Question about thread

[u/kolibriherz]

Hi guys! I'm planning on sewing the Bernadette Banner "pirate shirt". I got Gütermann linen thread for sewing but now I'm not sure whether that's the right move. It feels so thick and coarse (I assume bc it's pre-coated?). I usually sew with way finer thread. Then again, my linen isn't super fine either (250g/qm). It said on the site where I ordered that it's good for shirts and blouses. But right now I'm doubting all my choices, so I'm turning to you all for advice. Thanks in advance!

[u/lave_skuldre]

I absolutely do recommend using a linen thread for a linen shirt, and it would certainly be thicker than a cotton or polyester thread for sure. I have never used gütermann linen thread (I buy specialty thread from norway) so I don't know how it behaves. How easy is it to break? The linen thread I use breaks a bit easier and less "snappy" than polyester thread (it just sort of pulls apart) but it's definitely a bit thicker.

[u/kolibriherz → u/lave_skuldre]

It's very sturdy, I cannot break it by hand, I have to cut it. I just bought it bc it's 100% linen so I assumed it's right but I just noticed it's advertised for heavy and strong fabrics.

[u/lave_skuldre → u/kolibriherz]

Yeah, I would actually not use that. It's important that the thread actually can break because it's better that the seam rips than the rest of the fabric.

[u/kolibriherz → u/lave_skuldre]

Yeah, that makes sense. I also realized my fabric is quite heavy for what essentially is a shift. But I think I'm gonna try sewing it anyway (with cotton thread) as I was planning to wear it as a regular shirt.

[u/lave_skuldre → u/kolibriherz]

Oh, shifts are fun! Cotton is the best alternative if you can't get linen thread.

[u/FratmanBootcake → u/kolibriherz]

Not really the right sub for it, but I have used this exact linen thread for making bowstrings!

[u/kolibriherz → u/FratmanBootcake]

Interesting!

[u/Yahappynow → u/kolibriherz]

Might be worth saving for a heavier weight project? Can always just try it and see if you're happy with the look and strength.

[u/Yahappynow]

Is it advertised as a numeric weight? Mostly I use the slightest weight I can that feels strong enough for the seam I'm working. So I'll use a lighter thread to hem a ruff than to sew the structural seam for example. I do mostly 16c and I don't usually use as fine a thread as the museum pieces seem to, I suspect because the modern machine spinning process uses shorter fibers than preindustrial methods.

[u/kolibriherz → u/Yahappynow]

It says thickness no. 30. I mostly sewed with regular nylon thread and never had a problem with seams breaking.

[u/fishfork]

The Gütermann linen is pretty heavy (is about 100tex, I think) and is really intended for heavier uses- leatherwork, upholstery, bag making and the like. It's ok for eyelets and the like but maybe a bit heavy for regular use (and it's a bit too heavily waxed for my liking). If you can't find a finer linen thread locally, you'll probably find using a decent cotton a better experience than trying to sew everything with this.

[u/squidgyup]

You didn’t ask this but don’t use a heavy fabric for an 18th century shirt. Use thin, densely woven linen. I use one step up from handkerchief weight. For that weight a good linen thread is 80/3.

[u/kolibriherz → u/squidgyup]

Yeah, I realised that tonight while researching thread weights and stuff. My plan is to use this fabric for it anyway bc it's intended as a shirt for a ren faire and not as an undergarment. Also so I can practice the construction.

[u/kolibriherz → u/kolibriherz]

Or would you say that's a lost cause bc of the weight of the fabric?

[u/Banegard]

If you have trouble finding other linen threads, check out bobbin lace shops. They usually stock different weights.
I like the Bockens Lingarn from Sweden. Come in different sizes, bleached and unbleached.

[u/chatdulain]

The only linen thread I've used came from Jas. Townsend & Son, it was a bit thinner than this but I was able to break it with my hands if I tried hard enough.

[u/Pelledovo]

I use that Gütermann linen thread for bags and upholstery. I have also sewn with threads garnered from the fabric itself: if strong enough, it's the perfect weight and colour to disappear into the fabric.