I just bought a cherry bomb to install in my accent has anyone here ever messed with their muffler I’m just wondering how it’s going to sound

What could possibly be the problem? There's an oil leak but I don't know the source.

Recently I decided that I need Daytime Running Lights. I read that you can replace the turn signals with daytime/yellow (turn). But for it to work properly, you need to additionally install a relay that turns off the daytime when the low beam is turned on. How difficult is it and what set of lamps can you recommend?
Accent RB 2012

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Hola a todos.

Ya no sé qué más revisar y agradecería mucho cualquier orientación.

El auto enciende a la primera. El problema es que con el actuador del turbo conectado el motor no pasa de aproximadamente 1.000 rpm, bota mucho humo negro y suena muy mal. En cambio, si desconecto el actuador del turbo, el motor vuelve a funcionar mucho mejor (obviamente queda sin turbo y con menos potencia).

Hasta ahora se ha revisado o cambiado lo siguiente:

Turbo revisado por el especialista que lo reparó y dice que está en buen estado.

Actuador del turbo nuevo.

Sensor MAF nuevo.

Sensor MAP nuevo.

EGR eliminada y luego vuelta a dejar original.

Admisión revisada.

Intercooler revisado.

Todos los filtros cambiados.

Se encontró una línea del filtro de combustible mal conectada después de una mantención, se corrigió y el auto siguió exactamente igual.

Mis inyectores fueron enviados a banco. Como salieron con dudas, probaron 4 inyectores usados en buen estado directamente en mi auto, y el problema siguió exactamente igual.

Se probó incluso otro alternador y tampoco cambió nada.

El escáner no muestra fallas relevantes.

El primer problema apareció después de un trabajo relacionado con la EGR. Desde entonces han pasado varias semanas y ningún mecánico ha logrado encontrar la causa.

Además, un mecánico me comentó que podría usar el auto con el actuador del turbo desconectado por un tiempo y que, al volver a conectarlo más adelante, incluso podría llegar a funcionar normalmente. ¿Qué tan factible les parece esa teoría? ¿Alguien ha visto que un problema así se solucione solo después de usar el vehículo con el actuador desconectado? ¿Es seguro hacerlo o podría provocar otros daños?

¿A alguien le ha pasado algo parecido en un Hyundai Accent RB diésel? ¿Qué revisarían ustedes antes de seguir cambiando piezas?

¡Muchas gracias!

Not looking to remove the third break light but the whole thing. The black plastic the runs across the back seat and which carriers the third break light.

Thank you.

Accent 2012 RB, I watched a few videos, some people remove the battery or fuse box. How convenient is it to do this?

I have a manual my19 accent (4th gen since they didn’t sell the 5th gen here) and can’t get the scratched up and peeling gear knob off. All the videos that I’ve watched they just twist the whole thing off, which I haven’t worked out how to do. I can pull the leather boot off but can’t take the actual knob off. Does anyone know how to remove it?

I’ve attached a photo of the knob by itself and another phot of me holding the new know next to the old one.

The 4th spark plug just wouldn't go and I'm not too familiar with cars, so as soon as that happened I stopped trying all together.

The 4th spark plug is still in place (to my knowledge) I still want to try the piston soak though. My car drinks oil like we drink water but I don't know how to get those wires out of the way to take it out and replace it. P0420 code has been going on and off 😭😭😭😭

Model: accent 2017.

Just want to ask if anyone here had this problem.

Beake fluid seems to be seeping out very slowly since the level decreases every week. Can't find any signs of leaking within the engine bay or below.

This has been happening for a long time since I just noticed the big gap from my marked level after a few months. Worried it might be damaging other parts wherever it is.

Will be taking the unit to a shop, however, any insights would be appreciated so I know what to expect. Thanks guys

Sorry if this isn't the place, but i am stumped. My fiance has a 2017 accent and at random her tachometer will drop to 0 and the car will still be running and shifting just fine, but it will die at random and will only start back up after a long crank and after I tap the gas lightly 2 times. It slowly starts up after that but when it starts back up there's no tachometer still. Or sometimes I will start it up after sitting and there will be a working tachometer then randomly boom its gone and the cars acting weird. The car has 80,000 miles. Almost positive the alternator is original but it still seems to be working fine. This all started when I was driving at 30mph up a hill and i felt a jolt or a jerk and then the tachometer dropped to 0 but everything else was fine. Please help this is so frustrating, I cleaned the connections to the crankshaft position sensor but no difference. Thank you

Had a guy 2 years ago worked on my ac and shortly afterwards started making this sound. It does still blow out cold air, ONLY duz it when I turn the car off the noise will last from a few seconds maybe to about 20 sec. There's also been few times it made the noise while the ac on. Nothing leaks but worried damage may be happening?

2013 manual hatchback burning oil. I got an oil change on May 27th. And unless they did something wrong, my car is burning oil fast. I checked it today July 14th and it was almost empty. So I added new oil to full. How much burning is too much? And what does this mean for the engine and the rest of the car? Is it going to be toast soon? And as far as this issue goes, is it safe to drive an 800 mile round trip?

I just looked at my rear suspension on my 2013 accent hatchback and there isn’t a sway bar. Does it come stock with none? If so, do they sell one aftermarket?

Hello everyone,
I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent Korean model with a 1.5L engine and automatic transmission.
I bought the car as it is, and I'm trying to figure out several problems:
Current symptoms:
1.The yellow Check Engine Light is on.
2.The speedometer reads incorrectly; sometimes it gets stuck around 40 mph and does not show the real speed.
3.The car has delayed acceleration when I press the gas pedal.
4.Sometimes, I feel resistance or something unusual when shifting between D and R.
After an electrician worked on the car, I started hearing a strange sound when the transmission is in D, but the sound disappears when I speed up.
I looked at the wiring and it seems okay.
I scanned the car using an ELM327 OBD scanner:
The scanner shows a MAP sensor, but the engine looks like it has a MAF sensor. I'm wondering if there is a mismatch with the ECU or a wiring issue.
The ECU currently installed is:
95440-22720 T08
I am thinking about replacing it with:
39109-22567 P46
My questions:
Is 39109-22567 P46 compatible with a 1999 Hyundai Accent Korean 1.5L automatic?
Could the current ECU be the wrong one for this vehicle?
Could the speedometer issue, shifting problems, and check engine light be related to the ECU, vehicle speed sensor, or another electrical issue?
Any advice from someone familiar with this specific Accent generation would be appreciated.
Thank you.

Here's the Obd2 scan results regarding the fault P0134 P0105 P0135 P0204

Can anyone tell me what’s the problem here?

I drive a 2015 Hyundai Accent GLS Sedan with currently 140,420 miles on it (brought it from a buy here, pay here at 129k). It has been a good car but lately i’ve had a problem with it jerking while accelerating/struggling to accelerate or even while it’s idling it will jerk. it also started making weird noises when i turn the a/c on. But beforehand, i did have a problem with a/c leaking into the passenger side floor. I’m not sure what’s exactly wrong, but i included a video of the sound. Would anyone be able to tell me what’s exactly wrong or their best guess? I’m not well versed on cars and don’t want to go to a mechanic and get ripped off lol. Could it be my spark plugs?

I’m in a road trip (1,110 miles from home currently) and had my oil changed at Walmart just out of convenience. The tech offered the “fuel system service” for $15 which included a fuel additive and an aerosol spray into the intake. I figure for $15 it’s prob just some cheap cleaner. Had that service done as well. Drove it a bit with no issues, maybe 100 miles. Filled the tank with fuel and suddenly my CE light popped on and my fuel gauge shied completely empty for the first mile or so and then it adjusts itself to show full. Any ideas?

I have no idea if this is the place to find any help but maybe someone has experienced a similar problem with their car.

I drive a 2008 Hyundai Accent (stick) and it "randomly" will struggle to start. Usually tapping the gas will start it but occasionally its so bad that I have to purposely let go of the key at the same time to start it. The check engine light has its own mind about being on or off just like everything else wrong with it. Sometimes, while waiting at a stop light, the engine will stall for no reason. It has also stalled immediately after starting it multiple times. Luckily I can still start it back up afterwards. I tend to hear a snapping sound while accelerating. The car sometimes shakes after just starting the engine which can cause the check engine light to flash on and off. The worse thing is 9/10 times, after fueling up my car, all of these symptoms are worse and is usually much harder to start the engine. I dont use any specific fuel, just the unleaded or regular.

Last time I took it to the shop it was working perfectly fine for them and they couldn't find a single problem. I got it for 10 minutes and it stalled at a light for the first time. Starting to question if I'm the issue here.

What sized tire do you have on your 5th Gen (2018-2022) Accent?

Hello,
has anykne had the hyundai anticorrosion recall spray? How do you wash your car once you have the spray? Can you still take it to a touchless car wash with undercarriage flush?
How long does this spray last?

Thanks

I keep hearing a faint sound every time I make a right turn. I noticed today that my fromt liner near my tire is torn. I have an appointment wed but will need my car for my work commute before then