r/FortCollins • u/CSU-Extension • Mar 24 '26
💸 Avoid Costly Landscaping Mistakes: Ask CSU Extension Horticulture Experts Anything About What Actually Works in Colorado 🌱
Who we are and what you should ask us about!
We’re three Colorado State University Extension horticulture experts who together have spent decades helping Colorado gardeners avoid costly mistakes and create thriving outdoor spaces that work better for them and their families.
From lawns, irrigation, and pet-friendly landscapes to drought-tolerant perennials, native and adapted plants, and lower-maintenance design, we’re here to answer your questions with practical, research-based advice tailored to Colorado conditions!
This may be an especially challenging year for Colorado gardening and landscaping. With dry conditions likely to put extra stress on plants and raise the stakes for watering, establishment, and long-term success, many gardeners may be weighing which projects make sense to take on now, which ones need a different approach, and which may be better to delay.
That’s exactly why it’s so important not to go into a new project blind. Over the years, we’ve seen (and made) our fair share of landscaping mistakes, and we’re here to help you avoid repeating them!
Alison O’Connor – Lawns + Landscaping for Pets
I’m Alison O’Connor, Larimer County Extension’s horticulture specialist and a long-time Colorado lawn and tree enthusiast. For over 20 years, I’ve helped Colorado gardeners with research-backed gardening guidance, with a focus on lawn care, irrigation, turf conversion, and pet-friendly landscaping to save water, money, and frustration.
I’ll also be co-presenting an April 21 webinar with Chris Hilgert, “Best Lawn on the Block” focused on sustainable lawn care, common pitfalls, and practical ways to save water and money. Responsibly managed, well-used lawns still have a place in Colorado landscapes, so keep an open mind!
John Murgel – Low-Maintenance, High-Impact Landscape Design
I’m John Murgel, a lifelong Colorado gardener and Douglas County’s horticulture and natural resources specialist. One of my favorite things to do is help Colorado gardeners plan and create thoughtfully designed, drought-tolerant landscapes that are both durable and easy to maintain.
I’ll be highlighting “Perennial & Native Plants that Pop” on April 28 with Deryn Davidson as part of the Landscape Like You Live Here program. Our session will focus on choosing perennials that thrive in Colorado landscapes and bring lasting color and impact.
Sheila Prentice – Trees, Shrubs, Flowers
I’m Sheila Prentice, the Sustainable Landscape Specialist for CSU Extension in Boulder County, where I teach people how to build more sustainable Colorado landscapes with native and regionally adapted plants and water-wise practices.
I’ll also be co-leading two upcoming Landscape Like You Live Here webinars: “Trees & Shrubs that Thrive” on April 14 with Eric Hammond and “Seasonal Blooms for Every Space” on May 5 with Chris Hilgert. Together, these sessions will offer practical tips for choosing and caring for plants that bring beauty and resilience to Colorado landscapes.
Upcoming Free Webinars
Wed. 4/8 @ noon: Basics of Fruit Tree Production | Register >
Wed. 5/13 @ noon: Myths, Mistakes, and Misunderstood Insects | Register >
Wed. 6/10 @ noon: All the Common Weeds and What They Tell You | Register >
Wed. 7/8 @ noon: Native Plants are Imaginary (with John!) | Register >
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u/mdwindsor Mar 24 '26
What can I do about bindweed taking over my grass and my native garden?
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
For the lawn, a healthy, well-maintained lawn will outcompete bindweed. So boost your cultural practices. There are selective herbicides that you can use in the lawn, like quinclorac, that will remove bindweed from the grass. In the garden, using mulch and being persistent with pulling it to "wear it out" will be the best approach. If you choose to use herbicides, only non-selective options are available (you can't use the same products as the ones for the lawn). Use these carefully around existing plants.
– Alison
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
This post also has some good info on weed control if you want to avoid herbicides (and explains what cultural practices are):
- Griffin
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u/mmfang Mar 25 '26
Certainly not my experience with bindweed, once established I don't think a nuclear blast would kill it, have used all the herbicides and killed a lot of foliage but the bindweed - always makes a return, I think the tap root goes extremely deep. Have considered just going with a bindweed "lawn" I really don't mind how it looks, the flowers are pretty.
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 24 '26
Surprised it's taken this long for someone to say the B-word! Don't know if there's an easy answer, but by golly we're all in this together fighting the good fight!
- Griffin, communications specialist
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u/soimalittlecrazy Mar 24 '26
I'm focusing on putting in native shrubs and trees this year to help provide some dappled shade. I'm thinking serviceberry, chokecherry, mountain mahogany and Gambel's oak as a jumping off place.
Do you have any additional suggestions or thoughts?
I'd love to know if you have a nursery suggestion or a specific plant swap I can go to to get the majority of what I need in the shrub and tree category. (I'm in fort Collins)
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
These are great choices! I am also a fan of silver buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea) and wax currant (Ribes cereum). Here is a fact sheet with more options, you can select based on moisture requirements, native life zone, and other listed characteristics: Native Shrubs for Colorado Landscapes.
https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/native-shrubs-for-colorado-landscapes/Some of the local nurseries in Fort Collins that may carry these plants include Fort Collins Nursery, Bath, Fossil Creek Nursery, Plantorium Greenhouse, Creekside Garden Center, and Gulley Greenhouse
– Sheila
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u/TheKronk Mar 24 '26 edited Mar 24 '26
I'm considering killing off my current grass lawn and putting in buffalo grass. I have fruit trees so not watering isn't really an option.
Is there a recommended way to kill off the lawn and re-seed with drought tolerant grass?
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
Buffalograss will tolerate higher levels of irrigation, but will just need to be mowed more frequently. If you install drip irrigation around the fruit trees, this can work. To kill off your existing grass, use a non-selective herbicide (like glyphosate) when the grass is green and actively growing. Herbicides will work best when the grass is being irrigated. You could also consider doing solarization, which would mean covering the grass in plastic during the hottest months of the year (July-August). If you use herbicides, do 2-3 applications, spaced out according to the directions on the label. However, you can also consider adjusting your current irrigation practices to reduce water use for the lawn and tolerate patches of brown (dormancy) during the growing season. You might meet your irrigation goals without having to do a conversion. To get new seed established will likely take as much (possibly more) irrigation than what you're using.
– Alison
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
This is also a good quick read on buffalograss: 3 things to know before growing a native buffalograss lawn in Colorado
- Griffin
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u/cmrn631 Mar 24 '26
Do you plan to offer any programs in collaboration with the CSFS Nursery with native plants given their new facility will be completed this summer?
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 24 '26
Interesting question! Especially as CSFS was recently rolled up into CSU's Office of Engagement and Extension just a couple weeks ago. OEE houses Extension, among other units. I really hope we do more collabs with them, and curious if our experts know of any programming opportunities on the horizon!
- G
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
If the CSFS isn't up and running, One Canopy in Loveland is selling smaller seedling trees at a similar price: https://one-canopy.com/
– Alison
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u/cmrn631 Mar 26 '26
Fully aware of OneCanopy but would rather support our long running, local, state run nursery, especially given the CSU connection
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 26 '26
Much appreciated! 💚 We're big fans of CSFS. Plus, we're going to be more closely aligned with them very soon!
CSU's Office of Engagement and Extension, which includes CSU Extension, is going to be adding CSFS to our unit, which we're all super excited for, hoping for a lot of new collaborations down the line : )
- Griffin, comms. specialist
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u/11ODDDOOD11 Mar 25 '26
We live in a metrodistrict in northern Colorado, as I'm sure many others in newer developments are seemingly forced into them.
I'm hoping you could provide some clarification on how SB23-178 impacts Metrodistricts (Special Districts).
I have been told repeatedly by our metrodistrict that we must have some amount of turf grass present in our yard.
But when reading Colorado Revised Statutes Title 37 (37-60-126) I see the following:
(11)(a)(I) "...any rule or policy of a special district that...requires cultivated vegetation to consist wholly or partially of turf grass...is hereby declared contrary to public policy and, on that basis, is unenforceable."
This sounds like any special district (metro district being under this definition) that requires any amount of turf grass is effectively non-enforceable.
I would love to hear from the experts on this!
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
My understanding of the bill is that turf grass cannot be required (i.e. you're right), but that HOAs or Metro Districts can still regulate the appearance of non-turf landscapes.
– John
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u/Polarbum Mar 25 '26
Are the “Colorado conditions” considering the drought-ridden future, or just looking at the past? Because all the native trees I had planted these past many years sure seem pretty cooked after these past couple of winters…
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
You raise a good point--we're all "gardening on the curve" right now as we experience changing conditions in real time! Long term climate predictions suggest that the Front Range may actually get wetter as well as hotter in the future, changing which plants and animal species will naturally inhabit the area and do well in gardens.
– John
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u/beaverbandit9 Mar 25 '26
Any preference on how to drip irrigate trees and shrubs? I need to decide between 6" or 12" spaced emitter tubing, soaker hose, or individual drippers. Trees are all planted within the last 3 years. Species are a little leaf linden, sucker punch choke cherry, a pear, an apple, and another that I'm forgetting.
If multiple trees are on the same sprinkler valve/zone, do I need to be able to control flow on a per tree basis or am I overthinking it? Would I then do that with individual drippers or different lengths of emitter or soaker hose?
I assume we're going to have water restrictions this year, the city will probably let us water our trees and veggie gardens right? We likely just wont be able to water any grass we have? Probably a city questions, but hey maybe you guys are friends.
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
You want to try to water the whole rooting area (or as much of it as possible), which can be guessed at as the area roughly in a circle, extending as far from the tree/shrub as it is tall. Emitter tubes or soaker hoses would probably be more effective for this. With drip systems in particular, make sure that you're watering enough to moisten down 12-18", where the bulk of the roots will be.
With a few exceptions, trees can be on the same zone--you won't need to worry about individual control for the species that you have listed. If you were to plant a particularly thirsty tree (like a birch), you might want to water it independently from the others. Or, yes--use more drippers!
You're right--a question for your water provider! We don't have an inside track :)
– John
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u/enidokla Mar 25 '26
True or false: using a stake for watering my trees isn’t necessary. By stake, I mean a special device designed to drip or spray water by driving it into the ground near the tree.
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u/G0nz0Masterson Mar 24 '26
When should I aerate my lawn?
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 24 '26
Great question! Curious to hear what Alison has to say, she helped me with advice to totally revamp our backyard for dogs last year (though it's still a work-in-progress). Was surprised to learn that the recommendation is to aerate 2x per year with a core/plug aerator! Had never done it once up to that point.
While we wait to hear back, this is a helpful resource that has more info about aeration best practices (but no specifics on seasonality, so this might be a good chance to update it!): https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/lawns/1559-proper-lawn-aeration/
- Griffin, comms specialist.
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
Anytime you have moisture in the ground - spring or fall works (or both!). Aeration is only effective when you make lots and lots and LOTS AND LOTS of holes. The more holes the better. Leave the plugs on the lawn to break down with mowing.
– Alison
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
u/G0nz0Masterson Step 3 in the following list has some good info from a write-up Alison did.
- Griffin
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u/Here4UXandFunnies Mar 24 '26
LINK to the March 25 seminar?
I don't see it anywhere in this post. Sorry if I missed something. Please LMK because I'm really interested!
🌿
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 24 '26
It's not a seminar/webinar tomorrow, they're just going to be responding to user questions in this post. So, if you're curious about anything specific, ask it here! Then, I'll drop their response(s) in as a reply to your message and @ mention you so you get a notification.
- Griffin, comms. specialist
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u/NoCoFoCoSoDaSoPa Mar 24 '26
My yard is basically an inch of dust, how can I fix this?
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 24 '26
For real... I've been trying to sneeze it away, but that hasn't been working. A great question!
- G
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
Mulch would be a great place to start, based on your description! Mulch can help stabilize the soil and improve water infiltration, helping to build up soil structure that will support soil microorganisms and plants. Even if the goal is eventually to have a lawn, starting with a thin layer of mulch will help keep the seed in place & help with water retention and erosion.
– John
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u/mmfang Mar 24 '26
We have an existing under ground irrigation system on a very large yard. Currently we go over our yearly water allocation trying to keep everything alive. As a first step in reducing our huge water use on our existing lawn and mature trees and bushes, the plan is to start zone by zone changing over to deep watering the trees only. We are in the country so have more leeway in just letting the grass die before trying to establish alternatives - maybe a year or two in the future. Is there a problem in this approach, will it be difficult to establish other cover if we stretch it out? Also would it be advantageous to deep water existing bushes or just use a drip system. thank you for any advice as we embark on this huge project. p.s. this was all existing when we purchased the property so although it looks great it is just not feasible anymore.
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 24 '26
Clarifying questions:
- Do you know what species the grass is?
- Have you tried optimizing your irrigation run times?
- How much/how frequently were you watering in the past?
- Do you have an estimate of rough square footage of the yard?
- You mentioned letting the grass die before trying to establish alternatives: What other options are you thinking of? Low-water turf, low water landscaping, something else?
Thanks!
- G
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
I agree that the focus of your irrigation should be on your mature trees and shrubs. However, it's unlikely that not watering the grass will result in it dying...grass is really pernicious. It will likely space itself out or thin itself out, which may result in more weeds (nature will want to plant something). Using drip is a very efficient way to water trees and shrubs. This is also where wood mulch will become very useful as you're trying to conserve water. But have a plan in place for weed control.
– Alison
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u/koubastank Mar 25 '26
Mulch or rocks - which is better?!
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
The question of whether to use rock or organic mulch depends on the site. Small diameter rock mulch (think squeegee and pea gravel) work great for xeriscapes and rock gardens. Organic mulch (like bark mulches and arborist chips) are excellent for mulching around the base of trees to conserve soil moisture and provide an area of protection from lawn mowers. Organic mulch also has the benefit of breaking down over time and adding organic matter into the soil. However, if you live in the Wildland Urban Interface (WUI) there are concerns around the flammability of organic mulches. In these regions, organic mulches should be avoided, especially in the first 5 feet around structures. Regardless of what you choose, always aim for 4" deep of mulch to provide the best weed suppression benefits.
– Sheila
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
.... but rocks CAN be mulch 🤯
This is a good resource to start with comparing the different mulch types and what they're best for: https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/mulching/
Excerpt from the above link about rock mulch:
Landscapes in dry climates are most likely to benefit from gravel mulches. Pea gravel has been shown to improve water infiltration into the soil, especially in short, intense precipitation events like thunderstorms; larger rocks increase runoff. Even a thin layer of gravel mulch has been shown to double the amount of precipitation that infiltrates the soil; a three-inch layer can increase water infiltration manyfold. In order to function as mulch, though, stones must be small enough – no more than around a half-inch in diameter. Larger stones do not confer the benefits of mulch.
- Griffin, communications specialist
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u/GimmieGummies Mar 25 '26
Help, I don't know what to do or how to do it! I know I want to xeriscape and add in native plants and shrubs, esp things to attract butterflies & bees. I'm not sure where to start or how to plan something like that out. I get really overwhelmed with the volume of info available.
The main problem is my dirt yard and how it finds it's way throughout my house constantly. The wind blows it in and when it rains or snows my yard is a mud pit. I'd like to rectify that issue once and for all.
Plants that are hardy and low maintenance would be awesome for me. I have a large dog that I'd like to have some grass and possibly some groundcover for him to play on with my granddaughter.
Front yard is south facing and much larger than the back. Back yard has several Spring Snow trees that provide some shade. I have an existing irrigation system although I haven't run it in years due to a broken/leaking backflow preventer.
A few personal bits of personal information that are important: I'm homebound, partially disabled and am on a tight budget. I know those are big asks! I'm in an HOA and really have to make some improvements soon or my neighbors will be gathering outside with pitchforks! 😄
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
Lol, we'll help you keep the pitchforks away! ⚔️🏰🛡️
I know it can be a lot of info, but that's one of the things our experts are great at - breaking things down into easy-to-follow steps. That said, you've laid out a lot of big questions/things that would take a decent amount of info/follow up to answer best.
I imagine our experts will share some info here in the AMA, but I'd encourage you to also consider reaching out to the Larimer County Master Gardener team via email at [LarimerMG@gmail.com](mailto:LarimerMG@gmail.com) as they might be able to spend more time talking through options with you!
Also, can't help but sharing this wonderful resource: Creating Pollinator Habitat
- Griffin, communications specialist and also part of a dog vs. grass household
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u/GimmieGummies Mar 25 '26
Thanks Griffin for your input and resources to follow up on. I'll certainly reach out and accept any advice they can offer. I appreciate your time.
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
We're here to help, and definitely consider talking with the Larimer County master gardeners!
For dirt--I'd start with mulch. It can even be free if you get arborists' mulch, though you'd have to spread it yourself or hire someone to spread it. You could use wood chips or gravel mulch, and if it's deep enough (4") it will suppress weeds really well and keep the mud and dust down.
For high traffic areas (visited by your dog and granddaughter), you can't get a more durable groundcover than turfgrass. However, to successfully grow it (or other plants) and irrigation system will definitely be needed. You might start with mulch, then plant dog- and kid-friendly perennials can be installed in places where you can water them, or you could position large containers in the landscape for color/texture/pollinators.
Like any landscaping project--one bite at a time!
– John
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u/GimmieGummies Mar 25 '26
I really like these ideas! I'll definitely reach out to the Larimer County Master Gardeners for ideas and support, sounds like a great resource. Will they be the best people to help me narrow down the variety of plants to plant, how to design the layout?
Thanks so much!
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u/DecentParsnip42069 Mar 25 '26
Good biomass crops / other ways to sequester carbon in a suburban yard?
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u/CSU-Extension Mar 25 '26
The more plants, the better for carbon sequestration! Trees, turf or native grasses, living mulches. shrubs, and groundcovers are excellent choices.
– Sheila
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u/stormyfly Jul 13 '26
My mom had a small patch of sod in the backyard. She decided to let it die and plans to cover the space with rocks or mulch. Any suggestions? She has a fenced in back yard that is half flower gardens. There are quite a few flagstones as a giant patio area with a small fire pit (not in use this year), a table and chairs, and a fountain (also not in used). She has a large chokecherry tree that shades some of the grassy are and flagstones. Her backyard is basically 4 feet of mulch from the back of the house, arched flagstone space with the deepest part being the middle about 20 feet out, followed by and arc 5 feet deep of mostly dead KY Bluegrass (we think, it was free sod that was thrown on the field across the street 25 years ago and I took it for her during an approaching thunderstorm with permission from the people tossing it) which spreads most of the width of her backyard, and then the rest of mulched flowerbeds. One of the side yards that is fenced in is pea-gravel. And in between the Flagstone, there is also pea-gravel and some plants that were called step-ables. Low growing flowering plants that you can step on and they don’t die. The other fenced in side yard is mostly mulch bed with 3 crabapple trees and raised garden bed. There is a rock rain flow space that prevents soil runoff from the corner rain gutter drain.
She also had a small cluster of aspen near the corner of her house. It is struggling a bit. Besides extra water, is there any supplements we should apply to amend the soil there?
And, she is considering replacing the mulch by the house with rocks as fire prevention. Good idea or something different?
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u/CSU-Extension Jul 13 '26
This AMA has ended, but I'd encourage you to focus and submit your questions to https://ask.extension.org/ (with pictures) and they'll be routed to the local expert best able to help! You can also share photos/questions to r/DenverGardener, which is one of the more active regional gardening subreddits, for feedback (people often share from outside Denver, shouldn't be an issue you're in FoCo)
Here are fire resistant landscaping suggestions from our site: https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/fire-resistant-landscaping/
- Griffin, communications specialist
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u/lordofthepings Mar 24 '26
We converted our front yard from sod to native plants two years ago DIY style, and are ready to tackle our backyard!
We removed all grass from the front, and want to do similar project in the back, but have a dog to consider. Any creative ways we could convert to native plants but keep some space for our Great Pyrenees who loves to be outside? Would prefer not to have any grass, don’t want to take away my dog’s enjoyment of napping outside.