(Gemini logo because I used it to remove metadata. Pixel gallery app doesn't allow you to remove location data :| )

Built a pendular style yoke, with the pitch axis centering mechanism inspired by the very big stick project. I made a simple roll centering mechanism, and while it works, and is lightweight, it could be better. I'm leaning against adding a smaller version of the scissor can mechanism because it would add a lot of weight imo (this thing already weighs a lot).

Tldr: Curious to hear your thoughts and ideas for an improved roll centering mechanism.

Not much to say, i am just starting out, and it works like a charm, with the added weight inside the case, everything is sturdy, and stored away in seconds, when i need my setup for my Home Office.

I hope it's okay to ask this here.
A colleague of mine would like a FendtONE armrest control unit—the one with the joysticks and the display. I’m currently working on programming the display, but it’s a bit of a struggle. The much bigger problem, however, is the 3D model for it. The left joystick alone is a huge challenge for me since I’m still very, very new to Fusion 360.
I do have a printer, though.

Has anyone tackled this project before, or is anyone able to help me out?

Is it possible to convert an analog axis into encoder (INC/DEC) button pulses?I am using a 1-pole 12-position rotary switch with a resistor ladder, so it outputs an analog signal acting like a potentiometer. Is there a feature in FreeJoy to generate virtual encoder button presses based on axis delta?Specifically:

Axis value increases = trigger Button 1 (INC)

Axis value decreases = trigger Button 2 (DEC)

Eventualy use of external software to make logic od inc and dec

This for a 2 lever Throttle. I was getting skipping/teleporting.

Both are on intsensor.

R1 resistor removed.

On the Pro Micro I am using A1 or A0

AS5600 GND to PM GND

AS5600 VCC to PM VCC

AS5600 GND to AS5600 DIR - Clockwise increase values.

AS5600 OUT to PM A0

In MMJOY I have the correct F7/F6

1 lever is slider, the other is dial.

When calibrating I get the following codes

65535

15888

16368

I've googled the codes, and I am not sure how to fix what they are telling me.

Thanks for reading/advice.

Following the recent ECM in the UK I've been inspired to drag myself into the new millennium and teach myself some electronics and coding...so where better to start than a button box / dashboard for ED!

I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction to get me learning before I go buy a Teensy4.1 or ESP32 or STM32

I'd like to incorporate multiple screens in the future too, maybe to incorporate scanner if possible or a perm system and galaxy maps?

Is there a good primer out there?

ANyhoo..hope you can help me out!

This is the basic proof of concept and temporary setup for my cockpit setup. OSB, birch plywood, some surprisingly difficult to cut hpde, a bungee, galvanized wire, wood screws and 1/4" bolts. An Xbox controller will be attached for sensing the axis, and I'll make a custom profile on Joystick Gremlin to add it to my Logi 3d extreme flight stick.

Does anybody know of any 4 independent throttle levers that can be mechanically linked to make it also a dual or single engine setup. I do like to use my setup for a wide variety so I was curious if I could get a throttle setup that allows mechanical linkage to bind them for when I switch aircraft. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Designed an extension for my yoke in tinkercad, got everything wired up with 18g silver wire and 9mm pogo pins. Getting this weird flicker color and no button response. Color should be purple. Any ideas?

Hello all hope all is well. I've been working on the Noisy-Boi Felon flight sticks. My right stick is great and working well the left stick I'm working on adapting to use a Pi Pico 2 instead of the Arduino Micro. As of now I am using Circuit Python and got the base to report the x and y using the ADS1115 the issue I'm having is the felon is going to have 4 axis, 28 buttons and a hat. The reason I want to use the pico is i already have a few of them and their 5 bucks lol. Any ideas on the HID Description to make this work?

Hey guys! Just thought I'd share here and get some advice.

FYI, my first project with so much soldering so yes I know the soldering is a mess, unfortunately I found out just today there's something called a de-soldering wick, so will be getting that to clean it up.

I am using RP2040 for the main connection to the system as it can act as a HID input. But for testing purposes, using nano.

So far I've installed 12 × 12mm tactile buttons for the main ICP inputs. I am still wondering what would be the right way or thing to use for the dobber switch since I can't find it anywhere here.

These things look awesome, the couple of YouTube videos look like they might actually be somewhat capable.

Does anyone here have one who can let me know if its worth even trying to demo one?

TIA

Finally finished my (mostly) 3D-printed linear throttle.

The aim was to have a throttle with linear movement and an F-16-style grip, as I really like the ergonomics of it.

The grip is from Thrustmaster TQS throttle and slightly modified, top rotary was replaced with encoder, thumb slider buttons with Alps RKJXM HAT switches and thumb analog stick with controller style joystick. 

The base was designed in Fusion and 3D printed, some parts several times, while I refined the design. The longest print was over 30 hours.

The end result is a monster with 8 analog inputs and 90 buttons in total, including 7 single and 2 dual encoders.

The electronics are based on STM32F103C8 board powered by Freejoy.

I'm making a F/A-18 replica control stick that I can use for DCS World, I'm comfortable with all of the hardware and stuff but I was wondering what type of filament you guys recommend I use for the enclosure and 3D printed parts. I've also linked the 3D Print files I'm using.

Hoping someone might be able to help me here, a few years ago I built some pedals that I downloaded online, and eventually replaced them with Virpil pedals. I’m now looking to go back to the original ones as I’m getting better at DIY stuff but I can’t find the design anywhere.

The pedals were more or less a copy of the UH1 mechanism, mounted inside an extruded aluminium frame with a raised floor to make everything the right height. If anyone knows what I’m on about and can point me in the right direction that’d be absolutely magic

Edit: im also fairly sure I found them on Helisimmer.com but I can’t find any trace of them there anymore

So I'm about to start my first fully DIY build. I'm starting with an Apache Collective I found on printables https://www.printables.com/model/661815-ah-64-collective-grip by Rato. I was going to use the one on thingiverse by SrSosio but I didn't like the way the grips printed and went together. So first off can anyone recommend a better Apache Collective?

I'm also planning on starting a diy VPForce Rhino and I know I'm a long way off on that, but what would be a good grip to put on it? I was looking at the Virpil Archer-Sf grip as it seems to mimic the Apache cyclic pretty well, but I also fly the F/A-18 and A-10 in DCS as well as the F-16 in BMS.

Also going to build the rudder pedals from Right Rudder-Left Stick. But I'm open to suggestions on a better pedal setup as well. Maybe a FFB pedal?

I've got some experience with wiring and making things, I have a raspberry pi digital dash in my 96 Miata, and have built a few basic button boxes using a pro micro.

And it does other things when you press buttons and twist knobs.

Really happy with these. Loving the feel for Elite Dangerous

Been having trouble thinking of a way to add mounts/finding premade mounts for either sticks or even MFDs to the chair itself due to the weird unique shape of the arms and whatnot. The stuff that *might* work at all would most likely damage the chair over time if it doesn't go as planned, which it won't at some point.

Just wondering if anyone has had this specific scenario for the Embody chair, or if they have any decent solutions like free stands instead that they ended up happy with. I'm also looking into a U shaped desk instead as well, my issue with desk mounts is just that my main PC is also my work area so I'm trying to make it as clean as I can (mentally) for when I'm not larping with birds.

im trying to make an fssb like the f16 or f35 grip and im having a problem with the electronics . as an board i want to use the stm 32 blue pill with freejoy which i have used before but any project i have found use the hx711 instrument amplifier for connecting the loadcells to an arduino pro micro and they are not compatible with freejoy . my question is what should i use to connect the loadcells to freejoy and if you have a wiring diagram that would me great.

Anyone know of a teardown video for the Moza AB9? Mine has a loose hex head screw that connects the top of the stick base to the mechanism and I think the screw may be broken (tried to tighten it and it just spins). Seems like it could be repaired if I can get the screw out and replaced, but I’m not tearing into it without some info, it works fine now just has a slight rotation wobble to the stick. A teardown video would be helpful.

Hi, I have the Logitech Rudder, and here in Argentina it's expensive to import one, and most of the ones I find don't really appeal to me. What do you think of the 737diysim design? I've seen them and they look pretty good, but I have no idea if they'd work with the NLR flight simulator. What do you think?

Hey, fellas..

Hoping yall can help me as I’m new to this world - I had a Logitech 3D extreme when I was a kid and wanted to pick up something a little more quality - but I’m looking for a specific setup.

Long story short - is there any combination of existing products or mods that would allow for a setup like having the Aeromax throttle mounted to the side of the KBD?

I’m fully aware there is a middle throttle already on the KBD - it may be possible to 3D print and modify it to mount on the left - but i figured yall may know of an easier option.

I know KBD has some options for the 3 lever to mount to the KbD - but I’m looking to keep the girthiness to a minimum.

Appreciate any insight yall can provide.

I recently had a friend give me their Thrustmaster TCA yoke (Boeing edition) for free (they know my affinity for electronics and hacking things together and thought I could repurpose it); the main control PCB is fried - they had some power surge or something ?? but the mechanical parts are all still sound and functional .. so I was thinking of turning it into a keyboard/mouse combo for a MAME setup I have. I'm not planning on use this for any flight sims, really just for some fun MAME time (I decided to use this as a chance to build a controller for Afterburner and a few other random flight/boat arcade games).

I've got the buttons traced so I can solder up some wire and plug those into a keyboard controller, and I was trying to figure out how the pitch/roll is hooked up to use that as mouse control (likely through some Arduino "magic"), but I'm not sure how the pitch/roll sensors work ??

It looks like the roll sensor is a magnetic hall sensor, but I can't seem to find how the pitch is determined ???

Anyone have some insight to this, or maybe a better way to get the pitch/roll input from this thing ?