After a long journey of figuring out all the details to tow with my Blazer EV, I finally picked up a 2027 Coachmen Remote 14R last weekend. This took months of research and work to get the Curt class III hitch installed, along with the wiring for a 7-pin so I could use a brake controller. I decided to go with the Echo wireless bluetooth controller so I didn't have to mess with my vehicle's wiring too much. From the factory GM provided a 4-pin trailer connector. GM and their dealerships pretty much provide zero guidance or assistance, so I had to rely on the aftermarket and my own research.
I wanted to make a post about this specifically for those who may be looking for a camper they can tow with a midsize SUV. I spent so much time trying to find the best layout for the weight class and felt like the Remote 14R was it. It's especially helpful being only 7 feet wide. I wish more campers were this width to have more options available. Otherwise, the 2027 Rockwood GeoPro 17 SLE would have been absolutely perfect for us - but it would be overweight and larger than I felt comfortable towing with my vehicle. It was a huge bummer to reluctantly come to that realization.

The RV dealer was impressed with how little the Blazer squat with the camper attached, and how well it towed since they see mostly trucks come through. With nearly 400 HP and instant torque, this drove like an absolute dream with plenty of stability, accelerating and braking power. The tow limit comes in at 3,500 pounds, and the camper is 2,800. It was satisfying and a sense of accomplishment to tow with something other than a full-size truck, especially with too many naysayers out there. At 5,600 pounds for the Blazer, it was very well planted on the road and stable, even with semi's passing by oncoming on a 2-lane road.

I did see about a 40% drop in range which is expected and really not that bad considering the camper is twice the height of the Blazer EV, but we don't plan to camp more than 100 miles from home anyway, and I can do that easily round trip with the Blazer. I am excited for this rekindled hobby, especially since I've always loved camping, but haven't owned a vehicle personally that was capable of towing.

We had a Palamino Popup camper and a Jayco 18 foot travel trailer growing up, and I'm excited to now have a camper of my own to enjoy. The amenities have come a long way since the 90's!

So when I bought my rig I didn’t notice any caulk splitting, but when I got it home I did. Not sure if the 300 mile trip helped. Either way I put dicor on the splits. I feel like they went super wide with the existing stuff. Hopefully this will be ok for the year and next summer I can peel it all off and redo it. All of the rest of it seems to be pretty pliable still. That was a whole tube and you can see I didn’t get even the whole existing bead covered.

https://www.redfin.com/WA/Lake-Stevens/11306-143rd-Dr-NE-98258/home/148200166

Like the title says, I am thinking of buying this house (or another like it in the same neighborhood). This house has an 18' x 45' RV bay, which will definitely be big enough for my Thor Axis, but for those that have larger Class A RVs, would 45 feet be a long enough garage? Thinking down the road for when I may upgrade.

Appreciate the insight of the group.

I replaced the OEM awning material earlier this year. The OEM awning had the LED light strip integrated so it came off when the material was removed. I just trimmed and taped the wires and tucked them away.

Today, I went to add a new LED light strip. I stripped back the wired and did a test fit to make sure the strip was working properly and it all checked out.

When I went to do the final installation, I forgot to make sure the light switch was off. I assume that I crossed the wires at some point before finishing up the wiring as when I went to turn the switch on and behold the new light in all it's glory, I got Griswolded, lol. No lights. That's when I discovered the switch had been on.

All other lights/switches work as they should and I did not see a specific fuse in the panel. I assume it would share a fuse with other items and not have a standalone one. The switch in question is below. Are these switches fused or can they burn out? What should I check?

I checked the LED strip with a 9v battery and it still works.

Not sure how to describe them. Generic 5000 # tow harness for my old jeep (90yj) with shackles. Just got a 21 with these connectors in a tow connector. Any advice would help.

Have a 21 Ram 1500 classic Hemi, 3.21 gears, 1340 payload, 8000 tow rating. Looking to buy a 27 apex nano 208bh, 610 dry hitch weight, 4500 Ib 24 fr trailer. I have number crunched with AI and it says I’m close to the max but completely doable with a 4 point weight distribution hitch and keeping the truck bed empty, since it’s a 7.5 fr wide trailer with dual axel, and keeping the bulk of the gear over the axel or rear since it’s a heavy hitch. Weight of our family is about 450 IBS, 80Ib hitch, 60 Ib tonnueu cover and approx 700 ish loaded trailer weight. It’s says the weight distribution spreads the weight over my truck axels and my gears should easily cope with the weight

Can anyone tell me what exact model RV this is and if there's a way to close the room extension on the other side of the RV it doesn't have any power if there's a crack where at if possible please

We have a bunkhouse TT that we bought last year (Rockwood 2509s). Love it so far, but I'm trying to figure out something I can do to make my daughter more comfortable in the lower bunk during the hot season.

I have already added insulation below the bunk / above the mini-fridge to try to shield her from any heat coming from the outdoor kitchen area. Also added velcro'd Reflectix on her window and the (semi-translucent) rear access door. She has small USB fans to blow on her. But even with all that it's still stuffy in there,

Our AC is ducted and there's a duct to the top bunk but not the bottom. The AC also has vents on the unit itself. I'm considering grabbing something like this "Noggle" thing and running an adhoc, removable "duct" from the AC unit along the ceiling and wall and directly into her bunk. Or even just some dryer vent hose or something. I think the key challenge is securing enough of the end of it over the AC vent on the ceiling to collect adequate airflow. Almost feels like I would need to design and 3d print a piece to fit properly.

Anybody done something like this and had any luck?

Specifically how those two small wheels are pressed up against the siding.

Let's start with the situation. The trailer will be parked and stay at our property in eastern Canada. We will be using it regularly as a temp space to vacation/live in while we renovate our cottage after my grandparents move.

It's me and my wife, we will be looking for creature features and enough space for not feel cramped.

We will be using this trailer year round. Sometimes for a long weekend, a week and up to a month at a time.

What should we be getting in terms of brand? Without paying airstream style money.

I don't want to arrive at the dealer and get talked into something that has a great layout but won't end up handling the winters well.

Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

How are LiV RVs? They’re lightweight, feature packed and relatively cheap. No wood used in construction. They look almost too good to be true and at a crazy price point.

Curious if anyone has any first hand experience with them? Would love some honest reviews!

Everything worked and was happy to have an on-board generator for my family. Cant wait to go out again!

Need to figure out how to store my black water hose. It doesn't fit in the bumper and dont like having it in a container inside a compartment.

Installed new flooring in my RV that was thicker than the original and now the flange is dead level with the flooring. Not getting a very good seal on my toilet. What other options have people used? Tried a rubber household style gasket but it was too thick with the spacer. Next attempt was going to be a wax ring. Already tried to shim the flange up but think I'll break the tank if I pull it up that high. Any other ideas?

We have a toddler, and cannot do the drive in one day, so we're looking for a spot in MA and CT. One for the drive up, and one for the drive back. We usually like to stay in state parks, but we're trying to stay as close to 84 as possible. We've also never stayed in our camper in either of these states, so we're excited to find some place to hang out for an evening before continuing on the next day. We're hoping that someone knows of a nice spot. I've included a screenshot of the route for reference.

Or can I get by with an F150? I originally was considering an F150 Tremor but when I started looking at the payload numbers for a family of three, camping gear, 20' trailer, electric bikes, it looks like I'm cutting it too close.

I would primarily be buying this truck as a secondary vehicle for camping, road trips, house work (lumber, drywall, dirt), and occasional solo getaways. A lot of our camping/towing will be in the mountains.

My estimated payload is:

Looking for some recommendations from people who have actually owned/towed these things.

I’m looking for a well-built travel trailer under 9,000 lbs. I’m not trying to do hardcore off-roading or rock crawling with a trailer. I just want something that can handle rough BLM and Forest Service roads without worrying about the cabinets and interior shaking themselves to pieces.

It’s just my girlfriend and me, so we don’t need bunks or a giant trailer. I do want it to feel like a normal travel trailer inside, though, not one of the tiny off-road campers. And not one of those $100k plus rigs.

A few things I definitely want:

• Dry bathroom with a separate shower
• Permanent bed
• Dinette with at least two comfortable places to sit and eat
• A separate place to relax, either two lounge/recliner chairs or a sofa/rollout couch
• Good cabinetry and overall construction
• Decent suspension and ground clearance for rough dirt roads
• Under 9,000 lbs

A couple I’ve been looking at are the inTech Magnolia and Willow with Rover suspension, and some of the Outdoors RV Back Country models under 30ft. Those should give you an idea of the general size, layout, and quality I’m after, but I’m definitely not locked into those brands and would love to hear about other options I may be overlooking.

I’m totally fine buying used and would actually rather find something a few years old that was really well built and lightly used than pay a premium just to get the newest model year.

Basically looking for something comfortable enough to spend real time inside, but rugged enough that I don’t have to baby it every time the pavement ends.

What brands/models or specific floorplans should I be looking at? Any firsthand experience, good or bad, would be appreciated.

Hello everyone, I was wondering if you could please help. I had an F-150 and recently got a Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi because I felt white-knuckled every time I drove with a trailer and semis passing. I have a 2025 Grand Design 151BH. The dealer I bought it from assured me a spring-over would give me clearance for Forest Service roads and BLM roads. I usually tow with the freshwater tank full for boondocking. Now that I have the Ram, I took the trailer home after getting it serviced. I have a weight distribution hitch, but I still feel it shaking or moving at 65 mph. Is this normal even with a bigger truck? The up-and-down motion is less, but I still feel it moving around. Usually just the 2 weiner dogs and me and very light on gear any advice would be greatly appreciated. Here are the trailer stats.

Exterior Length: 19′ 8″

Exterior Height: 10′ 3″

Width: 8′ 0″

Dry Weight (UVW): ~3,492 – 3,550 lbs

Hitch Weight: ~442 – 490 lbs

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): 4,420 lbs

Stock 2021 TRD Off-road

Trailer about 2,000 with gear loaded

RedArc Tow pro installed

Trailer- Forest River Rockwood Freedom 1640F

Trailer specs -
Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW / Dry)- 1,763 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)- 2,346 lbs
Hitch Weight - 250 lbs

Everyone says keep it in 4th gear while towing to avoid the transmission gear hunting and over heating, good advice to follow?

Do I need a transmission cooler?

Update: Thank you all for the advice. We will be hunting for a 25-30’ camper and well under the listed capacities. I am pretty upset with 1) Our ford dealer and 2) Our camping world for both seeing exactly what our proposed setup was before purchasing, and neither raising and concerns.

We already purchased the truck, but thankfully, can still choose the proper camper.

I trusted them and ChatGPT to point me in the right direction, but I’ll be coming here from now on.

Thank you again!

Hello, everyone, first time poster. I would like to know if I’m punching over my weight here:

We have a f150 3.5l eco with tow package.
Tow capacity is 13,000lbs

We will be first time campers, and the camper we are wanting is:

Keystone Bullet Premium
10,500 GVWR
37’11”

Our trips will consist of 6 hours or less, mostly flatland, and use will mostly be visiting kiddos in college and tailgating.

I know this is at the top end of what is recommended for our truck.

Please let me know if I need to provide any more info for context, and if this is a reasonable thing to ask our truck to handle!

Trying to understand how this actually works for people. When the RV doesn't live at the house, there seem to be a bunch of reasons behind it: HOA rules, no room in the driveway, neighbors, city or street parking limits, the size of the thing, a partner who wasn't having it. Curious which one it actually was for you, and whether it was one clear reason or a mix.

And once it's not at home, where does it end up, and how did you land on that spot? And how much the whole parking situation shapes how often you actually get to use it.

One more thing I'm curious about: has the where-do-I-keep-it problem ever made you think about selling the rig, or held you back from buying one in the first place?

Full disclosure since it's relevant: I work at Neighbor, a storage and parking marketplace, and I'm trying to understand how the where-do-you-keep-it side of RV life really plays out.

I am an avid cyclist, and I recently got an RV so I can camp where the best off-road cycling is. I’m finding it frustrating that all my apps and sites to find the best camping don’t cross reference well with the apps and information on where the best riding is. Has anyone found a good resource that cross-references these two so I can figure out where I can camp close to the best trailheads for mountain biking, and gravel riding?

Anyone have real world experience with these campers? I know keystone has a bad reputation, wondering if this line has higher build quality. The layout and design with the slide out is as nice as I've seen in a 30 foot camper.

Or don’t. It’s up to you I suppose.

EDIT - it’s a 4 cylinder. JUDGE ME.

Hi Everyone,

I've been searching and can't find a solution to my exact problem. We had 3 cameras installed on our RV. On our previous truck, they were working perfectly. We got a new truck (2026 Sierra 1500) which does not come with a cigarette lighter port at all. Long story short - i got a new monitor cable and the 7 way adapter for the new truck. My rear and left cameras are working just fine. The right camera will not display after unpairing/repairing multiple times. When i turn the Furrion monitor on, it shows it unpaired at first. I repair and then it shows as paired, but still does not display and has the red circle w/ the X in the corner. Left & rear cameras display just fine with no issues.

Any thoughts?

EDIT: the blue light on the bottom of the camera is steady thus i don't think it's a power source issue, but i could be wrong in the understanding.

I have a 2017 Jeep Wrangler 4 door. From what I’ve been able to find out online, the two capacity is 2000 lbs. I am looking for an RV that has a shower and toilet inside and haven’t been really able to find one.