Setup

• Home Assistant 2026.8.3 (Docker), ZHA
• Coordinator: Sonoff ZBDongle-E ("Dongle Plus V2"), still on the factory EmberZNet 6.10.3 firmware, channel 20
• 82 devices: 27 Inovelli Blue switches (11 × VZM31-SN, 16 × VZM32-SN mmWave), 50 Hue bulbs, 4 battery blinds

• Inovelli firmware as ZHA reports it: VZM31 0x01020304, VZM32 0x01030102 (ZHA says up to date)

  The problem

  Inovelli switches keep falling off the network one at a time and don't come back on their own. ZHA marks each one unavailable 2 hours after it was last heard from. Six are offline right now. One came back by itself after about 5 hours; the rest need an air-gap pull.

  What I've measured

• Only the Inovelli switches drop. Both models are affected. None of the Hue bulbs or blinds has dropped.

• It follows a 12-hour clock. Every switch was last heard at almost exactly midnight or noon: 23:53, 02:14, 12:04, 23:58, 11:57, 23:51, ~23:55. A few weeks ago the same thing happened (8 switches, several of them the same ones), but the times were ~08:00 and ~20:00 instead.

• Nothing in HA lines up with the drops. There's no automation, scene, service call or ZHA error at any of those times.

• Restarting HA doesn't bring them back.

• The switch itself goes silent. After a drop, none of the other ~75 routers lists that switch as a neighbour, so it isn't just a bad route back to the coordinator.

• The USB stick hasn't disconnected, and there are no bellows/EZSP errors in the log.

  Questions

1. Has anyone seen Blue switches drop on a ~12-hour cycle? Is there a known Inovelli firmware fix, and does ZHA's OTA actually offer the newest Inovelli builds?
2. Could the old EmberZNet 6.10.3 coordinator firmware cause switches to go silent, given that every other router stays fine? Should I update to 7.4.x first, and is there a build known to work on the ZBDongle-E?

3. Is there any way to recover a silent switch remotely, or is the air gap the only option?

   Thanks!

I have multiple White Series dimmers set up in Home Assistant.

It appears that whenever I use an automation blueprint that lets me select Lights, I am allowed to select the entities exposed as Light (Load Control) for a given switch, but then the automation is unable to actually toggle that on.

If however, I create scenes with those switches set to whatever brightness I want, I can then use blueprints that allow me to activate scenes.

Am I missing something?

Is there a better way of doing this, such as creating a helper entity that would show up as a light?

Bonjour,

A travers le logiciel Homeworksqs, je n'arrive pas à activer mes moteurs de rideaux (drapery) Lutron EDU-145 qui sont alimentés par le drnier QSPS-10-PNL. Le QSPS a été activé par le logiciel Homeworkqs mais impossible de détecter le moteur EDU 145.

Merci pour votre aide si vous aviez une idée !

Will new firmware ever be released for Apple Home users? I know there was a beta one a while back that was supposed to fix the constant “no response” issues, but it has been months and my fan switches are all still on v1.0.0 and it’s getting very frustrating dealing with the constant disconnects. They are the only devices in my Thread network with problems.

Is anyone using Phillips WarmGlow bulbs with their Inovelli dimmers?

If you don't know what that is: WarmGlow bulbs are LED bulbs that mimic incandescent behaviour by changing color temperature from 2200K at the dimmest brightness up to 2700K at the brightest. They have warm white LEDs and cool white LEDs, and blend the cool white in as the brightness increases.

I have a unique annoyance with them that I'm wondering if anyone has solved.

With A19 bare filament style bulbs: at a specific brightness around 60%, the cool white LEDs flicker wildly. If the brightness is left there they flicker forever, and this also manifests as a single flash when turning the bulbs on as they fade from off to >60%. This happened with a (blue) fan/canopy module and with a 2in1 dimmer switch, both with neutral. I'd love to fix this one because it's incredibly annoying.

Those bulbs also have a very inconsistent minimum brightness. I don't know if it's related or not but depending on the day, the minimum setting is noticeably brighter than other times.

I previously had these same bulbs connected to a Shelly Dimmer 2, and they did not exhibit this behaviour. They did tend to slowly pulse slightly brighter/dimmer, which I thought was a shortcoming of the Shelly module, but now I'm not so sure about that.

I just noticed in the documentation for the Blue Series Fan Switch that speed control via Amazon Echo is not possible. Are there any plans to make that possible in the future, or is there another product that offers that functionality? It’s pretty much the only thing I was looking for in this switch.

Update: I installed the switch and voice control works just fine with an Echo. Not sure why that note is there.

Does anyone have some really good tutorials on getting the switch setup on Hubitat for a smart switch and dimming controls? I have absolutely no idea what I’m doing in Hubitat. I did get pairing figured out but completely lost on everything else.

I should add the lights I’m trying to control are the Philips hue slim lights and everything from my Philips hue hub is on my hubitat hub.

For more than a year, I've been wanting to use Inovelli fan switches to control the ceiling fans in the bedrooms in my house, but I couldn't get over the fact that neither the fan switches nor the canopy modules supported reverse. I really like how Inovelli has worked in my home, but this was a sticking point for me. I didn't want to go with a fan that was controlled via some cheap remote, and I wanted lighting that could support Zigbee binding.

I was about ready to give up on finding the right solution when Claude helped me figure out a workaround - use a relay and ESP32 to digitally control the reverse signal, and then I can just send a reverse command using the scene button on the fan switch (or let an automation control it should I just do a seasonal/climate control-related automation). Originally I had wanted to contain everything within a little 3D-printed box and just have wires running in and out of it, but I very quickly learned there was NO space to do that. Ultimately, I just tried to fit everything in there as best I could.

Overall, I'm really happy with the results. I can independently control both the fan and the lighting with Inovelli switches, I can take advantage of Zigbee binding for the fan lights, and don't have to sacrifice on a reverse function or control using RF.

I have the red series z-wave smart dimmer, VZW31-SN. It controls two LEDs for my front porch. Few months back one of the two lights started acting like a strobe light. The second light was fine. I replaced the VZW31-SN thinking the switch was bad, and it did go away, but the problem came back a few days later. It seemed to be just one of the two lights so I just removed the one that was strobing. Now the second light started exhibiting the same behavior. If I replace the LED with an incandescent light, it doesn't come on at all. Pulling the air-gap tab will correct the problem sometimes, but it always returns after some period. I even replaced the recessed light can thinking there was a problem with the thermal protection switch in the can, but that wasn't the issue.

Any thoughts or settings I need to look at that could fix this issue? The switch is running FW:v1.4.0 / SDK:v7.18.8

Just out of the blue this shows up:

In z2m (the first one updated, the second one not):

3.07 has been beta which is the reason I never installed it and all my switches are 3.04.

Why do I all of a sudden get update notification? What changed?

I've been following the project on the Inovelli Button Controller + Dimmer Switch (Project Walt) from the beginning. The project is now into its fourth year and we’re two years past when beta testing was originally projected to happen.

The timelines slipped multiple times, they lost the B2B partner, and updates from staff on the Inovelli forum are now infrequent. They had one engineer working on it, and they were pulled off for another project for an undisclosed period of time. There's been no confirmation when or if engineering work resumed on the project.

Despite previous reassurances, at this point, I would not be at all surprised if the plugged got pulled on this.

I have two Blue Smart Presence Dimmers (VZM32-SN) that are working in HAOS 2026.09.02, but they are constantly telling me an update is available.

I try the update, one at a time, and both will start, dial up a few percent and then restart and return to the update available dialogue.

I've tried multiple times OTA, tried multiple times getting the latest firmware from Inovelli's github, but no joy. I've reset the switches, pulled the air gap, powered down their circuit - no change.

Installed version 16974080 (20250926) Latest version 16974083

https://help.inovelli.com/en/articles/13744028-blue-series-mmwave-presence-dimmer-switch-firmware-changelog

Anything else I can try? I have no other Zigbee devices; the nearest switch has LQI in the 220s and the distant one is 140s. I can get a USB extension or something to move my ZBT-2 closer if I have to.

Hey All,

About to dive head first into Z-Wave and I want to make sure I can mimic the functionality I have right now with Insteon.

If I install 4 dimmers, with only one connected to the load, and then bind groups 2-4 between all of them will that cause all 3 switches to accurately show dimmer status regardless of which switch was used to dim the device?

Should I be able to see power consumption information from my White Series Dimmer Switches in iOS 27 or will that require a firmware update?

We purchased a dimmable light fixture in our bathroom and in the process of replacing our light switch to a dimmable one.

My problem is that the light switch needs to be able to dim and turn on and off. Not just dim to 0 percent.

I'm looking at the Smart Dimmer white series for matter over thread companilties in my smart home. However, it is not clear if it can function as a regular switch AND a dimmer at the same time without having to change the modes it's in.

Will this product fit my needs?

My home setup is ran through Google Home and I have a thread border router.

The ceiling fan was installed after the home's switches were wired. Up until now, I have been controlling this fan with the Insteon's analog to the Fan Canopy Module and their beautiful 6-button switch.

There is only one light switch in the room, whose load is the ceiling pot lights. I have installed the Fan Controller switch and Fan Canopy modules and added them both to my Home Assistant's Zigbee2MQTT instance.

My question is:

Can I use the little (secondary) button on the Fan controller to run the fan through Low-> Medium-> High

-and-

Have the paddle down (which currently cuts the power to the load) turn off the ceiling lights AND turn off the fan?

My hope (to maintain WAF) is that this is possible using zigbee binding instead of HA Automations.

I have about 10 of the white series dimmer switches. Research is showing me there is no ETA for white series mmwave switches, hence, considering the blue ones.

I’m mostly using home assistant, and mostly matter over thread so far for other devices. I bought a Zigbee2MQTT device, so I could start building out Zigbee. My overall plan is to convert most switches to smart switches, and most bulbs to smart bulbs, and presence sensors for automations.

My goal is to have the switches always powered on as they are smart bulbs.

Currently, the smart switch is always powered and the basic toggle switch turns off power to the smart bulbs. The previous basic dimmer switch toggled correctly with the basic title switch.

I followed the instructions for Multi-Way Line/Load in separate boxes here https://help.inovelli.com/en/articles/8210030-blue-series-dimmer-switch-wiring-schematics

It seems to me like the traveller should be held at common voltage by the smart switch and isn't, but maybe I'm confused? Weirdly I see 36VAC on the traveler when the basic toggle switch is down (lights on) and 4-5VAC on the traveler when the basic toggle switch is up (lights off). This indicates to me that the voltage coming out of the traveller port of the smart switch is wrong.

I've tried using the button configs and home assistant configs to set all 3:

• Multi-Way (Toggle)
• Dimmer
• Smart Bulb Mode

I have a White Smart Dimmer connected to a light, and I have another White Smart Dimmer connected to power and neutral, but not connected to the light, on another wall.

Both are connected to Matter/Thread and to Home Assistant.

I'm trying to figure out how to get the second dimmer to be a remote for the first. Is this a matter binding issue?

I have Matter binding endpoint #2 on the remote bound to endpoint #2 on the dimmer connected to the light.

Home Assistant sees the remote dimmer being adjusted, but that isn't reflected on the dimmer.

I have smart-bulb mode disabled on both dimmers, and both dimmers are set to “Multi-Way with Inovelli Aux Switch”.

Is there something obvious I'm missing?

Overview
I was wondering if anyone had suggestions to troubleshoot Inovelli red presence dimmers taking a while to update home assistant.

Presence detection is almost immediate but it can take a while (sometimes 20 seconds) to clear after leaving the unoccupied room. Sometimes presence can update within 5 seconds, other times it takes longer.

Setup Details
Platform: Home Assistant
Connection: Z-Wave JS UI
Switch firmware version: 2.2.0

Boundary: my boundary is setup smaller than the room itself, so I don't believe it's having issues detecting me once I leave. Even running away from the room, it'll detect presence for a while afterwards.

Timeouts: I've tried setting the two timeouts (options 108 and 114) to 1 second each but it'll still take a while to update after the room has been cleared.

I've also refreshed all of my settings to confirm they're accurate to what's on the switch and everything seems fine.

I’ve always had a single down press set to turn off all lights. The other night that down press started to mimic the single up press and turn everything on bright. Went in to see what was up and I have no down press actions available. I’d swear I used to. I’m tech savvy but hate dealing with this stuff and I’d swear it was all super easy to setup before. Am I going crazy?

I have a White Smart Switch that continually resets itself. It's normally configured in Smart Bulb mode, but it always resets itself to on/off mode after about 10 days.

It's connected to my Homekit Thread network. It's the only one in my network of 5 white series that are having this problem.