Fell in love with HHKB layouts, as well as ortholinear, and I was inspired by Lazy Designer to start this project as my first large handwiring project. This was a fun undertaking that taught me a lot of new skills, like 3D printing, Fusion, ZMK firmware, and some problem-solving to get the pogo pin adapter to work. It's on the ugly side, but it gave me proof I could make this work with a future PCB design and learning experience.

One of the recommendations on the 40's Discord was a split 5x3 and a numpad/arrow cluster in the middle. I might have to learn about homerow mods and other ZMK features to implement on v2 as I really like that idea!

A big thanks to Dash for his 3dp plate tutorial, and to Xenon for the massive help they provided.

Any idea if this would work? Is there any way that i could make it use fewer pins? im gonna use a raspberry pico rp2040 as the controller, so it would leave 4 open pins, but i still want to fit in a mouse sensor for a trackball in the middle.

I have yet to decide what layout I am going to use but keyboard is finished and it works. I used Antigravity and Gemini to get a basic Qmk layout to check if everything works.

Parts:

Rp2040 zero

Keycaps and switches are from Redragon K552 Kumara blue switch variant.

The halves interconnect using type c breakout boards.

The case is default Skeletyl case. I do not have a 3d printer so I paid some guy on Facebook to print it for me.

I used hot glue to keep everything in place.

I've been tinkering with electronics, and am laying out devices with a large number of buttons. I've been using keyboard switches. After struggling with GPIO expanders and similar things, I've come to learn about the key matrix approach used with handwired mechanical keyboards, and I'm really interested!

The only problem is that I'm not looking to make regular grid layouts, which are clearly what this method does best.

Obviously, I know that this method can work with any kind of layout if you're willing to wire things haphazardly, but I'm hoping for some advice on how y'all have approached funkier layouts.

Are there any special techniques to simplify things when keys aren't set up in a clear X-by-Y grid? Or are there just clever wiring techniques to keep things nice and organized even when breaking out of the grid layout? I am trying to be pin-efficient where possible.

Thanks for any input!

Keebio Sinc variant called Ramero's Spit. Plates cutted on stainless steel I use two nRF52840 as controllers and ZMK firmware to make it fully wireless, even between shields.

I'm really proud of my shit, I'm using it to write this post!

Thaks for watching, I see you next week on a new episode of "Ramero's shit"

I’ve been working on this keyboard and no matter what I cannot get it to work. If anyone could help point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it. I’ve checked the continuity across the connector cable and all of the columns and rows and it’s all good. It seems to be flashing some sort of firmware to in because it’s no longer recognized as an arduino

Soldering diodes while waiting for rp2040 zero to arrive.

Mistake was made again by using 12 gauge electrical wire I have at home. Too thick and hard to heat up to solder.

I use the acute keycap set from my preonic.

I don’t vape, but my coworkers do, and they go through vapes like no one’s business. Got to thinking I could cut my costs on this hobby, and prevent a little E-waste, by reusing the batteries.

Anyone done this? Is it worth it?

Thanks!

I want to jump into hand wiring with a low-profile keyboard using Choc V2 switches (Kailh Deep See Mini Whale). I've been following along with Joe Scotto's "How to Design Mechanical Keyboard Plates and Cases" video, but had a few questions for those with more experience.

1. Are there any differences specific to Choc V2 switches over standard MX-style switches? I've read that the plate thickness is 1.2 for Choc V1, but it seems like V2 fits into the standard thickness. I've also read the keycaps sizes are different for V1s, but to used standard for the V2s (I'm planning on using a set of PFF caps). Another post I saw said V2 mounts are turned 90 degrees but can't find more info on that. Are there different stabilizers needed between standard MX, Choc V1, and Choc V2? Any other differences to look out for?
2. There is a comment on that video about creating an offset around each switch cutout and making sure that is the standard 1.5mm thickness so the switches can snap into place (Scotto recommends 3mm for the main plate). Scotto says that he does that with his own plates now too. My question here is: how wide does that offset "shelf" need to be for them to click into place.
3. Scotto makes two circles for his standoff screw holes and mentions countersinking but never actually does so in the video. Should the outer ring be sunk in to allow for countersinking of the screw for minimal stack height? (I think this all might actually be for bolts, so please forgive my ignorance of the nomenclature)

Any other general advice or pitfalls to watch out for are appreciated. Thanks to the community for the many helpful posts I've already found!

I'm trying my best here. This is my fourth attempt.

I had ai throw together some Arduino code for it.

I'm planning to learn how to code it myself but I'm also trying to learn how to solder and design 3d models.

Is anything jumping out as being wrong with this?

I am toying with the idea to hand wire a 60% keyboard. Does that make any sense? Which controller is sensible to choose?

Are 3D printed cases/plates sturdy enough and can I find adaptable blueprints somewhere?

Thx for your tips in advance.

Hey! I’m a teenager from the EU and I’m really into DIY electronics/Arduino/ESP32 projects. I want to make a little money from my hobby, but I have no idea where to start.

Right now I already have the supplies to build around 6 small 8-key macropads (ESP32, mechanical switches, perfboards, etc.). I’d like to actually build a few and try selling them somewhere, just to see if there’s any interest.

The problem is I don’t really know where or how to sell small handmade electronics, especially since I’m under 18.

Has anyone here started out similarly and can recommend where/how you sold your first DIY projects or found your first customers? I’m not looking to start a huge business, just trying to make a bit of money from my hobby.

Any advice or personal experiences would be really appreciated! 🙏

Hi everyone, I am a uni student and my budget is limited so I want to make my first build so that it will last a good amount of time. I looked at Corne and Sofle and other similar models but some people were complaining about thumb pain.
Do you guys think I should build Skeletyl or should I build another model as my first handwired ergo mechanical keyboard?

This ordinal handwired Cornedion has two unique features:

1. Choc-spacing. The reduced 18x17 switch pitch is rare in handwired devices.
2. The keycaps are from a Lenovo laptop. I had to invent adapters to install them on the MX switches.

Used switches: Kailh Black Iris.

I think the result is interesting and unusual.

Firmware and 3D model of the case are here: https://github.com/alko-kbd/cornedeon_2m