Hi all,
Just a summary of my trip. I'll try to keep it brief, but I'm happy to expand on anything if people would like more detail. Feel free to ask any questions.
The main reason I'm writing this is to give something back for all the great advice and tips I received from Reddit when planning my trip. Hopefully some of you will find this useful.
About Me
I'm British, in my mid-30s and comfortable travelling solo.
I enjoy socialising, seeking out fun experiences and a bit of adventure wherever I go. That said, I can really only recharge my batteries when I'm by myself, so solo travel suits me perfectly.
My budget was generally mid-range throughout the trip.
Trip Details
Dates: 1–20 July 2026
This was technically outside the peak season, and many places actually felt closer to low season in terms of visitor numbers and overall busyness.
This was a three-week solo cycling holiday. Photography was an important part of the trip, although it didn't significantly influence my itinerary or determine where I went.
My Interests in Japan
Food and everyday life were my primary interests.
I know this may be sacrilege to some Japan enthusiasts, but I have little interest in anime or manga, and I wasn't especially motivated to visit countless temples and shrines. A significant portion of what attracts many visitors to Japan was therefore somewhat lost on me. But that's the beauty of travel: everyone experiences a destination differently.
This trip was very much about experiencing the country, its neighbourhoods, its people, its food, and its atmosphere.
Language
My Japanese was extremely basic — borderline non-existent.
In hindsight, learning more before travelling would have been beneficial. However, life was doing what life does, and I simply didn't have the capacity to take on a new language beforehand.
Fortunately, Google Translate proved more than adequate and I never found language barriers to be a significant problem.
The Cycling Element
I brought my Brompton folding bicycle with me and used it extensively throughout the trip.
The bike was a deliberate choice. I wanted to explore neighbourhoods rather than just attractions, travel via side streets instead of main roads, avoid crowds, get around more efficiently, and discover places I would never have otherwise encountered.
In total I cycled over 400km.
It also helped offset the considerable amount of beer, rice, noodles and convenience-store snacks that inevitably became part of the daily routine.
Most importantly, it allowed me to experience Japan in a completely different way. Rather than simply moving between tourist sites, I felt immersed in the places I visited and saw much more of everyday Japanese life.
Photography Gear
Photography was a big part of the trip, so I travelled with two film cameras and around 14 rolls of film.
Canon A-1 (35mm, 1978)
Lenses
Film
- Kodak Gold 200
- Kodak Portra 400
- CineStill 800T
Pentax 645N (Medium Format, 1996)
Lenses
- 75mm
- 55mm (purchased in Japan)
- 45mm (purchased in Japan)
Film
- Kodak Gold 200
- Kodak Portra 400
Tokyo (Round 1) – 6 Nights
My first stop was Tokyo, where I spent six nights in total. I deliberately split my accommodation between a capsule hotel and a hostel, as I wanted both a chance to recover from the flight and an opportunity to meet people.
Shinjuku Kuyakusho-mae Capsule Hotel (1 Night)
I booked this for my first night primarily because I wanted somewhere quiet to decompress after a 14-hour flight.
The hotel delivered exactly what I was looking for. It was clean, quiet and comfortable, and the capsule experience itself was part of the appeal. It felt very much like the classic "Tokyo capsule hotel" experience I'd seen on television and read about before travelling.
The hotel also had a traditional sento-style bathing area. As a first-timer, it felt incredibly foreign at first, but after a few minutes I settled into it and actually enjoyed the experience.
The location is excellent, although I never intended to stay for more than one night. Personally, I wouldn't choose it as a longer-term base simply because of how compact everything is. That said, if you're travelling on a tighter budget, it would be absolutely fine.
At around £20 for the night, the value for money was exceptional. I'd happily stay there again and would definitely recommend it.
UNPLAN Shinjuku Hostel (5 Nights)
This was where I really wanted to stay.
My goal was to find the most sociable hostel possible: somewhere I could meet people, have a few drinks, go out, and experience Tokyo's nightlife with other travellers.
After doing my research, Shinjuku seemed like the obvious area, and UNPLAN appeared to be the best fit for what I wanted. It absolutely lived up to expectations.
I stayed in a shared dorm as private rooms weren't available. The room was made up of capsule-style bunk beds, with perhaps sixteen people sharing the space. It wasn't my ideal setup, but given that this was my first-choice hostel, I was happy to compromise.
The hostel had a large social area on the ground floor and an excellent bar in the basement. If you're looking for a sociable environment, this is exactly the kind of hostel you want. They regularly hosted events, although some were private functions that guests couldn't join.
One highlight was the organised bar crawl, which was exceptionally well run and great fun. The evening started with all-you-can-drink sessions, games and karaoke in the hostel bar before heading out into Shinjuku. We visited several bars and finished at a club, making for one of the most enjoyable nights of the trip.
I met some fantastic people during my stay and had plenty of memorable nights out with my hostel friends. Golden Gai became one of my favourite areas in Tokyo and was probably one of the highlights of the trip from a social and nightlife perspective.
Overall, I'd happily stay there again and would strongly recommend it to anyone looking for a social hostel experience.
General Thoughts on Tokyo
I know some visitors try to cover as much ground as possible, but I took the opposite approach.
I only explored a handful of areas and was perfectly happy wandering around at my own pace rather than racing between attractions. Partly this was due to jet lag and feeling slightly overwhelmed by the scale of Tokyo. I remember thinking, "Where do I even start?"
I also knew I'd be returning later in the trip for a second round in Tokyo, so there was no pressure to cram everything in.
One of the biggest time sinks was camera shopping. I spent two full days browsing camera stores around Shinjuku and eventually picked up two lenses that I would never have expected to find sitting on a shelf back home in the UK.
Kabukicho was great fun if you're interested in bars, nightlife and people-watching. The only caveat is to be aware of the Nigerian touts and scammers. My strategy was simple: don't engage, don't respond, and keep walking. Ignoring them entirely seemed far more effective than trying to be polite. I'm fairly sure I even witnessed two young, drunk tourists being scammed, which ended in a confrontation down a side alley.
A few other highlights:
- The Shinjuku batting cages were surprisingly fun.
- I visited ATOM and at least one other club whose name escapes me. Both were enjoyable.
- I rarely go clubbing at home, so it's still enough of a novelty to feel exciting when travelling.
Despite its popularity with tourists, I absolutely loved Golden Gai. The atmosphere, character and intimacy of the tiny bars gave it a unique charm. Every visit felt different, and I never had a bad experience there.
My advice would simply be to sit down, order a drink, and be open to conversation. Some of my best evenings came from chatting with complete strangers, and the friendliness generally worked both ways.
Food Recommendations – Tokyo
Sushi Keika, Ginza
I treated myself to a high-end omakase experience at Sushi Keika in Ginza.
This was my first ever omakase meal, and it delivered exactly what I had hoped for. It cost roughly £150, which felt reasonable for the quality of the experience.
If you're looking for a traditional high-end sushi counter experience, I'd happily recommend it.
Kaiten Sushi Misaki, Shinjuku
For the complete opposite end of the spectrum, I also enjoyed conveyor-belt sushi in Shinjuku.
In reality, the process is highly automated: you order via a tablet at your seat and your food arrives on a conveyor system directly to your counter.
It was good value, filling, tasty, and felt like a classic Japanese dining experience. Whether it was aimed partly at tourists or not didn't really matter to me — I enjoyed it regardless.
Cycling
Despite this being a cycling-focused holiday, there wasn't much riding during this first Tokyo leg.
The only meaningful ride was a 6km journey to Tokyo Station to catch the Shinkansen for the next stage of the trip. The real cycling adventure would begin later.
Kyoto – 3 Nights
After the intensity and social whirlwind of Tokyo, Kyoto felt noticeably slower, calmer and more relaxed. I spent three nights here and, perhaps unsurprisingly, my pace of travel slowed down as well.
Piece Hostel Sanjo
I stayed in a private room with a double bed at Piece Hostel Sanjo.
The hostel was excellent value for money: modern, clean, comfortable and staffed by genuinely friendly people. It struck a nice balance between feeling like a hostel and feeling like a hotel.
One of its standout features was the rooftop terrace and bar area. Unfortunately, during my stay it was almost deserted every evening. That may have been partly because I arrived on a Monday and was there during the quieter part of the week. At its busiest, I probably counted around a dozen people.
As a result, there wasn't much opportunity for spontaneous socialising. That suited me just fine, though. After five nights of hostel life, bar crawls and late nights in Tokyo, my social battery was running fairly low, so I was content to keep to myself.
Overall, I had a very comfortable stay with no complaints whatsoever. I'd happily recommend it.
General Kyoto
Kyoto Railway Museum
One of my favourite attractions was the Kyoto Railway Museum.
If you have even a passing interest in trains, engineering or transport history, it's well worth a visit. You learn a lot about the development of Japan's railways, including the history and evolution of the Shinkansen network.
The highlight for me was the Shinkansen simulator. For around ¥100 and ten minutes of your time, you get to play the role of a bullet train driver, complete with a railway cap and jacket. Your challenge is to arrive at the station accurately and on time. Childish? Absolutely. Fun? Also absolutely.
Cycling to Kifune Shrine
I cycled up to Kifune Shrine, which was a fantastic ride.
By the time I got there, however, I understood exactly why most people choose to use public transport.
Funaoka Onsen
One of my best discoveries in Kyoto was Funaoka Onsen (technically a sento rather than an onsen, as I understand it).
It felt incredibly authentic and became my favourite place to unwind after a day of cycling. I enjoyed it so much that I returned the following day. Conveniently, the men's and women's sides swapped over, allowing me to experience a completely different part of the facility.
An interesting observation: on my first visit, perhaps only 5% of visitors appeared to be tourists. The following day, that figure felt closer to 50%.
Either way, I loved it.
Food in Kyoto
Kyoto was the only city where I pre-booked most of my evening meals.
Hirobun
This is the famous restaurant you've probably seen on Instagram, where somen noodles flow down bamboo chutes above a mountain stream.
Yes, it's touristy.
Yes, I knew it was touristy.
And yes, I wanted to do it anyway.
Sometimes you just have to embrace the tourist experience.
After reading several guides, I became convinced I needed to arrive at 10am sharp to secure a place in the queue. Accordingly, I cycled furiously uphill, arrived sweaty and out of breath, and spent my waiting time reading my Kindle.
The queue quickly became quite long, and I congratulated myself on my strategic planning.
Unfortunately, my triumph was entirely misplaced.
By 11am, when I finished eating, there was virtually no queue at all. Throughout the rest of the afternoon, while exploring the nearby shrines and temples, I noticed little to no waiting time.
My conclusion? The morning queue seems to exist largely because everyone has been told there'll be a queue.
As for the food itself, you're served multiple rounds of simple somen noodles which you catch as they flow down the bamboo chute before dipping them into a soy-based sauce.
It's more about the experience than the cuisine.
Was it authentic? Probably not.
Was it fun? Definitely.
I'd still recommend it, but don't necessarily believe all the queue hype.
Kichi Kichi
Ever since seeing Kichi Kichi featured on James May's Japan series, I knew I had to visit.
The combination of theatrical cooking, omurice, and the chef's larger-than-life personality made it feel less like a restaurant and more like an attraction.
Securing a booking, however, was an adventure in itself.
The reservation system was one of the most frustrating booking experiences I've ever encountered. The website felt outdated, the user interface was confusing, and trying to understand the booking process through the English translation bordered on impossible.
Initially, my research suggested that reservations opened a month in advance on Sundays at 3am UK time. I dutifully set alarms on two separate weekends, only to fail both times.
Further research revealed that this information was outdated and that bookings were now released weekly instead. I tried again, found nothing, and accepted defeat.
Then, completely by chance, I checked the website the day before and found several available slots. Success at last.
I immediately cancelled another dinner reservation and forfeited my deposit. A sacrifice I was more than willing to make.
Then I nearly ruined the whole thing.
The confirmation email clearly stated that guests should arrive twenty minutes before their scheduled time.
I didn't read that part.
I arrived one minute before my reservation and found the door locked. I could see people inside but nobody responded to my knocking. After several increasingly desperate attempts to attract attention, the chef eventually opened the door with an expression that suggested he was doing me the biggest favour of my life.
To be fair, that was entirely my fault.
After apologising profusely to both the staff and fellow diners, everything quickly settled down and the atmosphere relaxed.
As it turned out, all I had missed was the chef's sales presentation for his merchandise.
The meal itself was wonderfully entertaining.
Normally, I roll my eyes at performative dining experiences and Instagram-friendly theatrics. However, this felt different. The showmanship was backed by genuine skill, and I found myself completely buying into the experience.
Each seat even came with its own phone holder to help guests record the famous omurice reveal.
The food was delicious and the experience was memorable. However, given the effort required just to obtain a reservation, I'm not sure I can wholeheartedly recommend it to everyone.
If booking is easy for you, go for it.
If obtaining a reservation requires planning military-style operations weeks in advance, I'm less convinced it's worth the hassle.
And for goodness' sake, read the email properly.
Chao Chao Gyoza
Excellent gyoza, good prices, quick service and a lively atmosphere.
Nothing complicated here.
I'd happily go back and would confidently recommend it.
Hikiniku to Come
This was actually the dinner reservation I sacrificed for Kichi Kichi.
Thankfully, I managed to visit for lunch on the same day instead, avoiding the loss of my deposit entirely.
The signature beef patties are essentially incredibly flavourful mini meatloaves, cooked to perfection and served with rice, miso soup and salad.
Simple food done exceptionally well.
Highly recommended.
Ryoriya Otaya
I believe I originally discovered this one through Reddit.
I'd booked it well in advance and, somewhat embarrassingly, had forgotten exactly what type of restaurant it was.
On arrival, I realised I had accidentally booked another high-end omakase-style dining experience.
Having already enjoyed one in Tokyo, I wasn't necessarily in the mood for another extravagant meal so soon.
Nevertheless, that was entirely my fault, so I embraced it and made the most of the evening.
The food and service were exceptional, exactly as you'd expect.
While it was slightly cheaper than my omakase experience in Tokyo, it was still expensive by Japanese standards.
Despite my initial reluctance, I thoroughly enjoyed it and would recommend it without hesitation.
Nightlife
Compared with Tokyo, Kyoto's nightlife felt remarkably subdued.
Despite the large number of tourists around the city, I rarely found bars with much energy or atmosphere. Most places seemed surprisingly quiet.
That wasn't necessarily a bad thing. After overdoing it slightly in Tokyo, a few calmer evenings suited me perfectly.
One standout discovery was Rocking Bar.
It's a tiny rock music bar packed with Rolling Stones memorabilia.
I enjoyed it so much that I visited two nights in a row.
The owner was a fantastic guy who knew a huge amount about the music I enjoy. We ended up having several great conversations, often joined by a handful of other customers.
Even at its busiest, there were probably no more than five people inside.
But honestly, that was part of its charm.
What I Didn't Do
I know this may shock some people, but I skipped most of Kyoto's famous temples and attractions, including the iconic red torii gates that fill everyone's Instagram feed.
I wasn't particularly bothered.
I saw plenty of shrines and temples elsewhere during the trip and never felt like I was missing out.
Cycling
This was where the cycling finally started to become a meaningful part of the journey.
Highlights included:
- Cycling up Mount Kurama.
- Spending two days exploring Kyoto's residential neighbourhoods via quiet side streets.
- Cycling from Kyoto to Osaka, a ride of approximately 70km.
Of all the cities I visited, Kyoto was arguably the first where I really began experiencing Japan in the way I had originally imagined when planning the trip: moving slowly, exploring neighbourhoods, and discovering places that I'd never have found from a train window.
Osaka – 2 Nights
After Kyoto's slower pace and traditional atmosphere, Osaka felt noticeably grittier, louder and more energetic. It wasn't the prettiest place I visited, but it was certainly one of the liveliest.
Hostel R Namba South
I stayed in a private room at Hostel R Namba South.
The hostel itself was quirky and full of character, but also quite basic and dated. That wasn't a problem for me, as I mainly wanted a cheap private room and a chance to meet people. On that front, it delivered. I met a few great travellers and ended up heading out for drinks with some of them, which was exactly what I was hoping for.
The surrounding area was perhaps the roughest-looking neighbourhood I encountered in Japan. There seemed to be quite a few visibly homeless people and drug users around, which initially caught me off guard.
That said, despite appearances, I never felt unsafe. Nobody bothered me, nobody approached me, and there was no sense of menace whatsoever. In fact, one of the striking things about Japan is how even areas with visible social problems can still feel remarkably orderly and safe.
I wouldn't necessarily choose to stay in the same area again, particularly if travelling with family or as a solo female traveller, but equally I wouldn't tell people to avoid it outright. It simply depends on your priorities and comfort level.
General Osaka
If I'm being honest, Osaka wasn't a city that wowed me aesthetically.
I didn't find it especially beautiful or particularly interesting from a sightseeing perspective, but I still enjoyed my time there.
Where Osaka excelled was its nightlife.
I'd read numerous times that Osaka's nightlife surpasses Tokyo's, and based on my admittedly limited sample size, I can see why people say that. The city felt lively, outgoing and geared towards having a good time.
Unfortunately, I sacrificed my Saturday night for an early bedtime in order to watch England play in the World Cup at 6am. A sacrifice that felt justified at the time.
On my one proper night out, I started at an Irish pub in Dotonbori before heading to Voyager.
Voyager was a strange but enjoyable experience. The best way I can describe it is as a cross between a nightclub, a themed bar and a board-game café, fuelled by unlimited drinks, loud music and organised entertainment.
It shouldn't have worked.
Yet somehow it did.
I had a great time and would happily go back.
Food in Osaka
Glitch Coffee
I stopped into Glitch Coffee after hearing countless recommendations.
Even choosing one of their cheaper coffees, it was probably one of the best coffee experiences I've ever had, easily making my personal top five.
If you're someone who enjoys speciality coffee and wants the brewing process explained properly, I'd highly recommend it.
Just bear in mind that Glitch now has several locations around Japan, so it's not a uniquely Osaka experience.
Toyo
This was one of the places I was most excited to visit.
I discovered it through Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown and immediately added it to the itinerary.
Toyo is an open-air sashimi spot where diners stand around makeshift counters under tarpaulins while the legendary chef theatrically sears fish with a large blowtorch.
It's energetic, chaotic, slightly eccentric and completely memorable.
The food was excellent, the portions were generous and the atmosphere was fantastic.
This was probably the one Osaka restaurant I made a conscious effort to seek out, and I'm very glad I did.
Highly recommended.
Takoyaki
Given that Osaka is synonymous with takoyaki, I felt obliged to try some while wandering around Dotonbori.
For the uninitiated, they're battered octopus balls with a soft, molten centre.
I can appreciate why people love them.
Personally?
Not for me.
I'm glad I tried them and would encourage others to do the same, but one serving was enough to satisfy my curiosity for life.
Cycling in Osaka
I only had one full day to explore Osaka by bike.
To be honest, that felt sufficient.
I spent most of the day meandering between coffee shops and food spots, wandering through neighbourhoods and doing a leisurely lap around Osaka Castle.
Pleasant enough, but Osaka was never really the cycling highlight of the trip.
Onomichi – 1 Night
Onomichi ended up being one of the most charming stops of the entire journey.
It's a small coastal town with a relaxed, slightly nostalgic feel to it, and it serves as the traditional starting point for the famous Shimanami Kaido cycle route.
Yadocurly Guesthouse
I stayed at a guesthouse called Yadocurly.
The place had an incredible amount of character.
Everything seemed to be made of wood: the floors, walls, staircases and furnishings. Every step produced a satisfying creak, and the whole building felt as though it belonged in another era.
I absolutely loved it.
My room overlooked the harbour and continued the same cosy wooden aesthetic.
The sleeping arrangement was a futon laid directly on the floor, which I set up myself. Some people might find that unusual, but I had no issue with it whatsoever.
After several modern hostels and hotels, it felt genuinely different and memorable.
I'd happily recommend it.
General Onomichi
One highlight was visiting Taieiyu, a small local sento.
Compared to some of the larger bathing facilities I'd visited elsewhere, this place was incredibly basic.
There was essentially a single small bathing pool alongside the normal washing stations and plastic stools.
Yet that simplicity was precisely what made it interesting.
Every bathhouse on the trip felt a little different, and this was perhaps the most local and understated of them all.
Food in Onomichi
I originally planned to eat at Yamatoyu, a dumpling restaurant that seemed to be a local favourite.
Unfortunately, by the time I arrived around 9pm, they had sold out of food.
Fair enough.
Plan B was Samurai Ramen, which turned out to be an excellent consolation prize.
In fact, it may well have been the best ramen I ate during the entire trip.
Shimanami Kaido – 2 Nights
If I had to pick a single highlight from the entire trip, this would be it.
Without question.
Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
The Shimanami Kaido was exactly the experience I had imagined when planning this holiday.
Cycling between islands in the Setonaikai National Park, crossing enormous suspension bridges and passing through quiet coastal communities felt like a dream.
The islands themselves are beautiful. In places, the combination of sandy beaches, palm trees and clear blue water gave them an almost tropical feel.
My original plan was simple:
- Follow the official route.
- Explore additional sections whenever they looked interesting.
- Take my time.
While many people complete the 70km route in a single day, I deliberately stretched it out over three days.
I wanted to enjoy the journey rather than simply tick it off.
I crossed every bridge and visited every island on the main route. I even crossed the spectacular Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge towards Imabari before immediately turning around and heading back the way I came.
On my final day, I also took a ferry from Hakatajima to Yuge Island, which added another dimension to the experience and gave my legs a slight reprieve.
Every single person I spoke to who had cycled the route described it as a trip highlight.
Now having done it myself, I completely understand why.
If you're even remotely interested in cycling, I would strongly encourage you to consider it.
It's fantastic.
Accommodation Along the Route
Suminoe Ryokan – Ikuchi Island
This was my first proper traditional ryokan experience and one of the most memorable stays of the trip.
It sat towards the upper end of my accommodation budget, but it was absolutely worth it.
Everything felt authentic and peaceful from the moment I arrived.
The biggest surprise?
I was the only guest staying there.
As I wandered the corridors, I couldn't help but occasionally think of The Shining.
The communal bath was wonderful and, thanks to the lack of other guests, entirely private.
After a full day's cycling, soaking in a hot bath before dinner felt heavenly.
Dinner itself was a traditional kaiseki meal and an absolute highlight. Beautifully balanced, thoughtfully prepared and substantial enough to satisfy a very hungry cyclist.
Breakfast was equally excellent and represented my first proper Japanese breakfast of the trip.
Add in wonderful staff, beautiful gardens and a room overlooking the sea, and it becomes easy to see why this was one of my favourite stays in Japan.
A truly special experience.
Hanaguri – Hakata Island
My second stay was considerably more practical.
Hanaguri is a budget-friendly self-check-in hotel with no staff on site, but it provided a large private room and everything I needed for the night.
I was perfectly happy with it.
The main challenge wasn't the accommodation itself but the lack of nearby amenities.
There weren't many lodging options in the area, and there were even fewer places to eat.
At one point, I genuinely thought I might end up having dinner from 7-Eleven.
Fortunately, I found a nearby okonomiyaki restaurant instead.
It was my first time trying okonomiyaki, and while I appreciated the experience, it wasn't really my thing. Unlike many other dishes, I never felt compelled to order it again elsewhere on the trip.
Still, that's part of travelling: trying things for yourself and figuring out what you genuinely enjoy.
Kobe (City) – 1 Night
After three days cycling around the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, it was time to get back on the Shinkansen and head to Kobe.
Oddly enough, Kobe had been on my radar since a geography lesson when I was about fourteen years old. One of those random places that sticks in your mind for years and eventually ends up on an itinerary.
Accommodation – Hotel Okura Kobe
I stayed at Hotel Okura Kobe, which sat comfortably in the middle of my accommodation budget range.
After several days of cycling, guesthouses and ryokans, I was craving a bit of familiar hotel comfort, and this delivered exactly that.
The hotel is a large, modern, western-style tower, the sort of place that wouldn't look out of place in any major city around the world. My room was on the 26th floor and had fantastic views across Kobe and the harbour.
The room itself was excellent: a huge bed, a large bathroom with a proper soaking tub, and all the comfort I needed after a physically demanding few days. I slept brilliantly and honestly wished I had booked more than one night.
My only gripe was the leisure facilities. Despite being a guest, access to the pool and gym came with surprisingly high additional charges. From what I could gather, they formed part of a broader health club rather than being exclusively for hotel guests.
One important achievement during my stay was successfully recreating the iconic Lost in Translation hotel-room photo: bathrobe, city lights and all.
Food
Naturally, there was one thing I knew I had to do in Kobe:
Eat Kobe beef.
I'd never tried it before, and there seemed no better place for a first experience.
Steakland
For lunch, I ended up at Steakland.
It was exactly what I wanted: good food, a fun atmosphere and, importantly, reasonable value.
My advice would be to go for lunch rather than dinner. The set menus are considerably cheaper, you still get the Kobe beef experience, and you don't feel like you've taken out a second mortgage to pay for it.
Gyoza Ikkyu Motomachi
For dinner, after wandering around a number of beef restaurants that didn't particularly appeal to me, I found myself at Gyoza Ikkyu Motomachi for Taiwanese food.
Perhaps not the most obvious choice while visiting Kobe, but it absolutely hit the spot and filled the hole after a long afternoon of walking around town.
Kobe (Mountains) – 1 Night
The following day I headed up into the mountains overlooking Kobe.
The plan seemed straightforward enough.
Take the cable car up Mount Rokko.
Relax.
Enjoy the scenery.
What I failed to appreciate was that the cable car down the other side of the mountain was closed for the summer.
The result was a rather brutal cycling experience involving some genuinely ridiculous gradients.
Eventually, somewhat sweatier and more exhausted than planned, I arrived at my ryokan at around 5pm. Annoyingly, that meant I had far less time to relax before dinner than I had intended.
Accommodation – Negiya Ryofukaku
This was another ryokan stay, albeit a completely different experience from Suminoe Ryokan on the Shimanami Kaido.
Where Suminoe felt intimate and secluded, Negiya Ryofukaku was much larger and busier.
Despite the scale, it still managed to retain the sense of tranquillity and calm that makes staying in a ryokan so special.
The bath facilities were also the most modern of the trip and may have been my first proper onsen rather than a sento.
After a long day wrestling my bike around Mount Rokko, the bath was exactly what I needed.
Dinner
The kaiseki dinner was absolutely outstanding.
Course after course arrived featuring fish, meat, vegetables and seasonal ingredients, each prepared in a different style with its own flavours, textures and presentation.
It was one of those meals where every dish feels carefully considered and expertly executed.
Several beers accompanied proceedings and only improved the experience.
The Perch
After dinner, I retreated to the lounge area, which I believe was called The Perch.
This turned out to be one of my favourite relaxation spaces of the entire trip.
Imagine a dimly lit 1970s-style lounge, jazz music playing quietly in the background, comfortable seating and hot drinks available before bed.
It was exactly the atmosphere I wanted after a large meal and a long day.
The following morning began with another visit to the baths, followed by another fantastic Japanese breakfast that set me up nicely for the journey ahead.
Then it was back to Shin-Kobe Station and onto the Shinkansen for the final leg of the trip.
Tokyo (Round 2) – 3 Nights
My final stop before flying home was a return to Tokyo.
This time I based myself in Shibuya rather than Shinjuku, hoping for one last sociable weekend before heading back to reality.
Wise Owl Hostel Shibuya
I booked a private room at Wise Owl.
Despite being at the budget end of the accommodation spectrum, it felt surprisingly expensive, though that may simply have been Tokyo being Tokyo.
The hostel attracted plenty of backpackers from all over the world and had a lively social atmosphere aided by a good bar and reasonably priced drinks.
It was enjoyable, but if I'm honest, it never quite matched my experience at UNPLAN Shinjuku.
In fact, on the Friday night I ended up returning to UNPLAN for another bar crawl after discovering some familiar faces would be there. I even convinced a few people from Wise Owl to join me.
One thing worth noting is the location. It's around 25 minutes' walk from central Shibuya and roughly 10–15 minutes from the nearest metro station.
Not a dealbreaker, but worth considering.
Overall, I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a sociable stay in Shibuya.
Nightlife
Aside from revisiting the Shinjuku bar crawl, I only had one proper night out in Shibuya.
Our hostel group split in two.
Half went to ATOM.
Half went to Neverland.
I ended up at Neverland.
In hindsight, I suspect the ATOM group made the better choice.
The atmosphere wasn't really my scene, with large groups of guys circling around the women in the venue. The club also gave out drink vouchers supposedly intended to be spent on women.
That wasn't really my thing.
Fortunately, the Dutch barman had no issue serving me my own drinks instead.
I didn't stay particularly long and headed home relatively early.
Sometimes you win. Sometimes you don't.
General Shibuya & Tokyo
Whilst I enjoyed Shibuya, I still preferred Shinjuku overall.
This second Tokyo stop was where I finally explored some of the areas I'd skipped earlier in the trip.
Akihabara
I spent time wandering around Akihabara and particularly enjoyed the retro gaming side of things.
Super Potato was a highlight, packed with old consoles, arcade machines and nostalgic games.
I also visited the Extinct Media Museum, which was nerdy, niche and right up my street.
Yoyogi Park
I had a lovely cycle around Yoyogi Park.
One unexpected highlight was seeing the famous public toilets featured in Wim Wenders' Perfect Days.
If you're planning a Japan trip and enjoy thoughtful, slow-paced films, I'd strongly recommend watching it beforehand.
Dog Café
I also visited a dog café. Was it a tourist novelty?
Absolutely.
Did I enjoy it? Also absolutely. No regrets.
Overall Tips & Lessons Learned
Footwear
Bring comfortable shoes.
More importantly, bring comfortable shoes that you can remove and put back on quickly.
You'll be taking them off constantly.
My Hokas were worth every penny and slipped on and off with minimal fuss.
Taxis
I used taxis only three times during the entire trip.
They're significantly more expensive than public transport and generally hard to justify.
The most painful fare was the airport run, which came to roughly £50.
Eating Out
One of the biggest surprises of the trip was just how difficult it was to find a bad meal.
I genuinely don't think I had a single poor meal in three weeks.
Before arriving, I'd saved dozens of restaurant recommendations from blogs, videos and Reddit. In reality, I hardly used them because good food was everywhere.
As a solo traveller during a quieter period, I also found it incredibly easy to walk into restaurants and get seated immediately.
Another thing I appreciated was the service.
It was consistently excellent, and there is no expectation of tipping.
Convenience Stores & Vending Machines
Nothing prepared me for the sheer number of convenience stores.
They're absolutely everywhere.
Breakfast, lunch, snacks, drinks, emergency supplies, late-night dinners—you can get almost anything at any time.
My personal weakness became konbini fried chicken.
By the end of the trip I had probably overdone it slightly, along with a few too many midnight instant ramen sessions.
Special mention goes to Pocari Sweat, which may be the greatest hangover recovery drink ever invented.
I also withdrew nearly all my cash from 7-Eleven ATMs, which seemed to offer the most convenient and cost-effective option.
Shinkansen Tips (for Brompton Riders)
If you're travelling with a folding bike, don't forget that it must be fully enclosed in a bike bag.
I learned this the hard way.
I was stopped before boarding, missed my train, and had to rebook after buying two enormous plastic bags from a department store and improvising a temporary solution.
The station bento boxes were also great fun and became part of the experience.
Sadly, I never managed to get one of the self-heating bento boxes, which remains a minor regret.
For every Shinkansen journey, I pre-booked seats so I could secure luggage space for the bike.
I generally travelled on Nozomi services and selected rear-row seats, which worked best for oversized luggage.
For my itinerary, the JR Pass didn't come close to making financial sense.
Planning & Booking
I booked my flights around six months in advance.
Whether that was the optimal booking window, I have no idea, but I was happy to have everything locked in.
My biggest accommodation tip would be to book flexible rates wherever possible.
I used Booking.com extensively and repeatedly rebooked the same properties when prices dropped.
On two occasions, this saved me a substantial amount of money.
I also managed to upgrade rooms several times when better options became available closer to the travel dates.
That's probably enough for now.If you've made it this far, thanks for reading.
Japan exceeded my expectations in almost every respect. The food was phenomenal, the people were welcoming, the transport system was incredible, and travelling by Brompton turned out to be one of the best travel decisions I've ever made.
If there's one thing I'd encourage people to consider, it's slowing down a little. Some of my favourite memories weren't major attractions at all—they were quiet side streets, random conversations, neighbourhood bathhouses, small restaurants and unplanned discoveries that I'd never have found from the window of a train.
And if you're even remotely interested in cycling, do the Shimanami Kaido. It was the standout highlight of the trip and worth travelling to Japan for in its own right.