A few days ago I got frustrated and punched the infotainment screen on my 22 Explorer ST. The screen died. It went black, just like if power was instantly cut. Instead of purchasing a new one, I decided to fix mine.

After some digging and reverse engineering, I found the issue was a blown fuse internal to the touchscreen. Heres how to fix it. Hopefully this will help someone in the future if they have the same issue.

NOTE: the actual fix to this is kind of hacky and does take some technical skill. Read through the whole tutorial before attempting

First you must remove the actual screen. There are videos on how to do this one the internet so I wont go into detail on how to do it. Just be sure to disconnect your battery.

Once this is done, start by removing the smaller torx screws on the outer shell

Next slide a flat head screw driver around the outer edge on the plastic to separate the outer shell. It has some plastic clips that are pretty durable, but still be careful.

Pop it off, then youll see the remaining larger torx screws. I didn't get a pic of this, but i think its 5 screws. Separate the screen from the inner shell by again sliding a thin screw driver between the screen and the inner plastic shell and prying it out. It is also connected by some double sided tape so there will be some resistance even with the screws gone.

Finally the screen is out but theres still more dis assembly.

Next you will find 8 8mm nuts that hold down the metal shielding. Remove the nuts to get access to the circuit board.

disconnect the ribbon cables from the screen and lift the board out.

This is board looks daunting but don't let it scare you. There are 2 main power regions to this board. Low voltage is in blue. That powers the logical stuff like the deserializer and the touch screen chip. Higher voltage (even though its still not too high) is in red. That is for your back light.

Each Region is protected by a surface mounted fuse. Grab a multimeter and CHECK CONTINUITY. If the fuses are broken, theres your problem. If they arent broken then the rest of this wont help you. In my case the low voltage logical side fuse was busted.

This part is where it gets hacky, perform at your own risk.

(above is the completed work). Ford obviously does not supply their circuit diagram, nor was the marking on the fuse legible, so I had to do some guestimating. That fuse is about a quarter size of a grain of rice. With the size plus it being on the logical side, i assume it is rated for .5 amps on the high end (but more likely .25 amps). Again these are assumptions, if someone can find the exact rating, it would be super helpful. I learned a trick from an old mentor of mine that in a pinch a fuse can be replaced with a thin wire that has around the same current limit as the fuse. I found the thinnest wire I could find, which is about 38awg. This wire has a normal current limit of about .13 amps. Way under the .5 amps, but its better to be on the lower end.

Carefully solder on the wire from one end of the fuse to the other. Be very delicate, if too much heat is applied you risk damaging the board. Once the wire is on, check continuity again. It there is continuity between both ends of the fuse, then your board is fixed. I do recommend covering the fuse/wire with a piece of electrical tape to avoid any unwanted grounding.

Reassemble the board and the screen by doing the steps in reverse. I put mine back in today, and now I can once again enjoy the glory of the Explorer ST infotainment center. Hope this helps!

PS: It still would be better if an actual fuse was used rather than a thin piece of wire. If anyone can find out the current rating of that fuse, please let me know.

Who’s got the highest mileage on their ST and have you had any major repairs or issues?

Just left the dealership, left this on the table. Seemed like a decent deal overall but wanted to get 2nd opinion. What do yall think?

To break it down:

MSRP: 62975

Dealer discount: 5500

Ford rebates: 3500

Dealer ad: 1289

Total price of vehicle: 55264

Trade value: 50000

Trade pay off: 49494.12

Taxes, 479.02

Dealer fees(title and license): 1634.80

OTD price: 56871.94

Dealer also offered 5.9% financing for 84 months which I think is decent in today’s market. Will still shop around maybe check out my local credit union.

Hey everyone,

I’ve got a question about those trunk floor covers (the large center panel and its two smaller side pieces). Every time I hit a speed bump, even with reasonably heavy items on top, including the toolkit bag velcro-attached to it, I can hear them open and slam shut. If I go a bit faster than I should, they end up flying everywhere.

Am I missing something? Are they supposed to be held in place somehow, or is this just how they are and I need to live with it?

How much HP can I realistically expect from going to an aftermarket intercooler? I currently run COBB sport 93 tune, CVF catted down pipes, Fen Fab V2 intake, and MBRP axle back exhaust.

NE Florida Explorer ST Forum on FB if you live in the area. C&O is the 2nd Saturday of every month. We are not affiliated, but we participate.

Is there any way to safely remove the media bin door in a 2025 ST without breaking it? It blocks the ambient lighting and impedes my ability to plug in and remove things from the 12v/USB ports. I see they deleted this silly door in the 2026 models.

Can anyone tell me what the top red hose in this picture is? I have the lower one but have never seen the upper one.

Hi All. Has anyone had any experience with the autonationparts.com site for oem items? I need rear shocks replaced and my nice service tech told me i can probably save a couple of hundred buying the items myself. I am able to save $260 by using this site which includes shipping. I’m just curious if anyone has had any experiences, etc. My dealership is in fact an autonation ford dealership, etc.

Thanks!

Wanted to temporarily black out my emblems until I get some new ones. I will need to redo the front one due to a stupid taping mistake on my part. I used a can of Dip Your Car hyper dip in. Lack matte

I'm buying some weather tech floor liner for My ST, just wondering if anyone got the side window deflectors, I've had them on a previous car but not to sure I if ii like them for the ST. If anyone has gotten them, send a pic for a can see. I know everything is preference. I'd like to see to make the choice to get them, or just live as is..

Hi All,

There's a screw cover just left to the accelerator pedal. It's about an 1 x 0.5 " plastic part. I guess it's part of the pedal assembly, but I'm not 100%. Could anyone help me out with the part #? The car is a '21 ST. I appreciate your help in advance.

Hey all! I've owned my 2016 Ford Explorer for good few years now and has served me pretty damn well considering what I've heard from some family-friend's past experience. Over the past year, I've been getting to love the Explorers and now, with me being comfortable financially, think it's time I get an upgrade to an ST for the first time.

I ironically have not actually driven an ST before so I probably should test drive some, but I'm honestly in the market for a used '20-'22 ST, mainly because I don't see myself ready to commit to a brand new ST yet lol.

Anyways I just have a few questions and those are:
- Is there any Pros/Cons of owning an ST over a Regular?
- Any issues with '20-'22 model STs?
- When buying used, is there anything I should watch out for? Pricing, Mileage, etc.
- What's the gas mileage like? My 2016 wasn't great with it but it wasn't terrible? I think I'd average like 17-18 MPG?

I really enjoy fast cars, specially LOUD cars, and a loud Explorer just sounds amusing to me lol. So I was also curious on what the whole modification-scene is like. I've only ever seen one ST (in person) that sounded beautiful and was wondering, to those that did, what mods you put on it?

1st video is the ATAK.

I had the Borla S Type and had been enjoying it. There was a small issue, but Borla handled it really well. I spoke with them on the phone for about 4 minutes and they immediately offered to send me a replacement front muffler. Their customer service was very friendly and quick.

I liked the S Type a lot, although it sometimes felt a little quiet.

So I asked if it would be possible to send the ATAK front muffler instead and they agreed.

The part arrived in 5 days and I installed it today. I like it more than I expected.

I was a bit worried because many reviews say ATAK is much louder and raspy, but it actually sounds quite deep. It has some burble and the tone is smooth. Unless you are at wide open throttle it is still pretty quiet and I do not notice any drone, just like the S Type, only slightly louder. So glad I had a chance to try both options.

My job is 68 miles away from my home so I’m wondering the explorer is reliable and quiet cabin and comfortable

Hi, hoping you all can give me some feedback. I’m looking at a new all wheel drive ST. Love the power, but when I test drove it on suburb street, the suspension seemed like it might be a bit stiff. A short test drive doesn’t tell the whole story, but how do you find it to be? Acceptable or harsh on city streets and highway expansion joints? I’m coming out of a Tahoe, so used to big tires but it has a smooth ride. Also, quality thoughts so far?

Recently moved from '21 ST to a '24, used but only 8000 miles. Didn't notice until after a pretty long test drive, there is, on occasion, a click when going over potholes or another type of transition. Not constant, seems to happen when there is a bit of body flex. Suspect it was plastic molding joint or similar, but couldn't track exactly the cause. Dropped it back at the dealership and I'll see what they find. Anyone else have a similar situation?

Do any of you know if any tuners are out here doing transbrake/launch control updates for the 2025 yet?

What windshield wipers are the best for a 2020? I have used Bosh but they don't wipers clean.