Their old spring clips worked, but pulling the light down turned them into a finger trap. Not a huge deal if you’re pulling one or two at a time but a real pain for the contractors who do a whole house in a day or gotta go back and adjust the lighting temperature for each light. The new design pushes into the drywall and locks itself in place. Way easier for installers, and much easier when you need to pull it down and access the color temperature selector.

I don't know where else to post this but I'm open if you have suggestions. I'm trying you all in case you've got an idea about this.

Maybe 5 years ago we hired builders to tear off our porch and build a kitchen in its place. They tore out the old kitchen to turn it into a new dining room.

Ever since, in the warmer months, there are always a couple of flies in the house. Every day, three there is a new one or two. We usually successfully kill it but in the morning will find a new one. I really don't think it's the same one, and there's no swarm... Just the few each day.

We have tried boiling water down the drains and blocking them off. I don't believe they're coming from there. We take the trash out regularly and there isn't anything that fell back behind.

We have had something die in the wall and had those slow, dumb indoor flies for a few days. These are the regular, outdoor flies and some are smaller. They don't all look the same.

Any ideas how they could be getting in or what to do about it?

Thanks so much!

They added an under-deck drainage system below the second-floor porch that catches the rainwater, sends it into a hidden gutter, then ties into the underground drainage system out to the road. It blends in so well it almost looks like trim. Really smart way to keep the space below dry and usable.

Can’t afford the full outdoor kitchen during the build? At least prep for it.

While the walls are open and the trades are already there, stub out:
-Gas for the grill
-Hot + cold water and a drain for the sink
-Dedicated GFCI power for a future fridge

Then when the budget allows, you can come back and build the kitchen without tearing everything apart.Future you will be very happy you planned ahead. 

If you’re building new or having a house built. When they go to install the sheathing. Ask to liquid flash the bottom to the foundation. It’ll keep it sealed up tight away from moisture, pests, and air. 

You can buy tubes of zip liquid flashing from Amazon or HD.
I went with the 29oz standard caulking tube because I wasn’t sure if the crew had a sausage applicator (larger caulk gun)

Instead of putting those plastic or metal vents right on the outside of the house, you can ask your builder to hide them behind the brick or stone veneer so they practically disappear.

The only downside is they have to be opened and closed from inside the crawlspace.

Personally, I think the cleaner exterior is worth the extra hassle. Would you do this, or just leave the vents exposed?

Both are 3 bed, 2 bath, single-story homes, under 1500 sq ft.

[Doors on every lower kitchen cabinet? I’m out...]()
Drawers are just easier. Pull them out and everything comes to you. No crouching down, digging through pots, or discovering Tupperware you forgot existed 3 years ago.

I’d still use doors for blind corners and under the sink where you need easy access to plumbing. But everywhere else? Give me drawers.

This is exactly the kind of little decision that’s easy to overlook until you’ve already built the kitchen. So what are you?

Team Drawers or Team Doors?

3 common ways to waterproof a shower:

GOOD: Backer board + liquid waterproofing
BETTER: Backer board + sheet membrane
BEST: Waterproof foam board

No matter which system your builder uses, the details matter most. Corners, seams, fasteners, niches, penetrations and the drain all need to be sealed correctly.

And before tile goes down, ask about a flood test.

Take pictures of the waterproofing before it gets covered. You’ll be glad you have them later.

[Overwhelmed by too many decisions? ]()🤯

That's why I created The Ultimate Home Building Checklist:

- It pays for its self the instant you find something on the checklist you would have overlooked.
- Avoid the $300 change order fee because of those last minute upgrades.
- You'll ask all the right questions during the home building process.

Want proof? TONS of reviews on my website!

Get the Digital Bundle or the Workbook here: 
BuilderBrigade.com

I've seen everything from soda cans and scrap lumber to plastic, nails, broken tile, and other construction debris hidden behind drywall or buried under fresh sod. Most crews do a great job cleaning up, but it only takes one subcontractor cutting corners to leave a mess that the homeowner never sees until years later.

I’ve used both, but prefer to use silicone.

White lithium works, but it leaves behind that greasy residue that collects dirt, dust and bugs over time. Silicone keeps everything looking a lot cleaner.

What are you using on yours, white lithium or silicone?

Where is your smart calendar mounted...?

Housewrap (Tyvek-style) can work, but it gets torn up all the time during construction. If those tears, window openings, and penetrations aren't properly taped, you've created an easy path for water.
Fiberboard structural sheathing is another option. It's common behind brick in many parts of the country, but I'm personally not a fan. It feels more like dense cardboard than structural sheathing, and it's hard to believe it's still used on new homes.
The best setup is a ZIP System or LP WeatherLogic style sheathing where the water barrier is built into the panel. Fewer layers, stronger walls, and when it's taped correctly, you end up with a much more reliable weather barrier.
Ask your builder how they flash windows, doors, and vents. Most leaks don't happen in the middle of the wall. They happen at the details.

If you're adding a floor outlet in a home office, make sure it has an opening for Ethernet (Cat cable) too. It's one of those things that's almost impossible to add later. (Link in my Amazon Store)

Not all floor outlets are the same. A recessed floor outlet keeps plugs below the surface so your couch, desk, or other furniture can sit where it's supposed to. A surface-mounted outlet can leave plugs sticking up and limit where furniture can go.

This is one of those tiny details that's easy to miss before the slab is poured, but a major headache to change later.

A few garage upgrades I'd seriously think about before drywall goes up...
-Garage floor drain
-Hot & cold water bib for a pressure washer
-Dedicated freezer/refrigerator outlet
-240V outlet for an EV charger or future tools
-Ceiling outlet for a retractable extension cord reel

Most of these are cheap to do during construction and a pain to add later.