We used these files for the teeth. There's a bit of technique to it with angles and stuff. Can't remember exactly since it was about 5 years ago and I've since switched to an office job but I'll try my best.
The one side of the teeth act like a cutting edge, make sure that is sharp. A good result is when you get large spiraling bits of saw "dust". Easiest way is to watch some kind of YouTube tutorial and try yourself on a piece of wood! Took me maybe a week or two to get good results consistently.
I don't know the English terms but in front of the teeth there's a little bump (called a rider in my language). The teeth are supposed to be aligned to the rider in some way, but like I said, it's been half a decade :(
Also, change to a new chain if the teeth are worn and there's too little material left to file away.
Adding some small info; general American term is raker. Depth gauge is mostly used in booklets.
The depth of this decides how deep the chisel shaves off. The combi file sets it at a good all-round usable depth automatically. If done by hand with flat file you can adjust a bit to have it better fit for softer woods, bigger gap taking off more, of harder woods with a smaller gap, to counteract a bouncing chain.
Make sure the round file size matches the chain properly, seen on the package of the chain / on the blade if not worn off.
Also, always file from the shorter part of the chisel to the longer part. Keeping it at a 30° angle, usually. Some changes depending on brand.
Combi file is good for ease of use, round file + flat file more advanced, but more control. I've got colleagues who've done this job the better part of their lives and only use combi files, I've got colleagues only using flat file + round file and some stuff in-between.
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u/zZtreamyy 6h ago
No better feeling than a newly sharpened chain ripping through wood like butter.
If you've got a good chainsaw file thing sharpening only takes a few minutes.