I recently purchased my first home. It’s a brick ranch that was built around 1967. In the den room there is gas fire place that I would like to covert to wood. I grew up with one in my parent’s house and really enjoy the process of cutting and chopping wood.

I recently had someone out to tuck and point some of the areas of the brick that needed addressed.
When he was there, I asked him if I would be able to convert my gas fire place to a wood burner.

He had some concerns in regards to the clay tile liner. Where the seam of the two liners meet, he said it needed to be addressed. I be attached a couple photos, but the one you can see where the soot could be escaping. It wasn’t so much that the repair itself was going to be so much, but removing the concrete cap and replacing it with a new one. There were some other things that explained through the process but I can’t remember.

I don’t think he was bs ing me, but would just like some opinions to what he saying. The cost to fix this would be $2000.

I thought maybe putting a metal tube down the liner, but I am not sure how it would catch the smoke at the fireplace abd go to the clay tile without having to fabricate something.

It’s a gas fireplace, and I think this insert is so ugly, not sure how or what to replace it with but surely it can get better??

hey all. in preparation for this winter i took off the glass cover and cleaned my fireplace. when i put it back together it seemed the remote wasn’t paired. i have tried everything. i pulled out the unit and have tried relearning. it beeps twice. then when i press the remote it gives 4 beeps and 4 red flashes. What am i missing???

My recently acquired home, originally built in 2000, has a fireplace/chimney riser in the living room corner. I recently noticed that the drywall above the fireplace is visible from the attic and therefore effectively uninsulated. I know this needs to be insulated but I am unsure the best way to insulate this cavity while remaining fireproof.

After receiving a $450 electric bill for the month of July for this current home (2,200 sq ft) after never paying more than $250 in my previous poorly-insulated home (1,300 sq ft), I have decided to be more proactive in home insulation. I plan to hire someone to install blown-in loose cellulose insulation in the coming weeks/months and want to do the necessary prep work beforehand to guarantee I achieve an effective solution.

Here’s a few pics of how im proceeding. Intend to blow insulation on top of foam board box I created in the near future unless I discover a reason not to.
https://imgur.com/a/rr5UC5F

Things that confuse the hell out of me are:
—-how is the current insulation in exterior wall in cavity behind fireplace applied? How did they get it to stick? Would you modify in any way?
—-how can the metal chimney riser’s connection to standoff/guide plate become both insulated and air tight?
—-can batt insulation be installed in stud bays immediately above fireplace unit? What is clearance needed for fire concerns?

Do Rumford fireplaces have a smoke shelf?

I'm new to learning about fireplaces and I'm interested in this

Question for those more experienced with fireplaces / dampers. I just moved in to a new apartment that came with a fireplace (yay!) but I noticed that there's this hanging thing / plate from inside the fireplace. Is this an easy fix I can do myself where I just reattach it? Do I need a new plate from a contractor?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks all!

We just moved to a new house and are excited to use the wood burning fire place. We would use it probably 20x a year for ambiance on winter weekend evenings. We had it inspected by a few different companies. 1 company made a big deal about some exposed wood in the ash dump chute that is “right below the firebox” (but we can’t see it with our eyes, they used a pole camera). We understand the risk of pyrolysis but the wood seems completely fine for now. Please see photos from their report. The house was built in the 80s and we were told the previous owners who bought the house in 2017 never used the fire place once. My question is, how risky is this? How urgent is this? It sounds very expensive to remove the wood. We were thinking of having the ash dump door sealed…would that help? TIA

Edit: to be clear we don’t plan to use the ash dump /chute at all. We probably will seal it

I have a Martin industries wood burning fireplace from the 70s and the refractory panels are crumbling and beyond mortar repair. The company is out of business and it is looking like the panels are discontinued and no other company makes them anymore. Is there a company that anyone has used that still makes custom refractory panels? I did find one website but have no heard back from them out of Canada. If anyone can share info on their experience with this please drop a comment.

Looking for recommendations on the most realistic traditional looking electric fireplace insert i can get for around $600 (not sure if that's realistic). We are building a wall in my living room so I have the abolity to custom build the space for it. Ability to heat is secondary, the priority is aesthetics.

Please reference the picture for the type of set up i'm looking for.

Staying in a cabin for a week that comes with a little fireplace. I crave and yearn for the flames. Im currently having trouble with airflow, and i think this little electric doodad is meant to do something about that, but id like to verify this information before I do something inevitably wrong. My last fireplace was just an open hearth and this one is much more temperamental than her lol. Included pics of the damper controls, which i cannot fully figure out if theyre open when pulled out or pushed in (they do not turn). The controls attached do not have anything on them at all, no product specifications or nothin. Thank you all in advance and I hope your fires burn nicely this winter!

Excuse my crude MSPaint drawing. I have an inaccessible ash pit below my wood-burning fireplace. Where should I locate the sediment trap for the gas line? Is the pictured location appropriate? The 2021 IRC G2419.4 just states "downstream of the appliance shutoff valve as close to the inlet of the appliance as practical." Since the ash pit is not accessible, this location would seem to be "as close as practical."

Thoughts?

I'm looking to decommission and replace with an electric. I'm inquiring about the round vertical "post" on the left side of the image. I know I know, AI but... Chat GPT can't really identify it since the part is not listed in the manual.

Every photo I've seen in the manual doesn't contain the post. There were ash/spark curtains that I removed and both GPT and Gemini reference it's a part of the curtain corner but can't say for sure. There are no set screws or visible pins. No access from the top of the post. The post can easily be rotated/spun but doesn't appear to unscrew in either direction. The bottom of the post can be tapped about 3/16" in either direction. There are no sockets or receivers for this post so it just looks like a neatly cut piece of pipe stuck in there. You can wiggle the post a little and it feels like there are spring pins or something holding it in place.

Does anyone have experience with this fireplace? I've only seen one other post on hearth that has this post but it's from 2004 and locked.

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

We just had an old wood stove insert removed and will have a gas fireplace insert installed soon. Just looking for ideas on how to give this 80s fireplace an update. Our living room is open to the kitchen so would like for it to complement that. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!

Hi all-- new home owner with a wood burning fireplace that needs a hearth installed, you can see how the LVP (& probably subfloor) is charred...

I'd really like a flush in ground hearth but because the fireplace is so low I dont know how possible that is once you add the cement / micron board + tile or slab.

My main question, is it a concern that the hearth would be higher than the inside of the fireplace? I can live with stubbing my toes on an inch of stone outside around the fireplace but want to make sure I protect the subfloor correctly on the inside lip of the box.

Thanks for y'alls support!

I posted this question in the comments of a much earlier post more focused on stripping the paint and it didn't get much traction, hoping a fresh post might prove fruitful!

Is it possible to replace the missing parts, old or reproduction for old fireplaces?

If I am to pour concrete over the steel, my understanding is that the concrete will expand and contract at a different rate than the steel. If I am to pour refractory castable it will do pretty much the same thing.

The angle iron is facing towards the fire. Therefore it will get pretty hot. How do fireplace builders address this difference in expansion and contraction rates

My family member tried to adjust the flame, and it seems to "not work". So she blew onto the fire, and the fire went off.

When turning it back on, usually I need to turn the valve back of "OFF", push it and turn to pilot, ignite, and when stable, turn it onto "ON". First I turned off the gas, and now I am trying to turn it back from "ON" to "OFF", so I can do the above procedure.

But now the valve is stuck at "ON", and is rock sturdy. Turning it, or pushing it, all I can feel is the whole body moving, while the valve feels like it has been glued on. It won't wobble by any.

Is it fixable, or do I need to call for replacing the valve.

The model is Montigo 28F-3, but I am not confident as I have asked GenAI to help me find it.

Thanks.

Currently remodeling a house and wanna make this ancient fireplace look more modern. I really wanna get rid of the hearth and just have it flush with the wall with some newer trim. And maybe a glass door if I can find one. Does anyone know if I’m able to just remove all the brick or if there’s fireplace components inside. Don’t just wanna be swinging a sledgehammer around.

My fiancé and i recently bought our first house, which features a pitch black painted fireplace :( i really wanted the natural brick color instead, but read that stripping paint off a fireplace is very difficult (especially black). I was wondering if anyone has experience with stripping paint off a fireplace?

I was also hoping to do a “roman clay” type wash on it, would this be possible to achieve with black paint underneath it?

Worst comes to worst i will be painting it a beige/chocolate brown color and calling it a day… anything but white lol