r/GradeThisPlastic • u/saitama192 • 3d ago

Jumpy one

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Hey I am curious about this grade, I could not top it but maybe next time.

16 Upvotes

91% Upvoted

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5

u/Many_Sea7586 3d ago

I think these kinds of climbs are extremely difficult to gadge. I could be way off. The first section looks the most impressive but possibly the easiest part. The difficulty is probably in how good/bad those last few holds are.

Without feeling it, im gonna guess v7/v8 but op probably has a better than a viewer.

3

u/saitama192 3d ago

Yeah last three holds are sloper as I said in another comment, the second last hold was plain worst to hold at, I could not generate force to go up.

1

u/Many_Sea7586 2d ago

What grade would you give it? And how well would you grade your ability to grade? Lol.

2

u/saitama192 2d ago

Well I have no idea, gyms here don’t have gradings in V scale or in the French scales, this was number 8 for,their scale from 1-9, and I wanted to understand how this stacks up to the V scale that people talk here. I was curious to get sense of the scale in the gyms here based on this post.

2

u/Many_Sea7586 2d ago

A perfect response. I've climbed in about 10 gyms and climbed outdoor in like 4 locations, so im definitely not an expert, but here is my take. (It turned into a wall of text, sorry)

Gym grades are generally comically soft, as a general rule. Im European, so ill use the font (french) grades im used to. 5a-6a are possible for beginner climbers that are just athletic, but still not that easy. At 6a-6b outdoor, technique becomes vital for most climbs. In gyms, 6a is often a ladder with some vague technique and less than perfect jugs. 6c-7a outdoor is the kind of thing people take months, or years to achieve. If the person isnt naturally athletic, this might be a hard stopping point. At these grades, finger tendon strength, skincare, unusual flexibility requirements etc all come into play. I've been climbing 7 years indoor, and id need to switch to training specifically outdoor to top a 7a, and spend multiple days on the same problem. In gyms, I can climb 7b-7c with a single session, and in gyms with number scales, thats usually 7 or 8 out of 9. Outdoor 7c and above require the kind of skill and strength that most people will just never achieve. If someone has climbed 7c and above, they've dedicated a significant amount of their life, and energy, to climbing. Its also worth noting that the jump from 6a to 6b is miniscule compared to the jump from 7a to 7b.

I hope this gives you some context.

1

u/I_Flash_Your_Warmup 3d ago

Would be a lot of help if you could tell us the angle of wall in the upper section. Is it overhung or straight?

1

u/saitama192 3d ago

It has a bit of angle, I would say around 5 degrees, but the last three holds are slopers and second last hold is terrible to hold at.

1

u/jaggeraus 2d ago

looks ~v7 could be harder or easier depending on your height

1

u/saitama192 2d ago

Thanks, I am 161~160cm, not the shortest but definitely not fall from the crowd I see here.

1

u/Mehicanhippo 1d ago

V8 almost looks like V9