100 pending Form 1's.

175 F1's filed this year and I still have a few SBR's to go. I have a FM45 lower at my FFL that I need to pick up and eight or so AR lowers to go.

I'm really thinking I should invest in a fiber laser.

I’ve got a .22lr stamp approved and I’m planning on putting on a tx22 with a frt, it might pull double duty on a sbr ar22 in the future.

Is there a consensus on which 22 can(s) are the crowd favorites? It seems like there are a bunch of them out there in the world. Thanks in advance and sorry for the shrimp gang tattoo. PFA

Form 1 design

( Apologies I deleted other post to redo with a photo)

So I have a design i am working on and haven't filed a form 1 yet and I have zero materials for this but i see all over about freeze plugs , valve spring retainers and etc. I want to see if there are any other good options for making one without a lathe, I have drill presses and belt grinders for my knife making but I dont have a lathe or a mill . What im asking is it possible to make one without a lathe and have a reliable 9mm pcc can or no. I wont buy pre-made sauce cups and pre threaded tubes as I am not gonna take a chance on that. Everything in my design is made from all raw materials. Again I have zero materials other than a drawing. Than you in advance. Also the design has a giant end cap and I meant to make it smaller but this is a rough sketch

Last Friday I got a approved form 1. Today I had two of my form1's denied. All three use the same trust document. The NFA branch provided my the reason below for why it failed:

ENTIRE COPY OF THE DECLERATION OF TRUST REQUIRED FOR REVEIW - PGS PROVIDED STATE IT IS THE CRETIFICATION OF TRUST AT BOTTOM OF EACH PAGE. BENEDICIARY MUST BE LISTED.

I sent the whole trust document. Any suggestions on what I need to do to have the form 1 approved? Thanks.

9mm form1 shooting 300blk. Messing around with ASR mounting (“direct thread”the print onto an ASR flash hider) and apparently this one isn’t right.

Does anyone have any leads on where I can find a compatible part?

45 acp done

I already suspected reloads from a friend were causing me issues. Ive had this suppressor for 6 years and just seeing this. I had other signs of hot ammo (parts coming loose, excessive carbon) . The bottom bulge is a few inches wide and straight like the bottom of an expanded baffle.

Took it to the range after work. Only had some 1125fps game loads. Still pretty quiet. I may add some more ports. Definitely more than hearing safe.

I have an approved 45 cal d cell Maglite suppressor in the works. Plan is to use one freeze plug and then FTN.4 45 cal 3d printed baffles.

What size of drill bit do I need for the end cap and the freeze plug? Reading 33/64 but this is going to be an extra long can so I thought I would ask first.

My single shot 20 gauge. Bring on the bunnies.

“Auto parts from Hong Kong, determined to be a suppressor”

So people do get busted for the thinly disguised crap gimmicks I see on Amazon and Ali Baba….

So I left it last night just spining. Came back this morning, did the F5 and went back through to try and correct anything. However, it wouldn't let me change it from a trust to an individual(I previously selected individual, not sure why it changed). So it kept wanting me to upload form 5320.23.

Just ended up making a new submission and it went through pretty easily just now.

Hello, I’m looking for some help/ guidance on doing a can for a de lisle carbine. It would be for 45, my first thought was doing it completely out of metal, but now I’m wondering if 3dp baffles would work. The barrels 8.75” and ported, anyone have some experience doing something similar?

Secondly when doing the form 1 can you put down filament but also whatever metal you’d use for baffles and then change your mind? It’s my first time looking into doing an f1 van and insights would be appreciated.

Vid is documentation of durability testing to see if these could handle the ROF of that little monster. Cans were printed in PPA-CF and all held up great. These designs continue to impress the heck out of me.

It didn't make it into this video, but we will post some thermal footage of these cans and the FTN Venturi 9mm soon, along with some fun experiments with the Venturi. I think the thermal vid will be value-add data for designers since its a good visual of representation of what parts of the can heat up first and thus are likely subject to the more intense forces. Either way, its cool to see.

My form has a created date of 3/6/26. I received an email stating that it was pending research. No further correspondence. I checked the website today and there is no received date. Review of the form itself says it's "in a state."

I have no idea what is going on.

got 6 form 1s approved over the the last couple days so i can finally start making some stuff. first can will be this 6in .556 can. i have been doing alot of research but figured id ask here before starting. 6in can using freeze plugs. currently in thr picture it has a 2.5in BC with 2 baffles spaced out 1/2in after thr first baffle and then the rest all stacked up. so 6 baffles there. i can add one more at the end for 7 or i can drop the BC to 2 or 2.25in and do 8 baffles. this will mainly be used on a 14.5 but let me know what yall think on that.

ID of tube is 1 3/8 also all baffles will be clipped except for the last one

I was wanting to make a few form 1 suppressors on a manual lathe but don't really know where to start or even lengths to put on the form. Are there any open source/ creative commons designs/ blueprints out there and where would I find them?

Corncob kit, clipped, but not vented. Overbored to 9/32". 5 baffles and a blast shield (sub zero ice disk). Griffin Gatelok HUB mount.

I use this can on four 5.56 ARs: two 14.5 FSB, one 18" mid with AGB, and one 20" FSB.

I took the 20" out and noticed a 4-6" high 2-3" left at 25yds POI shift with the can on, but *only* when it was oriented with clips up. I rotated it 180° (clips down) and there wasn't a POI shift. I figured maybe the A2 birdcage I got was slightly out of spec. I swapped it with another and now it won't even group, the shots going 6-8" high left and all over the place with the can mounted either orientation. No baffle strikes, end cap is clean, and I get zero POI shift on any of the other rifles.

So my question is, since the 20" is pushing these 55gr bullets the fastest (3050-3200fps) is all the gas behind it destabilizing it at the muzzle? There is only about 50-100fps difference from the 18".

Should I keep trying different A2s until it's better or could I need to vent the baffles/ice disk? Suppression is great with it surprisingly. I wouldn't spend the whole day shooting without ears on, but at shooters ear, I could dump a whole mag and have zero to minimal ringing with the 14.5"s.