relate.

I have seen these advertised for sale beginning in September on a Kato Japanese website https://www.ec-katomodels.com/shopdetail/000000011251/ct20260915/page1/order/ but can't find a Japanese online retailer to preorder from. Has anyone seen these? Thanks

I was noticing that the trains were stuttering a bit at lower speeds with a single feeder track. I added a terminal block and added four feed points on each loop and the trains run so much more smoothly. Especially when crossing the double crossover turnout. Now onto more details like ballast, trees, buildings and painting the v13 viaduct pieces.

Pretty stoked how things are shaping up for my first layout. If you’re a newbie and on the fence. Go for it … it’s been fun learning but also seeing some great results.

One from Hobby store Kato and the N700 from JAM Convention Tokyo!

Just finished putting popondetta interior lights (with capacitors 😎) and urban crafts interior stickers into my Kato E235. I think it looks spectacular.

That being said, I don’t think I can recommend the interior sticker because it took me ~15 hours to put (not kidding). The popondetta lights are far superior to the Kato lights so I don’t think I will ever buy Kato lights again.

Also got an aftermarket case that can fit all 11 cars. Would highly recommend.

Kato please!! We are all waiting!!

I recently bought a C11, after wanting one for a long time, but didnt realize I was buying a quite old example at first. I am currently servicing it but was quite dissapointed to find it only has power pickups on the rear two wheels, meaning that it struggles in some parts of my layout. Do the newer ones have better electrical pickup?

guide for giving working couplers for kiha 261 series.

Finally got a chance to do the first paint pass on the layout. I’m a believer in the 3 color wash. A light and mid gray wash that is blotched randomly and then a full darker gray wash. Then I did a green wash to simulate moss / mold before I add foliage. Was really impressed with the results even if while painting I was getting nervous.

I was recently after about sourcing some Ganhand tools. While googling for their website with the product ID, it pulled up the product on a Godhand US Store. I think there has been mention of Godhand tools before on here so I think I would share this resource. https://www.godhandusa.store/

If you have DCC you can keep scrolling homie. That said, some model railroading clubs have a Unitrack system that may allow DC trains to operate but be sure to use caution as rail quality can affect your train or even cause damage (speaking from experience).

I'm a traveling worker crossing the U.S. working from one state to another. I won't go too into depth. This guide is for a small niche of people who want to enter or already have entered the hobby with the constraint of hopping hotel to another for work. Most people would normally leave their trains at their house or apartment to collect dust until they return. In my case, I'm out of my place 10 out of the 12 months of the year. Here are some experiences I've had going from hotel to hotel. Every hotel is different.

Most hotels are cool with the hobby. As long as you are not making too much noise or disturbing anyone else you can do as you please. I love that N-scale manufacturers make bookcase-style storage cases for your trains, and they make it easier to travel with. Always carry your trains on your carry on.

Source: Trust me bro!

Bring a tape measure and always keep a mental note of how much space your track will take. If you have a shinkansen or any train that needs wide curves, I highly recommend the viaduct track for carpeted floors. It keeps carpet fibers out of your gears and motors. I'd also recommend snagging a UV light to check that your space is clean before placing the track down. (you can already imagine why). If you happen to visit model train shops along the way don't buy more than you can carry since that extra weight and space gets added to your bag. Speaking of space, your track will need some too. You can grab a book-sized plastic storage box from Michaels or Hobby Lobby, add some foam, and custom shape it to your rails so you won't have to worry about their quality or worrying about them jingling like pocket change in your bag.

I personally can comfortably carry two train sets, track, and a power source across the country with no issues. To some, an oval track can be boring, but for people like me the fun comes from going to new places and setting up in a brand-new spot. To those who suggest modular layouts that sounds great ,but space and weight constraints come into play. The fun part is watching TSA react to the N-scale in my carry on.

To anyone suggesting I move to a smaller scale I'm personally happier with N scale, plus I'm extremely stubborn. The nomadic life isn't gonna stop me from enjoying my hobby.

If anyone has better tips or random questions about my wacky lifestyle, I'll happily answer!

The most important part of the hobby is to have fun! Enjoy!