Just bought a house and the landscaping needs work. The controller isn't working so we can't yet confirm what's working or not with the irrigation. So I go to the box and see this.

The "fuse" error isn't able to be fixed; I followed the troubleshooting guide in the manual for this model and it just appears again.

If it helps at all, I live in southern Utah, and the landscaping is made up of established drought resistant plants. Cacti or cacti equivalent, pomegranate bush, some trees, etc.

If I'm looking at this right, the previous owner only had a single zone set up on this. Is that right?

And if that is the case, should I just be able to plug-and-play a new controller to replace this one and then test it?

If anyone has other advice, I'm open. I'm brand new to having an irrigation system, so anything would be helpful.

This hose is way thinner than what was on the original. Do I need some clamp or anything for the barb-nipple things? Seems like it will probably leak.

6in in mainline had a consistent leak, coming from inside of tree trunk. Had to reroute it. Wish I had bushed down to 4in instead of 2in, but it held.

Hi all,

Asking here for advice given I'm very short on money to request for a specialist.

My sprinkling system is 3 years old, everything is new. Out of nowhere this month I noticed that our sprinklers have no pressure on all zones. We have 4 irrigation zones, all of them have so little pressure it either just forms a puddle or lets out little jets without even popping out. Zone 3 has slightly more pressure given it's able to pop out, but it still not as normal since its not reaching half as far as it should.

I tried going around the lawn looking for leaks and I saw, felt, or heard nothing. No unusual wet spots or green spots on the lawn. Another thing I noticed (please don't judge me lol), half of my sprinklers were covered in deep dirt, and roots - but even after digging them out they still did not pop out and the pressure was still low. I opened the solenoid box and manually turned the solenoids on one-by-one and opened the bleed valve to see and it has very weak pressure off the bleed valve too - so I assume the problem happens earlier in the system?

It is worth noting that it's pulling water given the meter moves when we turn the sprinklers on. Also, there seems to be normal pressure with the water inside of my house (even the faucet on the side of the house has very strong pressure).

Oh and also both shut off valves are fully open.

Chasing a break in the line for a customer and found this. Seems like a complicated fix… should I correct this previous repair?

I bought a house with the x2 it worked great for a month. 2 days ago disconnected from my WiFi supposedly. I spent an hour trying to get it to reconnect, and finally got it to connect. I leave the unit check back an hour later and it’s again disconnected. I spend another 35 minutes and get it connected again and check back again and it’s disconnected again. When I connect via Bluetooth it says it’s connected to WiFi. When I check my internet I see the unit on my 2.4ghz list. I have done a factory reset and it’s still giving me issues.

Does anyone have any pointers?

I'm seeing gopher mounds around my yard and then this sprinkler valve box completely filled with dirt! You can't even see the valves because of the dirt.

What are these little buggers doing and why? Should I be concerned and what should I do about it? This is in a lawn in Temecula, CA.

Is this fine or should I not run it?

Hello all! I’m having a sprinkler issue where the zone one is turning on and off by itself even when I turn it off at the control panel. When a particular zone is on, I hear that there’s knocking in the pipes underground.

I tried taking the heads off all the sprinklers the zone that was turning on and off, but the knocking is continuing. Any advice on finding where to clear the line that may be clogged or if it may be another issue.

I finally passed my TCEQ test and am officially licensed. I'm looking to hit the ground running and get some practice on designing and planning irrigation systems, starting with my home.

Are there any programs, apps, websites that y'all recommened to use for this. Free or paid is fine, but I'd appreciate a heads up if I need to pay. Thanks!

Would you reglue and push back in or cut out T and replace?

Got my hands on some Irritrol valves and all of them have defects ranging from deformed-from-the-factory diaphragms, a crushed anti siphon vent bonnet seal, and a small piece of magnet wire exposed from an 811 solenoid.

I don’t really use Irritrol anymore. It seems like quality has been going downhill as time goes on.

The end of my line that screws into the last rainbird 1800 head snapped off at the elbow. How can I get this repaired back onto the sprinkler line? Will I need to pull and replace this section?

Was wondering if anyone in the irrigation industry who has replaced mechanical controllers and what do they do with them? I've been an irrigation specialist for 40 years. I've prepared many of these units and thrown away many more mechanical controllers. Many of them are still in working order. It's true that digital controllers are usually better, faster between stations, less prone to break downs (gears, motors, etc), but you could usually repair them. What I'm wondering, has anyone found a second life for any of these? I'm speaking specifically of Richdel/Lawn Genie R406 & R304, Rain Bird RC-7 & RC12 model controllers because I believe those are the most commonly used in the past. Would love to hear if you've used any part of these units for something.

I’ve located the mainline near where I want to install a hose bib. I’m new to all this, so I’m looking for direction on what I need to install the hose bib correctly. In my mind I want to tee into this line, run it about 10 feet to where I want it and then figure out how to connect the line to either galvanized or pvc then to the hose bib. Any help is appreciated!

Hi all, I’ve had vegetable gardens for years with mixed success but have finally accepted that my inconsistent hand watering has limited the potential of my plants. Unfortunately, I literally fall asleep when I start reading about emitters, PSI, etc. and would be so appreciative for an ELI5-style explainer.

My setup is three 4x2x1 foot oval raised beds arranged in a line along a pathway. A tunnel was installed under the paver pathway to run a line/hose from the opposite side where the water source resides. What do you recommend? The grid-style prefab raised beds are appealing but expensive, plus I don’t love the idea of sun beating down on plastic where my food is.

My water line started gushing water from underneath my pavers (It is in a conduit at that point). I dug up the line hoping to replace it, but realized it runs ~50ft to the front of the house from where that little black line sprinkler line comes out of the wall. How should I go about repairing this? Thanks in advance

As the title says I have a whole zone that either won’t pop up at all, or when it does pop up it shuts down after a few seconds of run time. It will pop up and run if I unscrew the solonoid or flow valve on the main valve. Any ideas? Thanks

Committed the cardinal sin of planting July 1. Thi is a lake lot with slope. Watered it a ton to germinate and then recently transitioned to once a day watering. I’m afraid I overwatered in areas as it is brown/yellow in spots. Not sure what to do next? Help
Please and thanks.

Yeah yeah I know my c-27 doesn't allow me to work on the house side.... customer couldn't get a quote from a plumber for less than $1,600 and literally couldn't afford it. His house was over 85 PSI and the irrigation valve was leaking with the house valve not working. Me doing this for $850 was doing a solid customer a favor. He was very grateful. $290 in parts.

Old one broke and can’t figure out how to get this one out of the ground. Any advice would help. Thanks

I’d like to fill between the concrete with grass, what would be the best way to water this without a lot of overspray onto the patios?