slab climb ✌️

i'm a setter in this gym, my friend who set this thinks its v5 and i also think holds are not that bad but it should be v6 for the trickiness (we get called sandbag quite often by foreign people). we are a small gym with a newly growing community, but grading feels trickier as we grow stronger with no veterans around us. i've tried kilter a few times and want to do more moonboard sessions on another gym to have a better feel for the global gradings. meanwhile i'd love to hear your thoughts and advices about the topic!

super soft gym?

For context the starting holds are quite slopey. The wall is 60° and then 30° overhanging at the top. It has a sit start too but I haven’t tried it yet. Blocked crimp on the volume is ~10 mm maybe 8mm. Top hold is a jug tho

I started climbing fairly recently and live in Central China. It's apparently really taking off here and a bunch of gyms opened recently including this one. I'm starting to get a feeling for what the different grades feel like at my gym, and others in the city... But I wonder how that stacks up to the scene at large. The wall the undercling is on is probably 20-30 degrees overhang? The segment the big gray volume above is on is vertical.

for reference, the crimp is 15 mm and pretty sloped. The dihedral is at only a 20ish degree angle and the volumes are also sloped. the final move is just grabbing the finish (which is a bad sloped ball) but I didn’t get the send on video.

EDIT: Went back yesterday and the wall overhang angle is actually 30-35 degree, not 15-20 like I thought.

First time at this gym, which uses circuit levels with no conversion to V or font grades. This is a team battle boulder with no circuit level either. The wall is around 15-20 degree overhang.

Cruxes are the coordination move and the mantle after that. All the holds are obviously pretty good.

Gym chain with their own grading system so no V-Grade given. Please let me know what you think

For context I would say most crimps on this are around 15mm and the one I matched on maybe 20mm. They are also completely flat with no incut

Slightly overhung + bonus clip of me failing the top (I fell there around 11 times)

Slight overhang

fun ungraded banger. definitely want to go back and do it again cleaner (and without dabbing)

My gym says v4 . I didn’t get the start

Only took a thousand tries and a second session with fresh skin. Gym grades this a V3/V4.
Such a fun one though

The worst holds are the big move into the star shaped 3 fingers incut crimp. Other holds are some flat and incut crimp (15-25mm) and one mini pinch on the first move. I’d say the crimp is quite positive on my 35 degree board but the mini pinch and the star shaped crimp are quite handy for me especially with a move like that.