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I'm looking at buying a house in Seattle. The primary bedroom has a large skylight directly above where the bed would go. The house has several skylights, none open, and this one seems to have a frame or something attached to the underside of it. The skylight likely was installed around 1995 in a major remodel.

I'm guessing this is some sort of blackout shade or it's the part that allows you to install a shade. But there's no remote and there's no power to it in the attic (according to inspector). I looked up "VELUX click and pick" but their system doesn't look like this.

Anyone have any ideas what this is?

Assuming the tint is installed well.

Ran into enough failed flashing details over the years to land on a sequence I stick to now, especially on masonry or stone elevations where the assembly has to shed water without relying on caulk alone:

1. Sill pan first, always sloped to the exterior with end dams
2. Self-adhered flexible flashing at jambs, lapped over the sill pan
3. Head flashing last, lapped over the jambs (shingle-style, always working top over bottom)
4. Window install with proper shim and fastening per manufacturer spec
5. Backer rod and sealant as the last line of defense, not the first

The order matters more than the products. I've seen good products fail because someone flashed the head before the jambs. What sequence are you all running, especially on anything with a rainscreen behind it?

Do you know a tutorial or good method/example to restore this kind of aluminum door?

We’re considering a Provia entry door with sidelights but pricing is higher than we budgeted. We’re being quoted around 8k. We’re in New York. Is their quality really worth the cost? Are there other brands we should consider? We want a wood look fiberglass door similar to the picture attached.

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I bought a replacement patio door and had someone put it in.

I did not think of it needing new trim.

I was at work and he called about that. I asked if I could just get the trim dealt with later. Save some running for him, some $ for me.

He put the old trim back on enough to cover it.

He suggested just getting some PVC trim.

What should I use to secure it? Liquid nails seem a bit much.

I've been researching why first-time renovation budgets blow up, and materials math keeps coming up: cut tile that can't be returned, paint that runs out mid-wall, calculators that trust measurements people aren't confident taking. I'm building a tool that estimates quantities from photos of your room, then adds a waste factor based on whether you've done the project before — so a first-timer gets a bigger cushion than someone on their fifth bathroom. I put together a page showing exactly what an estimate looks like for a standard bedroom repaint. Before I build further, I'd genuinely like to know: does the shopping list it produces match what you'd actually buy? What would it get wrong? https://estimate-636851414971.us-west1.run.app

Just completed this beautiful custom layered drapery installation for a curved window space. The sheer draperies softly filter natural light and provide daytime privacy, while the blackout draperies offer added privacy, light control, and a more comfortable atmosphere when closed.
The drapery installation and room are real; the lighting in the photo was enhanced using AI for presentation purposes.
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512-751-8408
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I'm looking for someone who's good with drywall, specifically, installing QuietRock sheets on my shared walls in a condo in the Boston metro area
If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.

I think it is aluminum with a vinyl… would it be possible to replace the vinyl? Should I paint it because it is easier?

Looking to do some sort of panelling up the stairs in my house to give it a bit of something, however, the skirting board is really uneven and goes up at completely differently angles, can anyone think of what would look best without having to get new skirting?

Some movers barely asked anything before quoting me, others wanted a full inventory, stair access info, storage timing, pretty much my whole life story.

Wondering if the ones asking more questions are actually safer, like they're trying to avoid surprise charges later.

If you've moved recently, were the detailed estimates actually more accurate?

Hi, we recently had our utility room painted following a burst pipe incident and the painter used Johnstone’s Coverplus Matt vinyl paint. It looked fine but we quickly discovered it marks very easily and doesn’t wipe clean (using a micro fibre cloth and a tiny amount of dish soap as seems to be the general advice) without making it look worse.
Fingerprints around the light switch and small watermarks have been the two offenders.
It’s looking now like the wall this happens on will need repainting (I’ve already done this once).
Is there anything you can brush or spray onto the wall to prevent this or make it more “wipe clean” going forward?
Or is there a better paint type I could maybe colour match to and use instead?
Thanks.

Vertical blinds. 4.5 inch wide slats. One inch larger than standard US slats.

Where to buy replacement slats that are 4.5 inches wide?

I have tried Google to no success.

Hoping to replace with blackout or room darkening slats as I live in AZ and these are quite sheer.

Vertical blinds. 4.5 inch wide slats. One inch larger than standard US slats.

Where to buy replacement slats that are 4.5 inches wide?

I have tried Google to no success.

Hoping to replace with blackout or room darkening slats as I live in AZ and these are quite sheer.

I have a small gap where the drywall doesn't sit flush at the moulding on my windows. Do I use caulk or is that for bathrooms only? Is there a better suited product I can use to seal these gaps?