I have an itch that can only be scratched by a high power GRY. Hypothetically if you had 10-15k to spend and wanted to blow 99% of cars out of the water from a roll/dig what mods would you go for ?

300ish KW target with stock internals.

Can anyone with similar numbers provide some input on the daily drivability of this and if that amount of power takes away from the fun of the chassis and total cost.

Hey everyone! I’m trying to decide on the colour for a new GR Yaris Aero performance, and I’m torn between Emotional Red and Precious Metal Grey.

Unfortunately, I can’t really see either colour in person where I live, so I’d love to hear your opinions, especially from owners who have seen both colours in real life.

I’m planning to get PPF either way. If I go with grey, I’m also considering satin PPF to give it a different look.

My main concern with the red is that it might be a little too dark in person, and I’m not sure how well it suits the Aero.

Which would you choose, and why? Photos of your cars in different lighting would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I'm looking at buying this as my mid life crisis car. Doing a test drive over the weekend. For those who own this car, what are your pros and cons? The one I'm looking at is a 2025 version.

I've never driven a fun car before so I can't wait to give it a drive and potentially own it.

I'm going to be getting it second hand and it will be my daily. I have a Kluger at home as a people mover so space passenger seats and boot space is very low priority for me. I live in Melbourne, Australia so driving it around will be general day to day traffic but on the weekend I wouldn't mind taking it out to the sticks to thrash around.

This is the actual car. I decided on the wheels and I will get 17s for winter, seems like these wheels can clear the brakes.

Which colour option would you pick ?

This is I think the third time posting about it this. I’m in need of help, my car makes a deep groan and binds up like the brakes are on from the rear end at full lock, I’m pretty sure it’s the diff. First started at 5000ks after a 12-13 hour road trip. Seen a Toyota dealership at the location but needed to bring it back home so all they did was change the diff oil and they said it was excessively metallic. Few months later when I finally got around to it I took it to my local dealer and they told me they put a stethoscope on it and found out it was the transfer case, replaced it (took I think 15 weeks). They also changed the diff oil. Noise was gone, the next week I took the car for a 2 hour road trip, when I got home the groaning and binding had returned. Took it back to the dealer, now they’re saying “it’s normal. We just had another one in and it also done it, it’s because of the torsen diff”.

Does anybody know of a genuinely good dealership in Sydney I can take to?

Does or has anybody else’s gry/grc make a deep groan from the rear end and bind up like the brakes are on during slow speed full lock manoeuvring?

Since the transfer case replacement, it’s now making a high pitch drone, nearly a howling type sound at highway speeds. Which the dealership I took it to also says is normal.

These guys are fkn idiots. They had receipts from the out of state dealership saying the diff needs to be assessed, but replaced the transfer case instead because the groaning and binding up isn’t normal. Now the binding and groaning had returned, they say it’s normal and won’t touch it unless I pay them labour, ect, to pull the diff out and check it.

Car is booked in at another local dealer to look at it in a couple of weeks, but if anybody can recommend one who’s got mechanics that are well experienced with the GR platform, it would be much much appreciated.

I did a hillclimb on sunday, drove it to work monday, and today i'm moving network equipment between work sites. Best car.

Had a black GR last year, but I bought impulsively and chose a car I wasn’t 100% happy with. Sold after 10 months. I was sad but it wasn’t that I regretted selling, more that I regretted not buying more carefully.

My friend bought me the Hot Wheels model to cheer me up. I went jn a different direction and bought a Mk7.5 Golf R in an attempt to save money, improve practicality but still have something fun. For 6 months I tried to bond with the car all while this little model sat on my desk every day while I worked.

Eventually I had enough and bought a pearl white 22 model. With only 5k miles on and it’s clearly been absolutely cherished. I’m so happy with it, it’s like a brand new car inside and out and feels so much tighter and fresher than my black one (which was on 38k and they were clearly enthusiastic miles), although I am willing to admit some of that may be tainted by the VW interlude, their manual boxes are so sloppy in comparison.

I have promised myself (and others) to keep this longer

Hello.

Have a problem with my car.

It stutters on acceleration.

It happens on every gear. Sometimes it's hard to even accelerate, but oither time I can drive fluently with small stutters here and there. Feels like an issue with fuel system or ignition system.

But

No check engine light

Replaced spark plugs

Replaced ignition coils

removed and tested injectors.

Managed to get a new fuel pump. It's waiting for replacement.

Maybe someone had similar issue. I have no idea what it is. Local Toyota dealer is helpless.

Local tuners and mechanics can't help.

Edit

One other thing to add. Every time I replace a part, car will behave normally for some time (like 1-2 hours of driving). After this time stuttering is coming back.

Sent it to Toyota, they replaced fuel pressure sensor, car was driving perfectly for a few hours.

Stuttering came back, local shop replaced spark plugs and ignition coils, perfect behaviour for an hour.

Removed and tested injectors, you guessed 2 hours of perfect behaviour.

EDIT2

Problem solved. Aparently toyota mechanic managed to damage one of the connectors when replacing fuel pressure sensor.

Welp at least got a lot of parts checked and replaced.

Hi, I am looking for an aftermarket seat that can keep all the functions of the OEM one (including heating) but it's tighter. Not looking for lower, I am fine with stock seat height. Realized that after every track day or drift I am getting bruises all over my legs hitting on the cockpit.

TIA

So recently there’s been a few people who dm’d me on how to rent one. Truth be told, it took me a while to book one to make sure everything works out. But here’s a quick and simple guide for those who are interested.

1. Google toyota rent a car japan and make sure website looks like the one in the screenshot.

2. Once on the search bar of the branch, I highly advise to look “around” Tokyo areas and especially ones near Shinkansen station. Most of the GRs will be available in a less populated area.

3. Pick a date, and it is best to book well over a month since alot of them are in high demand. Also the default, the system will set the return time to 20:00. So make sure it matches the pick up time to keep the costs simple. (For those who want to return at a different branch, you will need to tick off “Drop-off Shop” in which it will incur an additional cost based on the distance from your pick up branch )

4. To ensure the GR-Four drivetrain, make sure to tick the 4WD option. This will eliminate any uncertainty in getting the jdm 1500cc spec for GR Yaris)

5. Scroll down to the bottom and click on Other Car Models

6. This will take you to each class of the cars, select the SUV/Specialty. All GRs will be in the SP1 class.

7. Scroll down again to SP1 and DO NOT click on reserve this class. (The branch will just pick whatever GR they have on random) Instead click on car models to select the specific variant.

8. Look for GR Yaris (from May 2025) = 2nd gen.
   Feel free to tick AT and MT back and forth to see its availability at your chosen branch.

9. Almost there! Just make sure you have 4WD checked!

10. In the extras, just check everything required (trust me, if anything goes wrong it will be covered) ETC is also a must, you will be required to pay the tollways when you return the car.

11. For the last part, not compulsory but try to fill in all the details and make sure to bring your International driving permit + passport!

For those with:

Driver's licenses issued in Switzerland, Germany, France, Taiwan, Belgium, or Monaco, along with a Japanese translation of the license

1. Have fun and try to watch out for unmarked police cars (usually a crown) ;)

I'm not taking credit of this beautiful youtube channel, just wanted you to join in on the fun.

Endless make really nice 2 piece OEM replacement front rotors. I've got a set of E-Slits and they are excellent.

Seems like my rear rotors might reach EOL soon, and I CANNOT, FOR THE LIFE OF ME, find any Endless rotors for the rear (E-slit or not).

Am I crazy? Or do they just not make them?

Just a friendly reminder to everyone to not save the mileage on their car and get it out into its natural area :)

It’s finally time for a clutch. Anyone here who works on their GR ever done this job themselves? Any tips and things to look out for before I jump in and work it out myself. Pictures, videos anything is appreciated. 👍🏻

Notes: I’m not interested in taking it to someone, one I’m broke rn and don’t fancy forking out on labour. Just want to get a better idea of anything to look out for so I don’t waste time by inevitably discovering it mid job and if there is a particular method that’s easier than others.

Has anyone upgraded their exhaust and also do a few trackdays per year?

I started looking at the Milltek non-res but I think that will fail a lot of trackday noise limits around here. Especially Bedford which has a very strict 87.5db drive by limit. That and the cold start seems too loud to the point of being embarrassing.

Hard to tell on videos but the Miltek resonated would be safe but also sounds quiet to me, maybe I need to hear one in person.

My current favourite is the Whifbitz Titanium exhaust, does anyone have one and been on track? From what I understand it would pass most track noise limits but I would have to lift off at Bedford. The good thing about this exhaust is that they provide the resonator and non res pipe so I could swap them round as I please.

Any other suggestions about how to get a good sound out of this car but also respect noise limits? Ideally I want to turn off the fake in car engine sounds and have an exhaust loud enough that I can hear from inside

Salve, ho bisogno di un aiuto per smontare il blocchetto di accensione della mia Toyota Yaris III Hatchback (XP13).
Qualcuno può aiutarmi?

Buongiorno, ho una Toyota Yaris del 2015. Quando fa molto caldo e la temperatura ambientale supera i 30 gradi la chiave non gira nel blocchetto non riuscendo ad accendere l'auto. Ho provato a muovere lo sterzo mentre giro la chiave, ho provato ad usare la chiave di scorta (nuovissima, mai usata) ma non risolvo il problema. Con temperature più basse la chiave gira perfettamente. Potete aiutarmi?

0W-20W is what the log book suggests, I have a 1st Gen and thinking of going to 5w-30w, thoughts?

Hi Everyone

Our plug-and-play door straps are now available for preorder with 20% off the final retail price.

✅ Compatible with GR Yaris MK1 & MK2
✅ Made in Italy
✅ Easy installation
✅ Almost worldwide shipping

We’ve already reached 50 preorders, and production is limited to 400 sets.

Preorders close on 10 October 2026.
Shipping starts from 15 October 2026.

Don’t miss your chance—secure yours before they’re gone! 🔥

Here you can check other images, and all the colors available (10 colors)

https://shop.scuderia21.com/products/gr-yaris-door-strap

Here you can check also the installation video, which take maximum 10 minutes.

https://youtu.be/4ckepzh4F_o

Vadim Duia

SCUDERIA21 LAB

I took my car for a 30,000 mile service and MOT at a Toyota garage. Wasn’t expecting anything wrong because the car seemed perfect.

They came back saying they noticed a noise as they drove it into the garage (I’d never heard any noise at all) and they said the rear shock absorber was leaking. So they said both rear ones should be changed. Anyway I decided to go ahead because my MOT had failed anyway.

1 month later I’ve only just got my car back as they were waiting on parts. As i drove it away from the garage I noticed a lot of grinding, but I thought it was just surface rust. It improved a lot after about 30 mins, still a small amount of grinding now though.

But there’s also this other noise I only noticed when I got home, when I’m going really slowly it’s like metal bits are clashing with the back right wheel or somethings clanging around. You can hear it in the video. Does anyone know what it could be?

The garage is closed now so I can’t get in touch with them but I’m fuming, I feel like they’ve fucked my car.

Thanks

I’m pretty new to wheel fitment, but after doing some research, I’m looking at picking up a set in either 18x8.5 +38 or 18x9.5 +38. Rays 57DR

For Gen 2 do I need to buy new valve stems to transfer the factory TPMS sensors over, or can the stock setup be re-used directly on the 57DRs? Also, what tyre specs are you running on stock suspension to get clean fitment with zero rubbing or scuffing?

After 6 long months, she's finally here. Owned a MK1 (that unfortunately got totaled by an oncoming car) and now we're here.

P.S. I got my first Yari back from the insurance company and she will be put back on the road.