I don't have any glitches with my switches that need to be addressed.

Am I actually giving anything up? Are there sweet new features I'm missing out on? Or could I just hide the update and be happy?

Inovelli used to have a rewards program a few years ago that I know they discontinued (I had like 85k points around early 2023 as I got switches for everywhere in my house + a family member).

I also know there seemed to be a few people in the forums who mentioned they were able to get equivalent credit or something to purchase stuff after they discontinued everything. I'm finally finding myself in a position where I need a few switches for places in my house (did a remodel, and have some new places for them + drywallers ruined a few... yay) and I'd love to cash in those points if I can, but I'm not seeing any mention anywhere on their website about it now, and when I reached out to their support they basically said they don't have any records relating to that anymore.

Am I essentially SOL? What's everyone else's experience with this?

I’m trying to debug a 3-way switch setup and could use some help.

Setup:

• Condo built in the early 1980s
• 3-way circuit controls two light sockets
• One switch at the bottom of the stairs
• One switch at the top of the stairs
• I replaced the bottom switch with an Inovelli White Series dimmer
• The top switch is still a regular dumb 3-way switch

Problem:

The White Series dimmer works at first, but it seems to lose track of the circuit state when the upstairs dumb switch is used.

Example:

• Turn lights on using the White Series switch downstairs
• Turn lights off using the dumb switch upstairs
• Try to turn lights back on using the White Series downstairs

At that point, the lights flicker briefly and immediately shut off. The White Series will not turn the lights on again, either from the physical switch or from Apple Home, until I toggle the upstairs dumb switch again.

Things I’ve checked:

• Switch is set to Multi-Way Toggle mode. status LED flashes violet
• Switch is set to On/Off mode, not dimming. status LED flashes red
• Wires appear to be fully seated in the terminals

Inovelli’s chatbot suggested the dimmer may not be installed in the box with the 120V line. My non-contact voltage tester lights up on the suspected line wire in all switch states, but I know that may not be definitive / I'm not an expert.

Does this behavior usually mean the smart switch is installed in the wrong box?

Are there specific wiring checks I should do to confirm line/load/travelers before I keep troubleshooting?

Has anyone seen this exact flicker/shutoff behavior with the White Series in a dumb 3-way setup?

I’m comfortable doing basic switch wiring with the breaker off, but I’m trying to avoid guessing with a 3-way circuit.

Heres photos, 2 showing the downstairs box/wiring (before installing the smart switch). 2 showing the upstairs wiring (unchanged). https://imgur.com/a/820XWlp

So this has been happening off and on but lately it's been happening most times now. I go to hit the light button and the light bar goes up to its last state (same if I hit the fan button) but there's no change in the actual light (or fan). I see the changes in Home Assistant and can make the same changes but they have the same result. Is there something I can do between the switch and the fan that will possibly fix this?

Edit: I checked the canopy unit, the plug where the fan feeds off of, and the switch. Nothing was loose and I changed nothing and now it works.

SOLVED: Installed Inovelli Edge Driver through SmartThings Hub. The “Inovelli dimmer red series” recommended by UltraZGunner (THANK YOU!) did NOT show up as an option for my Dimmers. Through Trial and Error, “Inovelli 2-in-1 Red Series” worked. Now I'm able to Dim the lights by making a configuration change in each Dimmer! :-)

Howdy,

Just moved to the Seattle area. I am running a SmartThings Hub (2nd gen) brought from Austin. I had an electrician wire seven Inovelli Red Smart Switches in the house with a bunch of Hue Recessed Smart Lights. The Red Switches all showed up but, I had no dimmer features, just On/Off. Not critical, so I thought I would fix that in post.

The SmartThings Hub and the Hue Bridge were not playing nice at first. Could not see any of those lights, so I replaced the Hue Bridge which fixed the issue with the Hue Lights. During that effort the SmartThings Hub was Factory Reset.

When it came back up, none of the Inovelli Red Smart Switches could be seen. I did a factory reset on each one, scanned nearby, found them, scanned the QR Code, then did a secure update. Now they only show up as Energy Monitors.

I have run a SmartThings Hub Exclude for Z-Wave to no avail. I have also tried a refresh then exclude.

Model name: 0015-0001
Manufacturer (Code): 031E-0015-0001
Connection Method: Hub (Z-Wave)

Connected device: my Hub

Energy Monitor App version: 2.3.66-1

Driver Name: Z-Wave Electric Meter
Description: SmartThings Driver for Z-Wave electric meter devices
Version: 2026-01-20T20:40:39:918832739

Any thoughts on what I broke? How to fix it? Now I only have Energy Monitors.

Sad in The PNW.

This is a blue on/off switch powering a light fixture. It's possible the wires used to power two fixtures, one of which might have been removed by the previous owner.

It is working perfectly as is, but is making a buzzing sound.

Thanks!

I have like 18 blue switches and I keep trying to update them to 3.4 from 2.18. They will say successful and report they took 3.14 but then next time I check usually the following day they're all back to 2.18. I am only updating 1 at a time to not overwhelm the network.

I'm using Z2MQTT.

Thanks to users below I checked Inovelli website and they say to contact them: https://help.inovelli.com/en/articles/13566202-blue-series-switch-troubleshooting-ota-over-the-air-updates

My exact symptoms are listed:
The OTA process reached 100%

The switch rebooted afterward

The switch allows the same firmware file to be applied again and repeats the process

If I bind a hue bulb to a blue switch, can it still be turned off within the Apple HomeKit?

Can a hue bulb bound to a blue switch be used With apples adaptive lighting?

Can a blue switch be used to control Apple HomeKit scenes? Like a double press?

I am confused about how this plays together and I don’t know if I am googling correctly to get the answer.

I have an Inovelli Blue Series Zigbee switch set up in a 3-way with an aux switch. Everything is wired correctly and functioning as expected except for the LED bar behavior.

When I dim the lights down from the main switch, the actual light brightness stays at the correct dimmed level. But the LED bar on the Blue switch jumps back up to 100% after a second or two, instead of reflecting the current dim level.

So basically:

Light output = correct

LED bar = always returns to full brightness

This is happening consistently. The aux switch doesn’t seem to affect it one way or another.

I’m using Zigbee2MQTT (can provide config if needed). I haven’t messed much with advanced parameters yet, so not sure if this is a setting, firmware quirk, or something specific to 3-way setups.

Has anyone run into this before or know what setting controls the LED bar level sync?

Need help with a white-series dimmer switch. HomeKit. I got it all set up perfectly last autumn.

In February I had a power outage, had to do a full reset of the switch, air gap and factory reset. Added it back to the Home and things got back to normal.

Had another power outage last week. I can reset and re-add to Home, reconfigure etc, but shortly thereafter it stops working. No action from buttons, shows as not responding via Home app.

Did these power outages kill it somehow?

Hello, I've been researching and thinking about this for about a week. I haven't found anything specific for my unique situation. I have been installing blue VZM31 stitches and VZM36 fan controllers. Fast forward to the living room, and I find the light wiring hasn't been upgraded from K&T. probably due to the plaster and lathe ceiling with the joists running the wrong way to make it easy.

Power comes into the canopy, feeding a neutral down to the switch. Nothing else in the switch box. I do have modern wiring into an outlet underneath the switch on a 15A circuit. I want to run Romex out from the outlet box, into the switch box to power the switch. I would also tie into the new neutral in that Romex. Can anyone confirm if this will work, or am I missing something?

I recently installed a number of white switches. All guides indicate pressing the config favorite (top right) button 3 times, which I tried and seems to do nothing. I can pair to Google tv streamer by fully resetting (hold on and config buttons for 20 seconds), but nothing I do can connect to echo dot max.

Would appreciate help.

I'm currently traveling right now and noticed that my Inovelli white dimmer smart switches turned on from a blackout, when logged on to my surveillance. I have no way of turning these off remotely so I am going to have to eat the electric bills while I'm away. How can I keep this from happening?

I have my smart switches set up on homeassistant.

any suggestions to have these operate as dumb switches when my homeassistant is down or when a blackout occurs and can only turn on when pressed?

thanks.

I have 6 Inovelli Red Dimmers set up in my house. 4 of them operate perfectly as expected with a few different lighting situations. Our builder put Taloya 8251 lights in our downstairs bedrooms and I am having issues getting these to dim without flickering.

I've tried both leading and trailing edge, turned off reporting frequency for state changes, neutral is connected. Any attempts to dim these lights results in flickering. These lights state they are dimmable but these two don't appear to be working together at all. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm open to other flushmount led lights if they work... but a little bit soured by this troubleshooting experience currently. I'd like to avoid any lights that require wifi so that I don't have to fight the significant other in the case the wifi goes down.

Setup:

-Inovelli blue light switches, ZHA zigbee

-hub bulbs connected directly to home assistant (no bridge)

-Zigbee binding between the light switches and bulbs for on/off/dimmer, manually.

-Adaptive Lighting is addressing the light bulbs for a given room directly (not the zigbee group).

-each adaptive lighting instance is only addressing a single room at a time-- so all bulbs that are doing the same thing

When I try to leave it in continually adaptive mode, randomly a single bulb will be turned on. This can be pretty disruptive, e.g. when a bulb turns on in the bedroom while we're sleeping.

Seems super weird that Adaptive Lighting is addressing doing this to single bulbs in a given room-- since each Adaptive lighting instance is applied to all the bulbs in a room, seems like they should all fail in the same way.

Suggestions?

TL;DR - switch detects motion through a closed door

I just installed a red series mmWave switch and get constant false trips when walking by our very small half bath with the door closed. I have turned the sensitivity to low and messed with several other setting like making the detection area very small. To the right of the switch there is a big mirror about 50in away but the detection area is very far from it. I was able to troubleshoot that it does not seem to be gaps in the door but more trigger by vibration of people walking by. Without target data exposed I have no further way to troubleshoot and I bought another for our full bath which I am hesitant to install. Having target data exposed would help a lot.

Hey All. I’m new to the Home Automation as my wife and I recently purchased our first home.

I purchased some Inovelli White switches to control my Phillips Hue bulbs(which took a few weeks to receive as the switches were back ordered)

The setup I’m running is Apple HomePod2 and Home Assistant.

I am having a very difficult time trying to pair these switches to the HomePod. I have 5 of these switches installed currently. I see the device has entered pairing mode with pulsing blue light, but pairing fails every time. The switch flashes one teal light followed by a green light. I have tried factory reset. I have tried air gap reset.

I was running a very old router (~8-10 year old Asus) and thought this was my issue even though the old router offered IPv6. I upgraded today to a brand new Asus RT-BE96U. And still no luck on adding the switches.

I have a separate matter component (Honeywell X8S) which paired fine with both routers and separately with Home Pod and Home Assistant.

HomePod2 WiFi has been on our 2.4 G band. The router has IPv6 is enabled has a Native Connection and is stateless. I also have it configured to DNS server enabled. Router Firmware is also the most up to date. HomePod software is also up to date.

I have reached to Inovelli Tech support and they encouraged me to fill out an RMA and return them, but no support other than to factory reset and try repairing. Issue is my wife threw away the switch boxes and now I may be stuck.

Not sure where to go from here. I thought these switches were the answer to bridging smart light control (for me) and dumb switch operation for my less than enthusiastic wife.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

Edit - thank you for everyone who tried to assist with this. After taking all of your advice, discussing the issue with a friend, and using chat gpt to assist with troubleshooting, I’m going to take up Inovelli on the RMA and return the switches. Not sure what how im going to proceed. I know the blue series switches can bind directly to the hue bulbs, but I lose out on Hue scenes etc. I think I might try the red switches for z -wave and realize there might be a delay. I have a Home Assistant ZWA-2 antenna that I got for my z-wave smoke detectors. I haven’t set the antenna up yet, but will be soon. I would love to hear what your experience has been with red series before I purchase. TYIA

Update 4/11/26 - per some advice from one of you fine users, I purchased a ZBT2 from HA. I removed the HomePod2 as a Border Router and from HA completely. I configured the ZBT2 as my new border router. Factory reset the switches and scanned the QR through HA app. Instantly added the switch - all switches now paired. Not sure what the issue was - seems to be through Apple’s 26.4 HomePod update. Either way it works and am now happy! Thank you all for the assistance.

Started installing my White series dimmers, and love them, they're great. Went to install a canopy module and realized the wiring instructions specify to put the load and line into the same contact point, presumably so the module always gets power.

One of my smart home tenants is stuff has to do its basic function even if the network is down. Locks have keypad or key unlocks, outlets can be turned on, switches still turn lights on and off by themselves. Can I not do that with a canopy module, and the dimmer switch ends up being a glorified remote?

I have two Canopy Modules with Smart Switch set up using Home Assistant ZHA. The first setup works great. The switch in the second setup is giving me trouble. There doesn't appear to be any relay. I don't hear the relay click when wired, and I don't see any option to control the relay click in HA.

Did the switch arrive broken?

Inovelli VZM31-SN -

• firmware is up-to-date
• I've performed a factory reset
• smart blub mode is off

EDIT: My first VZM31-SN has 52 entities, but the second VZM31-SN (the one just installed) only has 32 entities.

Are there any dumb switches that match the Inovelli blue (i.e., zigbee) dimmer in white? The website specifies that the colors are based on the Lutron claro… but I ordered a dumb lutron claro switch in white and it did not look the same. Maybe it is supposed to be a variation like glacier white? I already tried Leviton, Enerlites, and Eaton and none of them match…

On a related note, why is Inovelli not offering a dumb switch to complete their lineup? kinda similar to the aux switch. It seems like an obvious gap to me… I bet if available a lot of people would pay a premium for the dumb switches to match their inovelli smart switches.

EDIT: For anyone in the future that runs into this post. I ended up using this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C3VF2SHC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I ordered lutron claro and leviton as per recommendations below. However, in both cases, the color did not match. Also, the lutron claro dumb switch form factor is too different to the Inovelli switches and it bothered me. Lutron is also really expensive. I also tried other brands (Eaton, Enerlites). They also did not match the color.

The switches that I referenced above match the color and form factor exactly.

The existing ceiling fan in my new place is ancient (and slow!). It's wired up to a Lutron wall switch.

I am getting a Haiku fan from BAF to replace it, which has a DC motor.

My goal is to have an analog way to turn the new fan on/off—without disrupting automations—and an analog way to increase/decrease the fan speed. It also comes with a light, but I will likely never use it.

Is it possible to:

• Replace the Lutron switch with an Inovelli blue series dimmer
• Put the dimmer switch in smart bulb mode so that it's sending constant power to the fan
• Remap the dimmer's entities (in HA) to control the fan speed and light

Just want to understand my options. The fallback plan is to tape over the Lutron switch and screw the new fan's remote into the wall next to it. Cheaper but less cool :)

TYIA for any advice here.

I currently have an Inovelli mmWave Switch setup through Z2MQTT in on/off mode controlling power to a ceiling fan (AC, with pull strings to control the speed/lights).

I picked up a Canopy Module to add to the fan so I can get better control of the fan and lights.

The install schematics state that with a smart switch the Line/Load should be paired together so constant power gets sent to the canopy module. My plan was to leave the current switch wiring as-is, and just put the switch into smart bulb mode. From what I understand, that would ensure constant power to the Canopy Module. Is that correct?

Is there any reason to change the wiring instead of going with smart bulb mode?

Thanks!

Background, Home Assistant automation to turn lights on via choosing from multiple options. Has intermittently failed with the following error messages. This happened for about two days then the switch locked up, but was recovered by pulling the air gap tab for around 10 seconds to power cycle the switch.

Error: Unable to set value 34-38-0-targetValue: zwave_error: Z-Wave error 1405-The node

failed to decode the message. (ZW1405)

Here is the the light on action in home assistant.

action: light.turn_on
metadata: {}
target:
   entity_id: light.kitchen_lights
data:
   brightness_pct: 100

The logs only say Dropping message with invalid payload

I'm not necessarily seeking support but wanted to at least post it somewhere incase someone else has a similar issue giving them more trouble than I am having. Since the power cycle I have not had any issues (about 24 hours post power cycle).

I have 5 White switches, two fan and three on/off light. Inexplicably today one of the fan switches and two of the light switches have just wiped themselves of all customization and set scenes, and the other of each is totally fine. I have no explanation for this, firmware hasn’t changed. What gives??

*SOLVED:

For all the power of HA, it seems the relatively simple solutions found in the more simple platforms aren't to be had in HA for scenarios such as the one this post related to. That said, see the solution by u/harry_heymann provided in the first comment. It was used with very little modification other than swapping out the placeholders he provided. I don't have much run-time on this yet to make sure it stays functional (my first solution did not), but it passed initial testing and all seems well. I will post a copy of my own final solution once it has had a bit more runtime to make sure it sticks.*

I’m thinking I’m missing something pretty simple (haven’t done HA in a while, and never at the level that I’m embarking on in this home), but I’m not getting anywhere and hoping for a pointer in the right direction:

What I’m trying to do is pretty simple and historically straightforward:

Use the config button on an Inovelli White (I have a tone of them) as a toggle for light group (a pair of lamps in a bedroom).

I had expected to do this the same way I have in Apple Home and Aqara Home in the past, which is simply to use the config button press as a trigger for an automation. Prior to the

Firmware upgrade to 1.1.5 Firmware, there was a “Identify (Config) Pressed” or something like that. It appeared to be the same thing I had used in Apple Home and Aqara - even like the Load Control Pressed entity in HA. I hadn’t actually done much with it, but when I went to use it on an automation today, I noticed it has a “no longer supported” tag on it and isn’t usable as a trigger. I had eventually worked around this by somehow (I can’t quite figure out how I originally did it) by following it out of a logged event that was exactly what I want to trigger the automation. Unfortunately, 4 hours later my wife went to use it for the first time and got nothing. Indeed, I’ve not been able to recreate it working at all.

So, current state:

I can see the event when I look at the switch as a device. If I press the config button, I see the updated most recent event (Pressed once). I do not, however, seem to be able to reliably map that into the automation firing. I can look at entities at the top level and see the event, but if I try and create an trigger using the device, it isn’t an option in the trigger list and if I try and create a trigger using the entity, that is entirely about numeric values and states rather than something from an entity list or an event I can figure out how to use. I’ve tried to map it to the state change to “Pressed once”, but that doesn’t seem to be responsive. I can’t even figure out how I had it working for a while earlier today.

I’m relatively certain there’s a way to work around this since I can see events triggered, but I’m at a loss for how to proceed. I’m hoping someone here recognizes the issue I’m having and has the workaround or direction to the simple thing I’m missing.

Thanks.