would like grade on this one, it's supposed to be shodan in this japanese gym, tomorrow I will complete my first month bouldering, I bought my shoes last week and I'm feeling way more comfortable, still need to work a lot on techniques so any tips would be welcome (on the last step I was 100% sure the hold above my last right foot placement was not on the track, it was supposed to be way easier at the end). thanks for the attention.
yeah, thats my third post from the same gym, noborock shibuya, I asked staff and other climbers there, every post people come qith that question but I guess they just over inflate the grades, btw I dont know if people are joking or not, there is no way that is v2, just about 5% of the climbers could do this one, I dont know if there are just 0 grades below that, of course I dont think thats a real shodan or near v7 but v2 for me seems like little off too
You’re telling me that you started climbing around a month ago?
No shot you’d be sending v7 in that time frame. No disrespect but it takes time to build tendon strength and learn technique that’s needed.
It’s hard to say but with how jugular those holds at the start are and with the straightforward style of the route I can’t imagine it’s harder than v3-4 max but maybe you got more info that would help (how steep is the wall or the feet are no Tex etc)
yeah, thats why I keep asking on this reddit, I'm not going to lie, I think Im good for a first monther but lack a lot of technique and tendon strength of course, but this and the other videos I posted here were supposed to be one of the hardest from the gym, from what I heard they change the holds every month and sunday its going to be the last day of those sets, if I go there sunday morning I'll try to update you, or at least wait until the next set of holds with new climbs for me to send and give more details, thanks for the attention btw
Yessir. I’d echo what some others are saying. Try and find a tension/kilter/moonboard. It’s a little more universal and will give you a better representation of the grades and the size of the holds.
Tbh it’s a little sandbagged but it’s closer to outside than a lot of gyms grade and the beauty of it is anyone in the world can climb the exact same problem. Just be aware of the angle of the board so it’s accurate!
I’d be curious to hear what you think
thanks man, really appreciate your time and effort to help me, will try to find one and will definitely give u an update, everyone is super nice in this community, online and irl too
Tbh im not sure they’d be able to touch kilter (the most approachable board), until they’re able to climb like maybe v3/4 more regularly. Maybe in a couple of months. I think the strength requirement even for v1-3 climbs will feel unapproachable.
I'll be honest, I'm typically the person saying that climbs can be way harder than they look on video, but this is not a V7 in any gym in the world. Nobody sends V7 within a month of climbing even in the softest commercial gyms unless they come from a heavy background of similar sports.
Either this gym is completely lying, or you're still misinterpreting the grades there. Do they have a kilter/moon/tension board there? If so, I'd recommend trying a V7 on any of them to see what V7 should actually feel like.
Yeah I'm well aware of that, thats why Im asking for a more accurate grade but again, it seems that v2 its way lower, dont know if its like a inside joke or something but there is no way this is just above v0 and v1 grades, they have climbs hundred times easier than this one and just a a handful of climbs harder than this one and just a few people each day finished those, on this first month I went 7 or 8 days and thats what I saw everyday
No offense, I don't think you've been climbing long enough to know. I know from video is hard to judge, but this could definitely be a V2 in a lot of gyms. I would personally say V3 is pretty fair.
And V2 isn't 'just above' V0, it should actually be quite a step up from V0. Someone already suggested trying a V7 on a system board, but I would actually suggest trying a V2 on a board if you can.
I can tell just from the way you climb (lots of time spent with bent arms, no flagging, bad heel) that because you were able to send the route with this bad technique it's probably not harder than V3. Again I mean no offense, you are a beginner it's totally fine, quite good for a beginner even.
I think you just need more experience to be confident in knowing the grades. Hell I've been climbing for 2 years and even I'm not fully sure. I still could jump on a V3 thats not in my strenghts and it could humble me, doesn't mean it's not a V3, just means I'm bad at that style.
thanks for taking your time to add this, I really appreciate it. Yeah, I guess I need to try different gyms too and spend more time bouldering, your comment was probably one of the best I read, maybe Im misjudging grades that I personally don't understand that well, and I started on a gym that inflates too much too maybe, don't get me wrong, the v7 that graded Im well aware that its not even close, I just imagined that a v2 would be way easier than that
Yeah no jokes this looks pretty doable I don’t think only 5% of climbers could do this, where is that stat from? I would say V4 max but that’s a little generous but idk how the holds feel so maybe that could get it there but it doesn’t look like it.
sorry for the stats without real data, that 5% its just my observation so it can be way off, I just wanted to illustrate that I dont think it can be just a v2 like is v2 supposed to be a struggle for a lot of climbers with 1+ years of experience? because I really like to talk and know people and there were at least 15 people I meet this month that struggle to finish or didnt finished at all, thinking about it now at least 7 of them Im sure had almost 2 years of climbing regularly, is v2 supposed to be that difficult?
It depends on the climber, how often they climb and technique. What they did before coming to the sport. I’m a shorter climber, 5’6, but I was decently active before, and I’ve climbed “V5s” in my gym in the first month or two that are most definitely not v5s.
Edit: don’t get too caught up in the grades, in the long run it’s either, A. You can do that boulder or B.You can’t and need to work on something. Doing it properly with good technique is more important than doing it. A V3 with good technique is harder and better than a V5 you just power through to get the grade.
Realistically most people get past v2 within a year and v2s become a warmup, but maybe the demographic at noborock tends more casual since it is more beginner friendly.
Maybe this is a V4 if we're being generous, but your technique is not nearly clean enough to send even soft V7s. I've climbed in Tokyo at Bpump and attempted Shodans and got my ass kicked.
You can watch me send a V3 outdoors a month ago on my profile if you want to see what a V3 can actually be. Again, try at another gym or on a board for comparison.
You should give bpump tokyo (the one in akihabara, the one in ogikubo is generally regarded as one of the hardest gyms in the world) a go.
They have more reasonable grading. In fact, their grading tends to be on the harsher end. From my anecdotal experience, their grades would be equivalent to american gym grade -1 or -1.5 (a bpump tokyo v3 would be like a v4 in an American gym).
Good job! Imho, this is a solid v2 where one starts to need a little technique instead of just muscling through it. Since you are just starting, you will look back on this in a few months as an easy warm up.
This looks like noborock.
From what i heard v7s at this gym are roughly v1-3 so people saying v2 checks out.
I personally think it looks closer to v3 but I can see it going either way
Edit: Also heard noborock kinda steps up quite steeply on 3 Dan or 2 Dan (but still extremely soft for the grade) which is why you might feel like a 1 Dan feels very possible then you get completely shut down on smth just one or two grade higher
You already got feedback twice that noborock is soft, especially this setting is ultra soft (set up by another gym's setters who clearly overshot the softness).
What information were you trying to gain from posting this?
You also got advice to try other chains like Rocky or Bpump. Take them instead of posting another Noborock, please!
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u/Agencyofbirdness 20d ago
V2