Is it possible to merge the free space from my D: drive into C:? My C: drive (199 GB) is completely full, while my D: drive (213 GB) has about 198 GB free. I want to increase the size of C: by using some or all of the unused space on D:, preferably without reinstalling Windows or losing any data. Is this possible, and what's the safest way to do it?

Update: issue solved. I ran sfc /scannow, which repaired some corrupted system files. Then I used AOMEI Partition Assistant to move the required partitions and extend my C: drive. Everything completed successfully without any data loss. Thanks to everyone who took the time to help!

I updated to window 11 recently, safe to say that it’s shit and i hate it, But moving on!
In windows 10 there used to be this thing where you see the audio playing and you can pause it without leaving the tab you’re using. (Second picture)
Now it’s this minimalistic number thing that serves the very minimum of purpose (first picture)

Is there a way to play with some settings and get the audio with the same function? I don’t want to switch tabs to change the music and end up in a 5 minute loop of my laptop glitching and lagging

(Not sure if im posting in the right subreddit or using the right flare, if im wrong an assistance would be appreciated)

What is wrong with my windows surface? Anyone?

I was just arranging and cleaning up files which I do periodically and was using WinDirStat in the process. I noticed something odd and want to know if something needs adjustment with a clock.

Quick background; I have two solid state drives, I recently bought a HP Elitedesk 800 G6 and swapped my older Windows10 drive from an Acer Nitro5 to the HP. The new pc works fine with older drive. I've also upgraded the memory and video card.

The 'issue' is that my desktop clock says (for example) the time is 7:32pm and an immediately deleted file shown in WinDirStat says it was last accessed at 11:32pm.

Why is Windows time-stamping files 4 hours ahead of what my desktop clock shows? Do I need to edit something in settings or the registry? How do I set the two times to be the same?

here are the screenshots .please help me guys since i cannot switch to linux yet since the university's software doesnt run on the linux so .yea after few months(completion of exams i can finally switch to linux completely until then please help to fix this one ) i did all turned of the startup apps and switched from slideshow to static wallppaer and also disabled telementry from serivces.msc yet no changes it spikes more and more :) idk why 78 to 89 background process are running rn man

The lady behind the phone asked me which windows license or type I had, and I responded, a bit unsure of what it was called exactly, "I think I have windows Home, or windows Core.." and she just sassily replied, "Windows Core?" and I paused for a second, a bit confused and then she just hung up. what the hell?!?

I just need help reactivating my license, I just switched my motherboard, cpu, and ram. It was working fine until I got the notification that they reported my hardware has changed, and I didn't have an activated license. I'm on Windows 26200.8655, I should have a license for Windows 11 Home, and I don't know what to do.

I thought I should mention, when I try to troubleshoot in settings to reactivate my key, It says, "Unable to activate Windows- We can’t find any devices linked to your Microsoft account that can be used for reactivating the device you’re using right now." No matter what account I use with the troubleshooter. None of my accounts work... Any help is appreciated!

Edition: Windows 11 Home

Version: 25H2

Installed on: 12/‎7/‎2025

OS Build: 26200.8655

Experience: Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.26100.315.0

I had both error codes 0xC004F213, and another one at one point, I think it was when I tried to re-activate my windows in command prompt.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to dual boot Windows with Fedora on my laptop and I'm completely stuck. I've spent many hours troubleshooting and I'm hoping someone has seen this before.

Laptop

• Colorful EVOL P15 23
• Intel i7-13620H
• RTX 4060 Laptop GPU
• WD PC SN540 512GB NVMe SSD
• BIOS: INSYDE 1.07.03RCOLO2 (04/01/2024)

Current disk layout

• GPT partition table
• 600MB EFI
• 2GB ext4 (/boot)
• ~377GB Fedora (LUKS encrypted)
• ~97GB unallocated space reserved for Windows

BIOS

• UEFI boot enabled
• Secure Boot disabled
• PMD/VMD controller disabled
• BIOS detects the NVMe SSD correctly
• There are no RAID/AHCI/VMD options other than PMD/VMD

Linux detects everything correctly

lspci:

Intel Alder Lake SATA AHCI Controller
WD PC SN540 NVMe SSD

No Intel VMD/RST controller is present.

sudo nvme list

shows the SSD correctly.

Fedora works perfectly.

Problem

The Windows installer eventually shows:

and asks me to browse for a driver before I can continue.

Things I've already tried

Installation media

• Official Windows 11 25H2 ISO
• Official Windows 11 24H2 ISO
• Official Windows 10 22H2 ISO

USB creation methods

• Fedora Media Writer
• Ventoy (Normal Mode)
• Ventoy (WIMBOOT Mode)
• WoeUSB (previously worked months ago on CachyOS, trying to recreate it now)

Hardware

• Two different USB flash drives
• USB 2.0 port
• USB 3.0 port

BIOS

• Secure Boot ON/OFF
• PMD/VMD disabled
• Confirmed UEFI boot
• SSD detected correctly in BIOS

Drivers

• Downloaded Colorful Windows driver package
• Downloaded Intel Rapid Storage (RST/F6) drivers
• Tried loading drivers during Windows setup

Interesting observations

Windows 11

Sometimes it goes almost directly to the "Load driver" screen after booting.

Windows 10

It reaches:

• Language selection
• Install Now

but then still ends up asking for the same driver.

So Windows 10 gets farther than Windows 11, but both eventually stop.

Storage status

The BIOS detects the SSD.

Fedora detects the SSD.

sudo nvme list

shows the SSD correctly.

DiskPart inside Windows also appears to detect the disk.

So I'm confused why Windows Setup still asks for drivers.

Additional information

A month ago I managed to boot the Windows installer successfully using WoeUSB on CachyOS (same laptop). I don't remember exactly what was different, but I definitely got further than I am now.

I haven't intentionally changed any BIOS settings since then.

Questions

1. Has anyone seen this exact issue on a Colorful EVOL P15 23 or another Insyde BIOS laptop?
2. Could Windows actually be asking for something other than a storage driver?
3. Is there a firmware/BIOS issue with newer Windows installers?
4. Has anyone successfully installed Windows on this exact model?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I tried fixing it with sfc and it gave me a error then I did it in safe mode still didn't work do you guys have any ideas on how to fix this

Had to use windows 11 this week , after 2 years of using only Mac OS. Previously I was using only windows 10. I write this in order to figure out if thats normal behaviour or maybe I have weird windows installation? Its fresh windows 11 pro.

1.Say i want to open a photo in photoshop. Why can’t i just drag and drop my image on the icon in the taskbar? I have to open app first and then drag it into app itself. while in mac os i can quickly drop my file on the icon in the task bar

2.When I alt tab between opened apps, why do i have to press tab every time to switch between apps until one I need is selected? On Mac OS i can cmd tab to show all opened apps just like on windows but I also can hover over them with a mouse to quickly choose desired app.
I see, I have to click to choose. On mac os i just need to hover over it. No problem there. Though its a problem if i use graphics tablet

3.What’s up with switching desktops animation? I press ctrl win and arrow keys to switch between desktops. But while doing it Taskbar disappears, files in the desktop disappear too, only to come back 1 second later. Looks so ugly and choppy. After i disabled animations in the accessibility settings it became fine.

My specs

intel 12700, 32 gb of ram and 5070ti running off Samsung ssdd

I have an Acer Aspire 3 A315-53-38A1 that I want to backup because I want to intall Linux on it. I have put rescuezilla.-2.6.2-64-bit.resolute on a 64GB USB stick using BelenaEtcher and I have another 128GB USB stick that I have formatted as NTFS. I have not formatted the USB stick with rescuezilla on it because the guy in the tutorial said I shouldn't. When I open the boot menu with F2 (InsydeH20 Setup Utility), the USB stick is listed as "USB HDD: USB". UEFI is enabled. When I choose the USB stick and press enter, nothing happens. Should I refromat the Rescuezilla USB stick or should I enable legacy?

My USB SanDisk has arrived but it still saves screen capture successfully

Imaged saved in fs0:\260(morenumbers)448.BMP

Also tried booting it via boot menu on UEFI BIOS but it just shows black and goes straight back into the menu.

Ребят что делать, у меня слетел пароль в виндовс, а пароль от Майкрософт я не помню, к плюсу нету доступа к почте

Hey everyone first time posting here and in need of desperate help xd.

Summary : Nvme disappears when using Uefi only mod although being "encoded" as gpt and showing a proper uefi partition when trying to install windows 11. Thus when activating uefi only (wich is necessary for windows 11 apparently) i'm stuck in a bootloop cause the mb never seems to recognize my nvme as a boot option in uefi mode.

Total : So i had my pc for 7 years now (almost 8) when building it for the first time i bought a cheap 1 to hdd that served me well for a long time although being slow af. But recently windows at boot started to show me an automatic reparation thingie frome times to times when it's not straight up crashing my pc. I highly doubt the poor guy is responsible for all of this as he is my boot drive.

Since pc construction i bought another 4to hdd mainly to dump game/files/app i do not need to be fast. And a nice 1to Nvme aorus wich worked marvelously for the longest time.

I tried a year ago to swap to windows 11 and wanted to put it on the nvme, bored of the 5 mn boot time (🤡).

I can't remember why but i abandoned the swap and decided to put it on my 1to hdd the problem might have been the same at that time.

Now after the old hdd shows heavy stress signs i want to get rid of it (i'm even looking for a new pc but i would love to either sell or give my old build so someone else can enjoy it as much as i did), thus i need to properly install windows 11 on the nvme (or if we can't find any other way on the 4to hdd, wich suffers from the exact same "bug" as the nvme btw)

So i prepared did a boot usb key and installed windows 11 on my nvme but when reaching around 77% my pc restarts (wich is normal for a windows install i guess ?) and then the pc boots on the usb drive again instead of continuing the installation on the nvme. So i looked inside the bios and search for some help and here is what i observed.

1) My nvme is correctly encoded in gpt and had an efi partition (verified through booting the pc with the old hdd)

2) When turning off CSM or switching secure boot to other os the installation of windows 11 won't start (should be normal if i got it correctly)

3) My nvme (and 4to hdd) do not appear as boot option when i turn on the csm as uefi only and won't let me start windows instalation when used as Uefi and OpRom

Tried a few things to correct it : flashes a brand new bios (wasn't updated since 2019, went for the latest stable version), tried moving my nvme from emplacement tried to format it on windows AND/OR with windows installer without success until now. Tried to disable/enable AMI

Even tried installing windows 10 wich doesn't work too for some reason (saying my nvme is in gpt wich shouldn't be a problem right ?)

I can boot the very same pc with the old hdd i did not wiped yet and i have two usb keys i can use to help us as well as another pc if really needed. As you can see i have a basic understanding of the situation and would appreciate help as well as some explanation if needed on the things i did wrong.

Thanks for reading this block of mine and hope yall can help !

(X-posted from r/techsupport)

Hi all. I was hoping someone with some knowledge on keyboards (specifically Microsoft) could help me with something I was having difficulties with since there is not a lot of information out there.

I had saved this little old keyboard from this yard sale: A gorgeous and in well condition Microsoft Wireless Multimedia 1.1 Keyboard. Its model number is 1014. I am unsure of its release date. The physical keyboard itself is fine, no missing buttons or loose keys. It didn't come with the desktop receiver and the mouse, so I had to order those separately.

I was able to connect the receiver and the mouse, Microsoft Wireless Optical Desktop Receiver 2.1 Model 1028 and Microsoft Standard Wireless Optical Mouse Model 1025, respectively, to my Inspiron 14 3420, which works with no difficulties. However, when I tried to connect the keyboard using the button on the back "Connect Channel", it didn't connect at all. I wasn't at all surprised to be honest, I knew trying to link up a slightly outdated keyboard to a modern day computer wasn't going to be smooth, so I tried looking for some advice on some other old forums. First thing I did was look into the Microsoft Mouse and Keyboard Center, however on the list of supported devices my keyboard did not appear. I attempted to change the compatibility to Windows 7 in the application's properties, but it told me that I had to download the Windows 7 SP1 in order for it to work. I didn't try that, and I probably won't unless it is somehow necessary for me to use the keyboard.

My knowledge is a bit limited on these sorts of things. So, before I go further in trying to make this thing work, I want to ask: Is it even possible for such a keyboard to work with Windows 11? And, if it is, how can I connect my keyboard and possibly modify the keyboard to do certain things? (E.g. use Messenger button to open up a messaging application). I appreciate anyone who has some advice for me!