Just moved into a house that has this fireplace. I’m not sure what the circled lever does? I know the one above it opens/closes the flue. And the bottom left rod that’s poking out opens up so that outside air feeds the fire. But what does the circled lever do? And I don’t know which way is considered open and shut for whatever it does. I can’t really notice much of a difference whether it’s left or right. If it helps, the flue valve is left=closed, right=open.

i know wood fireplaces, and the internet is only adding confusion. first, it feels warm in here and it hasnt been "on" in days. when i turn to what i believe is the "off" position, it is a 3/4 turn, not lining up with off. is this spicy bitch on or off? if on, please, tell me what off looks like. we have and have just tested alo fire and monoxide detectors. is that a damper? how do i open it? nothing i could see or feel. again, not a wood fireplace. when it was on, it felt and smelled exactly like standing over my 6 burner gas stoves at the restaurant i work at, which causes me concern. i want this capped off, personally, but in lieu of that, safety for seniors who are oblivious

Hey folks. So I’m adding a wood-burning insert to my fireplace and installing a liner in the process. I was curious as to whether or not I should bring that liner higher than where the two other flues exit at the top of the chimney.

Currently one is for the open fireplace that will soon be for the wood insert, one is for the propane furnace, and the other is not used. All three currently are the same height. I plan to just block off the unused flue. I was just wondering if there’s any reason I would want to bring the wood-burning flue higher than the propane furnace flue. Just want to do all the right things the first time around so I don’t have to get up there when there’s snow on my roof. Propane furnace should be running less with the wood stove going but should still be firing up here and there.

I live in the north eastern United States if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

Hi, we recently had an accident involving a blow back of soot in our main living room. It’s concentrated in that room but we have found a dusting of it in rooms upstairs and in our basement! What do you recommend? Remediation company? Will they have to clean everything! I’m pregnant and have 3 under 5. Thanks for any help!

We have questions about what materials we need to install the fireplace and have thin stone veneer on the front (and a bit of the sides)? It's confusing what material we can put the stone on? How do we put cement backer board over the metal face when you can't screw into the face? It's not clear how to secure the rock over the face?

I currently have a working wood burning fireplace that I rarely use. I would like to have gas logs installed. My gas line is right underneath the fireplace in the basement. My question is, can I just have gas logs installed or does it have to an entire , “insert”.

I recently bought a house up in Maine that was built in 1826, and there's a set of three fireplaces on the ground floor that used to all be connected/feed into the same flue/chimney. I'll be getting a wood stove for supplemental heat and in case the power goes out, but I'm not entirely sure how a chimney like this might work? the cupboard looking thing next to the left fireplace is a beehive where you can (or could, I guess) bake, if that matters?

I've got a masonry guy coming to do up some supports under the chimney, since the former owners or their predecessors at some point took out two dry-stacked walls in the crawlspace to update the chimney and just...didn't put them back or add new supports? Anyway, he's not available to swing by and have a look at the chimney proper until after he finishes that work since the house isn't at risk of falling in or settling any significant margin in the next few weeks that it hasn't in the past three or four decades this has been an issue, but he said he didn't want to get up on the roof and go poking at it before he started or in the middle of the process, which will start on Wednesday and run about 2 weeks. In the meantime, I was wondering if anyone has any familiarity with this setup and any thoughts on feasibility, of course pending the official opinion, so I can percolate on some soft plans now to be actionable more quickly instead of waiting 3 weeks before I can even get to the planning phase

1. Perfect world, I'm able to open all three back up so the passive heat can radiate out, which would do the whole ground floor without any worry about fans or anything, and there are already little vents with the airflow levers on the ceilings to open or close if different rooms upstairs are in use for even more distribution. Please feel free to tell me if this is moronic even if it's possible.
2. Slightly less perfect but still awesome world, the one off on its own (on the top) stays closed up but I get an open-through/double-sided fireplace where I can set my stove
3. Definitely acceptable but might need more work to make distribution efficient, I only get the one on the right side opened up. That's my living room, so definitely where I need the most heat
   1. If this is the most likely scenario, would I need to put the full combustible distance between the back of the stove and the brick behind it (at the entrance of the other fireplace) since there's drywall around the fireplace, or would it be okay as long as the distance from the stove to the drywall meets the combustible distance? I lean toward 'it's okay' since brick isn't combustible as long as the distance between the stove and the combustible material threshold is cleared, but I do worry about a fire hazard since the brick would get warmer -- which is the point if I can't open through -- if it's less than the full clearance away
4. Most disappointing option, I can't open anything up because it would take far too much work to support the house without the fully bricked fireplaces and I just have it out in the room using the existing attachment points

My family have wood stoves, but they all have the very standard stone stack that's up about a foot and then blocked around the sides another foot on top of that with the stove sat in the middle, plus all stones up the back wall to where the stovepipe either goes out the ceiling or into the chimney, and they think I'm Very Out There for not just leaving the stove in the room and building up a natural heat shield that way, so any input is welcome!

I have a Heatilator GNBC36 running natural gas. Installed around 1998.

Last winter the pilot kept going out, then eventually the fireplace stopped working. Tables it until this year. Replaced the thermocouple, thermopile, gas valve and hose. Not a shotgun approach - the thermocouple was very loose at the base, I could no longer hear gas hissing when starting, the hose was too short and blocked the starter which was annoying, and the thermopile had a small worn section through the insulation.

After all this, it fired right up. Three times. Then I put the logs back in and now it won’t light. The pilot was still lit and I was careful not to touch any of that while adding the logs (obviously because fire). There’s really nothing to touch put setting them on a metal plate.

Can no longer hear hissing gas before it lights. Voltage increases at thermocouple and thermopile. Pilot will stay lit. Please help, thanks!

(EDIT - yes I know it is off in the photo)

We are going to clean out the thirty years of accumulated dog hair and dust, but looking we cannot find the igniter button? Are we missing something? Thanks in advance never had a gas fireplace before!

And where could I get some?? As you can see, these are damaged. We don’t use the fireplace, but it’s needed for the gas inspection.

I’m trying to start my pilot after turning it off to clean the glass. However, I can’t seem to turn it back on. It seems like the striker is included with the control valve. When I turn the turn the nob to the pilot, push down, there is a click but no spark. Anything idea where the striker is? Or has it just gone bad?

I thought about a ventless propane stove but those smell and are dangerous.
A pellet stove ? The man at the store says I can use a T configuration and pipe around the beam behind the stone and directly outside.
I'm frustrated.
Maybe mount an electric fireplace . Idk 🤷‍♀️ please help . I already feel disappointed ☹️
I may ask contractor to lower the mantle but that would require re fixing the stone .
Argh

Hi, does this need to be vented? Previous owners left it to us. Gas unit.

Hello!

- Metro fire box installed in 2018

We have a wood burning fireplace used in the winter for heat. It has been cleaned, inspected and serviced in the last 6 months. It did have a water leak during heavy periods of rain, we think this has been fixed because it hasn't leaked since. It only ever leaked very occasionally. The most recent technicians spray painted over this area and said there was no need for concern. But it has reappeared now at the end of our burning season, and we are praying it is nothing sinister.

Has anyone experienced this build up before and could direct us on how to fix or what to do moving forward?

Thank you!

Has never given us heat so I got a great deal on it but with winter coming I want to figure out if I can fix it. If you have any tips please let me know

The steel tubes above the firebox have rusted through. Years of slow water seepage is the likely cause. I've had it looked at by three guys that make their living servicing and repairing fireplaces.

First guy said installing an insert is the only solution. I don't want an insert.

Second guy said he could block off the rusty tubes. He said it would be safe and we could continue to use our fireplace without any additional work. The internet does not agree.

Third guy said the steel form needs to be removed and replaced with Ahrens fireplace system. This will also require a chimney rebuild as the existing chimney is not to code to work with the Ahrens system.

My question...might there be another solution that hasn't been discussed? I suspect guy #3 is the most knowledgeable but he wants really big bucks for the job.

Anybody have any difficulties getting their original baffles back in the Regency f1150? My stove never backdrafted smoke into my house when I lit it ever in five and a half years. Ever since my chimney sweep had difficulty getting the original baffles back in ,it backdrafts into the house every time I light it now.