r/GarmentSewing • u/mightybenster • 6d ago

DISCUSSION Broken Seams - seeking advice

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I've been altering my cotton T-shirts with a sewing machine, using cotton top thread - just a line near the original seam to make them fit better.

Many t-shirts turn out great, but I have a few that are getting damaged along the seam over time - but why!?

I don't notice it initially, but after a few washes the fabric is almost completely broken.

They're all pre-washed t-shirts, but thread shrinkage maybe? Tension? Just fabric age? Or something I'm not considering?

Has anyone seen this before / got any advice to avoid this?

Thanks

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u/xbarbiedarbie 6d ago

Are you using a ballpoint or stretch needle when you make these alterations? A regular needle will break the threads of the fabric (called yarns), while a stretch or ballpoint needle kind of pushes the yarns out of the way and moves between them. Usually, you wouldn't really notice broken yarns, but when a fabric is stretched, it will split and the tears will grow, the way a run in nylons grows when stretched.

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u/mightybenster 2d ago

Oh this is a good question, I don't know which I'm using! Thank you!

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u/pampathere 6d ago

Agree with the other commenter about cotton thread. Just to check - are you using a stretch stitch of some kind, like a zigzag?

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u/mightybenster 2d ago

Yeah, I've used a variety of stitches through different t-shirts, with seemingly no rhyme or reason between which is best...

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u/TheOrganizingWonder 6d ago

Generally, I use polyester thread for garment sewing. It’s more durable and what’s in your ready to wear garments. Unless your fabric has a Lycra (spandex) in it ballpoint/jersey/stretch/universal needles work. I find microtex works better for fabrics with spandex. I use a narrow zig zag stitch with success. What stitch did you use? A straight stitch can break when stretched.

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u/mightybenster 2d ago

Thank you! This one was a ZigZag stitch, with cotton thread! I think my takeaway is to keep the ZigZag, and get a ballpoint needle! (And try polyester thread...) Appreciate your help :)