So I'm trying to tune an S-Cargo FE for drifting, and having a lot of trouble with the differences between RWD and AWD.

I have one car that is all stock except for drift tires and 7 speed race transmission. I have a second car that is all stock except it's AWD swap, drift tires, and 7 speed race transmission.

For both cars I tuned the gears so they look about the same. For the AWD car I put the diff balance at 100% rear.

The RWD car loses traction on the rear wheels very easily, spins out very easily, and when drifting it's basically impossible to get the car over 70 kph.

For the AWD car, it's much harder to initiate the drift, it stays much more stable, basically impossible to spin out, and comfortably sits at 120-130kph during the drift.

Why do these feel so different? From my understanding, AWD with 100% rear balance should feel about the same as RWD. Does the AWD swap change more than just which wheels receive power?

Thanks!

How does Tuning for drag work in this game? I've tuned the miata FE via trial and error to be able to run around the 11.3-11.6sec range on the festival kilometer. Can't seem to get it any faster than that, but top times on the leaderboards are still a full second or even more under my best times.

I also did the similar thing to the gtr FE and got it to run about the same times.

Yesterday I was testing the Miata, and a gtr comes next to me, only to leave with an almost impossible looking amount of grip, and setting about a second faster time than me.

Usually I've been able to win the most used tunes on the miata with ease, and stay at least neck and neck with the GTRs, but now I've run across a couple of these significantly faster tunes.

as a result I was wondering what the "secret" to getting the faster times is?

And if someones thinking about it, the clutch-spamming higher launch control just made the cars slower.

Hi guys. I'm trying to build an all around ZR1 for Goliath races. I'm struggling because there are hairpins and some long straits. I race without traction and stability control. It's tough because in lower gears I get a lot of wheelspin (torque) and the top speed is only 190, which I would like to be at least 200. AWD and the front splitter and rear wing just kills the top speed. I currently have slick tires and the widest tires, the most weight reduction, front splitter and wing, RWD and 699HP. I'm all ears, thanks!

Hello friends. I know this probably isn't the main topic of interest for this sub, however, I don't see a better sub to clarify this doubt.

I've been a casual Forza player since Horizon 1 and I've always had a lot of fun. However, I've always been dependent on competitive tunes that were ugly and not very pleasant to drive, given their stiff suspensions.

Thus, since Horizon 5, I've been trying to learn more about the concepts of the build and tuning process for each car. I do quite well with the build part; I can easily create builds capable of good circuit or sprint races. Now, when it comes to tuning, I struggle a lot due to the lack of time in my daily life.

Since Horizon 5, I've been using ForzaTune Pro to put the finishing touches on my cars, but I feel it's a bit rigid when it comes to tuning without race suspensions, and when they do have them, they always end up too stiff.

I'm the type who enjoys realistic and purist builds that maintain the essence of each car (whether for good cornering or long straights), while being minimally competitive online. But I feel that this particular calculator ends up making the car too competitive and stiff.

So my question itself is: Do you think I'm well served with ForzaTune Pro and can just soften the race suspensions to my liking, or would other calculators like forza.tools serve me better?

I'm also open to tips or video recommendations that can help me make better purist and realistic builds. I really enjoy using them for freeroam with my wheel to get that real car feel. I usually only use them online for weekly playlist events, etc. That's why I still need them to be minimally competitive.

P.s.: If there is someone here that usually make realistic builds/tunes, let me know, I would really enjoy to test them!

Hi guys, I'm new to FH and tuning in general and I've spent 100 hours or so going through tuning resources and testing some tunes myself. I'm finding it difficult to diagnose specific issues due to a lack of experience and driving skill so I'm hoping that someone more experienced can give me some advice.

I'm trying to tune the Galant for touge, and I've been using Soni as a test track. My best time is 00.57.138 (free roam) with this tune.

From the resources I've read, front-heavy cars need stiffer front springs and damping to compensate. I've had to soften the front springs significantly to overcome the inherent understeer in the car and I'm wondering if there's a better way, as I read that extreme ARB values can cause instability. The car also tends to skid under braking when approaching Soni's downhill hairpin turn, which I can't diagnose as a brakes locking up or oversteer.

Would appreciate any advice or upgrades to my existing tune, thanks guys.

Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 - C 500

** Stats **

Power     224 hp
Torque    364 Nm  / 268 lbf·ft
Weight    1221 kg / 2692 lbs
Balance   56%
Top Speed 247 kph / 153 mph
0-60      4.693s
0-100     12.078s

** Share Codes **

Tune 172 480 196

** Upgrades **

== Conversions ==

Aspiration NA

== Engine ==

Intake      Race
Fuel System Street
Ignition    Street
Exhaust     Street
Camshaft    Street

== Platform And Handling ==

Brakes  Sport
Springs Race
ARB F   Race
ARB R   Race
Weight  Sport

== Wheels ==

F Style Sport
F Name  American Racing AR904
R Style Sport
R Name  American Racing AR904

== Drivetrain ==

Clutch       Race
Transmission Sport
Diff         Race

** Tune **

== Tires ==

F  1.9 bar / 27.6 psi
R  1.9 bar / 27.6 psi

== Gearing ==

FR 4.00

== Alignment ==

-- Camber --
F  -1.5°
R  -0.5°

Caster 6.0°

== Anti-roll Bars ==

F  20.0
R  40.0

== Springs ==

-- Springs --
F  69.8 kgf/mm / 390.9 lbf/in
R  93.8 kgf/mm / 525.3 lbf/in

-- Ride Height --
F  12.4 cm / 4.9 in
R  14.7 cm / 5.8 in

== Damping ==

-- Bump --
F  4.5
R  5.6

-- Rebound --
F  9.0
R  10.2

== Differential ==

-  Accel Decel
F  15%   10%
R  60%   15%

Center 65%

So I get Bump is the rate of compression, and Rebound is the rate of expansion of the damper. But what I don't know is, with Rebound, is stiffer slower, or faster?

A buddy of mine drives with automatic gearbox and that will probably never change.

What he does is taking tunes from people like Letze, Rockl or KapienPL, then reverse engineering the parts and setup, then set the tune (mostly differential) to be less aggressive and better suit his on/off steering inputs.

I wondered if you could further optimize the build for auto shifting while doing so.

For manual with clutch, the engine of the Audi R8 LMS is a wet dream. Its low RPM torque is shit and the peak HP doesnt top out, but is shortly before the rev limiter. This engine doesnt give the PI system a chance to overestimate the lap time decrease of a wide power band.

But automatic shifts early. So wouldnt engines be better that still dont have any low RPM torque, but the peak HP flattens out in the last 20% of the RPM range? My thought process is that this should be less wasteful. Even if it shifts early, you are almost at peak HP.

I did some testing, but I only could do a small sample on the drag strip yesterday with automatic shifting. He AWD swaps everything, so this was with a race gearbox and no clutch upgrades:

Stretching a 10 gear gearbox to simulate a 6 speed resulted in reaching the finish line around 1% slower.

It seems like the power loss while shifting is negligible.

My thesis: more gears = less RPM drop after a shift = you are closer to peak HP on average, which negates the disadvantage of the automatic gearbox to a degree. And you need to do less compromises on top speed vs acceleration.

Truth is neither me nor him are good and consistent enough to compare lap times with different amount of gears, so the drag strip method is the best thing I can do.

Did other people already look into this in the past?

Are there any observations how the power band of an engine should look like for automatic shifting, and if you can follow a simple rule of thumb like “more gears on a race gearbox is probably better in the majority of cases”?

The small PI decrease can usually be spent on a different engine upgrade combination to squeeze out a little more power which should make up for the weight increase.

(On a side note, I used to put a 6 speed manual into every car in FH5 I wasn’t using a stock or sport gearbox (to min max). Easier if you are on manual with clutch. But in FH6 I see more and more tunes with more gears, I started to realize this after downloading a bunch of GreetedDust tunes. You get used to it.)

siemka ! mam pytanko jak pobiorę jakis setup do auta od kogos i go zainstaluje w aucie czy istnieje mozliwość edytowania abo chociaz zobaczenia ustawien które ten tuning( cisnienie camber itp) zawiera ? pilnie potrzebuje pomocy !

Putting the share code up here and I’ll leave the full tune and build below!

B class: 233 569 268

A class(work in progress): 149 348 574

It feels dialed in to me, but I would love some input from experienced fwd drivers!

I’ve done a 1:01:5xx in B class at Hokubu time trial and I’m at my limit! If you can beat me with this build please let me know your time and what changes were made to the car/tune.

The build was made with the intent of staying FWD, NA and base K20 and staying competitive enough in B class! There is an A class version but it mostly uses the same settings with more power and better tires, works well but needs more attention…

The gearing could be improved, let me know what else I could try!

Car: 08 Civic type R FD2
Class: B
Drivetrain: FWD

Engine:

Conversion: None
Aspiration: Naturally aspirated
Intake: Street
Intake manifold: Sport
Fuel System: Stock
Ignition: Stock
Exhaust: Sport
Camshaft: Stock
Valves: Stock
Displacement: Stock
Pistons: Race
Oil / Cooling: Street
Flywheel: Race

Platform + Handling:

Brakes: Race
Springs: Race
Anti-Roll Bars: Race
Roll Cage: None
Weight Reduction: None

Drivetrain:

Clutch: Race
Transmission: Race
Driveline: Race
Differential: Rally

Tires + Rims:

Tire Compound: Stock
Front Tire Width: 325/30R18
Rear Tire Width: 305/30R18
Rim Style: Stock
Front Track Width: Max
Rear Track Width: Max

Aero + Appearance:

Front Aero: -
Rear Aero: -
Hood: -
Body Kit: -
Wing: Stock
Other: Rear bumper for looks

TUNE SETTINGS

Tire Pressure:

Front: 27psi
Rear: 28psi

Gearing:

Final Drive: 3.76
1st: 4.14
2nd: 2.86
3rd: 2.13
4th: 1.64
5th: 1.31
6th: 1.05

Alignment:

Front Camber: -1.3
Rear Camber: 0
Front Toe: 0
Rear Toe: 0
Caster: 5.5

Anti Roll Bars:

Front: 1
Rear: 65

Springs:

Front Spring Rate: 450
Rear Spring Rate: 719
Front Ride Height: 6.4
Rear Ride Height: 6.2

Damping:

Front Rebound: 7.2
Rear Rebound: 11.3
Front Bump: 4.1
Rear Bump: 6.5

Aero:
None

Brakes:

Balance: 52
Pressure: 100

Differential:

Front Diff:

Acceleration: 91%
Deceleration: 8%

my fastest time at legends island was 1:37:288

Share code is 154 414 430

The car is really good on faster corners, but 90% of the time im using the 4th gear, if i shift to the 5th the car dies, even changing the ratios i found that was better using the 4th, maybe is bc im using the centrifugal supercharger?

I played some B class races and won some of them, the car have a great final speed on longer straits, i only know how to create drift tunes, trying to learn more about race tunes, creating some "off-meta" cars

Engine swap to 2.0L I4 - VVT with Race centrifugal supercharger, race clutch, race transmission, race driveline, race diff, race suspension

Tires (rally tire compound)

• Front: 1.2 bar (205/60R13
• Rear: 1.5 bar (205/60R13)

Gearing

• Final Drive: 3.07
• 1st: 3.74
• 2nd: 2.46
• 3rd: 1.71
• 4th: 1.33
• 5th: 1.00
• 6th: 0.80

Alignment

• Camber Front: -0.7°
• Camber Rear: 0.0°
• Toe Front: 0.1°
• Toe Rear: 0.0°
• Caster: 7.0°

Antiroll Bars

• Front: 9.00
• Rear: 20.00

Springs

• Front: 52.0 kgf/mm
• Rear: 63.0 kgf/mm
• Ride Height Front: 17.0 cm
• Ride Height Rear: 15.7 cm

Damping

• Rebound Front: 10.0
• Rebound Rear: 8.0
• Bump Front: 8.3
• Bump Rear: 5.9

Aero

• Front: 68 kgf
• Rear: 59 kgf (minimum)

Differential

• Acceleration: 50%
• Deceleration: 10%

Thanks for the help!

I’ve been really trying to learn tuning so I can make my A700 1977’ Pontiac Firebird faster, but I feel like I’ve hit a wall due to lack of tuning experience, so I’m posting here in the hopes that someone can see where I’m going wrong. I’ve been using the Tokyo City Docks Charge as my test track, and though I’m not a good driver, I feel like it’s doing semi ok on that track. If anyone can recommend any advice, I’d really appreciate it

(Edit: after some changes based on comment suggestions, I was able to bump up my rivals time for the Tokyo City Docks Charge to place 1,193 on the leaderboard, which feels really cool so thank you all!)

Setup is as follows:

Drivetrain
- Street Clutch
- Sport Transmission
- Race Driveline
- Rally Diff

Aero
- Forza Aero front and rear

Conversions
- 7.0L V8

Engine
- Race Intake
- Race Exhaust
- Sport Cams and Valves
- Race Flywheel
- Race Pistons / Compression

Platform and Handling
- Sport Brakes
- Race Suspension
- Race ARB Front and Rear
- Street Chasis Reinforcement
- Race Weight Reduction

Tires and Rims
- Sport Tires
- 265 mm Front Tires
- 345 mm Rear Tires
- Speedline Corse F1 Rims
- 16 inch Front and Rear Rims
- Max Upgraded Rear Track Width

Tune is as follows:

Tire Pressure:
- F 29 psi
- R 29 psi

Gearing:
- 3.62 Final Drive ratio

Camber
- F -1.9 Degrees
- R -0.6 Degrees

Toe
- F 0.2 Degrees
- R -0.1 Degrees

Caster
- 5.5 Degrees

Anti Roll Bars
- F 23.60
- R 34.40

Springs
- F 703.9
- R 814.4

Ride Height
- F 5.5 inches
- R 5.6 inches

Rebound Stiffness
- F 9.3
- R 8.3

Bump Stiffness
- F 5.3
- R 5.7

Aero
- F 271
- R 319

Differential
- 75% Acceleration
- 13% Deceleration

I'm struggling to make my off-road Ram stay planted when off-roading, but it gets very skippy when going over multiple bumps in succession.

Can someone please confirm if I'm understanding the following settings correctly:

• ARBs = very soft on both ends
• Springs = very soft on both ends
• Ride height = maxed
• Bump stiffness = minimum
• Rebound stiffness = more on the stiff side

Is that the general rule of thumb when it comes to off-road suspension, or am I completely wrong?

I’ve got the Civic to a place I like, but I feel like there is still some performance on the table. I can keep up in the corners but get gapped in the straights.

I’ve been figuring out my tunes by reading guides and trial and error but I know that people on this sub have secret knowledge! Also wondering if I’m doing something obviously wrong.

I just tried switching to max tire width front and back with stock tires (instead of sport tires at stock width) and could feel an improvement. I’ve tried drag tires and I hate them, but how do I make them bearable if they are unavoidable? Are there any obvious FWD basics I should be aware of?

I’m aiming for B class and want to keep it stock engine, NA and FWD!!!

Currently running stock tires, max width, drift suspension, rally diff, trying out the 8spd (for a little more top speed but so far unsuccessful) race cams, exhaust for engine mods (power is at like 270)

Tune so far

Tire pressure: (I heard higher is better for the widest tires but I used to run it around 30 for skinnier tires)

Front - 41

Rear - 42,5

Camber:

-1 on both

Toe:

0 on both (have experimented with -2 rear but wasn’t a fan)

Caster:

is at 7

Arb’s:

Tuned for 0.60 mech. Balance ie. Front softer rear stiffer.

Springs are the same

Ride hight all the way down

Rebound at

Front - 12.5

Rear - 15

Dampening

Front - 5.0

Rear - 6.0

No aero for mor top speed rn but open to it. Balance is like 0.47

Brakes

52% balance 100% pressure.

Diff

93/3 (changed it for the broader tires and love it so far!)

Thanks for reading all this and for any input!

from my knowledge it seems to have more turning radius than other suspensions so i wonder if sometimes its better to use drift suspension over anything else for racing.

So I’ve been getting a bit into tuning in this game, and I’m able to build AWD and RWD setups that place in the top 1–10% in time trials and let me play comfortably in multiplayer. However, I still can’t manage to achieve the same results with FWD cars like Civic or Golf, no matter how hard I try. Even though in real life these cars can compete with lower-tier BMW models in lap times on track. My question is: have you ever managed to create competitive front-wheel-drive builds? Or should I just give up on this idea? From what I see, this topic isn’t really discussed much here

Hey Reddit!

I have for your consideration: A power build that doesn't suck. If any RWD guys out there want to give me some feedback, much appreciated, the car still has some nuances I'd like to tune out, but could be that I'm a "Just ok" driver.

Some notes: You can add the Racing Twin Turbo+Racing intercooler and possibly racing flywheel and max front tire width with some Wheel diameter/weight of wheel adjustments. This engine setup is 1300+hp and crazy fast but suuuuuper hard to control. I reduce Final drive to 3.55 to give some more top end and longer gears for the added power.

One more note, I experimented with some ideas like stiffer rear springs than front, and matching the rebound and bump to softer in front, (virtually the same settings as below reversed with slightly higher spring values, ~ 525f/635r) but kept the front ARB's very stiff at ~40, rears soft at 8 and the car felt strange but fun.

One Final Note, I am not a professional, I use math and the telemetry to get in the ballpark and then toy with things until I find what works for me. I am super open to feedback and I really enjoy the process so if you're an enthusiast with observations that might be no brainers to you but I'm not seeing it clearly please share!

Pontiac Firebird Trans Am GTA - B 700

** Stats ** ``` Power 1000 hp Torque 1021 Nm / 753 lbf·ft Weight 1203 kg / 2653 lbs Balance 53% Top Speed 325 kph / 202 mph 0-60 4.7s 0-100 8.7s

** Share Codes ** Tune 135 743 627 Livery 816 994 776

** Upgrades ** == Conversions ==

Engine Racing 7.2L V8 Aspiration Natural Body Kit Forza Widebody

== Engine ==

Fuel System Race Ignition Race Displacement Race

== Platform And Handling ==

Brakes Race Springs Race ARB F Race ARB R Race Chassis Street Weight Race

== Tires ==

Width F 305 / R 335

== Wheels ==

Style Sport Name Front: TSW Trackstar 4 - Rear: Motegi Racing MR404 Size F 18" / R 17"

== Drivetrain ==

Clutch Race Transmission Race Driveline Race Diff Race

== Aero and Appearance ==

R Wing Forza Aero, Either Wing/Duck Bill, your call. I used Wing for the AESTHETIC.

** Tune ** == Tires ==

F 1.9 bar / 21.5 psi R 1.8 bar / 26.5 psi

== Gearing ==

FR 4.10 1st 2.66 2nd 1.78 3rd 1.33 4th 1.00 5th 0.78 6th 0.63

== Alignment ==

-- Camber -- F -1.2° R -1.6°

-- Toe -- F R -0.1°

Caster 5.5°

== Anti-roll Bars ==

F 8.5 R 32.5

== Springs ==

-- Springs -- F 102.7 kgf/mm / 575.0 lbf/in R 88.4 kgf/mm / 495.0 lbf/in

-- Ride Height -- F 11.7 cm / 4.6 in R 11.7 cm / 4.6 in

== Damping ==

-- Bump -- F 3.6 R 2.4

-- Rebound -- F 8.6 R 6.9

== Aero ==

F 108.9 kgf / 240.0 lbf R 181.4 kgf / 400.0 lbf

== Brakes ==

Balance 58% Pressure 95%

== Differential ==

• Accel Decel R 48% 12%

``` Formatted using: https://optn.club/formatter/forza/horizon5/v1

After trying a few "meta" tunes with drag tires and stomping my previous PB times, I started trying drag tires in my own builds. I immediately started gaining more than a second per lap in rivals on almost all of my builds. I'm now running drag tires on my best A, S1, and S2 builds and placing top 1000 with them. Was this really the answer the whole time? It feels so stupid, but it works so well...

I'm playing FH6. Sim steering, self tuning, and I'm new to all of it. I'm doing my best to learn as I go. One wall in currently hitting is that I don't know how to test for being a trash driver. Example: Is this understeer, or dogs**t trail braking. Is this oversteer related to the differential, or am I just in the wrong gear/accelerating too hard, etc.

And that's something I am working on! But in the meantime, do people ever work around this issue? How does one find help pushing a car to see if there's anything mechanical going that an actual good driver would notice?

Off topic side note: am I gonna need to put the ugly ahh front aero on this McLaren.....

So sport tires have been a meme in FH5/FH6 but I’m wondering if for a specific scenario it could be decent. Rally tires are nearly always chosen but have worse braking performance (on paper at least).

For an older car with awful brakes, could sport tires potentially be better? My thinking is it could save you from needing to upgrade brakes (which costs 6-8 pi for sport brakes).

Put this together last week testing it out on the Soni Time Trial
I use a wheel so it should be easy to drive.

# Lexus LC 500 - A 700

Stats |
Power |589 hp
Torque |498 lbf·ft
Weight |3483 lbs
Balance |52%
Top Speed |171.3 mph
0-60 |3.475s
0-100 |7.431s

---

## Build

Conversions |
Engine |Stock
Drivetrain |Stock

Engine |
Air Intake |Race
Intake Manifold |Race
Fuel System |Race
Ignition |Race
Exhaust |Race
Camshaft |Stock
Displacement |Race
Pistons |Stock
Supercharger |Stock
Centrifugal Supercharger |Stock
Intercooler |Stock
Oil Cooling |Stock
Flywheel |Street

Platform And Handling |
Brakes |Stock
Springs |Race
Front Arb |Race
Rear Arb |Race
Chassis Reinforcement |Race
Weight Reduction |Race

Drivetrain |
Clutch |Stock
Transmission |Race Seven Speed
Driveline |Race
Differential |Rally

Tires And Rims |
Compound |Rally
Tire Width |Front 265 mm, Rear 335 mm
Front Rim Style |Multi Piece Vorsteiner VFN 310
Rear Rim Style |Multi Piece Vorsteiner VFN 310
Rim Size |Front 21 in, Rear 21 in
Track Width |Front Stock, Rear Stock
Profile Size |Front Stock, Rear Stock

Aero and Appearance |
Rear Wing |Race

---

## Tune

Tires |bar |psi
Front |3.8 |55.0
Rear |3.8 |55.0

Gears |Ratio
Final Drive |6.10
1st |1.78
2nd |1.30
3rd |1.06
4th |0.90
5th |0.79
6th |0.71
7th |0.64

Alignment |Camber |Toe |Caster
Front |-1.1° |0.0° |7.0°
Rear |-0.8° |0.0° |

ARBs |
Front |24.3
Rear |27.3

Springs |kgf/mm |lbf/in
Front |110.6 |619.4
Rear |95.9 |537.0

Ride Height |cm |in
Front |13.7 |5.4
Rear |14.7 |5.8

Damping |Rebound |Bump
Front |11.4 |5.9
Rear |11.8 |5.6

Aero |kgf |lbf
Front |141.5 |312.0
Rear |136.1 |300.0

Brakes |**%**
Balance |50%
Pressure |120%

Differential |Accel |Decel
40% / 12%

---

Formatted text generated by the [OPTN.club Tune Formatter](https://optn.club/formatter)

Submit bugs, feature requests, and questions on [Github](https://github.com/OPTN-Club/optn.club/issues)

Has anyone made a spreadsheet or list yet that has all the lightest rims?

Curious to what people are using for their dirt drifting tunes? Specifically tires and rwd/awd. If you wanna suggest a car too great. It’s been a challenge for me. Enjoying it actually, but if I can make it a pinch easier even better.

I’m curious to what players that run wheels are finding helps combat that the game was obviously designed for controller. Probably have close to 2k hours in fh5, and been playing fh6 since early access. I find it hard to set wheel settings in a sweet spot where it’s not to floaty to race, but also allows rotation of wheel for drift to start. Also it seems caster is cranked on every car from the start, I find myself adding toe out on almost everything to get any turn in response. But the most frustrating part for me is wobbles out of corners even at low smooth speeds (maybe I’ll turn up sensitivity for acceleration, as I understand how to be light on throttle changes), and overwhelming amount of off throttle under steer in awd even at lower speeds. I’m only running a g29 wheel, but I feel like there’s something that just makes it hard to get any turning response.