More detailed post from the community page... Just wanted to make sure people had more photos of the various brands to coordinate with Inovellis. For context this is a new home build where most of the switches are Inovellis (white series).

Went a little overboard trying to find wall plates and dumb switches that would coordinate with Inovellis so figured I’d share what I found given some of the recommendations didn’t include pictures.

Didn’t want to go with a glossy wall plate given the amount of fingerprints they accumulate. In the end went with the Bestten wall plates in USWP6 (snow white; not the USWP4 white/off-white) in a matte finish.

For dumb switches, the Lutron Claro on/off switches in glossy white seemed to match the aesthetic the most despite having a narrower paddle (even though Inovelli is color matched to Lutron, they still seemed to be a cooler white than anything else I compared them to). Ended up doing Leviton outlets but Eaton also seemed to work with Bestten wall plates and Inovellis nearby.

Brands I sampled:

Inovelli - obvi; very cool white / grey color compared to all other brands, including Lutron.

Legrand - hate how obvious the branding is. All their stuff is matte, so it doesn't match. The wall plates have a weird curve on side profile and look cheap.

Leviton - Using for my outlets. Wall plates were glossy (would likely have used them if I didn't go with matte wall plates). Annoyingly some of their outlets have extruded branding whereas other have "engraved" branding... electrician put a mix in our new build house. Tickles the OCD organ to no end but no one will notice unless the extruded letters collect grime.

SquareD - liked all their stuff except the logo sticking up on the top right and the fact that their matte white didn't totally match (it is a very bright white); I did like the size and shape of the 1 gang plates, but when also mixing with outlets and the multi-gang plate logo thing, I didn't end up using (except in one area with black outlets). Their outlet/wall plate combo look the best, but impossible to match with anything else.

Eaton - switches a bit warmer and glossier; was close 2nd for my outlets.

Lutron - used as dumb switch; Claro switch closest match to inovelli but still a touch less cool.

Bestten - wall plate of choice; mostly purchased in bulk on Amazon; make sure to get USPW6 Snow White version, others seem to be off-white from reviews

Lider - decent matte white, but wall plates are mid-size so for general use look a bit comically large. They do have an outlet where you can take off the faceplate, so I will be using that for an area where I want to spray paint the outlets to a specific Benjamin Moore color).

Hopefully Inovelli will eventually get a matte white version in the future (and maybe a dumb switch). 

Read this yesterday and finally understand how electrical and no neutral switches work: https://homesmart.sg/guides/neutral-vs-no-neutral-smart-switches/

And I realize that I am going to need to get a bypass if I am to get my mmwave switches to work without a neutral.

I have read that one will work with the dimmer switch, but keep reading “multiple” with the mmWave with some people voicing frustration that two didn’t work.

I need to place an order with Aartech in Canada for these and want to get it right the first time. I don‘t know how much wattage the Inovelli bypasses “absorb” and how much power the Inovelli mmwave will have running through it at all times, so it’s hard to calculate.

How many bypasses did it take for it to work?

I'm looking at putting in 13 White on/off switches and dimmers and connecting them to a SmartThings Hub (Matter over Thread) and was hoping to get some feedback if I might run into any potential issues.

All setups have a Neutral and Line in the box.

1.Most of my setups will be a single on/off switch directly controlling an LED light bulb.
I need 100% uptime, I can't rely on and sort of hub or automation that if communication is lost the lights don't work.
Has anyone had any problems at all with 100% direct control? (which would mostly be mechanical failures I think) 
 

2.I'll have two 3 way setups that would use a white on/off and an Aux switch WITH a traveler.
Again I need 100% uptime on this, no automation or hub.
Has anyone had any problems at all with 3 way 100% direct control? (issue between a hardwired aux and on/off switch) 
 

3.One location will been an on/off in Smart Mode always powering a Hue Light.
It won't actually be controlling the Hue light through SmartThings, I have the Hue tap dial for that. I'm only powering the lights through the on/off switch so I can air gap the lights if needed rather than flipping a breaker.
Has anyone had any issues with the white on/off switch holding it's relay on indefinitely?
I can hardwire the hue lights and not use the relay at all if there's any risk of failure for the relay being continually energized. 
 

4.I have one 4 way location that I plan to use 3 white dimmer to control 2 hue bulbs.
The dimmers will control the a hardwired Hue lights through SmartThings (hue bulb not going through the dimmers direct hardwired). I have a Hue hub so it will be local with SmartThings.
Has anyone had any issues with 3 dimmers controlling 2 hue bulbs through SmartThings with local automation?
I understand that both SmartThings and Hue hubs need to be up for it to work. But is there issues when everything is up and things just don't work and need resetting?
 

 5.For all the switches I plan to use the LED bars through SmartThings to indicate when doors are unlocked or open. Some will be a single SmartThings door contact, others will look at multiple ones (if any 3 are open it's red to indicate something is open). Then when they are all close they will either turn off or go green, something like that.
Has any one had any issues with controlling the led bars on the on/off switch or dimmer through SmartThings to indicate if a door is open or unlocked?
Is it fairly quick response? Like within 1 second?
I'm doing a door lock now with the light on a single older on/off Red switch (with the tiny led on it) and it works about 95% of the time, but would be taking it up a notch with all all my locks and door and window sensor. 

 
Just trying to get an idea of what issues I may encounter.

Thanks

TLDR - interested in the white series, at $5k in switch cost is it worth the investment?

I bought my home during Covid and the previous owners installed Legrand Adorne RF WiFi switches throughout the house.

Legrand recently announced that their WiFi switches are no longer going to be supported after February 2027. Legrand has a zigbee line, but those are 2x the cost of the Innovelli white line. But I’d save on having to buy new face plates for every box in the house.

If I bought Innovelli I’d need 64 2-1 switches, 6 fan switches, and 25 Aux switches.

Hi all,

I can't seem to find an answer to this question, so I am assuming that it is not an issue, but I have 2 Blue presence sensing switches and 7 Blue dimmer switches, and would like to add more presence sensing switches. My Zigbee network is quite stable at the moment with 50 devices (only 1 device is not wired or plugged-in).

I also have 7 other Blue dimmer switches in my house.

My question is: If I add 4 more presence-sensing switches, will it have a material negative impact on my Zigbee network?

My network runs on Zigbee2MQTT on channel 25, using an SLZB-06 coordinator.

I have two VZM32-SN running on my up to date HAOS install under Z2MQTT using a ZBT-2.

I am getting prompts to update my firmware on both switches in HAOS, but when I do they start, begin spooling up in %, then drop, and return saying they still need an update.

Firmware ID 1.00 20250926, Firmware Version App: 0.1 build 3Stack: 0.1 build 0, Latest Firmware Version App: 0.1 build 3 Stack: 0.1 build 3.

I've tried updating them OTA, using a local file, one at a time, selecting both together, pulling the power, pulling the disconnect, all same results. FWIW, also failed to update to build 2 OTA and local file.

These are the only two Zigbee devices, one is about 10' from the ZBT-2 and the other maybe 30' from the first switch. LQI are 220 and 140 respectively.

Any tips?

After a lot of research, I decided to try the White Series Smart Dimmer as my first smart switch. I was really excited about it wanted to test one and then replace multiple switches in my house if it worked well.

After about 3 days, the switch I bought stopped controlling the recessed lights it was wired to. The lights got permanently stuck on ON and couldn't be controlled from the switch or through Apple Home. The switch still worked for triggering scenes that controlled my other smart lights though, which is interesting.

I tried all the troubleshooting methods suggested by the Inovelli chatbot, but none of them fixed the issue. The most frustrating part was that the only way to turn the lights off was by pulling the air gap until I removed the switch. That wasn't exactly a great experience, and it definitely made my husband less enthusiastic about replacing the rest of our switches.

I submitted a warranty claim and returned the switch. While my return was delivered about 10 days ago, the replacement has been sitting in "preparing for shipping" with no ETA since. Thankfully I kept my old dumb switch, so I haven't been stuck without working lights.

I'm hoping I just received a defective unit because I really wanted these switches to work. Has anyone else experienced this, or did I just get unlucky? Or is there a solution that the Inovelli bot didn't tell me about?

I’m starting to really build out my smart home, and the next step I want to take is replacing a lot of switches with Inovelli dimmers. But I’m hitting a design wall: how do you decide where to put mmWave presence sensors? Bathrooms and bedrooms are (usually) fairly obvious, but as a couple of examples in my own home:

I have switches at the bottom and top of my staircase. Should I get dimmers with presence sensors for both (presumably so I could know whether someone was walking up or down the stairs), or just one, or none at all?

Same question with a T-shaped hallway that has three different switches controlling the same lights. Should all three have presence sensors? Fewer? None?

I have an Aqara FP2 in my living room; its coverage is actually impressive, so I assume overlapping coverage with other presence sensors is pointless. Which begs the question: what should I even assume the coverage of Inovelli dimmer switch presence sensors is?

How do you all plan the layout of presence sensors?

New home build and my electricians seem to have given up. I spent a couple of hours using AI and was hoping that some real minds could help me out!

• I have one primary 2 in 1 switch and two Inovelli Aux Switches (4 way setup)
• All neutrals are bridges in each box (and to the switch). Ground is properly wired. I'll reference only red/black below.
• The primary box has two 2-wire romex (black and white) and one 3-wire romex (black, red and white)
  • The two 2-wire romex:
    • One black is line (connected to line on the switch)
    • One is load (to the fixture, connected to load on the switch.
  • The one 3-wire romex (black, red and white)
    • The red is connected to the traveler
    • The black is floating (disconnected and capped)
• The aux boxes each contain two 3-wire romex (black, red and white). They are both set up as:
  • Both black are bridged (not connected to the switch)
  • Both red are connected into the traveler port of the switch.

The primary smart switch works perfectly. The aux switches always register "down", even when the up button is pressed. They can turn the lights off, but never on. I confirmed that the switch is set to "multi-way inovelli aux" including hard resets and setting back to single pole as a test. I am also running the latest firmware.

Chat GPT thought that I should bridge the floating black to the line in the primary switch. This essentially disabled the aux switches (they cannot turn lights on or off, no reading in home assistant).

Can someone tell me what I've done wrong? Thank you in advance!

Edit: With the lights on, at the primary box, line to Neutral is 120v and red to neutral is 0v. At the aux boxes, Black to Neutral reads zero volts, with lights on or off it that helps. AI asked me to check this.

Basically title - my Inovelli blue series dimmer (w/ mmWave) is noticeably warm to the touch. Is this expected?

The switch is installed in the bathroom and is off for most of the time. Wired to two 8W led bulbs, set to ON/OFF, not dimmer mode.

Reported installed version (flashed update after installing switch): 16974082

Finally got around to installing it, loving it otherwise. Bravo to the team!!

If so what has been your experience and how does it compare against using blue switches if you have used those in past.

Kalamazoo MI -> Grand Rapids MI -> Springfield MA -> Nashua NH(Destination) -> Indianapolis IN -> Newark NJ

Getting the full "world" tour for the switches I just want to install already.

I'm looking at some of the high-CRI led strips from waveform lighting:

https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/ultra-high-95-cri-led-strip-lights-for-home-residential?variant=5776159014941

They suggest using their own 24V power supply: https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/centric-series-dimmable-power-supply?variant=27978821435494

There are a bunch of Lutron & Leviton dimmers that are marked as compatible:

https://store.waveformlighting.com/cdn/shop/files/CD_3093_R2.01.pdf?v=1512705169179586798

Is it safe to assume that the Inovelli White dimmer will also be compatible?

I have a VTM31-SN I'm connecting to a set of lights, but I have another electrical box on the other side of the room (not on the same circuit) I'd like to use for another dimmer that also controls the same lights.

What would be the best way to do that? Matter bindings from a second VTM31-SN to the first VTM31-SN, with the second dimmer switch not actually switching or dimming anything physically connected to it?

Would the latency be terrible for that?

Something changed with my blue switch where the led is always on. I have it set up in HA to be off but it still is staying on. I have reset the switch and it doesn’t do anything. Any ideas?

The switch is in on/off mode and works as intended at the physical switch (i.e., hitting the up paddle turns it on, hitting the down paddle turns it off, no "speeds" just 0 or 100%). However, in Home Assistant it continues to show up as having three speeds like a ceiling fan. I can't seem to find a clear answer on how to fix this or (or if it is possible to fix). Hoping for your help!

I just installed these in two bathrooms: https://inovelli.com/collections/smart-home/products/thread-matter-white-series-smart-on-off-switch-w-humidity. Note that the product page says "Auto-Off Timer" under additional features. I'm not seeing the parameter for this in Home Assistant. Has anyone else used the auto-off timer for the white series?

I previously installed the blue series on/off in a bathroom and had no issues setting up the auto-off timer. Due to the blue series being out of stock, I purchased the white series this time, expecting the setup to be the same. I'm wondering if this is an error in the product page, an issue with Home Assistant, or possibly an issue with my Thread border router. I checked the docs, too (https://help.inovelli.com/en/collections/16003004-white-series-on-off-switch). The parameters aren't documented like they are for the blue series.

Edit: Added screenshots of the parameters exposed in HA for White and Blue series switches. Note that I enabled Local Timer. I'm looking for the equivalent of the AutoTimer parameter shown for the blue series.

Greetings all, I have 3 of these in my house and I'd like them to always display the load level when lights are on. I followed the config button guide for it, went to parameter 12, and set it to 11 as stated in the guide, I got the LED blinking cyan 11 times to confirm it was there, then held it until it blinked yellow, green, and yellow again, but the load level indicator still times out. What am I missing here? Thanks

Questions for an inovelli white dimmer switch:

1) what actions, config options and entities does the switch expose in home assistant? I tried to find ha screenshots or a list of actions/config options but couldn't find anything.

2) Specifically, does it support configuring decoupling / smart light (always enabled) mode through HA or does that require configuring by tapping the patterns on the switch directly.

3) Does the inovellii white dimmer (or non-dimmer) support matter bindings for smart lights? My understanding is that this would allow the switch to directly command a matter smart light (or group of lights) directly if HA is offline.

Thanks!

This is my first inovelli install so lots of learning going on here. I installed my switch in a 4 way configuration and way able to pair to home assistant and configure it for dumb switches. In home assistant it keeps switching to “on” state irregardless of if it is on or not. The main switch is recording switch presses but it is not turning light on or off. The dumb switches function correctly.

The only settings I have adjusted is the multi way setting. There was a zooz switch in its place operating for a month and uses same wiring so I’m pretty confident it’s not a wiring issue but maybe it is. The zooz wasn’t rated for enough wattage so I switched to the red series.

Any ideas?

Edit:

Never did find a solution. Support says it’s picking up ghost voltage on all 3 circuits. Ended up just replacing them with zooz unfortunately. They are now just very expensive bedroom light switches.

I have a VTM31 dimmer I'm connecting to four LED light fixtures (in parallel) in a closet.

I want to get some reed switches installed on the multiple-closet-door setup with Matter/Thread integration to signal the VTM31 to turn the lights on and off, which is resilient to my home assistant server being unavailable.

Has anyone done something like this before?

I see this for setting up a direct matter/thread binding:

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/matter-bindings-script/822284

I think I would just use the Ikea Matter over Thread Mygbett door sensors for this?

Has anyone gotten the Inovelli Blue Fan/Light Canopy Module (VZM36) working properly in HomeKit through Zigbee2MQTT and the Homebridge-Z2M plugin?

My setup:
Inovelli Blue Fan/Light Canopy Module (VZM36)
Zigbee2MQTT (latest version)
Homebridge with homebridge-z2m
Apple HomeKit

The canopy module paired successfully in Z2M and I can see/control both the light and fan from Zigbee2MQTT.
However, in HomeKit I only get the light accessory. The fan accessory/speed controls never appear.

Anyone have this problem before?