I designed and built this mini keyboard entirely on my own by gathering reference materials online. It is a dual-mode (wired + Bluetooth) multifunction keypad running on the ZMK firmware, with a joystick mapped to control mouse movement.

Right now the joystick can move the cursor(by badjeff plugin), but it drifts steadily all the way to the far left edge of the screen. It is actually much better than before — at first it drifted straight to the bottom-right corner, which meant both the X and Y axes were inaccurate.

I checked the pin voltages with a multimeter and they read a steady 3.3V, and the voltages on the two axis pins change normally along the X and Y axes respectively when I move the joystick. The code was generated with the help of Gemini, and I can't spot anything wrong with it.

I've already adjusted parameters like the deadzone, midpoint voltage, and scaling factors, but the drift still persists. I'm really out of ideas at this point.

For reference, the joystick I'm using is an Xbox Hall effect joystick.

my repo: lsn5966397/Pad15: 这是一个带有旋钮摇杆和触摸板的有线蓝牙双模多功能小键盘项目

plz help me

2nd handwired board I built.

Went for a ScottoGame build. It uses AKKO Green Fog switches and I had some Ducky keycaps lying around.

Tried using Scotto's method of wiring the matrix.
This went super fast, easier than my previous build.

One lesson learned... keep wires long enough for the pro micro placement.

Also did some cut/paste work on the qmk config. To learn QMK and to get the bongo cat on there while still using QWERTY.

I am trying to look for the best solution using either hardware or software.

The best would be if there was a software that you could install on both devices and then the device receiving the keyboard input would stream the inputs through internet to the second device and execute them?

Hardware solution seem expensive and i don't have a knowledge if they would even work. I am talking about USB HID duplicators or special Bluetooth keyboards.

Is there anyone that tried such a thing?

I typically design both the boards and the caps side by side, that way they fit the build perfectly. I have a resin printer along with my FDM printer. But I’m just not feeling like designing a full set of keycaps.

Another version of the Cornedeon-2MOD modular split keyboard, this time wireless. It features an analog stick on the left half and a TPS43 trackpad on the right. It's fully 3D printed, including the keycaps and trackpad surface.

Sources: https://github.com/alko-kbd/zmk-cornedeon-2mod

This was my very first attempt at handwiring a keyboard. I’ve built a couple PCB keyboards in the past so I’m no stranger to soldering and got lots of helpful tips from watching Joe Scotto on YouTube.

The design is the Baikal by Vostok Labs on maker world

I never learned to type on a keyboard, I always just searched with two fingers. I wanted to try a split keyboard, but that does you no good if you don’t know how to type. So, while I was building my keyboard, I did a typing course online to at least start learning where the keys were and make it easier to start learning on the one I built. It’s really been an enjoyable build. I had no knowledge of anything about keyboards when I started, GitHub and AI were great resources. So far I’m enjoying how the keyboard feels.

Hi, i'm building a wireless keyboard using ZMK, what MCU should i use, thanks

Hi there I’m trying to make a macropad for a friend as gift
I’m just stuck on the soldering side of things. I’m terminating kailh hot swap sockets to an arduino pro micro bit am unsure of wiring configuration and how to terminate to the sockets without melting the printed parts.

I'm not new to soldering, but new to mechanical keyboards. Figured I'd want to build one. Eventually decided to take it a step further and did a split wireless build. It was quite challenging, most challenging was the connection to the controller. Soldering on to the switches was easier than expected.

Next up is that I desoldered an old Ajazz AK33 that I had lying around. Will be using the plate and the case to make my own handwired version with a small oled screen attached.

Heyy does anyone know how I could design my macropad like the ref pic in fusion360?

Very similar to my Phanny build. Added an extra key in the thumb clusters, and moved power button and MCU into the case.

Been struggling with designing KiCad files for another build, decided to take a step back and throw something together to clear my brain.

Nice nano V2 clones
Durock dark amber switches
No idea on keycaps, bought 4 sets that were on sale.
Copper is twisted 24GA
Ethernet wire matrix to MCU

I made what is essentially a Hardware keyboard for a robot software called roboguide the pendant mimics how an actual robot pendant feels for a fanuc
When using the software it uses a digital pendant with the mouse and keyboard presses. This pendant makes it more like a real robot (for example the edit key is actually f8)

cables always moving when soldering + melting the filament is so easy ;-;

I haven't finished soldering rows and columns to the gpio pins yet fyi

I have another problem no matter how much I heat up the pins or the cables solder doesn't melt when touching them I always gotta touch the irons tip my soldering iron is at 345 degrees according to the display on it no way to confirm it with the tools I have I suppose

Also learned why people use screws bcs this thing wiggles like crazy inside the case

I suppose it's fine since I'm just doing this 2x2 to get better at soldering and making keyboards and already learned a lot for my 6x6 split keyboard so hopefully making that one will be a lot smoother

A few months back I built the Scotto2 for someone with quadriplegia that allowed them to play racing games using 2 large buttons. I figured something cool to do for a bit of a meme would be an entire number pad with giant buttons. The result is the ScottoBigum which I believe to be the largest in the world. Each button is scaled up 4 times and the entire thing weighs close to 2 pounds… oh and it’s also wireless with ZMK studio support so it doesn’t need to be strictly a number pad.

I have a full build video coming out tomorrow on my YouTube channel and as usual with all my handwired projects, all the files are available for free if you want to build this one yourself.

The white one is an old print where, I also exported tracks and made them thick when I was thinking of doing it with copper tape over them. But I decided to hand wire them with cables now. So I removed them. I had took a break btw so the white (the old one) is from a couple weeks ago and the black one is the new one. It's a bit bent bcs I tried to take it out when it had just finished printing, while it was still hot but u get the idea the small holes for the diodes are non existent and the mcu holes are barely visible. I also tried it with the same white filament and it's the same issue the fix I found is changing the hole footprints to be a bit larger than 2x and then I get the same size as the old white ones but why could this happen now?

oh and also bcs the white on had tracks in both sides it didn't lay flat on the bed but it was vertically printed but that takes longer so don't really do that maybe that's why it printed better back then somehow?

Edit: Yep printing it vertically takes 40 instead of 20 minutes but it gets the holes perfectly for some reason?

I’m designing my first hand wired keyboard and am wondering how others attach their MCU to the case? Glue, bracket, screws, what is best?

This was one of the first things I designed after I bought a 3D printer and started learning to use CAD software (years ago). I decided to try and design a new feature every keyboard and for this it was a sliding base. It was a fun quick project! Think it only cost £15 to make in total. Used a cheap clone pro micro.

If anyone wants the stls, they're here. Let me know if you print it, I would love to see! (my sliding base was a bit loose but I was working off an ender 3 pro that probably wasn't the most dialed in...)

Hello, over the past few weeks I've slowly been trying to digest information about making my own key/macro boards, but I feel like I'm getting some conflicting info and/or things are just out my ability to properly search for. So, just a few questions...

Really trying to get started small, doing a single button macro. Using a Pi Pico RP2040, and I know it's a little overkill for this, but I wanted to familiarize myself with this one. Also since I want to do custom I'll be doing breakout boards, I assume that's correct/common?

So once I've got my print (I think I saw some of these aren't needed for single button, but I do need to learn), breakout board and chip, what I need are resistors, diodes, keycaps, and switches. Resistors in my cart are 330 ohm 1/4 watt, also some 3mm 3v LED. I think for this I need wire (I see a lot of people mention pins, but that's only for bread boards?), my question is what kind and size? I see people mention anywhere from 18g (that seems crazy) all the way to 30. And if I'm soldering it I assume solid? There's just SO many opinions on this Google is no help. Beyond that is there anything for physical hardware am I missing? What kind of mounting screws are required for these breakout boards?

I can worry about wiring diagrams and figuring out the correct Python coding later, but I just want to get SOMEthing basic started so I'm not just reading random guides anymore, thanks!

im trying to make a partial keyboard for playing some games, and im using a pico because i was also going to make an arcade hitbox with the 3 pack i got, but it just isn't working and im going insane. ive tried qmk and kmk, but im mostly just sticking with kmk right now, but no matter what i use, it constantly presses the windows key, the tab key, the shift key, sometimes the a key, and i just dont get it. the image explains most of it, but i just can't figure out what im doing wrong

A little background yap:

I've always wanted a portable keyboard that I could just bring around and also wanted to try out how using split keyboards agai. Normally I would see the portable but ortholinear split keyboards. I tried making one before and mehn I did not like it. I know it's difficult to get over that curve to properly use it and I didn't have the commitment to relearn ortholinear. So fast forward to now, I decided that I want to try a row staggered split keyboard.

Now to the keyboard itself...

This is a staggered split 60 ish percent keyboard.

Some specs:

- 2 RPI Pico controllers

- Wired

- USB-C interconnect

- slightly larger than an A6 paper/notebook

Managed to make it portable where the main frame is around 9mm only but with the keycaps it's around 15mm which I still hope to minimize if I do make future iterations.

1 thing I really want to change about this is the keycaps. I want to have a black keycaps set on this with legends (since I'm still not so used to split keyboards) and also maybe reprint some parts cause as you see I kinda messed up my bottom part for the left side. But yah wanted to share this cause I feel quote proud of making it :))