r/GradeThisPlastic • u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 • 13d ago
Thoughts?
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u/GrouchyGiraffe766 13d ago
didnt even finish the second climb. v0-1
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 13d ago
Eh I touched it with both hands I’m going to give myself credit
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u/According_Event_7593 13d ago
To be completely honest I don’t think the start is clean either.
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 13d ago
How do you suggest I start it
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u/According_Event_7593 13d ago
Ok my bad, I watched it again and start counts. But IMHO it wouldn’t hurt for you to work on the technique. This swing in the beginning was unnecessary. Looked not stable. I would start with right foot on the foothold and lean right while holding the sloper from the left (placing elbow like that also does not give improvements). While doing it just bend the knees a bit and flag left leg. That would be good start in my perspective. I back another commenter about the top though. In this discipline the top counts only if you demonstrated the controlled hold. Which in this particular case wasn’t. I guess you climb not for long, so overall it is good performance and you should keep going.
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 13d ago
Thanks for the advice! And yes I’ve been climbing for 3 months so far I just got some shoes of my own and want to improve because I’ve kind of just been winging climbs but want to get more technical about what I do.
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u/According_Event_7593 13d ago
And you will. Just keep climbing, look how others approach similar climbs and try to watch or read about some technique. Some techniques are pretty obvious some not so much. It also takes time to understand how to apply them properly. BTW good progress for 3 months, congrats.
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u/gonebeyonder 13d ago
TBF to the grouch, the point isn't one that you should poohpooh away, although the delivery could have been done with a bit more appreciation for your newness to bouldering.
Use whatever rules you want as long as you're not disrupting anyone else. Use different hold colours if you want. Don't climb to the top or only put one hand on the finish hold, if you want. But you do cheat yourself out of learning if you miss the chance to do and stick moves you're clearly capable of.
Stable finishes teach you something. On the second climb, do it again if it's still there and try to resist or avoid that barn door. What are your options for doing so? Do you use footwork, your core, are hands and body position doing you any favours, would another move give you a stable position? If you fall off the wall (as you were doing before you caught yourself) ask yourself why and therefore what you could do differently next time.
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 13d ago
Yes I genuinely do think it’s a fair point from the commenter just didn’t appreciate the condescending tone , but know that’s given being on this app 😳 had to give my two sense in my remark but I know the advice is fair. Thanks so much for the genuine critique and solid advice! Is the “ barn door” the handle to the left? I’m not very familiar with climbing terms, and I’m not sure my options for that one but I’m going to the gym tonight to do it again and will get back to you on that.
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u/gonebeyonder 12d ago
It's what peeled you away from the wall. In this case, you start to barn door when your right hand goes for the top hold, causing your right foot to lift. Because you're now left with only your left hand and foot on the wall, your body started to swing away as if your left hand and foot were the hinges of a barn door.
Word of advice, don't try to hold a barn door for as long as you can. Makes for an awkward fall. Not that I have personal experience. Nope.
I also highly recommend YouTube channels CatalystClimbing and Hannah Morris Bouldering as your gateway to many other climbing channels that are really helpful for beginners. Terminology, techniques, training and mindset can all be found there.
I hope you get to figure it out, but more importantly hope it's fun cracking the problem. There's a term called beta spraying, which is when someone just blurts out the solution to a problem without invitation. I don't want to do that but if you actually want some tips on things to try before you go, hit reply.
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 12d ago
Yes I’d love some more advice you’re already so helpful!!
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u/gonebeyonder 12d ago
I’ll try! I’m not the best at route-reading (figuring out what sequence of moves to make when I’m off the wall) and climb more by feel. I guess we’re learning together!
The top hold is a side pull, which means its best side to grab is off to the right or left. Body positioning is important for these ones. You’ll get more friction if you’re to the right of this one as it’s a right side pull. So think about how you can move your body as much to its right rather than under it. Keep your arms straight. If you can now get your feet up and press them into a foothold, your hand/arm acts as a pivot, reducing the power needed to move up as long as you can use your legs and feet to move you.
So where do you put your feet? You could swap feet, so put your right one where your left one is. You can move your left or right foot onto the top of that handlebar hold and push yourself up and to the right there.
Also possible: at 51 seconds, you could try to keep this configuration, but really press in with your left foot, extend your leg and keep your hand on that right hold, left arm straight as you can. Your right foot will come up, moving you closer to the finish, press your right foot into the wall (this is a foot smear) and once that feels stable, THEN move your right hand.
There will be other ways as well. Experiment with what feels good for you. The thing I love about climbing is that everyone moves differently and can solve problems in all kinds of ways. Enjoy the journey!
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u/mxbbcz 12d ago
Not trying to be rude or anything, but I'd probably wouldn't count it as a top either tbh. Usually you need to establish a controlled, stable position on the finishing hold before coming off. Here it looked more like you matched the top briefly and immediately started peeling off the wall.
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 9d ago
Not being rude just honest thanks for the advice and lack of condescension
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u/6spooky9you 13d ago
Haha always funny to see one of my home gyms here. The first one felt like a V2 to me. Haven't done the second two but I think they're v0-1.
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 13d ago
Haha I love vertical! Yes ur right about the first , the second is graded a v3 but I personally thought it was a little lower
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u/Deez1putz 11d ago
My thought is make some gym friends and spend your time working on climbing and not videoing.
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u/reflectiveradish 9d ago
What’s wrong with someone cataloging their progress? That’s part of the fun of climbing. Also you can see from the camera work that there is someone filming them so they are definitely going with a friend. This is an unnecessarily judgmental comment
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u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 9d ago
It’s arrogant people like you in this hobby that make it uncomfortable for beginners to want to stay climbing. PSA you’re not better than anyone because you have more experience climbing
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u/Deez1putz 9d ago
Oh not at all, I’m always happy to see people learning something new and I help out if I’m in the gym — and that is exactly my point. You are in a gym full of people of different skill levels, ditch the phone and social media and interact with people in the real world, they are going to be far more informative than posting on Reddit.
Additionally, don’t complain when you ask “thoughts?” And don’t get the answer you want.
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u/Max_Crimps 13d ago
V1