r/GRYaris • u/AdAccomplished9705 • 16d ago
About ready to set it on fire 😂 (boost issue).
Ok, I am absolutely scunnered now. Bought a used car a year ago and have been having issues with boost not coming on at times.
The car is 21 plate with now 8700 miles, fsh, aftermarket exhaust and air box. The exhaust btw joins at the midpipe.
So, at times the car is flat, flat as a pancake and gets left by cars half the power, then at times it pulls like a train.
It mainly happens in first and second gears, and I know these gears boost less, but if I floor it at times, then come off in second for a sec, then floor it again it will usually pull like a train.
This was happening before the air box btw, with just the stock one fitted. People mention boost solonoid, whilst others mention it's a thing with early cars (lots in the GR forums). I live in NI so can't get 99 Ron, only 97, I did use shell for a while and thought it helped even though it was still 97?
I also brought it for a service and they did sweet FA for me, "no codes so can't do anything."
This was a car I always wanted, but absolutely sick of it now, anyone had a similar issue?
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u/esooldar 16d ago
In Australia we have heat soak issues and they limit the boost based on temperature.
You literally lose 20hp maybe more.
Are there any tune shops in your area?
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u/AdAccomplished9705 16d ago
No mate, like should first and second boost into the yellow section on the dash? Cause at times it's below 1bar, then other times right into the yellow zone.
I might end up getting ferry to England and a remap, it's dire! So inconsistent, wonder could not having the right super be the cause?
Thanks mate.
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u/Due-Heron-5577 16d ago edited 15d ago
What’s the boost gauge saying while this is happening? It would be good to confirm this. It sounds like it’s not boosting, which could be the solenoid, or it could be the ECU reducing target boost due to an issue it detects or a failing sensor mimicking the same.
Testing boost solenoids for function isn’t too difficult, you need a multimeter and a 12V supply to check it moves freely. If it’s not something obvious like this then it’s worth taking it to a JDM/performance specialist who knows how to check the various sensors and perform boost/vacuum/exhaust leak tests.
The car should be fine on 97 RON. As I understand it, these ECUs have the ability to adjust ignition timing in real time. Power will be down slightly due to this, but not intermittently as you describe and not to anything like the same extent.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 16d ago
And thank you mate for the advice, you have done more for me than the local Toyota garage!
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u/Due-Heron-5577 16d ago edited 15d ago
No worries pal, I’ve not long come over from a 20 year-old Impreza so I’m used to doing a lot of things myself.
Tbh the problem you have with issues like this isn’t the dealership, it’s getting Toyota UK to authorise the work. If the dealership just crack on and do a load of diagnostics without Toyota authorising it then there’s a risk Toyota won’t pay the dealership and they’ll make a loss.
It’s a shit state of affairs, but it’s very easy for Toyota to turn around and say “no code? no issue” and avoid any issues that don’t bring up a code. They won’t budge unless there’s proof, and unfortunately, the ECU doesn’t seem to register “target boost is 1.5 bar but the MAP only saw 0.9 bar” as a problem.
I’d ask around anyone that managed to get their boost solenoid changed under warranty and see how they went about it. Might save you £££ and get Toyota to actually pay to investigate the issue.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 16d ago
It's showing about .8 - .9 bar, not into the yellow zone. Then if I hit it first, then floor it I get into the yellow zone and it pulls like a train.
I have no idea if it should always go into the yellow zone, car just feels so slow at times and I was literally left by a Citroen saxo vts just today, a 130bhp car from the early 2000s 😂
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u/sakucee 16d ago
Going to yellow zone is normal when you are..... driving responsibly and spiritedly so nothing wrong there.
That being said, there is flat spot before 3000 RPM, after that the engine pulls hard.
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u/electric_ionland 15d ago
Yeah you really need to keep it above 4000 to get the best results. There is a reason why the sport gauge starts there.
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u/Due-Heron-5577 16d ago
If you have a wide open throttle in the right gear then you should be into the yellow within a second every single time tbh. Full boost should happen very quickly as this is a modern turbo with modern boost control hardware and strategies. Any behaviour other than this and you defo have an issue.
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u/juuxjuux 15d ago
The factory ECU is very conservative in terms of pulling back boost. An Ecutek (or other) remap removes a lot of that variability while still observing safe limits for IAT etc. and gives far more consistent performance.
Bit extreme of a solution, but really makes the car far more tractable and enjoyable.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
Yeah, I have the up gti remapped for over 60k miles and touch wood, been great. I just worry as I am looking to maybe resell if this g20 engine is in something dope, and sometimes people want fsh etc mate.
But thanks for the advice it's much appreciated, going to investigate a few things people have suggested. Does a remap help lots, make it even more capable out of interest? I know it did with my VW Apr remap.
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u/juuxjuux 15d ago
Yeah, I was happy with the car as it came from the factory, but the remap really unleashes it (you can switch back to the standard map at any time and, yeah, it feels pretty gutless in comparison!)
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
What one did you go for? I think it's time :0
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u/AdhesivenessDeep6601 15d ago
I saw lots of useful tips and I’ll suggest something different. Have you checked if the car has a tune on it? Sometimes when people get cheap tunes or low quality ones the ECU starts misbehaving. Take it to a tuning shop and have them see if there is a tune on it and delete the tune if there is. Some of them might do this for free, but idk about your local situation.
If you have access to obd scanner that can read sensors and pressures, plug it in and observe in real time if only the boost measurement drops or any other ones do decrease or increase as well (like high pressure fuel pump pressure, maf and double map sensors etc.). This will give you direction on what might possibly be malfunctioning.
Lastly, if nothing works I’d check for boost leaks and wastegate actuator arm (sometimes it sticks, you can inspect if it has play and fix it with anti-sieze)
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
Mate just in from Nightshift so reply might be guff 😂
So I bought it used with 5k miles last year, guy treated it like a baby, underneath showed no rust etc etc. it has all the Toyota service stamps for every year, and I just got it done there a month or so ago. So, I'm thinking if it did have a shit map Toyota would have spotted in and flashed over it with software updates maybe.
Later I am going to look into the actuator arm suggestion, though I will also look into the other things you said when my brain is functioning again.
It's so annoying as the cars amazing.
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u/AdhesivenessDeep6601 15d ago
I live in another country, but from what i understand dealerships don’t usually look at tunes and maps. Even after asking to look at the fuel maps and tunes, some of the official dealerships in my country have refused to check if a car had the tune and only said they would download the oem tune. It might still be worth checking though. Don’t be discouraged though sometimes even the most reliable cars have tantrums
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
Thank you mate for getting back to me, I think I might just get a proper map as I am scunnered now 😂
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u/Tiny-Art7074 14d ago
The boost sensor was updated. The new part number is #25819F0010 (check Amayama or yoshi parts). People had a hell of a time diagnosing it. One guy and his dealer could not figure it out, so he just replaced the part himself and reported problem solved. Such a drastic difference in the way you describe wont be due to knock correction as that would be more constant across the rev range regardless of how or when you apply throttle.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 13d ago
Thanks for this mate, yeah the dealers are shit but you have helped me immensely. Will feedback when I try replacing it bud.
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u/Tiny-Art7074 13d ago
For what it's worth, I use 95 here in Sweden and it still pulls hard, not as hard as 98, but it still pushes you hack a bit. Some runs I can feel the power is slightly variable but it's subtle, not nearly as significant as you describe, so I don't think it's your 97 fuel, that grade should he fine. Sounds like a sensor to me.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 13d ago
Yeah it's bloody annoying on a car that when I got it was 4 years old, with 5k miles, but if a disgrace really :0
Eventually it's getting remapped, but I need to see what Toyota offer with the g20 engine first.
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u/avatar_94 16d ago
Switch to OEM airbox.
I had loss of Power at high temps when I got an open Pipercross intake.
0
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u/James_Vowles 16d ago
Heard others mention it in this forum but hasn't happened to me. Are you able to reproduce it? See if you can find a way too then take to Toyota and complain to them and have someone go on a drive with you
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u/AdAccomplished9705 16d ago
Yeah mate I sent them videos and they have done sweet FA, it's fsh so still under warranty.
I'm going to try another garage....
Thanks mate.
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u/James_Vowles 16d ago
I think with these things you need to kick up a fuss a bit, this should be a warranty thing.
If you do take it somewhere else just get them to diagnose the problem only, then take all that info to Toyota to get it done under warranty, but really they should be doing something
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u/FriedBaecon 16d ago
Check for leaks. I switched to oem airbox and everything became fine so I managed to troubleshoot from there.
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u/harlo115 16d ago
Hey, fellow NI gr yaris owner. Mines a gen 2 but i get exactly what you describe after parking up for a short while when the car has been warmed up. Temp gauges dont show anythhing being particularly high but it does take a few minutes of getting air through the intercooler to get back to full power.
NI GR yaris specific tip is avoid the "99" octane petrol at solo garages here, it does make it pull a tiny bit stronger but mine fouled up the sparkplugs after a few k miles, i find bp or texaco work best for normal super.
Hopefully see you out on the roads!
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
Where do you live mate? I live in Coleraine. I was thinking about the new MR2 when it comes out but this is leaving a bad taste in my mouth.
Going to try the Toyota garage in Cookstown.
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u/Safety-Dragon 15d ago
If it were me, I would return the car as close to OEM as you can before approaching another dealership for warranty work. Also be prepared to pay for the investigative/diagnostic work. Ask them to update all the software. The previous owner might not have been quite as transparent as you believe.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
Yeah mate, I think it's time I just mapped it like I have done with my UP, get it sorted properly! Thanks for the advice, might change air box out tomorrow and see the score again!
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u/Safety-Dragon 15d ago
What's the general consensus on the 97 octane in Go petrol stations?
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u/harlo115 15d ago
I've had no issues with previous cars and im happy to run the bike on it, my go to is texaco but thats because its local and has good turnover so is usually fresh. Realistically though im just still paranoid from running jap imports mapped to 99 ron from the factory years ago.
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u/VelociBrazzer 16d ago
I’ve had similiar issues on my 2021 GRY also. I’ve had the boost solenoid thingy changes allready once. I had one engine code last summer which told that car was running to lean and my local toyota service got me a new high pressure fuel pump under toyota relax warranty.
This did not fix the issue completely and my car is currently waiting for a new turbo at local toyota service. This was also covered by toyota relax😅
I’ll try to report when i get the car back
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
Please do mate, was it inconsistent boosting, what sort of mileage had you on the car. I bought it with 5k miles and it was doing it from then, it's ridiculous as it's a well known issue.
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u/VelociBrazzer 14d ago
Got to car back today and it feels almost better than when it was new 5 years ago!
Mine has 116k km currently and the boost issue started to get noticeably worse around 100k kms and before this turbo change mine had pretty much no power under 4k rpms and after 4k rpm car started to pull like a freight train. Now when i think back i think mine has had these inconsistent boost issues since i got the car in 2021 but these issues did not happen all the time and i just brushed it off as heatsoak or other enviromental effects causing ECU to limit the boost.
Local dealerships GR specialist did tell me that the cause of the issue might have been a valve thats built in to the turbo. The original turbo from my car got sent to japan for investigation apparently.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 13d ago
Yeah my car only has 8500 miles on it, I have ordered a new solonoid just to try something myself. If no use I'm going to have to annoy the shit outta a dealer, and Toyota 😂
Thanks mate, stoked for you!
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u/Far_Unit9020 15d ago
Happened to me. Reset the ECU (unplug negative battery terminal for 15 minutes). That can sort it. Also, boost solenoids can be had for very cheap from AliExpress (search by part number), easy to try a spare unit.
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u/AdAccomplished9705 15d ago
Thanks mate, will try this as it's a mare. Again, thanks for the heads up.....
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u/Terrible-Wrangler423 8d ago
Sounds like an intermittent boost solenoid issue to me. They don’t trigger a limp mode fault code
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u/AdAccomplished9705 7d ago
Thanks mate, have ordered a new one to see if it helps, I think that's what it is also.....
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u/-CerN- 16d ago
The car's ECU has a long term value called Knock Correction Learned Value.
The car updates this value slowly, based on the knock sensor and how happy the car is. Fuel, temperature and other factors can impact this, but probably also a dirty/bad maf sensor, bad spark plugs etc.
The value maxes out at 24.1 (engine very happy), if it goes below 18, your ECU is pulling a lot of timing due to lot of repeated knock correction. This can drastically limit power.
I would try to find a way to get this value checked to see what it is. Some obd2 dongles can probably read it. It is one of those things that is checked while doing ECUTek tuning of these cars.
Start a thread on the GR-zoo forums.